Calm Truskavets mayovka in the turbulent 2014
Traditionally, I opened the holiday season in the Crimea. After the "relatively honest seizure" of this territory, our restless neighbors did not want to go "abroad", and the director spoke so deliciously about Truskavets that I risked updating the route.
I love Lviv very much and I can wander its streets endlessly, but disturbed by the nightly news reports from the fighting, my soul longed for peace, tranquility and nature. As it turned out - quiet, green, slow Truskavets - that's it!
Let's start first. Ukrainian Railway, Kherson-Lviv train. The sign on the car - "Night Fast". The night of the railways is long ...18 hours in an ancient compartment car without air conditioning will give travelers and African suffocation during the day and wet cold at night. As a conditioner - a plastic bottle installed by one of the passengers in the only unobstructed window in the corridor of the car.
Everything creaks and falls off - from light bulbs to locks.
Cleaning was carried out in the last century. But our people are unpretentious - not on foot, and good.
Lviv is greeted by its branded advertisements such as "coffee shop under the flag" and "company restaurant" and is very reminiscent of Odessa with its unique language, unusual jokes and delicious flavors. Transportation of visitors is arranged competently - the bus station to the left of the station, you do not need to stomp far with suitcases. You can take the train, but it's an extra hour on the road. The bus is full of holidaymakers and locals, on the road for about forty hours. A sign of the times - checkpoints, very shaky. The drivers were pleasantly surprised - no chanson, only local radio channels and Ukrainian performers. The road is incredibly picturesque - bright yellow rapeseed fields, all shades of green in the grass and trees, clean estates.
Locals compete with each other for the title of the best landscape designer of the village - there are very creative front gardens! : ))
From the bus station in Truskavets (it is located at the entrance to the city) by local buses you can get to any point of the resort, plus a lot of taxis. Truskavets is a small town, conveniently arranged - you can walk in a circle.
Here the medical orientation of the resort is acutely felt - the abyss of sanatoriums, medical centers, medical offices, laboratories. Travel agencies adjust the schedules of excursions according to the order of procedures in sanatoriums.
And everything revolves around the pump room! The name of this building should be written in capital letters only - this is the main building of Truskavets. "Water" - here about local waters speak only with such gentle intonation! Naftusya, Maria, Sofia, Yuzya are local nurses.
Owners and employees of sanatoriums, hotels, mini-boarding houses, apartments, cafes, restaurants, travel agencies, shops, souvenir counters - all the inhabitants of this city live on local mineral waters. The choice of special ashtrays is huge.
Competently built internal network marketing - in nine days I heard five times from the locals a terrible story about a visitor who "decided to drink water without the advice of a local doctor, overdosed and almost died. " In all five versions, the unfortunate man was rescued in time - it is not customary to talk about death at the resort ...
I did not go to the doctor, I bought a mug, but drank "water" very irresponsibly and irregularly. But many people have been coming to Truskavets for the sake of Naftus for decades - probably not just like that. I really liked the guide's wish to come to Truskavets for a vacation, not for treatment.
A little more about "water".
It's free - and it's great!
No one is trying to raise money to "repair the Failure. " In the free huge park, soft glycerin rejuvenating water "Yuzya" flows for free - girls and grandparents wash!
In Truskavets, there is no undisguised resort indifference, when a visitor is annoyed by a living wallet. A place in a mini-hotel - from 80-90 hryvnia (at the current rate it is not even 10 dollars). We had a room of about 40 square meters. m. with all amenities, modern renovation, quality furniture, balcony and views of the well-kept yard with a fountain and swings. Nearby - about the same class hotel. To the pump room - ten minutes of slow resort walk.
We were pleasantly surprised by the cafe. Very high quality and extremely inexpensive. Regarding "cheap" - there are suggestions for "complex lunches": breakfast, lunch and dinner for ...70 hryvnias, 65 hryvnias, 50 hryvnias (demining! ). We preferred to eat "not comprehensive".
The average check in a decent cafe for lunch - from 40 hryvnia, with one serving can feed two. Good, very hearty Ukrainian cuisine with borscht and draniki. Local "dranik" with different fillings weighs 450 grams - one can not eat! And the mushroom soup smells like forest ...
Well organized tours. Local travel agencies have drawn up a single schedule of excursions and are shared by tourists. It is possible to go to Lviv, Uzhhorod, Mukachevo, Berehove, Skhidnytsia. We rode on the "Carpathian tram" (perhaps I will write a separate essay) and on the chairlift in Transcarpathia. It is very convenient for travelers without a car - a well-thought-out route, competent guides, confident drivers.
We went to Lviv on our own - to walk through the Old Town, visit the "copy of coffee" and the chocolate museum, admire the stained glass windows in the cathedrals, and of course, taste coffee in the most creative cafes in Ukraine.
Well done to the people of Lviv - they have perfectly adapted the city center for tourists, you feel quite comfortable there. And no matter what language you speak, you will be understood in both Russian and Surzhik. And from politics - only magnets on the topical issue of difficult Ukrainian-Russian relations. But there are still more "Lviv marzipans" ...But Lviv is a big, bustling city with a roar of trams and a unique parking lot in the center of the road. So in the evening - back to Truskavets!
In Truskavets, Soviet-era sanatorium concrete gray monsters Crystal, Amber, and Spring have survived. They do not decorate the landscape. Modern hotel complexes such as Rixos, Geneva, Myrotel and Beskids look better. But I love the colorful mini-hotels in the center - with cozy courtyards and friendly hosts.
Truskavets is a very quiet resort. There is no intrusive music in the cafe, incredible silence in the park, in the center (along with the park - half the city!
) - pedestrian zone.
We arrived after the tour at 24 o'clock at night - there was a hospital silence in the city!
Truskavets is a resort for leisurely walks. You can endlessly walk, walk, walk. . Circle the serpentine city. Feed the squirrel in the park. Have a mini picnic on the stone tables there. Consider carved wooden balconies and verandas of early twentieth century houses. Take photos of original projects of modern hotels and restaurants. Go through simple local souvenirs. Sunbathe in the hot Carpathian sun. In general - to have a rest. . .
