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brazilian pie

27 May 2008 • Travel time: with 28 September 2005 on 13 October 2005
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What can be considered a symbol of Brazil? National anthem, flag, coat of arms?

Oh sure. All this is true, but too formal.

Maybe fabulously beautiful nature, football, crime, samba, colorful carnivals? To some extent, too. But these symbols themselves are not so uniform throughout the country and, depending on the state, have their own local specifics.

Our ideas about Brazil are covered with a strong touch of romance and are very far from reality. What do we really know about this Latin American country?

All our knowledge is based mainly on literary sources, the authors of which, Daniil Kharms or Ilf and Petrov, have never been to Brazil. After reading stories about how Kolka Pankin and Petka Ershov wanted to fly to Brazil, most of our Russian-speaking fellow citizens dream of the same thing.

No, the odious figure of Ostap Bender, who, it must be said, made the greatest contribution to the cause of the great Brazilian dream, still haunts us.


For me personally, Brazil, now, after returning from there, seems like a big, big pie, consisting of layers, each of which is completely different - in taste, color, material, and, finally, in personal visual perception. At the same time, the greatest pleasure can be obtained only by trying all the layers together.

There are countries "convenient" for travel, including independent ones.

They have everything that a tourist needs - a well-established service, a necessary set of attractions, each of which lies on a certain "shelf", according to the needs of visitors, that is, their mentality and pocket.

Almost everything is known about these countries - from books, television and radio programs beloved since childhood, and now from the Internet.

Usually, someone has already been there before us - relatives, acquaintances, acquaintances of acquaintances, and so on ad infinitum

And there are countries that are not very "convenient" for tourism, even organized. It is rather for those who love something extreme, unusual. The choice of such countries is also quite rich. And information about them, on the contrary, is very scarce.

There are countries where they "love" tourists, or rather their wallet.

And there are those where guests are simply welcome, they love them openly and sincerely.

In my opinion, all of the above is very suitable for such a country as far away from us as Brazil - add all these characteristics together and get the same “pie”, which I went to try at the very beginning of spring there, in the southern hemisphere.

And he set off on his way, as always, individually, which in this Brazilian case is a kind of extreme option.

This rather risky, in terms of personal safety, trip is partly due to my lack of knowledge about some of the features of Brazil, and, in part, excessive self-confidence.

And yet, my solitary wanderings through the expanses of a huge, fifth largest country, left in my memory a lot of impressions, pleasant and not very, but the main thing is the desire to return no matter what, at least once again, and, if possible, and more.

Part one - Salvador de Bahia

Planet Brazil


With the light filing of Ostap Bender for most people who grew up in the Soviet Union, the city of Rio - de - Janeiro symbolized the whole of Brazil and seemed like a wonderful dream, something unreal, unearthly.

And the real Rio is a huge modern metropolis and as many as seventeen million people live there.

These are not only the many kilometers of embankments and beaches of Copacabana and Iponema, with numerous hotels, restaurants, street cafes and crowds of idle tourists, but also one of the world's largest high-tech complexes - high technologies, South American * Silicon Valley *.

But Brazil is not only Rio de Janeiro.

Sao Paulo is the third metropolis in the world after Tokyo and Mexico City - officially twenty million inhabitants, unofficially - twenty-five, but no one really knows how many, and no one wants to know. This city, the record holder for the number of murders per capita, is at the same time one of the world's largest centers of high fashion, a city of banks and investment companies, and the largest industrial center in South America. Only one automotive industry Sao Paulo produces cars of such prestigious brands as Ford, Volkswagen, Honda for almost half of the planet.

Salvador is the third largest and most colorful city in Brazil. The spirit of those times when it was the capital of the country still hovers here. Of course, the past greatness is long gone, but the atmosphere of the old colonial Brazil is felt in the old city on every street.

Brazil is too big to be understood at first glance, at least partially. And it is difficult to call it a country in our understanding. This is a planet that has absorbed various cultures - Indian, European, African, having several climatic and natural zones, a country of evergreen tropical forests, huge rivers and a hot mixture of seemingly incompatible peoples that form a single Brazilian nation.

In these impressions of mine, you will not find a story about either Rio - de - Janeiro, or the wilds of the Amazonian delta, or the "golden triangle".


This tour was extreme not only in form, but also in content - the places I visited are just beginning to be explored by Russian-speaking tourists, but this process has gone on very intensively lately.

Salvador de Bahia - first look on the road from the airport

While preparing for this trip, I came across information that in the Brazilian state of Bahia, they are practically unfamiliar with Russian-speaking tourists. It was hard to believe.

Indeed, until recently, this state was not a priority in Brazilian tours, both for Russian and Russian-speaking tourists from Israel, Germany, the USA and other countries. Interestingly, many of my interlocutors there did not know that in general there is such a country in the world - Russia. They knew Germany, Israel, Australia, and when asked about Russia, they looked in surprise and shook their heads.

A flight to another hemisphere is one of the not so pleasant aspects of such trips.

Flights are long and, therefore, a lot depends on the carrier.

I came across a small airline and a corresponding plane - I almost failed to relax my muscles and stretch my legs throughout the entire flight.

The duration of the flight to El Salvador is fifteen hours.

Having completed yesterday over the ocean, we returned back to it - the time difference with Moscow is seven hours.

Landing in Salvador Brazilian - please do not confuse with El - Salvador, the capital of the Central American country of the same name. Night. Local time is three o'clock.

The arrivals hall is almost empty. Only exchange offices work - two kiosks side by side, through the wall, in both the exchange rate is the same, as it turned out later - the most profitable, only different companies - whoever likes which one. Off to the side, several policemen are watching closely. Next to them are representatives of the security service in civilian clothes, you can't go wrong when you see them.


Only now, having descended from heaven to earth, I remember what brought me to a country with a very high crime rate. But, in preparation for the trip, this fact was perceived rather abstractly. Now, seeing the looks of the police in the half-empty airport hall, I felt a little uneasy. But what's done is done.

There is a large taxi rank outside the terminal. All drivers are in the same neat uniform, polite enough and not as pushy as, for example, in Paris or Rome.

To the side, closer to another door, are a couple of cars with the same taxi symbols, the drivers of which look a little suspicious, like their far from new cars. However, they are talking peacefully with the policeman, though who knows what kind of police are here. One of these taxi drivers, a tall, fat Negro, offered his services very politely. Since public transport was not expected at that time, I had to take a chance.

On the way, it turned out that my driver had some problems with the traffic police, so we drove from the airport not along the main highway, but along another, alternative one, along the coast of the Atlantic Ocean, through suburban villages, past some warehouses, workshops and old unkempt buildings - my first look at Brazil was not very pleasant.

In those thirty minutes drive to the hotel along completely empty night streets, we met, and I specifically thought, only five people, and even those of a rather suspicious appearance. But there were many more cathedrals, and at almost every one my driver slowed down and crossed himself so frantically, as if he was not driving a car, but calmly praying in church.

As we moved deeper into the city, the streets began to take on a more decent look and soon we drove up to the hotel, booked in advance, from home.

El Salvador is the number one hotel and the extra hotel

A smartly dressed Afro-Brazilian at the front desk, pointing to his watch, and it was four in the morning, in perfect English, said that my number could be received only after ten hours, that is, at 14 - 00 - this is the generally accepted international standard. Of course, he said, it would be possible to settle me right now, but, unfortunately, all the rooms are occupied until the morning, there are no free places yet, and he apologizes.


Thus began one of the main Brazilian "attractions" - the promotion of tourists, extortion wherever possible. Fortunately or not, but on this issue I received enough information in preparation for the trip.

Regretting that I would have to wait another ten hours, the receptionist informed me that there was an "alternative" option.

He called somewhere, if he called at all, and immediately offered to spend the rest of that night, for only forty dollars, in a beautiful hotel, very close by, and the same Negro taxi driver who had been waiting in the lobby all this time, standing a little to the side , volunteered to take me there, and for free.

The coherence of the actions of all the characters in this performance was obvious.

But there was no way out.

After fifteen hours of flight, sitting another ten in a hotel lobby or walking around an unfamiliar city at night is already too much. And, having agreed to the proposed conditions, I then absolutely did not regret it.

The same taxi driver took me to a magnificent international class hotel, located right on the ocean, surrounded by coconut trees and several other high-rise hotels. Perfect cleanliness all around. So, instead of one booked hotel, it turned out to be an additional one, but it was worth it.

Instead of an old patriarchal town, I was presented with something completely different.

Well, let's use what we have.

What is El Salvador

Speaking of the state of Bahia, I remember...a school course in geometry.

At the heart of this science are axioms, primary theorems are based on them, and then incrementally.

So the state of Bahia would like to be compared with an axiom, the very primary foundation from which the country of Brazil was born and continues to develop. San Salvador da Bahia de Todú , that is the full name of the state capital, and today remains the most *Brazilian place* of the country. It was this city that was the first capital and it was in this area, a little lower along the coast, that the brave Pedro Cabral, the man who discovered Brazil for the Portuguese, landed for the first time. Therefore, this is the only country on the continent where Portuguese is still the official language.


Soon El Salvador turned into a first-class, for its time, naval base and the most impregnable bastion of Portugal in the New World. In many ways, this was facilitated by the favorable geographical position and the stepped structure of the coast in this place. El Salvador is built on a high slope of the Gulf of All Saints. And therefore, both then and now in the historical center - the old city - there are two El Salvadors - upper and lower. The upper city, or Cidade Alta, and, first of all, its oldest quarter - "Pellorino", has always been considered a place of state, administrative and spiritual life. Here was the residence of the governor, the cathedral is located and the most famous aristocratic families of Brazil lived right there. If you want to get to know the real Brazil during the heyday of the slave trade and the sugar boom, then there is no better place to find it.

It is no coincidence that one of the founders of magical realism and a classic of Brazilian literature, Jorge Amado, spun the dramatic action of most of his novels in these streets.

In the heart of "Pellorino" is a house donated to him by the Brazilian government. It was in these places that one of the characters of Jorge Amado, Doñ a Flor, went to the sorceress, who performed mysterious rites

candoble. For many years, El Salvador has been considered the birthplace of this little-known religion, brought by slaves from Africa. Mixed with Christianity and local Indian beliefs, she took on the most fantastic features.

The lower city, or Cidade Baixa, became the front line of defense for all of Bahia, that is, Brazil proper within its then borders, and the residence of the "lower" classes and commoners. There were numerous markets and shopping arcades, docks, barracks and port facilities.

But most importantly, a chain of well-fortified forts was built, perfectly preserved to this day. They made El Salvador almost impregnable for attack from the sea, because they stretched along the golden Atlantic coast for many kilometers and were located in all strategically important places. To overcome the 50 meters difference between the upper and lower cities, a special lift was built - an elevator - * Lacerda *.

Today El Salvador is considered one of the most colorful cities in the country. They say that only by visiting this place, you can understand the psychology of Brazilian society and many features of its mentality.

El Salvador is a model, a social cross-section of the whole society, our first piece of the *Brazilian pie*.

El Salvador from the car window

Communication in English with the locals is a big problem. They either don't know him at all, or hardly know him.

For example, our conversation with a guide - a taxi driver consisted mainly of gestures and a couple of English and Spanish phrases. But, nothing, we agreed.


Along the coast of the Atlantic Ocean, magnificent sandy beaches stretch for many kilometers, and behind them, areas of modern high-rise buildings for * average * and * slightly above average * class.

The panorama that appeared before me when looking from the hotel window is one of such areas - Ondina. Starting from the old Barra lighthouse, you find yourself in another city, as if in another layer of *pie* - the Campo Grande area.

The streets here are tennis-like, there are many mansions and beautiful old buildings of the beginning of the last century. The center of Campo Grande, and, until recently, of the entire state, is, of course, Plasa de Bahia - Bahia Square, with a beautiful park surrounded by very beautiful cast lattices. Here, in ancient buildings, until recently, all local authorities were located.

Bahia's government is now centered in a new, futuristic administrative center recently built next to the highway leading to the international airport.

Campo grande, at the same time, and the center of cultural life in El Salvador. Almost all city theaters are located here, and there are fifteen of them, not counting various studios, as well as several city museums and parks.

As you descend from Campo Grande down to the sea, the landscape changes again. From the old port, the historical center of El Salvador actually begins.

The lower city, Cidade Baixa, has remained from former times a cluster of old multi-storey neglected buildings, warehouses, factories and other junk near the port.

From here, you can take the Lacerda passenger lift directly to the Pellorino center. But if you continue along the coast of the All Saints Bay, you will find yourself on Avenida de Oscar Puendes.

It and two more parallel streets form the commercial center of El Salvador - here are the buildings of banks, various companies, as well as the pride of the townspeople - the Cocoa Institute and Museum - the state of Bahia has been considered one of the largest cocoa exporters in the world since the eighteenth century.


Having passed the commercial center, you again find yourself in another layer of the *pie*, in the area of ​ ​ ​ ​ the railway station *Kalkada*, inside which I was strongly advised not to go in and not look for adventures on my own head.

Judging by the appearance of the building, it was built during the heyday of the slave trade, but either it was never finished, or maybe it has simply not been repaired since then.

Accordingly, the railway station areas - Mares and Roma - have the same shabby appearance. What houses - such and inhabitants. This is clearly visible in the nearby market - one of the residences of local crime. Next on the route - unexpectedly - a very decent old area of ​ ​ ​ ​ Monte Serrat.

There are two places of interest here - the ancient Monte Serrat lighthouse itself and the Bonfim Cathedral, one of the 365 cathedrals of El Salvador, one for each day of the year.

The upper station of the passenger lift "Lacerda" is located in the heart of the historic center of the city, in its core "Pellorino".

Outwardly, the area seems to have changed little since the eighteenth century.

But internally...In the old, restored buildings, today it is not the colonial high society that lives, but a rather motley audience, mostly of "free" professions. Among them, they say, there are also descendants of noble Portuguese families, of that old one, El Salvador, heirs of houses and, for the most part, run-down fortunes.

The "Pellorino" itself, due to the large influx of tourists, looks relatively decent - the old houses have been restored, painted in bright colors, each house has its own, although in general it all resembles the plumage of a parrot. But it's the way it is here.

However, in the same historical center, a little beyond the boundaries of "Pellorino", you find yourself in the areas of ancient buildings of the same time, but unkempt, partially collapsed, without windows and doors, but with signs of life inside - I don’t know only people of what social class dwell there, as the study of this issue is not safe.


The old city smoothly passes into the quarters of modern Salvador. The border between them is very conditional - most likely it is the elongated Lake Tororo, in the center of which a fountain beats out of the water and several sculptures representing contemporary Brazilian art rise. Adjacent to the lake is a huge stadium *Forte Nova* - an obligatory accessory of Brazilian cities, as well as a bullring in Spain.

Football in Brazil is a public matter.

It has its own, completely autonomous, security system. Each building is fenced along the perimeter with high metal fences. You walk down the street, but you don’t see houses, only an exhibition of fences. Each building has a gate with a barrier and a guard - a hefty African. But this is only for cars entering the underground garage.

For people, there is a special entrance, very reminiscent of the entrance of a large factory, with another, also black, guard, and sometimes more than one.

No calls, intercoms and other equipment. Only hefty blacks and TV cameras installed over the fence and blocking all possible and impossible approaches to the building with their field of view. Not so easy, but reliable. At least now take up all-round defense.

This is how every more or less decent high-rise building is protected, and I'm not even talking about villas.

This entire forest of houses stretching into the distance is cut through by excellent high-speed highways, either crossing each other at different levels, or diving into tunnels, or turning into wide avenides, with an obligatory dividing strip in the center.

The state of Bahia has its own parliament with deputies, ministries and, of course, a lot of civil servants.

In my opinion, in such countries, people involved in politics have become, in the eyes of the common people, a special caste. This is constantly emphasized, driven into the head and perceived by ordinary people as a given, as part of their lives.

The Salvadoran International Airport is named after the Deputy (like that, with a capital letter) Luis Eduardo Magalhaes.

Most of the avenues cutting through the city are also named after deputies of both the local and federal parliaments. Throughout El Salvador, huge steles are installed, something like war memorials.

Each such monument is a monument to a certain deputy.

I became very curious about what they did so great for the city, for the country.


The question remained unanswered. Apart from the fact that *depute muerte*, as my guide said, no other explanation could be obtained.

Or maybe he tried to explain, but I did not understand anything.

In the center of the Gulf of "All Saints" - Todos os Santos stretches the island of Itaparica, which has an important strategic position at the entrance to the Salvadoran seaport.

They say it's worth coming here to see the real rural Bahia. However, those villages on Itaparica that are shown on excursions are more like tourist attractions with an emphasis on folk crafts - beads,

shells and, of course, many products made of multi-colored stones are the main Brazilian souvenirs.

About the favelas and the Salvadoran carnival

The panorama of El Salvador would be incomplete without talking about the favelas scattered throughout the city - a purely Brazilian reality.

Favelas can be found in a wide variety of areas of El Salvador, even in relatively wealthy ones. Officially, this is a "squatter building", a group of houses erected on unauthorized plots of land, usually on some kind of hill, close to a large construction site, some of the materials of which go to the construction of houses in the favelas.

In fact, everything is somewhat more complicated.

The Brazilian favella is not just a village - it is a way of life, a state within a state.

An outsider will not walk freely there even a step, but many local travel companies organize tours of the favelas.

It happens like this. The "outside" guide brings you to the entrance and passes you to the "inside" one, who conducts the tour itself, and then "returns" there,

where did you get it from.

On the hill there is a row of relatively decent two-three-storey houses, approximately of the same style, quite solid and not at all like the ruins of the old city, port and station area. Everything looks much better here. Then, on the way home, flying over the city in an airplane, I saw from above what huge areas these villages occupy.


The cost of renting the simplest one-room apartment in the favela now comes to two hundred dollars a month. However, this is a way out for many citizens, even those who have decent jobs, but are not able to rent or buy an apartment in a "normal" area due to exorbitant housing prices.

Today, students, engineers, creative intelligentsia, and skilled workers live in the favelas - that is, people who have nothing to do with the local criminal elite.

At the same time, you can even choose the area of ​ ​ \u200b\u200bresidence - the center, the park area, the seaside embankment - these villages are everywhere.

Today, favelas are an integral part of the Brazilian way of life, its pride, misfortune, and for some, a source of income. Speaking of El Salvador, one cannot but recall the famous Brazilian carnivals. Once on the local tropical soil several centuries ago, the carnival became for the Brazilians not just a holiday, but a way of life. The world's most famous carnival is in Rio de Janeiro.

However, at the same time they are held not one, but several, in different cities, with the largest of them in El Salvador, and only then in Rio and Recife.

If you want to visit the carnival in a quieter way, then you are in Rio, and if you need something extreme, unusual, then welcome to Salvador de Bahia.

Of all the carnivals, usually held in late February, early March, Salvadoran is considered the largest in the world.

At this time, prices in hotels rise by about two times, and the most stressful time comes for local crime, as well as for the police.

Tourist walks - singles

Even though El Salvador has a predominantly Afro-Brazilian population, the neighborhoods along the Atlantic coast, including Ondina, where I lived, have a slightly different audience.

On the first evening, going out to Ocean Avenue, which stretches along the coast, I saw such a picture. The sidewalks were filled with a crowd of people in T-shirts and shorts, engaged in race walking.

The audience is almost one hundred percent European, if sometimes Afro-Brazilians come across, then only athletes. The beginning and end of this tape were hidden in the distance of the avenue. This walking gradually weakened towards the night, and in the morning resumed again. I went for the first evening impressions.


In the hands of a map of the city, on the shoulder a bag with a camera and a video camera - a typical type of tourist, which means for local crime, especially in the evening, an object of increased attention.

Speaking of the city map. I didn’t find it in the souvenir kiosk at the hotel . . I didn’t come across other stores, even grocery stores, in the entire district, for some reason only one bank branch and a few boutiques selling crocodile leather accessories at exorbitant prices. I had to, excuse me, tear out the city plan from the phone book, of which I had three in my room. In the first two, someone has already tried, and from the third I got only half of the Ondina district.

By the way, on about the fourth day there was a plan of the city in the kiosk at the hotel. He just lay under the map of the state and the saleswoman forgot about him a little. There are few buyers, where can I remember everything here.

While plotting the route of my first walk, I found a large shopping center - Barra Shopping - and, judging by the plan, very close, if you go straight, by alleys. Turning off the brightly lit, filled with *walkers*, Ocean Avenue, I moved along the dark streets to my goal. There was no thought in my head that a walk here in the evening, and even in such a defiant form, is impudence and extreme extreme, which can end not very well.

On the map - close, but in reality not very much. In the end, in the semi-darkness of the alleys, the bright lights of Centenario Avenue appeared, with a stream of cars, bus stops full of people, pedestrian bridges and, finally, the goal of this hike - the Barra shopping center. There was already security here, by the way, forbidding me to shoot inside with a video camera and a camera, due to a violation of private property rights.


But on the street, in front of the main entrance, I managed to capture the incoming and outgoing public. I shot it just like that, and then it turned out to be interesting to watch - a winter evening of a normal working day, it was thirty degrees outside, the humidity was about ninety percent and smart people walking, kissing, laughing, chewing - in general, like everywhere else. The truth is on the other side of the earth. But this is also relative - what is considered one side and what is the other side.

It was time to return to the hotel. Judging by the map, Avenue Centenario faced Avenida Oceanica. This path is more distant, but safer than evening walks along the half-dark empty lanes. So I walked along the brightly lit avenida Centenario, but in the place where, judging by the map, the desired intersection should have been, it was not. The wide avenue suddenly ended, somehow at once, as if it had disappeared into the darkness.

Just as suddenly, the flow of cars disappeared - they crawled in different directions along the neighboring streets.

Ahead were some dark, suspicious lanes. But there was no choice. What is forward, what is back.

After walking about three hundred meters along these streets, where eateries occasionally came across, there is no other way to call them, with Africans, an audience completely different from the only - that the idle crowd filmed very close at the Barra, I saw bright lights ahead. It seemed the long-awaited avenida Oceanica, filled with sports-loving European public.

In Brazil, walking along the coast in the evening, even along brightly lit avenues, one cannot relax. And, most importantly, despite the fact that

that the ocean is very close, just cross the beach, it is not recommended to go off the sidewalk. Once on the beach, you find yourself in another world, where no one guarantees your safety, at least the safety of your property.

That evening I returned to the hotel without incident. And I calmed down, ceasing to think about vigilance, forgetting where I was. And he was punished for it.

"Baptism of fire"


The next day, in the morning, taking the same map of half of the Ondina region and all my photo and video equipment, I again went hiking in El Salvador, in full confidence, after yesterday's evening walk, now, in the afternoon, it is completely safe on the street. Passed the huge campus of the university, one of the largest in Brazil, and continued along the wide Avenida Adenard les Barros. At its intersection with Garibaldi Avenue, at the next monument to the "deputy", the "validity zone" of my card ended. But at each bus stop there was a pretty decent map of the city. So I walked and walked from one stop to another, checking these plans from time to time.

And somehow I did not notice that the surrounding landscape had changed.

There were wide roads, but the sidewalks were gone.

Despite yesterday's adventure, the next morning, Sunday, I again went for a walk along the Salvadoran promenade.

The sky was covered with clouds, the air temperature was thirty degrees, from time to time it was raining lightly and the humidity rose to almost one hundred percent. But, despite the weather, life on the embankment was in full swing.

Everything was also crowded on the sidewalks from sports walking enthusiasts - their number has increased even more compared to a normal day.

On the cape jutting into the ocean, near the huge white marble statue of Christ, though smaller than in Rio, was full of athletes.

Right there, on the embankment, there is a monument to the writer Stefan Zweig, who moved to El Salvador after the Nazis captured his native Austria. It is interesting that after the victory over Germany, the same Nazi criminals fled here, to Brazil, and here the descendants of the executioners and their victims, having assimilated, also added their spices to the "layered pie. "

It was so good and calm in the temple that everything was forgotten - and what is happening now on the embankment, and about the police there, at every corner, and about local crime, and, in general, about all the problems, including their own.

So, on the last day, El Salvador turned to me with another face - the face of tolerance, calmness and peace.

Part two - Iguazu

The road to the south - to the "cold lands"

Further, my path lay southwest, in the very heart of South America, a point located at the meeting point of Brazil, Argentina and Paraguay.

The size of Brazil and the underdeveloped railway communication left no other option than air, although I wanted to see the country from the window of not a train, but a bus, the service of which is set to a very high level here. But time...


In Rio - de - Janeiro there was a small, drizzling, similar to autumn European, rain. The temperature is ten degrees, it's good that it's at least a plus.

Here you have South America, warm climes.

By the time my plane to Falls de Iguazu left an hour ago.

But, having passed the gangplank, I went straight to the counter with my flight number. There was no one at the exit except Ra

Translated automatically from Russian. View original
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