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Millions of Lights in Hong Kong

27 May 2008 • Travel time: with 28 May 2005 on 09 June 2005
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Millions of Lights in Hong Kong

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Where did we get

Writing about Hong Kong is difficult. For those who have not been there, it often appears as a city - a legend, something fantastic, beyond.

For those who were lucky enough to see it, this city evokes a whole range of feelings - from admiration to disappointment, from surprise to irritation.

But, I think, no one remains indifferent to this modern miracle.

In my opinion, there is no other place on Earth where on several patches of land, ninety percent occupied by mountains, located in an area that has collected most of the "gifts of nature" - earthquakes, tsunamis, typhoons, storms, places where, with almost one hundred percent humidity and sweltering heat , one of the richest cities in the world has arisen and flourishes, a place where Europe and America are mixed with Asia, where, with a frantic pace of life, ancient Chinese traditions are preserved and protected.


Personally, after this trip, I still have the main feeling - admiration and admiration for the Man - the Man who created all this - skyscrapers, tunnels, bridges, man-made islands and canals.

Of course, much of it is far from ideal, very much. The life of a simple city dweller is incredibly difficult. But where is this ideal? Does he really exist?

Those Europeans, mostly English, who were born and raised in Hong Kong are no longer quite Europeans. This is a new community of people, a nationality, which the local Chinese call "gwailo". After the transfer of Hong Kong to China in 1997, many of them returned to their "historical homeland" and there they discovered that they and the local population are far from the same thing, that their mentality is different and European culture, in its modern form, they alien.

And the stream was pulled in the opposite direction.

What about the indigenous population? They are no longer quite Chinese, but also something else.

This is what happened from mixing two seemingly incompatible cultures. And it is impossible not to admit that the child born from this grows healthy and strong.

Today, Hong Kong has the highest economic growth rate in the world.

In terms of currency reserves, it is in third place. In 2000, they amounted to about 104 billion dollars, not counting gold, and this is with seven million inhabitants. A high standard of living is ensured by the status of a duty-free port. There is also a huge number of banks and investment companies. There is a bank for every 3.000 inhabitants. The largest international exhibitions and fairs are held annually in Hong Kong. For business people, this is an opportunity to conclude profitable contracts.

Almost sixty percent of Chinese exports pass through Hong Kong. What is the amount you can imagine, looking into almost any store in the world.

I would like to tell you about everything - about the Chek Lap Kung International Airport, about the Ocean Park, about the Big Buddha, about the street of escalators, about the world's largest complex of suspension bridges - each object is unique.


It so happened that we ended up in Hong Kong during the meeting of the Chinese New Year and participation in the holiday together with the townspeople helped to look a little deeper into local life, to see it not only through the eyes of a tourist, but also, as it were, a little from the inside.

It seemed to me that the Chinese, due to their huge number - almost one and a half billion people, perceive us, representatives of a different race, as an exception to the rule. In my opinion, they sincerely believe that the rest of the world is a kind of natural mutation. And right there, nearby - European culture - exhibitions, opening days, concerts, huge shopping centers, elegantly dressed people. All this rests on a solid foundation - ancient Chinese traditions and oriental mysticism.

After the transfer of Hong Kong to China in 1997, almost nothing has changed in the life of this country. Yes, countries, not cities.

Located in the southeast of the PRC, the "free economic zone" Hong Kong consists of two large islands - Hong Kong and Lantau, the Kowloon Peninsula, which passes into the territory of the PRC, and about two hundred small islands, overlooking the South China Sea, which passes into the Pacific Ocean.

Once upon a time, not so long ago, almost until the middle of the nineteenth century, these places were famous for pirate raids, and the islands served as permanent or temporary shelters for filibusters and, perhaps, until now, treasures hidden by pirates are waiting for their former owners.

In addition, at that time this area was considered the main transshipment base, where the drugs that the British exported from the interior of India were exchanged with the Chinese for silver, porcelain and tea. Chinese emperors tried to save their subjects.

But the old powerful Europe outstripped them.

Having won the "Opium War", the British "rented" Hong Kong by force for up to 99 years. Probably, the real goal was still the accession of another colony to the British Empire.

In 1997, the administration of the "special zone" of Hong Kong quite civilized passed to China. Thus, this place has become part of the "Great Earth", while, for now, retaining its status.


There is a guarded border between the PRC and Hong Kong, which requires a visa to cross, mainly for Chinese citizens.

Hong Kong has its own government, coat of arms, flag, laws, currency and complete economic independence.

The Chinese population on both sides perceived this association with great enthusiasm - the Hong Kongers, who had not yet experienced the "charms" of communist rule, rejoiced at their independence and reunification with their brothers, while the PRC received a "goldfish" - a local analogue of the "hen laying golden eggs".

So far, the Chinese authorities, although they keep it on a leash, but the net is spacious enough for this "fish" to swim freely.

Almost at the same time, another "tenant", Portugal, handed over the city of Macao with the adjacent territories to the PRC. It is only sixty kilometers in a straight line from Hong Kong or an hour by ferry.

Macau is the Asian version of Las Vegas, the gambling center of the entire Far East. Shortly before the transfer of the city to the control of the PRC, an American businessman obtained a gambling license from the Chinese government and, having leased large tracts of land, built and continues to build hotels and casinos. It is expected that after the completion of this construction, the number of casino visitors and tourists will surpass its American counterpart.

Currently, the "Great Land" is fighting for sovereignty over another island and the independent state of Taiwan, also a kind of "goldfish".

The Internet site of the Hong Kong Tourism Authority is made in several languages, including Russian and, in the person of Jackie Chan, a local living legend, provides a list of all kinds of information, as well as a complete schedule of New Year's festive events.

What many imagine as the city of Hong Kong - a forest of mirror high-rise buildings on the seashore - is actually the northern part of the island of Hong Kong and is called in English the city of Victoria, like the island itself, and in Chinese - the city of Hong Kong.


The building density here is so high due to the scarcity and, as a result, the high cost of land, that this place is called the "Hong Kong forest".

The opposite, southern, side of the island, facing the South China Sea, has a completely different look.

Forests descending from the mountains and reaching the very coast, small towns, judging by their appearance, with far from poor residents, and along the sea coast fishing villages stuck to the mountains, more like an attraction for tourists. There are also amusement parks, and fashionable restaurants, such as the four-story ship "Jumbo", which is illuminated in a special way in the evening so that it is impossible to describe this fantastic spectacle in words.

Opposite the northern part of the island, on the other side of the Victoria Strait, a cape protrudes into the sea - part of the Kowloon Peninsula, with the city of the same name, which, together with Hong Kong, forms a single metropolis with a common infrastructure.

Here, on the southern point of the peninsula, there is actually the tourist part of Hong Kong - the beginning of the famous "Golden Mile", passing further to Mong - Kuk - the night market area, where you can find almost everything.

Lands north of the city of Kowloon, up to the very border with China, are occupied by "New Territories" - the country's agricultural regions. From the time of the transition of these places under the control of the British in 1897, the countdown of the "lease" period actually began. The second large island - Lantau - is a national park, a holiday destination with numerous small towns, quiet bays and lush evergreen forests. When you are here, on Lantau, it is hard to believe that the largest metropolis, the city of the future, China of the 21st century, is seething nearby.

But miracles are very close, much closer than it seems.

Miracle one

So, the first man-made miracle is the Hong Kong Chek Lap Kung International Airport.


The airport has been holding the title of one of the best in the world for several years in terms of passenger amenities, infrastructure and a number of other criteria. This is evidenced by public opinion polls conducted among 5.5 million respondents in 90 countries.

The airport complex is the pinnacle of engineering and its implementation in extreme climatic conditions.

The island where Chek Lap Kung is located is the first and so far the only child of neighboring Lantau. The child almost closely adjoins his father and is poured completely from his soil.

Work on the creation of this artificial island continued for three years, around the clock and continuously.

Chek Lap Kung International Airport received its first passengers in 1998. Today it is one of the largest in Asia and in the world.

The huge passenger terminal building, runways and all airport services, including giant computerized cargo warehouses, are located on this artificial island.

The terminal itself resembles the letter H in plan, where in one vertical there are arrivals and departures halls, shops, cafes and restaurants, sleeves for passages to aircraft adjoin the other vertical rack, and in the horizontal, underground, there is an internal railway track, which is completely electronically controlled, including driverless trains. The terminal building is covered with a single structure in the form of arches so that, if necessary, it is possible to completely change the internal layout without affecting the external coating and the supporting frame.

But everything that is located on the island is only part of the complex.

The airport is connected to downtown Hong Kong by a new multi-lane highway and the Airport Express high-speed rail line, built as part of the same project.

For the transition from the island of Lantau to the "mainland" - Kowloon, two suspension bridges were built - Kap Shu Mun and Ting Cau - two-level - the upper floor is for cars, the lower one is for trains. The complex of these bridges is currently the largest in the world.


The same project includes a tunnel under the Victoria Strait, through which cars go directly to the commercial center of Hong Kong, and a high-speed train, passing the same tunnel, only one floor below, arrives at the Airport Express underground railway station, located under the 86-story the sky-blue skyscraper of the World Trade Center, the fifth tallest in the world.

When, having flown almost the entire Asian continent, we landed, and, having passed the connecting ladder, went directly to the airport passenger terminal building, the first thing that caught my eye was its sterile cleanliness.

Mirrored floors glittered, columns and walls made of tinted aluminum and stainless steel shone and shimmered. The way to the train was shown by smiling Chinese women in red uniforms.

The platform is separated from the rails by a transparent wall with glass doors so that while waiting, you can glance at the illuminated advertisements on the opposite wall.

The train arrived almost immediately, the driver's cab, although there was one, was empty. A minute to land, the doors of the cars are closing and, at the same time, the glass doors on the platform, the train picks up speed sharply and two minutes later we are already in the main terminal building.

Trees of delicate pinkish color are decorated with ribbons and lots of notes. Here it is something like a Christmas tree. Chinese people in red national robes walk through the halls - young people earning money by distributing advertising.

Everything is very polite, unobtrusive, with a smile, and not artificially sugary, but quite natural. First of all, we need to inform home about our arrival. The telephone set is unusual. Here is the phone itself, and fax, and the Internet, and many other unfamiliar services.

On the platform of the high-speed train Airport Express - there are also various machines, but there is also a cash desk - a rarity in this electronic world. A ticket to the Hong Kong end station is quite expensive - about 100 Hong Kong dollars (HK$), but when buying two tickets, we already pay 80 each. , there is a free bus from Hong Kong station, the route of which passes almost near our hotel. He makes a detour of several hotels along a certain route.

From Hong Kong station there are three such routes - each serves a certain group of hotels, and from the previous Kowloon station - seven.


There is a rather wide passage in the center of the car, and, on both sides, there are two chairs, and up to the middle of the car they are directed in one direction, and then in the opposite direction. A TV is mounted in the back of each seat. Passengers are offered six programs here, one of which is a video guide to the city with the obligatory Jackie Chan, the face and calling card of the Hong Kong Tourism Authority.

Finally, the train started moving and, gaining a speed of about 200 km per hour, rushed towards one of the largest and richest cities in the world.

Having jumped across the bridge to Lantau Island, we saw a group of high-rise, about forty floors, of the same type, panel houses. It was a city built along with a new airport - Tung Chung.

Near each apartment during construction, concrete boxes were prepared for the installation of air conditioners. Near the houses, in the yards - small trees and benches. But at the same time, the buildings as a whole give the impression of some neglect, even when viewed from a train rushing at high speed.

We passed both suspension bridges along the lower tier, in the tunnel, and crossed the small island of Tsung Yu, with the city of the same name. Here is the first stop of the express.

Another small bridge over the Rambley Canal and here we are on the Kowloon Peninsula.

Tidy industrial buildings, multi-story garages swept past - this was the area adjacent to the seaport.

The Kowloon station is underground and, having entered the tunnel in front of it, the train no longer rose to the surface, but continued its movement under the Victoria Strait.

The luminous strip of electronic circuitry above the car doors was rapidly shrinking, indicating that we were approaching the main station of the Airport Express line - Hong Kong Station.

A huge underground terminal with an obligatory New Year's pinkish tree in the center, many transitions and exits. However, thanks to a clear and user-friendly information system, we quickly found a place to board the bus.

Our route number two, the bus is small, comfortable, with shelves for luggage, easy chairs and a TV. One problem - he does not bring directly to our hotel, but stops not far from it, near the Hong Kong Convention Centre..

The bus leaves the surface and merges into the stream of cars moving along a wide multi-lane avenue lined with high-rise buildings.


Today is a pre-holiday day, but a working day, and, apparently, shortened.

Bus stops are overcrowded.

Double-decker buses and trams, also double-decker, move one after the other, almost in tail. But there are no special traffic jams, since the avenue is wide enough and has special lanes for buses, taxis, trams and private transport.

The movement is left-handed, as a legacy from the British, the cars are mostly new, the latest models, many German ones - Mercedes, BMW, Audi ..

Our stop is the last one on the route and the driver, taking pity, took us right to the entrance to the hotel, where the suitcases were immediately reloaded onto a cart and then we saw them already in our room.

Introduction to Hong Kong service

We were greeted by a huge, marble-lined hall with magnificent lighting and an obligatory New Year's tree at the entrance.

Several people are constantly in the registration day and night and, if necessary, they replace each other.

In the future, when we were just approaching the counter to take or give the key to the room, one of the clerks immediately ran to the exact point where we should have come to prevent us from taking an extra step. Right there, in the lobby, there are bellboys, ready to carry suitcases, call a taxi or provide other services.

. The window in the room overlooked the courtyard formed by the hotel and neighboring skyscrapers, in the glass lining of which our room was also reflected. Trying to see the sky, I even lay down on the floor, but apart from the mirrored walls going up, I didn’t see anything.

The courtyard is perfectly clean, in the corner there are four garbage cans, each of a different color, for different types of waste.

In general, a "window overlooking the trash heap", only in a positive, Hong Kong version.

Despite the fact that our hotel belonged to the category of three stars, the service in it was at least at the level of four, by European standards.


In general, the Hong Kong service deserves a very high rating. This applies not only to hotels, but also to numerous restaurants, shopping centers and even night markets.

For this first evening, we had an event called "Symphony of Light" planned.

Hong Kong's Symphony of Light laser show has entered the Guinness Book of Records as "the largest permanent light and sound show in the world. "

Every evening, thousands of people, mostly tourists, gather on the boardwalk of the Kowloon Peninsula, located directly opposite the center of Hong Kong, to watch this unusual spectacle.

The view from here to the "forest" of Hong Kong's high-rise buildings is magnificent, both in sunlight and at night. This is also the best place to watch the laser show, which is presented on the roofs and walls of twenty Hong Kong skyscrapers in the business center of the city.

In addition, viewers can tune their radios to a special waveform that plays music that matches the mood of episodes of the show.

Gradually, the color scheme changes, and laser beams from the roofs of skyscrapers write out bizarre patterns in the sky. These lights are reflected in the sea water.

Huge cruise liners, brightly lit, slowly sail through the strait, small pleasure ships rush by, almost all made in the Chinese style - bright, mostly red and gold, coloring, upturned roof edges and a sea of ​ ​ \u200b\u200bcolorful Chinese lanterns.

A bit of geography

The city of Hong Kong, in English Victoria, where our residence was located, is a strip of land stretched in length and narrow in width on the island of the same name. Its entire middle part is occupied by mountains, the central point of which is Victoria Peak. Here is the most fashionable area.

There is also a shopping center, piers for ferries to local destinations and to Macau, the central bus station and many subway entrances.

Admiralty adjoins the Central area, the place where the main banks and business centers are concentrated, and further, in the continuation, the Wan Chai area, with a huge Convention Center complex protruding into the sea, opposite which we lived.


Parallel to the strait, along the island, a subway line stretches. According to the area where it passes, the stations are also named.

A little about Hong Kong footbridges

This refers to pedestrian crossings through the main transport routes. They are almost everywhere above ground. Some of them can be climbed and descended by stairs directly from the sidewalk, but, for the most part, these bridges pass through buildings, in the lower floors of which there are either large shopping centers or just a few shops, restaurants and cafes.

It is connected to the peninsula and, accordingly, the city of Kowloon by two lines passing through underwater tunnels, further branching into several directions and covering the numerous residential areas of the peninsula.

Outlying districts operate a light rail system, a light rail system that connects MTR stations to the most remote residential buildings.

Kowloon also has lines of four railway companies leading through the "New Territories" to the border with China. The picture is complemented by double-decker buses and double-decker trams, which are really only on Hong Kong Island.

A distinctive feature of the MTR from other metros of the world is the numerous exits from the stations to the surface, the number of which sometimes reaches 10 - 15. They are indicated by a Latin letter and a number and, if possible, are as close as possible to the most important objects of the area.

If in any advertisement or information the name of the nearest metro station is given, then the exit number must be indicated.

Therefore, as it turned out later, although we lived in the Wan Chai area, exit E - 7 of the Admiralty station was best for us.

The design of the subway is quite simple, no frills. Going down the stairs, you find yourself in a large hall with many ticket machines of various types.

Here is the subway map. By pressing the button on it, indicating the desired station, you get full information about the journey and the ticket. There is also a mandatory computer with data on the area where the station is located and exit maps.


As in an airport, the platform is separated from the train by a glass wall with doors that open with the carriage doors.

Everything is very thought out, rational, simple and convenient.

"Golden Mile" - first impressions

The first part of it to Mong Kuk - the night market area, is the very famous *Golden Mile*.

It is named so because of the numerous jewelry stores located here. They also sell a lot of other things, mostly electronics.

On the first evening, to get to the phantasmagoric performance "Symphony of Light", we took the subway to the station "Tsim Tsa Tsui" and got off directly on Nathan Road.

"Golden Mile" immediately blinded and deafened. Lots of brightly lit shop windows. Moreover, in order to increase the display area of ​ ​ goods, the windows are made at an angle to the street and go deeper. The entire upper space between the houses is given over to illuminated advertising.

Signboards leave a place in height only for the passage of double-decker buses, and then go up several rows and it is even difficult to understand where they end.

But neon tubes and light bulbs are the last century here.

Most of the advertisements are flat laser screens from the size of an ordinary TV to huge, the size of a multi-storey building.

All this "light music", as well as a lot of bright Chinese lanterns, dazzles immediately upon exiting the subway.

And deafening - cars, buses moving almost in the tail of each other, a lot of pedestrians, the soundtrack of advertisements on the screens, shouts of barkers - and they stand at almost every store, but not one at a time and they are mostly not Chinese, but Indians.

The combination of light and sound creates an indescribable, magical picture.

But the Golden Mile isn't just Nathan Road.

Shops, bars, cafes and restaurants fill the surrounding streets and numerous lanes.

Returning to the metro after the show "Symphony of Light", we went to the left of Nathan Road, towards the passenger sea terminals of international lines. They are united by a complex of hotels under the common name "Marco Polo" and below, underground, the shopping center "Harbor City".


From the side of the Kowloon boardwalk is its main entrance. It is a long gallery dominated by bright red and golden colors. Huge Chinese lanterns and clusters of luminous bulbs hang from the ceiling.

The shopping center itself is a system of wide branching corridors, on both sides of which there are shops of the most famous companies.

It is easy to get lost in this labyrinth, which we successfully did in search of a way out. Once outside, on a boulevard with tall palm trees entwined with clusters of luminous multi-colored light bulbs, we headed towards the subway on Nathan Road, passing three more streets parallel to the main one, also filled with shops and decorated with a sea of ​ ​ colored lanterns.

Despite the late hour, life was in full swing on the Golden Mile. Blinding and deafening Nathan Road. continued to work in the same rhythm.

Ocean Park - the second miracle

From the news - "5.

5 billion Hong Kong dollars is planned to be allocated for the reconstruction of the Ocean Park in Hong Kong. After the renovation, it will become one of the world's greatest theme parks. The work will be completed by 2010, by which time the number of entertainment is planned to double. The park manager stated that the purpose of the expansion is not to compete with Disneyland. These entertainment complexes have a different focus and complement each other. "

Disneyland opened in early September 2005, a year ahead of schedule. Built to international standards for such parks, it is also based on the principles of Feng Shui, like most businesses in Hong Kong.

Ocean Park is the best example of how things are done in a big way in Hong Kong.

Even now, before reconstruction, the Ocean Park is also one of the largest theme parks in the world, and considering that in addition to the main theme of the name, the Hong Kong park has a section of the history and traditions of China, one of a kind. From the bus station in the Central area and from the metro station Admiralty, express buses leave directly to the main entrance, and the fare includes the cost of a ticket to the park.


After making its way through traffic jams on the main streets of Hong Kong, the bus turns right and enters the Aberdeen Tunnel, which cuts through the mountain range in the center of the island and exits on the opposite side of it.

The place near the entrance to the tunnel is called the Valley of Happiness and is famous for the fact that there is a giant hippodrome here. The Chinese are considered gambling people and it is quite difficult to get here during the races. For one such day, up to forty thousand bets are made.

Here visitors are in for a surprise - for some it's a joke, but for some it's not.

As you make your way to the exit through the ancient forest, a dinosaur suddenly appears from behind the trees. He, of course, is not real, but the unexpectedness of his appearance, steam from his mouth, wild howling and the like can scare not only children.

Down here, next to the Dinosaur House, there is a very interesting Butterfly House. It is made of a thick mesh and inside, between the trees, tropical butterflies of unprecedented beauty flutter.

Nearby is the same type of "House of Exotic Birds" and then the path, going uphill, leads to a small zoo.

The upper level can be reached by cable car. There are two parallel lines with continuous movement of wagons. The ascent is quite steep, but it is compensated by a magnificent view of the South China Sea with numerous green islands that seem uninhabited from afar.

Having risen to the top point and rounded the top of the mountain, the trailer begins to descend, but not for long, and soon arrives at the upper station.

Here, the Ocean Park Tower immediately catches the eye. It is a high pipe, on which a glazed wide ring of the observation deck is put on. Coming closer and seeing a long line, we decided not to linger here. How many people can lift the elevator at one time? So you can lose a lot of time. And there are so many more interesting things ahead.

But suddenly the huge structure of the observation deck began to slowly sink down, sliding along the trunk of the tower and at the same time turning around its axis.

The whole queue almost in full force fit into this flying saucer-like cockpit of the observation deck. And she immediately began to climb up.


The views unfolding before us as we climbed were even more breathtaking than those from the cable car.

The rotation of the structure around its axis made it possible to see not only the sea with islands, but also the entire southern part of Hong Kong Island - green forests, small fishing villages, towns and villas hidden in the greenery. After standing for five minutes at the top, the "Flying Saucer" began to descend, giving us the opportunity to once again enjoy the magnificent panoramas.

The next attraction is the dolphinarium, where every hour there are performances with the participation of these animals.

Going down a chain of several escalators with a total length of 225 meters, you find yourself in a completely different part of the park, which is called the "Thousand-Year History of China".

The palaces of the Chinese emperors of past centuries and the buildings of the most famous Buddhist monasteries are recreated here in full size. There are also small Chinese restaurants, many of which prepare dishes according to old recipes.

In addition, in the same corner of the park there is a Japanese rock garden and a building with large aquariums in frames, as if in an art gallery. All this against the backdrop of an unusual combination of green and pink trees and the turquoise sea. At this time, a folklore performance was held here. A dancer in a long red robe rushed across the stage. Sometimes this was done with music. The assembled local public reacted violently, expressing their delight.

Having finished the dance, the artist began to throw red paper bags into the crowd. Spectators rushed to pick them up, knocking each other down, trying to grab as many as possible. We also got one. It contained a small chocolate bar. As I found out later, this is one of the New Year traditions.

At the top level, we visited the shark aquarium. It represents a corridor in the form of a transparent pipe, and there is water around. When sharks frolic around you - and from above, and from below, and from the side, it becomes a little uncomfortable.


The next object is the aquarium. It is arranged in such a way. In the center of the hall there is a glass cylinder filled with water, in which a wide variety of fish swim. A wide ramp stretches around the aquarium, descending in a spiral downwards so that at the end of the path, you are at the level of the bottom of the cylinder. So gradually you can look at the fish living at different depths.

We spent almost the whole day in the Ocean Park, but we were not able to see all its attractions. "Water World" - an atoll reef, an ocean theater, "World of Adventures" - something like an amusement park and an attraction "The Secret of the Lost Temple" remained until the next time.

New Year's parade - the third miracle

This parade is traditionally held in Hong Kong on the eve of the Chinese Lunar New Year.

The spectacle is unusual - you will not find anything like it in the world. There are elements of Brazilian carnivals and traditional evening parades at Disneyland.

Ahead of each group of participants in the parade was a car, fantastically decorated and colored with the lights of thousands of light bulbs and Chinese lanterns.

He was followed by a small cart with a recording of the musical accompaniment of this column, and the parade participants dressed in colorful costumes followed the man with the cart.

Translated automatically from Russian. View original
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