Quarantine Cappadocia through the eyes of Ukrainian tourists. Part 9

11 July 2021 Travel time: with 20 May 2021 on 27 May 2021
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Start here: Part 1 < , Частина 2 , Части 3 < / em> , Частана 4 , Part 5 , Part 6 , Part 7 , Part 8 < / em> .

The technical part with maps, links and summary of all series is located here .

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Our next stop is I hlara. It is a stone canyon of volcanic origin, dividing the plain into two "shores". Its length is 14 kilometers, the depth in some places reaches 150 meters. At the bottom of the canyon flows the river Melendiz.

Byzantine monks, who left behind more than 100 churches (two dozen of them are open for visiting), preferred to live in these territories.

One source mentions that the canyon's population in those ancient times reached 60.000.

The valley stretches from the village of Ihlara to Selime. Between them, at the bottom of the canyon, is the village of Belisirma. Entrance to the valley is paid (I do not know the price, because it is included in the tour price).


All organized groups are brought to the second section of the Ihlara Gorge, which is maximally equipped and tidy. So let's go down and look around.

To the right of the stairs is Ag a ç alti Kilisesi . The main entrance to the church was once underground (now inaccessible). The current passage goes through the apse of the temple, which is considered the 2nd floor. The frescoes depict the scene of the prophet Daniel being thrown into the left lair (which is why the church has a second name in his honor).

And from the left side of the temple is a painting dedicated to the visit of the three wise kings. For some reason, they hold tambourines in their hands, not gifts, and their clothes will go beyond iconographic criteria.

Unfortunately, this was the first and last church we visited in the Ichlar Valley. Although, even along the route of our movement, there were dozens of them. Well, the group tour has both its advantages and disadvantages.

Let's walk. Everything around has a mesmerizing juicy green color. The Melendiz River murmurs nearby, carrying its waters to the salt lake Ace. The birds are singing. What a contrast to the underground city we got out of just a few minutes ago!

And if you shake your head and look closely, you can literally see the remains of old rock settlements.

The first stop. I remember my tourist past with group bus tours, where hours of rest were usually not provided, and the pace of excursions resembled the lively gallop of crazy cognac)) Here everything is in no hurry, calm and measured. I wonder if this is the prerogative of a Turkish holiday or an English-speaking group?

Rest here is possible both on land and on water:


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Whose will you be, ladies and gentlemen? ))

Attentive listener:

In Bushra, all the birds on the trail are fed and trained:

Let's move on:

An interesting tree with green and red leaves. Google recognizes it (though not very sure) as Prunus serotina, or black cherry.

Finishing. So slowly and measuredly we passed our section 3.75 km long.

For the planned lunch, which is included in the price of the tour (only drinks are paid separately), we are arranged under the close supervision of local cats))

In the range of soup and main course to choose from (meat or fish).

There is an interesting conversation at the table (well, as a conversation, I mostly blink, because it's a polyglot! ). Bushra is interested in the American with the Venezuelan, as in general Turkey is perceived from another continent. To which he receives an emotional speech about the need to stop presenting his country as poor and unhappy. It is necessary to show what to impress or touch others. For example, they were able to enchant the world with the story of Suleiman's great love.

With these words, the whole group simultaneously turns to me. Oooo, his wife was Ukrainian! I nod vigorously.

Yes, yes, our Roxolana! ))

Well, of course, I met various associations with Ukraine. But yes, through the prism of Suleiman's love for Roxolana ...What interesting twists our perception of the world around us has!

Let's move on.

Selime Monastery or Selime Monastery. Admission is paid, but I will not tell you the price, because it is included in the tour price.

The true history of this construction is still unknown. Approximately, the building, which dates back to the 8th century, existed for its intended purpose until the 11th century. It was then used as a caravanserai - a refuge for travelers and traders traveling on the Silk Road. Unfortunately, it was left abandoned after the 16th century.


Local historians deny the widespread belief in the region that the monastery was a center of religious education and held the first Christian Mass in Cappadocia. Researchers are inclined to believe that a respectable and wealthy family of Byzantine Christians lived here, using Selime as their personal residence.

Landscapes:

Across the street from the monastery is Ali Pasa tü rbesi or Ali Pasha's Mausoleum . Here is buried the whole homeland of Ali Pasha - the head of Aksaray, killed by the Mongols. The tomb was built in the 13th century in the style typical of the Anatolian Seljuks.

The high corridor is part of the caravan route.

It was through him that camels were escorted to Selime's courtyard.

Ancient cuisine and locals))

The kitchen has a pyramid shape and a large chimney in the center of the ceiling. The notches in the floor are tandoor pits (ovens) on which food was prepared. A symmetrical row of niches is ancient shelves and racks.

Views from the "windows" of the kitchen:

Go to the large room marked "Monastery". Although modern historians are inclined to a more secular purpose of this building, which has a two-tier design. In the alcoves, apparently, there were benches for sitting and sleeping.

A few sketches and locals))

After descending from the monastery we were invited to a tasting at the "Wine House". The Turks did not drink, the American asked the winemakers vividly about the peculiarities of local production, and only the Spaniards and I quickly skimped on three))

Let's move on. Remember the Dove Valley?

Yes, we arrived at the same observation deck with panoramic views of Uchisar and the surrounding area.

It's time to look at the gift shop:

Back to Gorema. All, our tour is over. The hotel is pleased with the news that tomorrow morning there will be another attempt to shove us into balloons and take off. By the way, Bushra, who has African roots, promised to use all possible magical rituals and foretell us good weather tomorrow. Well, we hope for those))

Translated automatically from Ukrainian. View original
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Долина Ihlara
Ağaçaltı Kilisesi. Класичний сюжет візиту трьох мудрих царів. Але чомусь вони тримають у руках бубни, а не подарунки, до того ж їхній одяг виходить за межі іконографічних критеріїв.
Долина Ihlara
Долина Ihlara
Долина Ihlara
Долина Ihlara
Долина Ihlara
Долина Ihlara
Місцеві зустрічають гостей :))
Уважний слухач
Дресованих гусей я ще не бачила ))
Долина Ihlara
Долина Ihlara
Prunus serotina або чорна вишня (але це не точно)
Плановий обід
Скельний монастир Селіме
Скельний монастир Селіме
Скельний монастир Селіме
Місцеві відпочивають ))
Скельний монастир Селіме
Скельний монастир Селіме
Скельний монастир Селіме
Майже знищені фрески собору
Скельний монастир Селіме
Скельний монастир Селіме
Місцеві мешканці
Дегустаційний зал винного дому
Оглядовий майданчик над Голубиною долиною
Оглядовий майданчик над Голубиною долиною
Місцева крамничка
Місцева крамничка
За чудові дні! І ті, що минули, і ті, що попереду :))
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