Haapsalu. Estonia.
"Small Estonian cities are cozy and friendly, " Sergei Dovlatov once remarked. It is easy to agree with this statement when visiting Haapsalu.
In this small town, even by Estonian standards, Swedish architecture, Russian bourgeoisism and Estonian sentimentality are wonderfully intertwined. Narrow streets with low multi-colored houses seem to have descended from the pages of children's books. It is not surprising that Haapsalu nurtured and nurtured such a talent as Ilon Wikland, the beloved illustrator of the Swedish writer Astrid Lindgren. It was thanks to Ilon, who spent her childhood on the picturesque streets of Haapsalu, that the whole world knew what Carlson, who lives on the roof, looks like : ) Not only artists were inspired by Haapsalu, but also musicians. Pyotr Ilyich Tchaikovsky even dedicated a piano piece to his favorite vacation spot, which he called “Memories of Gapsala”.
The decoration of Haapsalu, its symbol and main attraction is the Bishop's Castle, founded in the 13th century by the Order of the Sword. The construction of the castle, which gave life to the city, lasted for a long 300 years, until Peter the Great won the then Gapsal from the Swedes during the Northern War, having made a couple of impressive gaps in the massive defensive wall of the Episcopal settlement.
Despite the advanced age and turbulent "youth", the Bishop's Castle is very decently preserved. On the territory of the castle there is a beautiful park with a playground "in the knight's style", there is a stage and a kind of "auditorium" in the open air. Entrance to the castle premises is paid - 3 euros, and you can take a walk in the park and the playground for free. Every year, Haapsala Castle hosts the "White Lady" festival - named after the girl who, according to local legend, paid with her life for her love, being walled up alive in the castle wall. Until now, her restless soul wanders through the ruins in search of a loved one... Apparently, on warm August days, the ghost has "periods of exacerbation", and he goes out "to see people and show himself" - then onlookers come to Haapsalu - tourists hoping to see the "White Lady" in the window of the restored church. Well, those who do not notice it should not be upset - they will be told everything in a popular way and shown with the help of a colorful theatrical performance.
Haapsalu is also known for its therapeutic mud. There is even the so-called "African Beach", along which lovers of mud baths, smeared from head to toe, walked along, having lost for a while the northern European look familiar to the eye : ) Apparently, the mild seaside climate, peaceful nature, Western European architecture attracted the attention of the Russian aristocracy, turning Haapsalu in the most popular resort of the Russian Empire at the end of the 19th century. Resting here in those days was as prestigious as it is now, for example, in the Latvian Jurmala. In 1905, a special railway line was laid here and the "Imperial Pavilion" was built to receive the royal family.
Gone are the days when a brilliant audience tasted chocolate, imposingly strolling along the promenade. The summer stage is empty, and there is plenty of free space at the elegant tables under the roof of the carved Kursaal, and the railway was completely eliminated "as unnecessary" at the beginning of the 21st century. However, despite the sad signs of our time, the good old Haapasalu still greets its guests "royally" today: the bus station is located in the elegant building of the former railway station, and the railway museum also functions here. Therefore, those who wish, having arrived in Haapsalu, can walk along the platform like members of the royal family, despite the fact that they arrived here by bus. A trip to Haapsalu will bring a pleasant variety to your Tallinn vacation: beaches, museums, cafes, picturesque streets will not leave adults indifferent, but children will surely be delighted with the Ilon Wonderland (Ilon Wikland House-Museum) and the playground near the walls castle.
The road from Tallinn to Haapsalu takes an hour and a half, the cost of a bus ticket ranges from 7.5 to 8.5 euros (depending on the carrier), a detailed schedule and ticket prices can be found on the website http://www. tpilet. ee (there is a Russian-language menu). Tickets can be purchased both at the ticket office of the bus station and from the driver when boarding the bus, as well as buy a ticket via the Internet on the website indicated above.
I wish you all pleasant travels and vivid impressions!
