Welcome or strangers B-3

22 September 2016 Travel time: with 10 September 2016 on 16 September 2016
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The pink wine drunk in the evening painted the world around in a similar color.

The evening was amazing.

The night is quiet, no breeze, no wave splash, no songs, no dances. But the friend, who was sleeping on the street in a downy sleeping bag, then complained that the moon was shining right in his eye : (((

The day before, I saw how a neighbor, who took his eldest little 5-year-old (younger 2), went to meet the dawn on a hillock of a neighboring bay. Wow! And we are fools, how many years we have been standing here, but we have never thought of this before! The sun comes to our beach quite late, because it is blocked by a rock. In August, this is very good - the heat will begin later, and now, in September, we were waiting for it to come.

Today, I also decided to go to the other side. The morning was so quiet and magnificent that I literally suffocated with happiness! I am here again! How good!


Dawn was pretty good too! And the panorama was almost one in one of the last Egyptian hotel. Cape Meganom outlines strongly looks like the island of Tiran (well, if you demolish Cape Alchak : )))))

Today we had to conquer Mount Perchem, higher than the Falcon, but not so rocky and steep, located further from the sea. And since the way there ran, again, through the source, we plunged into the font for the third time. God loves the Trinity!

The two of us managed to climb Perch twice. For the first time, not finding a path, they literally crawled through the thickets. The second time we managed to find a more or less normal climb. And in the third, when the three of us were with a current friend, we generally missed the mark and went in the wrong place at all. The mountain didn't let us in : (((

It has several peaks, on one of them we found stones laid out in a spiral, called, according to the tablet, the “Temple of the Spirit”. But we have never been able to find the ruins of either a temple or a monastery, which are listed as a local landmark. They are also on the list of Turpravdin's.

This time we found a completely new path, which we had not noticed before, and along it it was quite easy (relative to previous times, of course), but, all the same, with our tongues hanging out, we climbed the first pimple. The top of the Falcon remained below our level.

A group of boys and girls on quadricycles, who at that time were at the top, looked with square eyes at the half-naked people (us, that is, us) that appeared from the abyss. They came from a completely different direction on the road from Sudak and now rested from the accomplished feat. And our bully friend clung to them: “Are you weak on the Falcon? ”. The leader of the quadricycles said that a guy from their club climbed the Sokol on a mountain bike. At this point, our eyes widened. How? How did he get down? Well, as I could, I went down. We didn't get the details. Which up, apparently. : )))


I did not fail to ask the guy, where are the ruins? He pointed his finger at the slope of the neighboring peak, and we really saw something there among the trees. But to see, we saw, but how to get to it and not miss it? The guy, alas, did not know. They are not used to walking.

Having put on helmets and wearing funny disposable caps under them, the youth rolled back, raising clouds of dust behind them. And we sipped on our own two feet further, in the direction indicated by the guide. After walking for some time along the road, I saw an arrow laid out of stones and a barely noticeable path going off to the side. I turned there, the men began to object that it was better to go along the already known road. But I insisted on my own, arguing that that road did not lead us to the ruins. We walked for quite a long time, the men kept muttering that we had already missed everything and now we would go back to the Falcon altogether. But unexpectedly, we, nevertheless, went out to the ruins, and the boys shut up. In my heart I triumphed, but I didn’t show it so that their male ego would not suffer : )))))

There is nothing special to see there - the ancient foundation is only there, from above they tried to re-erect walls from improvised stone, of which there are a great many. There are several paper icons inside. That, in fact, is all.

But the place itself must be something special, by definition, and it would be nice to spend some time there. But our friend is absolutely alien to religion and any other esotericism, so we did not linger. However, the checkbox is checked, the ruins are found; )))))).

We descended through clearings, no worse than the Novy Svet juniper grove, and maybe even better. They are just far from the sea. But there is no one.

On the approach to Sudak, the landscape changes - rather lush vegetation is replaced by gray scree, left over from the eruption of the Kara-Dag volcano in ancient times. So they are not yet completely overgrown with plants.


Before entering the city, we take a more decent look. For this purpose, I put on a swimsuit a translucent beach dress. It’s hard to call it decent, but it’s fine for Sudak - many people walk like that here. And before, I wouldn’t bother with this either - a swimsuit would be enough. But the contingent has changed, and so has the way of dressing.

Let's go to our favorite pub on the embankment, having previously bought smoked sea bass. It is a favorite for two reasons: firstly, it is a balcony above the beach and overlooking the fortress, and secondly, beer is poured into glass glasses there, not disposable ones. I do not consider myself an aesthete, but I prefer to drink beer from glass. The price there is somewhat higher than elsewhere, but in this case it does not bother me.

But here's an ambush - they no longer serve in glass! AAAA! My first reaction is, let's go! Plastic can be cheaper to drink. But the nasty spenders insisted, and we stayed. We didn't come here for a drink. These are not our doses! I had to limit myself to two. The fish ran out anyway. Along the cypress alley we went to have lunch at the cheapest cafe in Sudak, Vostok. Prices are lower than in the USSR. Borsch here costs 40, stuffed peppers (2 pcs) - 75.

Having refreshed ourselves, we went shopping for dinner. I already wrote that all the old bottling companies have either been re-profiled or just sell bottled wine. But on the cypress alley there are a couple of points selling in bottling. We went to inquire. Black colonel at 30 rubles per hundred square meters. Whose, I ask? Bakhchisaray? Ah, got it! Drink yourself. And what is this champagne at 75 rubles for 0.5? Semi-sweet, like cider. ??????!!!! ! Horror. We're leaving.

A friend wanted to buy a watermelon. In came up! 40 r per kilo? It's 16 hryvnia! At home, it costs a maximum of 2 UAH / kg. But figs for 200 r are a completely different matter, I don’t feel sorry for it at all! They don’t sell it at home, but your own won’t grow in any way. However, upon arrival, I found in one supermarket for..... 175 UAH! So 200 r is a freebie!


But the fish on the cypress alley is surprisingly cheaper than in the central market of Sudak, and even more so than in the New World. The flounder that we bought at 600 here cost 450. But we already ate it, so we bought a kilo of boiled-frozen rapana for 350 rubles. We returned to our beach. While the men were roasting the rapans, I, as a messenger, rushed to the National Assembly to bring a cold beer.

At night, I was awakened by a mosquito that had come from nowhere, which had never been here. We did not fasten the anti-mosquito cover - before that there was no special need for it. And so I, for some reason, wanted to go home! I began to analyze the reason for such a sharp change in mood. After all, in the morning I was so high! Having thought of nothing, hiding from the mosquito with her head, she dozed off.

Urom was somehow fresh. I climbed to swim - the water is warmer than the air. Getting out is not very comfortable. I had to put on a tracksuit. She pestered the peasants to leave not on Saturday, but the day before, i. e. already tomorrow, Friday. They didn't want to, especially a friend. And I said that my fantasy had already dried up, where else would I go to stagger. Today we have Karaul-Oba, Tsarsky Beach and the Golitsyn trail. And what tomorrow - invent yourself. And they don't have much imagination. We decided that we would think about it until the evening.

We sat and had breakfast. And then I saw HIM! HARE! Came to the spring to drink some water. I began to sneak up on him with a camera, but it turned out to be problematic to do this on the rustling pebbles. We managed to take a shot, but from a distance.

After waiting for the sun and finally pulling off warm clothes, we went upstairs, frightening a flock of partridges along the way, which had never been seen here before either. They told Mikhalych about the hare and the birds. The hare did not impress him, but he did not see partridges either. He said that he was going to Koktebel tomorrow and what time he would return - he did not know. Oops! But what about things? This settled our dispute. Home tomorrow!


We went to Karaul-Oba bypassing the ticket office along a secret path. However, it is no longer a secret. The gorge leading to the Royal Beach has generally turned into Broadway. Cars drive almost into the juniper grove itself. If it weren't for the ditch dug specially for such smart people, they would have called in at Cape Kapchik. Khan of the reserve! Last year, the forester guarded here too, which we were not happy about - we had to give blood rubles. But now we no longer knew whether to rejoice in his absence.

We climbed the Karaul-Oba, visited all the memorable places - Adam's bed, Golitsyn's bench, hell, the labyrinth of Taurus.

We walked a little in the direction of Vesely, but did not go out into it - the forester is definitely standing there.

We went down to the Royal Beach. Yeah! City branch!

They did not linger in this crowd, but went to the Loyalty Path. This is part of the Golitsyn trail leading from the Tsarskoye beach to a through grotto. They called it that because unfaithful wives, whose consciences are not clear, will not be able to go through it, they will fall down. Previously, we often went with it - it was quite passable. Even our unsportsmanlike friend overcame it. True, the last meter and a half in front of the grotto is a completely smooth sheer cliff. But with the help of our climbers, we also climbed them. One day we were walking in a big group. On the way we overtook a young couple who stopped for a photo shoot. We approach the grotto and see an oil painting - squatting, clutching a stranglehold on a rock, sits an "unfaithful wife" and with a hysterical sob yells to her husband standing next to him: "Why did you come here for me? " brought here? " A young couple also arrived. I see that the girl, who had been walking along the path quite briskly before, literally, had her lower jaw shaking. Before that, I thought it was an invention of the writers. And I went with the young son of friends. Our men have already crossed the last frontier. Having somehow bypassed the stuck ones, I handed the kid over and, taking off my shoes for better grip on the rock, threw my slippers over to them and climbed over myself. The girlfriend was transported in a slightly different way. Whether those two couples came back, I don't know. We did not watch the concert.


But that was a long time ago. Over time, part of the trail collapsed and almost no one walked along it. Almost. We're going. Now it was necessary to go down to the water in the place where it collapsed, and then climb back.

I almost lost my temper that time. Flying there, however, is not high, 3-4 meters, but it’s real to cripple. In short, I said that this was the last time. I was even suspected of all serious. So this year I decided: “I will prove it! ” ; )))))))))

And she proved it! “I am faithful to you, alas! And you, and you, and you! ” : ))))))). This year I succeeded. I passed without loss. Several people on the other side of the trail, equipped with concrete barriers, began to discuss excitedly whether they should go back to where we came from. We did not dissuade them or encourage them. It's their life, they decide.

We climbed over the parapet and went down the rocks to the water to swim alone. True, the boats scurrying back and forth took their toll.

Golitsyn trail, Chaliapin grotto, exit to the village. Tickets were not checked at the entrance and exit (thank God! ). Well, since we're leaving tomorrow, we'll party today! We bought one bottle of shampoo and drank it on a bench on the embankment. Then there was another, and another. The fourth was taken with them to the beach. It’s dangerous to go down the goat trail drunk with backpacks.

It was quite fresh in the morning, but we still had a last swim, and the water was quite warm compared to the air. But today, putting on a backpack, I did not take off my jacket. We said goodbye to Mikhalych, leaving him the last canned food (the only one not expired), half a flask of moonshine infused with tea rose petals and a couple of kilograms of potatoes left to us by neighbors who left the day before.


From Sudak we went by flight at 8.15. At 10.15 they were supposed to be in Simferopol. Our bus to Mariupol left at 11, and we still had time to have breakfast and buy figs at the market for home. But it was not there. The road was repaired. Seriously renovated. I have never seen such a vehicle. The previous road surface was removed to a depth of 30 centimeters. In short, we were hopelessly stuck in a traffic jam. The smart ones drove along the side of the road. Strongly smart - on the opposite side. And especially smart ones are on the side of the oncoming lane. Our driver turned out to be smart - taxied to the side of the road. We overtook many cars, among which a bus was noticed, which left 15 minutes earlier than ours. They crawled for a long time. I didn't even dream about figs. Well, at least to intercept something on the go! Traffic jam in Simferopol again! We'll have to starve, at least not to be late! We weren’t late, but we didn’t have time to eat either.

The temperature never rose. I saw somewhere the running line +18! Brr! It's good that they disappeared!

I got some money. It turned out that for two without the road Mariupol-Simferopol and back we spent 8100 rubles, or about 3250 UAH.

And we whistled through the border, you won't believe it - in just half an hour! On the Ukrainian side, we were greeted by a billboard “Vitaemo near the villas of Ukraine! ”. But on the reverse side there was an inscription that I didn’t notice at the entrance: “A Ukrainian vacationing in the Crimea occupied by Russians is no longer a Ukrainian. ”

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Translated automatically from Russian. View original
To add or remove photos in a story, go to album of this story
 Вид на Генуэзскую крепость с Перчема
 Вдалеке мыс Меганом, гора Орел и мыс Капчик
 Вдалеке гора Сокол. Вид с Караул-Обы
 Лестница тавров или в простонародье
 корни можжевельника. Используются в качестве ступенек и перил
 Царская бухта.
 Царская бухта
 Царская бухта
 Тропа Верности
 Царская бухта
 Канализационный люк
Си вью
Аттракцион
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