Eternal summer, but that's not all. Part three. South.

19 May 2023 Travel time: with 09 November 2022 on 09 December 2022
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I didn't prepare for this trip. I was told to pack up and fly, and there were so many organizational issues that I didn’t have time for entertainment-movement issues and the trip plan itself. She quickly asked something in the Bali chat and put some marks on the map, without really understanding it. The plan was already almost in flight.

And so we need to hide somewhere from the sun and eat somewhere in Bukit, and on my map there is just a mark not far from Padang-Padang beach, where we were going to go after lunch. The label is called Thomas Warung. Everyone knows what Warung is. Warung is a cafe where the food is tasty and inexpensive. Mostly locals eat there. But, if I have a mark on the map, then someone recommended this place to me. Without thinking twice, we take a taxi and go to this warung.

It's quite a long drive, there are probably a lot of eating establishments along the way, here we are passing a large NOURISH restaurant, but I don't know anything about them, and Thomas warung is a recommended place! ))

The first doubts crept into my mind when the driver stopped near the barrier and said that I had to go further on foot. It's a hundred degrees outside, no less, no shade at all, the sun is at its zenith. You have to go along a terrible road, in stones and pits. I ask Tanya not to go there, but to sit in some cafe right here (there is a whole street of different cafes and full of people everywhere), but Tanya asks the guards if Thomas Warung is far away and they answer that there are almost a couple of steps. Alice sleeps in Tanya's arms, I drag the stroller over the stones. And we've been going for quite some time. Finally, we see the warung. He is so modest and frail - a tiny house, a tiny terrace, dilapidated furniture. There is a sign, but no staff. We look at each other.

- Probably, the food here is very tasty - my daughter makes an assumption.

- Or the view is beautiful - I answer.

Varung is standing on the very cliff. At the bottom of the sea, near the path, running straight down. And no one))

We look around in confusion. Where is the food? Here two girls go up the path and explain to us that we definitely won’t go down with a stroller and a sleeping child, it’s not worth the risk. We ask where the warung itself is, they point to the hut and explain that this is not a cafe, but only a landmark of that secret path to a wonderful beach, hidden from everyone by rocks. That there is an incredible color of the sea and a wonderful snork.

Well, you understand, right? ) We left from there, not sipping salty, on the same stones, to the nearest cafe. They barely dragged the stroller in the heat.

I wanted to sit in a more decent-looking establishment, but there are so many people - both the hall and the terrace are packed, and Tanya chooses a modest cafe nearby where you can sit in the hall.

I'm always afraid of slipping, the whole staircase is wet.

Let's go to the beach.

Not Rio de Janeiro, but beautiful cliffs and gorgeous water override the bum style builds (toilet is terrible).

The sun has already become gentle, does not bake brutally and does not cause a desire to look for a shadow.

But, the shadow still comes, approaching from the side of the rocks.

Here we bathed the hardest, and there are no waves, and the depth is sufficient, and the sea is of sufficient turquoise.

And when we were going there, we were told that this beach is not for swimming, but to wander among the rocks, admire, take pictures. That the waves here are strong and you won’t go into the sea.

Perhaps we were at low tide, or maybe the experts got it wrong.

When it was already getting dark, we got into our kind taxi and drove to Sanur. In Sanur, the driver got lost, tried to squeeze into some narrow streets, eventually dropped us off among these stone jungles and took almost 800 thousand. By counter. This is more than the cost of a car with a driver for a whole day of driving around the island. I still can’t believe that I got so caught) I didn’t even take me to the place. It's good that I have the skill of orienteering in unfamiliar areas)

In pitch darkness, we turned on the navigator and flashlight, wandered through dead ends, then returned to the road and finally taxied to our hotel. A few meters before the gate, we notice a laundry. And we really needed it!

) Having found out that only fifteen minutes were left before the end of the working day, we ran home quickly and quickly to collect everything that we managed to get dirty during these days. When you have a small child, the mountain of dirty things grows very fast. Rain is coming. Alice categorically does not want to be friends with her grandmother, so Tanya also had to drag the stroller with her, wrapping her in a raincoat. Raincoats are indispensable in Bali.

And I happily sat down and smoked on the terrace until no one wrinkles their nose and drives me into the jungle)

We ordered dinner in the room, the downpour had already broken out in earnest, we didn’t want to go anywhere at all. Actually, not exactly in the room, but on a magnificent terrace, entwined with tropical plants. Above us, the gecko Toki sings its restless song. He is bigger than other geckos. And so cute... Until diarrhea attacks him)) He lives on the ceiling.

(photo from internet)

Toki gecko, very beautiful, very vocal, quite aggressive compared to other geckos, can bite if touched. Very agile and fast. Can jump far. Doesn't attack people. On the contrary, it is an excellent home protector in tropical climates. It protects against any insects, from mice and frogs, and even from snakes. Such a pet lives on its own, does not require any care, does not ask for anything. You don't need to feed him. Well, it can be embarrassing, as I wrote above, so human food cannot be left on the table. Some people even have geckos on purpose, build a terrarium for them, create a climate, a place for molting, etc. But it loses all meaning, in my opinion. A living toy is not at all the same as a free defender, is it?

I used to think that geckos have suction cups on their paws, which is why they stick to walls and ceilings so easily.

But it turned out to be incredible, some kind of space technology of billions of villi.

(photo from internet)

Also, they are badly affected by gravity, they feel calm both upside down and upside down. Maybe they are aliens? ))


The next day, Tanya was engaged in issuing a bank card and obtaining rights, and Alice and I went to pick her up as if tied.

On the way we went to the park, to the Taman Bermain Puputan playground (there are not so many playgrounds in Bali to ignore this) and to the Ikea store. The place is old, the store is small. For some reason there is no photo. We traveled by taxi. I can't say that taxis are cheap, but there is no alternative.

Here you need to either despair upon arrival and get on a bike, which is very dangerous, or look for buses that either run or not, it is not known where their stops are, and in principle there are so few of them that you can get to any one point in the city, and then a taxi. Or immediately taxi) There are no tuk-tuks, songteos, minibuses and other amenities in Bali. There are some local Bemos, I read about them on the Internet, but I have never seen them. They say that they also did not see a single tourist))

In principle, there are already buses in Bali. But everything is so unclear that it is difficult to figure it out. I found information that there is an application TEMAN BUS and you can find routes and stops there, but, unfortunately, I did not find such an application in the play store, although you can find and view it through a computer. Perhaps you can download it only by connecting to the Indonesian Internet.

In addition, the schedule still remained a mystery to me, I only found that I just need to wait, the bus will definitely arrive)

And we looked at the map and decided to walk to Kuta Beach.


If you are in the Ikea area and you want to walk to the beach (on the map there is a stone's throw), then keep in mind that there are no sidewalks along the way! No, at first they were and the yards were beautiful. And then they treacherously lured us to such places, from where neither there nor back.

You just grit your teeth and walk towards the wildly flying bikes and rare cars. I don’t care, I didn’t get into such ups and downs in Vietnam, but Tanya is with a stroller and it’s really scary.

On the way we see a beautiful pastoral, overshadowed by a pile of garbage that clings to plants near the shore.

My beloved Asia continues to be buried in garbage, unfortunately. Tanya wants to go home more and more ...

Finally, we get to the beach. It is not just littered, it is almost a complete garbage dump. I won't even show you a photo. It’s not even worth looking at this on a computer)

One thing to look at is the gate. This is the main entrance to the beach. Beautiful. But, the photo is not mine)

Tanya immediately even rushed to swim, but went to the water's edge and returned. You would have to walk into the water on floating debris. I don't know who settles in Kut and why. A dirtier beach is hard to imagine. Waves. And surfers. Well, they, apparently, are settling in Kuta. There is a great wave for beginners and a lot of surfer schools. Well, and youth parties.

Tanya really needs to buy a few clothes, she is attracted by the market, which is located right here on the beach, Alice sleeps in a stroller, and I sit down on a free chair.

A local comes up to me right away - the chair is paid)) Oh, God! In this "paradise" there are also paid chairs))

A lot of people gather on the beach, they are waiting for the sunset, and we are leaving, we still have to go to Sanur.

Here we should talk about taxis separately. There are several taxi services in Bali (from cheap to expensive):

  • inDrive
  • GoJek
  • Bluebird
  • Grab
  • Local taxi (these are those that sit along the roads and beckon - taxi, taxi . . )
  • I don't know why, but somehow we immediately started using Bluebird Taxi. There is a convenient application, you don’t need a local card (although Tanya had one) and we generally liked it. Probably because we were called for the first time, from the hotel, it was Bluebird and there it turned out to be a completely humane price and nice cars.

    Now we also called this taxi and went out onto the road. On the road, cars crawl and twitch in a continuous stream. Immortal tourists on bikes scurry between them briskly and brazenly, resting their hands on the sides, trunks and hoods. And we're on the other side.

    With difficulty we crossed the road. But he is not and is not there ... It was getting dark ...

    All this time the driver called us and Tanya in his English, and he in his English, found out exactly where we were. In the end, he drove past us for some reason. And there is no way to return there, the traffic is one-way. And we went to look for this taxi. To say I'm tired is an understatement. The last stretch of the road we condensed into this stream of bikes and cars, along with our sidecar, because the bikes and cars practically did not move, and again we needed to go to the other side. I remember Kuta as a terrible horror. So that I go there at least once ... Yes, never)

    And Tanya recently told me - she was in Kut, it's so nice there at sunset. Whether she was already used to all this disgrace, or whether we were at the wrong time, I don’t know.

    We ordered dinner in the room, or rather on the terrace. It was late and no one took the plates away. That's when Toki got poisoned.

    And tomorrow the real journey begins - we are going to Amed!

    Translated automatically from Russian. View original
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