With football in the world *
It was a normal working day on August 12.2019. I, as always, went to work. When on the way between the house and the public transport stop, a fluffy completely white cat suddenly ran across the road… I don't think I consider myself a superstitious man and I don't have a great reverence for cats, but somehow my soul became restless. Running cats in front of me is always for some reason related to solving non-existent problems…
A few hours later, on the same day, I received an e-mail from UEFA's official website informing me that I had won flowers for 2 matches of the EURO 2020 final round in Bilbao.
I will explain at once: tickets for the match for free sale were not officially available at the box office, 50% of tickets were played among fans according to the submitted applications, and the other 50% were distributed among European federations, sponsoring companies, etc. … At that time the qualifying tournament was still in full swing, most of the participating teams are still unknown, in which of the participating cities will play the national team of Ukraine was also unknown. The joy, of course, knew no bounds, he had already begun making plans for a trip along the Atlantic coast of northern Spain, which he planned to combine with watching football matches. One thing was bothering me - a cat (even a white one) is a very cunning animal, and the way to get tickets and travel to Spain will not be so easy…
… 17.03. In 2020, UEFA decided to carry over EURO 2020 to June 2021. Tickets, at the request of fans, could be reimbursed in full, or also transferred.
I chose the transfer.
… 22.04. In 2021, it was decided to move the EURO 2020 matches from Bilbao to Seville. All tickets were canceled and their owners were promised to send a link to buy tickets on the eve of the matches. An important feature: due to the fight against the coronavirus, the filling of stadiums had to be regulated by local authorities. But UEFA's requirement is to allow at least 25% occupancy. Sevilla confirmed exactly 25%. Given that the number of people who saved tickets for Bilbao matches was unknown, it was a real "draw" - if the number of ticket holders exceeded the approved by the local government occupancy of the stadium, then according to the lottery, tickets.
… 04.05.
2021 on one of the profile tourist sites (in the section where football fans are inclined to travel) there was information that the UEFA website is selling tickets for the match of the Hungarian national team (2 in Budapest, 1 in Munich), but the average person can not buy gave-required promo code. The promo code was apparently sent through the Hungarian Football Federation.
… 12.05. In 2021, on the same website, one of the fans shared a promo code for the match of the national team of Slovakia. Buy a ticket for the match 23.06 Spain-Slovakia in Seville (for 50 E) was a matter of minutes.
Starting to consider options for getting to Spain - because the country remained closed to tourism for citizens of other countries. Rumors have been circulating that football fans will have some benefits at the entrance.
05 I go to the Central Railway Station, where I buy a ticket for the train Kyiv - Vienna (to Budapest, 2307 UAH).
… 01.06.
2021 I learn that Spain for the entry of foreigners from 07.06 introduces the so-called. "Traffic light" - ie the division of European countries into colored zones depending on the level of coronavirus. That is, the Spaniards now care not about the country of which you are a citizen, but from which country you go to them. Hungary is steadily green for Spain. Travelers from "green countries" have enough negative PCR test not earlier than 48 hours and completed FCS-questionnaire.
… 02.06. In 2021 I pay for tickets for the match, 15.06 and 19.06 (the seller turned out to be honest, selling for face value, the transfer cost 220 UAH, the tickets themselves for 30 euros each). Everything, the preparation is over, you can prepare for the trip…
There were also plans to get to the match of the national team of Ukraine in Bucharest, but firstly no one offered extra tickets, and secondly, you could get to Bucharest only with transfers in the officially closed to Italy, well, or by car .
And Wizzair Sevilla - Bucharest flights were also postponed to the end of summer.
So, on June 14, I board the Kyiv-Vienna train, when boarding the conductors check only the singing of the falling letters near the ticket and the passport. The last time I traveled abroad from Ukraine by train was in 2008, a lot has changed since then. Triple JVs have remained, but now compartments are divided into women's and men's. I rode alone in my compartment, there were no companions. Three-seater compartment, all shelves one above the other. Conveniences: washbasin under the folding table, wardrobe with hangers, light switch, unopened window. The car was about 60% full.
In addition to Ukrainians, there were many travelers from other countries: Austria, Romania, Turkey, Colombia. Our car was connected several times to different trains (Kyiv-Ivano-Frankivsk, Lviv - Chop, Chop - Zakhon, Zakhon - Budapest, Budapest - Vienna). Despite this, we arrive in Chop on schedule at 01:42.
The car is driven to a special section, where the wheels are changed to the European track. At the same time, public services are doing their job: first Ukrainian customs officers (asked for the purpose of the trip, asking to open luggage, but did not copy the speeches, without supporting documents), then Ukrainian border guards, who first confiscated and then handed over passports. Then a short train - we are already at the Hungarian station Zá hony. The Hungarian border guard asked the purpose and the final destination, just in case, showing the tickets on the phone ...
...and the border guard stamped his passport.
Then the Hungarian customs officer asked how much alcohol and cigarettes I carry (I don't smoke at all, but who goes to Hungary with their alcohol? : -).
And one passenger from the next compartment was unlucky - she was going to Vienna, according to her she had a residence permit in Austria, but according to the Hungarian border guard, land transit through Hungary bans (on 15.06 - as I do not know now). She was taken out of the car and the border guard said that she would be sent to Ukraine by the next train. Another three hours drive and at 08:40 I am already in Budapest in the morning, at the Keleti station. My Baross City Hotel (€ 208 for 5 nights with breakfast) is just 400 meters from the train station. Despite the early hour, no questions populate. At the settlement they require a vaccination certificate or a negative PCR test (the test I did in Kyiv on the eve of departure, for UAH 850 (Medalabs, work 7 days a week, the result is 8 hours after delivery, translated into English).
The hotel occupies two upper floors near a large old residential building (or residential complex) with a courtyard, a panoramic elevator, and a gallery around the perimeter of the floor, where it is convenient to smoke and look out on other people's windows: - (
Hotel pleasure, cleaned daily, towels and linen are changed every 2 days, breakfast is good. The only drawback - every day around 6 am to take out the house garbage and wake everyone up with a terrible crash. But I'm not used to it, the same thing happens to me every day near my house in Kyiv: - (Kyiv. ), 3 hours before the match I go to the stadium.
Fans of the Hungarian national team (several thousand people, different ages), but in traditional T-shirts with the Hungarian flag on a black background, with songs and flags of Hungary, a column on the roadway, accompanied by police go to the stadium, singing fan songs and fans speeches. Smoke bombs with green, white and red smoke are lit (according to the Hungarian flag), the police walk by and do not detain anyone.
In front of the stadium (walk about 1 km, or take 1 metro stop) I have to go on a quest to get a paper bracelet to enter the stadium. I find a delivery point 300 meters away, between the market and the exhibition center, they need a passport and a test, the dream paper wrist tape I got without any problems. At the stadium queues, things are checked with a metal detector, people are passed through the frame.
Any drinks are selected (in the store a 0.5 liter bottle of water costs 49 forints, in the stadium cafeteria 790 forints. Feel the difference. Also 790 HUF 0.5 liters of draft Coca-Cola or 0.5 liters of draft beer). Instead, at the security stadium at least (maybe it's all in civilian clothes? ). The stadium impresses with its size and the huge area between the fence and the stands ...
...on which are sculptural compositions depicting people of different professions. Something reminded our NVC / ENEA.
Useful life hack: the stadium has columns with drinking water, you can take with you and carry on the podium. According to locals, water in Hungary from any tap can be drunk without boiling. I drank. All right. There are souvenir outlets near the stands (payment only by payment card), cash is available in the stadium buffet.
In front of the stands, a smartphone with a ticket must be attached to a special turnstile with a validator.
Everything, finally I'm in the stands. The ticket went to the Portuguese national team fans, the middle of the lower tier, the view is normal:
There are fans with flags of different countries, ours is also in the case:
Portuguese footballers are warming up right under our sector.
CR7:
Before the start of each match, there was a performance with the participation of volunteers who displayed the EURO emblem and the flags of the playing teams on the field. We didn't show it on TV, including advertising for these 2 minutes on TV: - (.
Before the match, the anthems of the playing teams were traditionally performed. The words of the anthem were broadcast on the scoreboard of the stadium at that time in the appropriate language.
In the Portuguese sector, the fans were of different ages (25-50 years), there were many young couples and families with children, all cheerful, non-aggressive.
Many sang Portuguese songs, at a time when the Hungarian ultras behind the opposite gates created a "modular show" (labeled one of the pages of Hungarian history), the Portuguese unfurled a huge flag of their country (covering almost the entire sector):
Budapest is the only city in EURO 2020 that has taken 100% of the seats in the stadium. Football in a crowded stadium is something incredible, the last time I experienced similar emotions at EURO 2012 in Kyiv.
After the game, everyone left peacefully, I did not notice any excesses, although a handful of fans from different countries passed very close.
The next three days, which separated the two matches, I spent in Budapest walking around a very hot city (33 - 35 C) and resting on the island of Margitt. I did not visit museums (did not plan). The island impressed. Both in size and cleanliness and service.
It is difficult to compare with our "Hydropark". Some photos from the island:
There are many vacationers and police on the island. This is not surprising, because the island has a very cool spa hotel:
There is even a small theater (in the former water tower):
Complex of swimming pools (from time to time there are European and World Championships in water sports, but now vacationers are allowed only with a vaccination passport).
Entrance 1000 HUF, payment only by card, all additional services in the pool - also by payment card:
There are many cafes and restaurants on the island. Each of them has a large TV, which broadcasts football matches.
The island also has a small private zoo.
I never understood whether it was a stork or a crane:
And here is an essential photo from Budapest, his business card:
The Hungarians under the Euro apparently decided to carry out a major overhaul of the city, many things were repaired. In particular, the famous Lancid Bridge, the Fisherman's Bastion and several Budapest metro stations. Of course, the access of tourists is closed. But even without that, the city has a lot of interesting architecture.
The symbols of EURO 2020 are found in many places:
Even Unicum is not left out:
One day, walking to Varoschliget Park (30 minutes walk from my hotel), part of it was converted into a fan zone.
In the middle of the day it is completely empty, only the volunteers wander aimlessly:
The fan zone comes to life only in the middle of the evening, when the matches start broadcasting.
Now about another match. Hungary played France. I was in the French sector. The impression from the French is worse - in the sector of young people under 25, mostly intoxicated. When the French missed a goal - their fans started throwing plastic glasses of beer in different directions, splashing everyone around as soon as the French scored - throwing again when the final whistle sounded - again the same. Nobody makes remarks to anyone.
The Portuguese did not behave like that.
Due to the intense heat (apparently by British standards), English referee Michael Oliver interrupted the match several times. So that footballers can quench their thirst with water:
The Hungary-Portugal match was refereed by the Turkish team (the main, legendary for Ukrainian football, Kuneit Chakir) and although the air temperature was equally hot (33-35 C), the match was not interrupted for this reason. Perhaps the Turks are more heat-resistant.
At the beginning of the match, the Hungarian Ultras no longer staged a modular show, but simply unfurled a huge banner with a portrait of the famous Hungarian coach Gustav Szebes, in which the Hungarian national team twice won the Olympic football tournament (1948 and 1952).
In the end, as you know, a draw 1:1. The French left the stadium gloomy, while the Hungarians, on the contrary, were very happy.
After all, the draw left their team chances at 1/8 (for this the Hungarians had to beat the Germans. They were close to that: - (.
Hungarian fans in ancient hussar costumes:
Budapest's architecture is excellent:
Signs are impressive:
A little about shopping in Budapest. Near the bus station Nepliget, opened a shopping center "West End", many boutiques and shops. I really liked S&A. Lots of quality speeches at reasonable prices. In Ukraine, this brand has no ideas.
I have long wanted to try Hungarian cognacs. In online stores (such as Tesco or LiDL are not represented). But on Rakosci Street (just behind the ALDI store, if you go towards the center from the station) found a small specialty liquor store. Order of prices: Hungarian brands Napoleon 4000 forints, Hungarian brand Lancid 10000 forints. There are no such drinks at the duty-free airport.
If anyone is interested. I had to take a PCR test twice in Budapest (the first time to get to the Hungary-France match, the second time to get on the Budapest-Sevilla flight. The fact is that my flight was on the evening of 20.06, and the buildings pre-match test 18).
06 was already invalid - because for Spain it is valid only for 48 hours, so I had to make a new one). Registration only via the Internet, various laboratories, it is difficult to make an appointment in the morning, the results are given in 20-24 hours, on Saturday almost all laboratories are closed, and 19.06 was just Saturday).
That's 20.06. I leave the hotel, go to the airport. The metro in Budapest is also partially under repair. Therefore, free buses run from Kalvin ter station to Kobanja Kispest station. And from Kobanja Kispest - the standard route number 200 to the airport.
