"Yes, they are Greek!" Adventures in mainland Greece. With elements of time management

14 November 2021 • Travel time: with 10 October 2021 on 21 October 2021

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The idea to visit mainland Greece in the autumn arose in mid-summer, when statistics on coronavirus declined, European countries opened to tourists from Ukraine one by one, and it seemed that the world was about to return to pre-pandemic hours… But rumors of a strain Delta, meanwhile, was becoming increasingly unsettling, and somewhere in the subconscious, the idea crept in that in a month or two, when summer was over and students were sitting at desks again, a new wave would sweep Europe and tighten the tourist nuts.

Travel to Greece in this case seemed one of the least risky (given the possible closure of borders through quarantine in the next few months), as the first EU country began admitting Ukrainians (from 14.05), before the official inclusion of Ukraine in the "green list" »EU.

The second least risky was a trip to Spain (Spain, along with Estonia and Belgium, in mid-summer began to admit Ukrainians without testing and vaccination, but as of mid-October remained in this aspect and the only…). And what unites these two countries, in my opinion - their economies depend more than other European countries on tourism and they will close their borders for the citizens of Ukraine last…

Tickets bought in late July-early August, ie 2.0-2.5 months before the trip. The flight Kyiv-Athens cost 1539 UAH per person, back Thessaloniki - Kyiv at 29.99 E. With the last guess, it was the "price bottom", then the price was in the range of 45-55 E, and from the first was more difficult - then the price of this flight "jumped" from 800 to 2200 UAH. You can't guess here ...

Initially, 7 nights were planned in Athens (in one of the hotels on the coast) and 4 nights in Thessaloniki, with one-day trips to Delphi, Meteora and Mount Olympus. But 25.08. In 2021, the Greek government announced restrictions from 13.09, according to which moving by public transport from one part of Greece to another is possible either with a vaccination certificate or with a negative PCR or antigen test. The program had to be revised quickly: reduced by 1 one night stay in Athens and Thessaloniki, adding 2 nights in Kalambaka (closest to the Monasteries of Meteora). Train journeys were selected to achieve a 48-hour interval allowing the antigen test to take effect.

We flew, as I mentioned above, with Wizzair airline, from the forgotten Zhulyany airport (in 2020-2021 we flew through Borispol).

Unlike domestic "duty-free", which, at least, do not impress with the range or prices, "Zhulyansky" surprised by the presence of the German brand "Aisbach" at 18 euros per liter. For comparison, in the Viennese dute I bought the same drink two months ago at 10.70E for 0.5 liters. The only inconvenience is in a glass bottle, which is not very convenient to carry with you when there are a lot of moves. So, the flight was in the evening (18:30 - 21:05), the flight was delayed for half an hour, in Athens sat with the same hour's delay. Upon arrival, all passengers on our flight were sent by the airport staff for a free antigen test. Immediately after which, without waiting for results, everyone went to the border guards. Border guards did not ask any questions at all, completely mechanically scanned passports and also mechanically stamped them.

Then there was a rather long transition to the exit №5, where the X96 bus we needed stopped.

Among the endless queue of shops and car rental outlets, a shop with a bright and very familiar name "Periodicals" stood out. As you may have guessed, it sold newspapers and magazines. But they interested me in the second place, and in the first place to buy an unlimited ticket for public transport for the next 5 days. But they failed - they were not sold here. Going forward, I will say that I managed to buy the necessary tickets in the vending machines at the tram stops in Athens. And here is our bus X96 (go 2 times an hour during the day and 1 time an hour at night, tickets are sold only at the kiosk at the stop, previously also sold by the driver, but now due to certain restrictions the driver's cab is protected by film and entrance / there is no exit to the front door. Fare 5.50 € (in my last visit to Athens in 2016, the cost was 6 €).

Drive to our hotel for about 40 minutes, get off at the 3rd Kalamaki stop, then turn back, walk along the promenade against the bus and at the 5th turn turn left. This street had some atypically surprising name for Greece "Fan Vaik" (in my opinion, a somewhat ethnic accent, which means - did not specify), but most importantly, that it was our hotel! Nefeli Hotel Alimos, modern, new, with elevator:

Hotel" Nefeli Hotels Alimos "

There is everything you need, including a refrigerator, hair dryer, small bottles of shower gel and hand sanitizer. If you get a room with windows in the yard - it will be quiet, if the street - a little noisier. After all, against the school. But it is unlikely that school differences will prevent you from relaxing, because classes start at 8:30, and breakfast at the hotel restaurant - from 7:30. Breakfast due to quarantine restrictions from 13.

09 was translated into a continental format: each guest was given a lunch box containing a sandwich, a boiled egg, a sweet bun and an apple. Tea, coffee, juice and milk are not limited. Some tourists brought food and even (strong! ) Drinks for breakfast to the restaurant - the staff did not pay attention to it.

To the sea from the hotel - about 200 m, but you need to cross the highway with a pedestrian crossing and a tram line. There, at the tram stop, you can buy single and multiple tickets for public transport. I chose unlimited "5 day tickets" for 8.20E. Payment by payment card only. At the first trip it is necessary to validate in the validator in salon, from date and time of validation 120 hours during which it operates are counted. Part of the coastline is a pebble beach (partly free, partly - paid) and the promenade with park and benches:

There are several cafes in the park (not all of them have been open since the low season, and an open-air cinema (also already closed) . This area of Athens is called Alimos). ))) and the Mexican restaurant "Penarrubio" (not visited). A few words about supermarkets. In Athens, they are divided into ethnic Kakanimeni, the lowest prices for LiDL and Sklavenidis. The closest to MyMarket beach is just one block. / kg, kiwi - from 3.5 E / kg, pomegranate - from 4.5 E / kg, tomatoes - from 3E / kg.

This is the price both in these supermarkets and in small fruit and vegetable shops: - (Significantly better prices in agricultural markets, but in what places they work and on what schedule - it is unknown, in the city center found them twice, on the coast - no one.

One day we went to a very interesting place - the park "Flisvos" (tram number 4).

The park is very green, which is a bit unusual for Athens, has many areas for outdoor activities (rope, golf course, tennis courts, etc. ), and then gradually move to the huge "Flisvos Marina". Who doesn't know - "Marina" is a marina. Admission is free, although there are many guards, you can take photos. Yachts - countless:

The most common flags (after various offshore islands) are Malta and Australia. Although there were Poland, Argentina, South Africa, Germany.

For guests arriving on yachts - taking care of any amenities - there are a large number of restaurants (with very high prices), a hotel and even ATMs:

Nearby is a steamer-museum (early twentieth century):

Admission is free, but I did not come.

And a little further - a few fenced berths, which are moored copies of the National Maritime Museum of Greece: the military cruiser "Averof", a copy of the medieval rowing galley and several steamers of the early twentieth century. Entrance to the museum is paid - 3 euros, the work schedule is very inconvenient: Tuesday to Friday from 9 to 14, Saturday to Sunday from 10 to 17, Monday closed. A few words about the Cruiser:

The ship is truly unique, built in 1910, participating in World Wars I and II, but what is most incredible - it is still on the move!

In 2020, he made the transition from Thessaloniki to Athens on his own engines, without towing!

This area of Athens is called Palio Faliro, if you want to see it in a little more detail - its main street Alexandrou, starts a little further from the stop "Flisvos", the landmark - the building "ALPHA" -bank, as you might think, this financial institution has long operated in Ukraine under the brand "Astra-bank")

The street is not wide, but long, new houses, 6-8 storeys, absolutely all the first floors are occupied by various shops or cafes, there are even books. What was surprising on the balconies of some buildings during the construction provided barbecue areas with hoods

What made me very happy was the huge number of benches for rest, literally every 50 meters. The ultimate goal of the Alexandrou walk was to visit the LiDL store.

There, as well as 5 years ago, there was a food market, its area was significantly reduced - from all sides it was approached by tables of different cafes.

Given that it was about one o'clock in the afternoon - the market almost parted, but the prices of the remaining sellers pleased: kiwi - 1E / kg, grapes 1.0-1.4 E / kg, plums 1E / kg, pomegranates 1.4E / kg, dates 1 E / kg . We decided to have lunch there: moussaka (vegetable-gum casserole) and sulavaki (4 kebabs) cost 16 €. As for the tourist center of the city - this is normal.

Back back on the street. Metropolitos. The dominant role in it is played by the Cathedral (in 2016 it was under restoration), now it amazes:

It was surprising that there were seats in the Councils of the Greek Orthodox Church. In the WTO, unfortunately, no.

Around half past two, we return to Syntagma.

I could not imagine that in three weeks this will happen in Kiev! ). Syntagma has several large souvenir stalls, one of which sells huge calendars for 2022 with views of Greece. Only 3 E. For the second time on this resource there is someone else who likes to bring calendars from travel for the coming years. But the Syntagma Square flag is certainly not that. As you know, it is the building of the Greek Parliament, near which, as you know, every year there is a change of honor guard. Photos of this extraordinary event here:

Next, take the subway to Omonia Square, which has a very controversial reputation in tourist circles.

On the one hand - because there are many different shopping centers for different wallets, and on the other - there are many abandoned buildings, few people, and in general the area is a bit criminal.

Athens Metro is easy to navigate (only 4 lines, 3 of which intersect at the station.

Syntagma). But the problem is that all the signs in the subway are only in Greek, without English duplication. Therefore, to find a suitable line and direction, I had to strain a little mentally. According to some tradition, during the design of some Athens metro stations, many exhibition centers were built directly in the underground space. Last time, in the exhibition hall on Syntagma there was a fair of Greek honey, now - an exhibition of ancient costumes, and not only Greek. The entrance, unfortunately, at the invitations at the entrance of the pass people checked with the list. Perhaps only journalists or art critics were allowed in: - (But no one forbids taking pictures from the doorstep:

From Syntagma to Omonia drive only 2 stops.

The interval between trains is 5 minutes, there are a lot of people in the carriages, but, despite this, it is possible to squeeze between them "folk singers" of Roma nationality.

They sing in masks. In Omonia, they guessed from the subway - right at the entrance to the shopping center "Hondos". Hondos is a network of large Greek department stores located in different cities of the country. Prices are above average. I won't even find an analogue here. We chose this department store in Omonia - because it is located in the shopping district, and secondly, on its last, 9th floor there is an open cafe with panoramic views of the whole city! Before entering, the security measures the temperature with an electronic thermometer - for the first time an electronic non-contact temperature meter, showing a value close to the real - 36.2 C.

All preliminary measurements by devices of this class in different cities recorded a completely unrealistic temperature range from 33.5 to 34.5 C.

According to the Hondos tradition, the first two floors are occupied by perfumes and cosmetics. On this day, there was a 20-50% discount on a large number of goods. Topical creams at a high level of price / quality.

Gradually go up (there is an elevator and escalators). Speeches on 7-8 floors. 30-40% discount on some brands. Tax-free in Greece starts at 60 e. And here is the last, 9th floor. The coffee shop is specific: if you want to sit at a table inside - you need to provide a certificate of vaccination or a certificate of negative antigen test, if you sit at a table on the terrace - you do not need to provide anything. We did not order anything in the cafe, just took a few photos from the terrace of the cafe.

Acropolis:

Likabittos Hill (highest point of Athens):

Omonia Square itself:

Next was the plan on the bus №060 (do not be surprised, in Athens, the numbering of intercity buses is three-digit, if the bus goes outside the city - then the route number is added a letter like X96, B2, C1, etc. ). Drive to the lower station of the funicular, which climbs the hill.

But it was evening and it was cloudy, so there was a risk that we would not see anything. We decided to move to an earlier and sunny hour. The square itself looks a little awful, due to the large number of beggars. homeless, tables "all for 3 E" (what a contrast - only 50m fashionable department store).

On a parallel street - multi-storey office buildings are completely abandoned. Visited the shopping center "Metropolis". Very specific. Goods Sections not by brands or types - but by prices! Here is a number - all 10 There are (shirts, T-shirts, sweaters), then - all 15, then - all 20, etc.

It is somewhat reminiscent of the Chinese market, but all sellers are local, there are cash registers, issue checks, the house has an elevator.

The origin of the goods is mainly China, although I have seen Made in Greece. And with the sign "100% BAMBAKO" (T-shirts, shirts, tracksuits). BAMBAKO - translated from Greek - cotton. Suspicion of something…

The next day of travel - October 14 was very unusual.

As you know, Greece - an Orthodox country, also celebrates the Feast of the Trinity, but 14.10 - is a fully working day, namely this holiday in the country has been postponed for two weeks, and is celebrated on 28.10 - on the Independence Day of Greece.

On October 14 and 15, all weather sites predicted sunshine with heavy rain. We will soon learn what "heavy rain in Greek" is. It had been raining since morning, normal, not very heavy with breaks, but thunder thundered several times and the rain intensified. There was nothing to go to the waterfront.

A call with a warning (in different languages) about the storm warning was received on the mobile phone (Lifesell).

But the winter storm rain, almost without wind - what is the storm here? At about 2 pm the rain stopped. Despite the fact that there was no sun, we went for a walk. The promenade, also known as Poseidon Avenue, looked like this:

Trams did not run when flooded:

We walked for a while, it rained again, but with the wind, opened the umbrellas, decided to return, but it was not easy, because the sidewalks on the avenue were already flooded with water, due to a damaged drainage system, which is underway, despite rain, tried to clear the local utilities So the avenue crossed the bridge (photo above), the hotel was reached by roundabouts and on the other hand:

The next day, despite the changeable weather (the bright sun, the low clouds, and the weather forecast threatens rain), still decided to try a second time to climb the hill Lycavitt.

To do this, we took tram 5 to Syntagma again. Then on the subway one stop to the station. Evangelical. At the exit - a large park, which suddenly saw a flock of large green parrots!

For some reason, I immediately remembered magazines from a distant childhood, where the drawings suggested finding some hidden animals or mythical characters. And how much do you see?

Further down Plutarch Street past the Greek Military Museum:

and the monumental British Embassy are moving in the direction of the funicular. Plutarch Street is gradually starting to go up, until it will not turn into steps at all! Some strange feeling - you walk up the steps, and around the windows of houses:

¦ The steps are quite steep, but sometimes there are benches for the hallway.

On one of the perpendicular streets (Democritus Street, to be exact) we notice the fruit and vegetable market. Sold directly from cars. We buy tomatoes for 0.5 € / kg. Just a little bit and we can already see the lower station of the funicular. The cost of travel OW 7.5 E. Race every 30 minutes.

There is a souvenir shop inside the station, but the prices are higher than at Syntagma. The peculiarity of this funicular is that it does not go on the slope of the mountain, but inside the mountain, like a vertical subway. There is no driver in the funicular. The driver works behind the console at the top station.

As soon as we reached the top of the hill, it started to rain. From which they successfully hid in a closed restaurant with panoramic views. Prices for any wallet, the cheapest - kebabs from 5.90 E. About an hour later the rain subsided, but it remained cloudy, so the photos will not be very bright.

On the hill, in addition to the restaurant, there are two observation decks and a small church:

The first thing you notice when you look around is a parking lot very close to the top, and a modern amphitheater nearby. The purpose of the latter is unknown:

Acropolis:

Views of Athens from the mountain:

We went down the same way. Only on the square. Evangelissimos did not go to the subway, but to the bus stop №608. The goal is to return to the square. Ommonias. Immediately behind the square. Syntagma, the bus left on the street. Academy, with a very interesting architecture - Art Deco has never seen buildings of this style. Outside the window swept the house of the cinema and theater, an old department store, it started raining again back to take photos through the window did not make sense. Alleys on the square. The academy still came out for the photo.

Greek Academy of Sciences Building:

National Library:

Upon returning to Alimos, we walked along the promenade for a long time, breathing in the wind of the stormy sea,

watching the sunset:

preparing for tomorrow's busy and busy day. When it got dark, we made the last visit to MyMarket, where we ate Greek ice cream (0.71E for 140 UAH) and bought a very strange drink by heart (Ambrosia, ***, 30 °)

3.02 Available for 0.2 liters. There was no nectar: - (

)

I'll make a small digression. Being planning to travel from Athens for a day to the foot of Mount Parnassus, to the "place of power of developers and the DBA" - where in ancient times foretold the Delphic Oracle: - (In short, in the city of Delphi.

This idea was facilitated by the negative result of a rapid test from the Athens airport, which allowed 48 hours of travel in Greece by intercity transport.

But the Greek bus company ktel insidiously canceled the earliest flight from Athens to Delphi at 8:00, the next only at 10:30. Given that it takes three hours to go one way, and the last Delphi-Athens bus leaves at 16:00, there was no point in going.

In addition, the bus station was located near the opposite part of the city, and the journey to it from our hotel took about two hours. Postponed until the best, less quarantine, hours, let them not last long: - (

Here comes the day of moving. The program is very full. Today we have a transfer from Athens to Kalambaka with a change at Paleofarsalos station. Train at 15.22. Check out before 11:00. Aln still needs to pass the antigen test. According to the law of malice, there were no necessary laboratories in our district. The nearest to us is one of the laboratories of the Bioatriki network (231 Eleftherios Venizela Street).

Take tram №5 to the Achilles stop, 25 minutes from us . . At 11:30 on the spot (we left the hotel in advance, leaving luggage in a special room).

The analysis is not taken in a modern beautiful building, but in a small booth-container around the corner. Price 10 euros.

Laboratory assistants work in ordinary gowns and disposable medical masks, without hats, take clients' passports with the same gloves and open bags with sticks, which are used for analysis: -: (result by mail Just in case, please print But then unexpected trouble - the board at the stop shows that before our tram to wait as much as 28 minutes, before the intervals were not more than 15 minutes.

Time goes by and waiting time does not decrease. We decide to go to the embankment on №3, and then wait for №4.

So we arrived, we were also counting on the buses going along the embankment, but, probably, some force majeure happened, and the buses didn't go either! Finally at 13:50 near the hotel.

Traveling with luggage to Syntagma again on the T5, and then 3 more stops to the station "Larissa", where the railway station is - too risky, given today's incomprehensible problems with transport in the Greek capital. We ask the receptionist to call a taxi to take us to the nearest station of the "red line", which, in fact, goes to the station. Not the first time but a taxi was found. At 14:10 we leave. At 14:25 we disembark at the station "Aghios Dimitrious". The taxi ride cost 5.50. We have 11 stations and 50 minutes ahead of us. The races in the Athens metro are short and at 15.00 we are already at the station. The station is old. small and very tight. Our train is visible on the board, but the platform number is not indicated. We follow the other passengers.

When entering the platforms, several uniformed officers try to demand a vaccination test / certificate from the passengers.

Their mistake - the three of them rush at one victim, while he is looking for the necessary document on the phone, several dozen quickly pass by.

The station is very specific, only platforms 8-12.1-7, which are under dismantling, are working. We ask some people in the booth (who look like security guards) about the train to Thessaloniki (we go to them), they call platform 9. There are no signs. There are already a solid number of people on this platform. Judging by the view - all local, without tourists. The train arrives 10 minutes before departure. It looks like this:

Inside - the usual standard European "Intercity". With controllers. Catering. No graffiti. Our training car is somewhere between 60% and 70.70. Of course, everyone is wearing masks. Many passengers enter and exit at intermediate stations.

Real, non-touristy Greece begins. Many agricultural lands, there are mountains (including snow-covered)

, lakes, sea bays. Several times the train passed through mountain tunnels.

We arrive at Paleoforsalos station 11 minutes late (at 18:00 instead of 17:49). Given that the connection between our train Paleoforsalos and Kalambaka was scheduled to depart at 18:20, it was necessary to act quickly. Since there was no sign on the platform again, they decided to follow the crowd. The crowd moved underground to the first platform. On the first platform stood several railway workers in uniform. Who calmly and methodically repeated that today's flights to Kalambak… canceled! But instead there will be buses soon. So, somewhere it is written that Saturday, October 16, was declared the day of transport force majeure.

In 20 minutes buses arrive. First - in the city of Trikala, then ours - in Kalambak.

Travel, of course, is free, no one requires documents (both for the right to travel and for vaccination / testing).

Immediately the boundless fields begin, somewhere at the horizon they end in mountain strands. The fields are almost empty, probably harvested. At the very beginning, I see strange, small, but very old trucks (probably from the 1990s) with lattice bodies, on which the remains of something white can be seen. Soon I see a field with the remains of some small white rags. My suspicions were confirmed a few days ago - Greece grows its own cotton!

However, the areas of cotton in the course of our bus are insignificant, spring crops and vegetables predominate. Settlements on both roads are rare. Many old abandoned industrial buildings and new but unfinished ones attract attention. Something very similar to the border areas of Slovakia or Hungary.

Roma settlements with scary houses collected from improvised materials are also available.

But there are quite Western European gas stations, motels, shopping malls (with Chinese names). The toll road speaks of the proximity of the tourist region. But its length is a maximum of 5 km. Meanwhile, the mountains are getting closer and closer, although the edge is already shrouded in twilight. Finally, in 70 minutes we arrive in Kalambaka (the train declared the passage of the specified route for 56). The train station is on the outskirts of town on a bypass road, but our hotel will take about 15 minutes. It is called "Aeolic Star Hotel" and is located in a small square on all sides, surrounded by cafes and restaurants.

Right behind the town (and such an impression - right above the hotel) hang rocks. The same Meteors. The cost of accommodation in the hotel 76.5 There are two nights. No breakfast. This is not a problem, as the room has an electric kettle and a refrigerator.

The room is a bit cramped, but we only have to spend the night in it.

A few words about the area where we stopped.

Meteors are a unique natural phenomenon, a natural phenomenon is single rocks (some adjacent to the mountain range), according to legend, they are underwater rocks at the bottom of the long high sea. Their height is 400-600 meters, most of them in the Middle Ages began to appear monastic monasteries, in order primarily to protect monks from the half-wit of the Turkish conquerors. In different centuries the number of monasteries was different (maximum reached 50), to our time there are only 6

The next morning we go to the bus station (100 m below the square with fountains). There are 2 daily buses from Kalambaki to Monastyri, at 9:00 and 12:00, and in the return direction only one - at 15:00. The cost of the trip is 1.60 €, unlimited ticket for the whole day 5.50 €. But its expediency is not clear at all, as the cost of three single tickets is lower.

Reading stories that some tourists go to the monastery on foot, in principle, it is realistic to go 6 km to the homeland, but the mountain roads are very narrow and not everywhere pedestrian areas.

While waiting for the bus - we noticed that in the houses opposite the tourists are offered an attraction in the form of flights over the rocks in balloons. But the cost was not specified

The bus, before going deeper into the mountains, makes a circle around the town, making stops near each of the large hotels (only 5) and in our square with a fountain. The bus is large, for international transport,

But there were no more than 20 passengers in it. All in masks. If you plan to visit all the monasteries at once, I recommend taking a flight at 9:00, go to the monastery of St.

Women that in trousers or short skirts are offered some obscure clothing, something between a skirt and an apron, the only difference is that in the Big Meteor it is free and reusable (at the exit you have to return), and St. Stephen's is worth 2 There are and remain in the memory of tourists.

The material is very close to the tarpaulin: - (I liked the Big Meteor more. First, it is the largest in area and the most valuable church relics are on display. More space and fewer tourists, although it is harder to get to. stairs first down, then sharply up All the monasteries are somewhat similar to each other: the overview offers the Museum of the Monastery, directly the Cathedral (in both no foto) and the Monastery Shop.

In the Church, in my opinion, services are not held, there is no smell of candles and incense. I can be wrong. Photo from the Great Meteor:

The Museum exhibits many ancient relics and artifacts (VIII-XII centuries), but photos are again prohibited.

In St. Stephen's Monastery, on the contrary, Church life is extremely playful. All the staff (women, nunnery) in monastic clothes, many tourists have school groups, there is also a Sunday church school. In 2021, Greece celebrates the 200th anniversary of Independence, there are relevant posters and literature. The monasteries of Valaam, Greater Meteora and St. Stephen's have small parking spaces. Most cars with Greek license plates, but also saw the French, Romanian and ours (VK - Rivne region).

A clear year, souvenir shops and vans with drinks and snacks are located near these monasteries.

Photo from St. Stephen's Monastery:

In the Monastery:

View of Kalambaka:

View from Kalambaka to St. Stephen's Monastery:

Photos of other monasteries.

Monastery of St. Nicholas:

Barlaam Monastery:

Holy Trinity Monastery:

Holy Barbarian Monastery (Rusanu Monastery):

We return by bus at 15:00 (all monasteries are closed to visitors at about the same time), there are obviously no other ways to get to Kalambaki, except by taxi.

The road in Kalambak passed through the village of Meteora, which consisted entirely of mini-hotels and taverns. What also drew attention to the fact that people live in caves created naturally in the rocks (weathering and erosion).

Who it is - could not be determined.

Maybe the Roma population. He also saw the training of amateur climbers trying to conquer the rocks in their own way.

After returning to Kalambak, we have lunch in one of the local taverns (the prices on the menu in taverns and restaurants are almost the same). Then we walk around the town. Sunday. All supermarkets are closed, but tourist shops (leather, fur, confectionery) are open.

Our nasty day is another move. Now to Thessaloniki. Again with a change in Paleoforsalos (09:28 - 10:25.10:37 - 12:43). When landing, no one checked the tests.

The first part of the move was not particularly memorable, except for a stop in the town of Trikala - it is clearly more than Kalambaka, says neat, most houses are multi-storey (in Kalambaka mostly private). In Paleoforsalols, the transfer is completely without adventure, I was surprised that our car is almost empty (except for us only 3 passengers).

As of today, they plan to open in 2022, with 2 lines with 23 stations at once. Fare - 0.90 There are up to 60 minutes per trip and 1.80 If more than 60 minutes.

There are 2 vending machines installed in the bus cabins - one sells a ticket, the other composts. But the first delivery does not give out. If you are interested, go to the airport (buses X1 and N1) for 1 ticket.

80 Yes, although we drove on the day of departure really 50 minutes. , The level of quality and prices is lower, but the closer to the center, the clearer and more expensive. Branded stores of one or another factory are very common.

We stay in a hotel. Nea Metropolis Hotel is located next to an old building from the early 20th century. Cost 144 Eat for 3 nights for two, breakfast included. The room is very strange - you can see traces of redevelopment, and most importantly - the recent extension of the bathroom, just built a box of drywall in which placed these amenities, very narrow, and a step above floor level.

Yes, by the way, in all rooms.

What was here before is a mystery to me. Probably a few multi-room apartments that were redesigned at the time.

Breakfast is unique - a restaurant on the top floor. At the entrance, a hotel employee sprays disinfectant on everyone's hands, then gives disposable cellophane gloves. You can only take products from them. And so - breakfast is quite good: a buffet with a wide selection of cheeses, ham, pastries, jams. Of the vegetables and fruits, only olives are available. Separately - about honey. On small packages it is written that it is floral, but to taste - 100% buckwheat. We are in Greece! "Yes, they are Greek"!

After the settlement we go in the direction of the sea (about 500 m). Why do I write "in the direction of the sea" and not in the direction of the beach? The fact is that in Athens, the entire embankment is locked in concrete and the descent to the water is not a word at all. Beaches start just outside the airport (towns of Perea, Agia Triadi, etc. - about 14 km from the city).

There were plans to sail there by boat, but, according to locals, after the storm on October 14 (and in Thessaloniki it was also significant), these flights were canceled.

We go to the waterfront near the Old Port. There is now a modern art space with museums, galleries, fashion clubs, etc. Then we walk along the promenade to one of the main business cards of the city - the White Tower. The length of the promenade is 2 km, it is built as old houses in the Art Deco style, and modern antique, and just modern. It looks something like this:

But all that unites them is the total presence of restaurants, cafes and taverns on the ground floors! Cafes continue on the perpendicular streets. I have never seen so many places where you can dine with sea views, even in Nice or Barcelona!

By the way, there are no hotels, they are all located far from the sea. Souvenirs are also quite far from the waterfront.

Regarding the embankment is the central and largest square of the city - Aristotle Square:

The region of Greece, the capital of which is Thessaloniki - is called Macedonia. It was through the name that the dispute between Greece and the Republic of Macedonia continued for almost three decades.

As a result, the Greeks achieved their goal - they forced the Republic of Macedonia to change its name to the Republic of Northern Macedonia. There is also a berth near the White Tower, from where two boats depart for a 30-minute cruise in the Gulf - one of them stylized as the ancient Greek ship "Argo" and the other as a boat "Kon-Tiki" by the famous T. Heyerdahl. Interestingly, there is no fixed ticket price - you need to order something on board. We sailed on the Argo, they had cheaper Greek coffee "Frappe" and hot chocolate (6 euros each).

I will not say about the prices for "Kon-Tiki", but they had a note on the billboard that if you do not order anything - the cost of the trip is 4 euros. However, Kon-Tiki operates far fewer flights than Argo.

The last flights of the ships take place around 7 pm, when the traditional magical sunset begins:

One day we decided to visit St. Demetrius Cathedral. From our hotel go 20 minutes: first up the street. Siggrou to the intersection with st. Olimpou, turn to the last right and walk until you see small green meadows on both sides - the one that will be the Roman Forum ...

...and what is higher - St. Demetrius Park. For this short distance you will see real non-tourist Thessaloniki.

Well, behind the park of St.

St. Demetrius' Cathedral itself appears.

From the middle, the Cathedral is impressive:

Contemporary painting:

Ancient frescoes:

For fans of shopping in German (LiDL stores, of course), you can continue the "vertical", and walking down the street. Agious Nikolau (St. Nicholas) to the street. Olimpiados and go to the LiDL store. But I warn you - to go up quite steeply. For lovers of alcoholic beverages, right in front of LidL there is a branded liquor store Olimpiados, but we did not visit the latter. Lidl hit ice cream at € 0.14 per 65 g and Greek Risini at € 0.95 / kg. For spilling in Ukraine, similar ones cost UAH 32 per 0.4 kg: - (

Shopping in Greece, after all, played a nasty heat on us, at the baggage check at Thessaloniki airport our luggage weighed 24 kg instead of the allowed 20.

Four extra kg. commission - the write-off was exactly two sums).

But the positive impressions of the trip were not affected, you just need to be a little more careful. The return flight took off and landed without delay (16:55 - 19:05), taking off noting that part of the runway was built on a washed-out peninsula strongly protruding into the sea (thinking, similar only to the Portuguese Madeira). Impressions of the trip to Greece (despite the current realities) are only positive, of course, lost some unproven, which will eventually be eliminated by new travels.

Translated automatically from Ukrainian. View original