Holiday and light city (part 5)

06 January 2020 Travel time: with 04 December 2019 on 08 December 2019
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Part 1. Two godparents and the first acquaintance with Lyon < / a>

Part 2. Fog, Fourviere and Old Lyon

Part 3. Trouble, claustrophobia and other joys

Часть 4. Праздник Света и брак словального запаса

Day 3. Croix-Rousse Hill and the Aesthetics of Working Architecture

Yesterday we walked on the slopes of Fourviere, which is popularly called "praying", and today we go to see the hill Croix-Rousse , or "working".

Lyon became the center of the textile industry in the early 19th century, because it was here that Joseph Jacquard invented the loom. The professional community of weaving factory workers grew rapidly, it needed more living space, and the weavers chose Croix-Rousse Hill.

In 1852, the area was officially annexed by Lyon.


By that time, Croix-Rousse already had more than 50.000 looms and was a patrimony of famous silk factories. Moreover, several manufactories still produce their incomparable fabrics for palaces, castles, museums and world famous designers. < Silk production in Lyon is considered the best in the world.

Place de la Croix-Rousse. The main square of the district, where all mass holidays and political events take place. However, the traditional Christmas market is almost closed, so the local mulled wine has not been tasted.

And here I was not prepared - a box for letters Pè re Noë l installed, and I have not yet written a letter))

In general, the Croix-Rousse quarter immediately strikes with bizarre murals and monuments.

This monument is called Le Chant des Canuts (canuts are silk factory workers). Nuuuu, my perverted warrior last saw a monument to a local song here))

Train your intuition and try to guess what this little Lyon monument is about:

And now check your versions with reality - this monument is dedicated to spring; ))

Mur des Canuts. The largest mural in Europe, with an area of ​ ​.1, 200 square meters. m and depicts the daily lives of residents of the neighborhood.

googleusercontent.


com/FoVAkVxCcFBKVOZe8BDBmxvzx7VSfgrIrBoyLy-fP9NPyy-tL4Fb7eQXNS9aoprq4IwFPr64cZH21E0qMuOyMgXyGe4MqVelSVvyULZ5NhUFRQNj477fmO-bPTXvVdeiEl3_eXRdcLu1dWfw3dbo42VFx2psmWQFi3UZRVLhr00bcIpcKsSbJgS50EQOVl2ZGnZhxj8Pr0cFNDVjCp7PYKq_bo-rzgPLIqHO1UdQ8w5n232CKJ4pz0WLHs-9U1TimSqD80IIzKgcRjE9ZYSwLUWs-ie1Fse16Sf_rqqGbR1POL8H1zbJ8PrnZ_-ZyUkVS7HXnQIxTGalp_yoK8chUlWV3St8HUbrCe9mnt1diGI9aGSV8Oe3v3FPZTbXqhhJWEhdF5CO7TrHO4FW4V8zxkNLxdSupzike8r5kLzWaYfvcftHwzmgDm9J9ETNEdbjVO5tFn_n59eMouz0QZLxi-VCiwp1xsdUiARkt0Qso3WAUulxalOAVCyD5xMcA5ORXW_4p5YGlTTlcPnbAqkcaLVNFBxQSrkXNfBfOdGPofZeppAX4Sni5wz4ToAchxsZjCENQWJB7lJLclmUD3EB0uQdTXUoKr_EqADfgzNcwGkjS3sSjwrWJtOV_2VwQlfs2IvR0_8eZDQt5txqBNxflXG-wRhctE0BkLBmgy0AzTPXkKMjowjRwdd1mvRQ4v45p-uBF4kPe8ggurunD0x9bSViBCZfO6xXi_trJX0ttEoNOfU=w1400-h933-no" style="height: 933px; width: 1399px "/>

Interestingly, the mural is constantly updated. New modern heroes and details appear, so the mural lives and develops together with the city.

The skill of this work is such that even standing side by side, it is very difficult to distinguish real details from painted ones.

Let's play on.

Le Gros Caillou or the Big Stone is a symbol of the area. This large and very hard gray-white rock was brought here by glaciers from the Alps.

Its discovery dates back to 1861, when the string of the funicular that connected the center of Lyon with the hill of Croix-Rus was pierced. Then the tunnel work had to be stopped because the road was blocked by hard rock, which they could not break through. As a result, in order to pull out this "stone", it was necessary to dig it from all sides.

With such difficulty, the "exhumation" of Gros Caillou became a symbol on the one hand of the strength and perseverance of the Lyons in overcoming difficulties, and on the other - a symbol of the unity of central and peripheral Lyon.

View of the Rhone and the New City:

Meet the locals "target =" _ blank "> Traboules .

Unlike the Old Town, the Trabuli hills of Croix-Rus were used mainly by weavers and traders to move more quickly between the workshops on the hill and the shops in the lowlands. Troubles played a role during the Lyon uprising against the tax policy of the government in 1831

The most famous is the trabul Cour des Voraces or "House of the Republic". Its name comes from a group of workers who were active revolutionaries in 1848. Trabul has a monumental eastern facade of six floors.

The courtyards here, unlike the Old Town, are huge.

The most fashionable is the Passage Thiaffait , in which the Village des cré ateurs is located. These are former weaving manufactories, playing for a long time. Subsequently, they were given to local creators. Thus was formed the Tiaffe Passage with shops, boutiques of young designers and creative cafes and bars.


The most famous is the La Tra du Moirage. This is the courtyard of the former convent of Saint Charles des Feuillants, built in 1619. After the monks, a silk factory was located in this area. It was here that the technique of finishing the fabric called "moirage" was invented.

* moirage - "magic" fabric that reflects light according to the angle of view and creates the illusion of shimmering and iridescent highlights.

Pay attention to the windows. Most of the houses on the slopes of Croix-Rus on the lower floors have large and long windows. The higher, the smaller their size.

This was done so that more sunlight could enter the lower rooms and workers could work longer. And on the upper floors, as a rule, there were living rooms for weavers.

Visualization of work and life of weavers. ="" src="https://scontent.fiev3-1.fna.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/79819232_2658811207517512_8337763451300478976_n.jpg?_nc_cat=101&_nc_ohc=XFs0H2OL7ZMAQlR3m-TtMXhiH5fCzERUnihJA-aaW6aa3Q3G3jzcjAlMQ&_nc_ht=scontent.fiev3-1.fna&oh=a28b5c52fbe007c73c613bd58aabbe23&oe=5EA457D7"style =" height: 532px; width: 800px "/>

The magic trabul on rue Coustou after a small staircase opens the entrance to a large and green courtyard.

And this long open trabul unites several yards and has interesting mosaic elements on the walls and floor.


By the way, about walking around the city. First, I do not know why Google quarreled with the municipality of Lyon, but at home it turned out that Google maps do not allow to build routes by public transport. Only by car or on foot. So the scheme of the subway and the direction of trams / buses will not be superfluous.

Secondly, already in the city with me the application "maps. me" was quarreled. He flatly refused to find me in Lyon. I had to go back to the old grandfather's way of orienting in space - a map, street name and house numbers. This is from the original city))

Amphithé â tre des Trois Gaules.

Gallo-Roman amphitheater, also called the Amphitheater of the Three Gauls. The time of its construction is known in about 1 tbsp. BC e. The amphitheater was named after the three Roman provinces located in modern France.

Initially, representatives of the Gallic provinces gathered here to meet and resolve various issues. Later, legionnaires took the oath, and in the 2nd century the first Christian martyrs were executed.

Fresque vé gé tale lumiè re. The wall of the Saint-Charles Clinic was in a state of permanent painting by local unknown elements.

The municipality allocated funds for painting the wall, it was painted again. Then painted. And painted again. It seemed that this struggle would be eternal.


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But a fresco by Cité Cré ation solved the problem. Artistic work symbolizes the presence of vegetation in a dense urban environment and the ecological vision of the problem of urban lighting.

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Views from the slopes of Croix-Rus to the Son River and the Fourviere Hill:

It used to look like this (photo звідси):

Fresque des Lyonnais. This is another trompe-l'œ il mural depicting prominent people associated with Lyon. The focus is on celebrities who have left their mark on the country's history, artists and book characters.


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Work on the mural began in the late 20th century and ended in 2013.

Emperor Claudius, born in Lugdunum (then Lyon):

The Lumiè re brothers were the founders of cinema, who made their first commercial screening on December 28.1895. in the Parisian "Grand Cafe" = G3IA6SyHhHUAQmr03VtEL-gwwH0sHud9Nk5LiU10lGczosJZ97SjT2bzw & _nc_ht = scontent. fiev3-1.

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The Little Prince with his creator Antoine de Saint-Exupery and the French puppeteer Laurent Mourguet:

Legendary chef Paul Bocuse:


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Lord of the three Michelin stars. Founder of the most prestigious international haute cuisine competition - Bocuse d'Or. Holder of the title of "Chef of the Century" on the European and American continents. He was awarded the Order of the Legion of Honor (France's highest award).

Even a composite portrait of a tourist on a mural))

To be continued here:

Часть 6.

Peninsula, evening city and unexpected worship

Часть 7. Праздник Света, студенческие работы и Сальвадор Дали < / p>

Часть 8.

Annecy - man and steamer city and lake in Haute-Savoie

Part 9. Feast of Light, Queues and Philosophical Reflections

Translated automatically from Ukrainian. View original
To add or remove photos in a story, go to album of this story
 Fresque des Lyonnais, збірний портрет туриста ))
Пагорб Croix-Rousse
 Район Croix-Rousse.
 Place de la Croix-Rousse.
 Скринька для листів Père Noël
Район Croix-Rousse.
 Монумент, що присвячений весні ))
 Mur des Canuts.
 Mur des Canuts.
 Mur des Canuts.
 Mur des Canuts.
 Mur des Canuts.
 Mur des Canuts.
 Mur des Canuts.
Район Croix-Rousse.
 Le Gros Caillou або Великий камінь
 Вид на Рону та Нове місто
 Трабулі пагорбу Croix-Rousse.
 Трабулі пагорбу Croix-Rousse.
 Трабулі пагорбу Croix-Rousse.
 Трабулі пагорбу Croix-Rousse.
 Трабулі пагорбу Croix-Rousse.
 Трабулі пагорбу Croix-Rousse.
Трабулі пагорбу Croix-Rousse.
 Трабулі пагорбу Croix-Rousse.
 Трабулі пагорбу Croix-Rousse.
 Район Croix-Rousse.
 Amphithéâtre des Trois Gaules.
 Amphithéâtre des Trois Gaules.
 Fresque végétale lumière.
 Fresque végétale lumière.
 Maison aux 365 fenêtres або Maison Brunet.
 Види зі схилів Круа-Рус на річку Сону та пагорб Фурв’єр
 Види зі схилів Круа-Рус на річку Сону та пагорб Фурв’єр
 Види зі схилів Круа-Рус на річку Сону та пагорб Фурв’єр
 Види зі схилів Круа-Рус на річку Сону та пагорб Фурв’єр
 Запобіжник від злочинців ))
 Fresque des Lyonnais.
 Fresque des Lyonnais.
 Fresque des Lyonnais.
 Fresque des Lyonnais.
 Fresque des Lyonnais.
 Fresque des Lyonnais.
 Fresque des Lyonnais.
 Fresque des Lyonnais.
 Fresque des Lyonnais.
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