Book "Unforgettable Iran". Chapter 6.3 Isfahan Grand Bazaar (carpets and sweets)
For most tourists, Isfahan is known for its painted dishes, carpets and sweets. You can get the best experience by visiting the Grand Bazaar in Isfahan (Bazaar e Bozorg). Since tea drinking is an important part of the sales technique here, in any store you will be persistently offered to try black tea with pulaki (a kind of sugar in the form of thin slices). I did not haggle for goods, but only drank free tea, so the prices indicated are certainly inflated and not final. To buy an expensive item, you do not need to take cash with you - in most retail outlets you can pay with an international plastic card.
Isfahan utensils are made of copper, which is covered with white enamel and then painted with intricate patterns. Prices for small vases and plates - $20-60.
Try to find the artist himself, in his workshop he will show how works of art are created and offer an acceptable price for them.
Isfahan carpets are a separate direction in carpet weaving. Two types of carpets are sold on the market: Nomad (translated as Nomad) and Classic. The pattern for Nomad carpets, as the sellers explained, is invented by the author himself and most often does not have clear rules in design. In such a carpet, the pattern is valued more, while the number of knots does not matter. A small carpet costs $80-200.
To determine the quality of a "Classic" carpet, you need to set aside a centimeter along its edge and count the number of knots, the more there are, the better the quality and the higher the price. If the longitudinal threads (warp) in such a carpet or fringe are made of silk, this also increases its value. On average, a large carpet costs $6000-8000. The price of small rugs varies greatly.
For example, I was offered a small bird carpet for $800, stating that it was a well-known brand, and offered to compare it with another carpet that was twice the size but cost $600. Looking closely at the reverse side, I noticed that the first carpet has a lot more knots than the second, so the drawing itself looks better. If you like silk, you can buy a very small reversible silk rug for $150-250.
All the carpets I saw were handmade. To check the carpet, look at its underside, the pattern should be as clear as on the front side. Then try to fold the carpet in several directions, for example, with an envelope. If it is embroidered by machine, then you are unlikely to succeed - such a carpet is glued along the base, so that it can only be rolled up.
In manual production, glue is not used, so the fabric will be much more flexible and elastic.
Carpet with birds - on the left, has more knots, so it is significantly more expensive, although smaller in size
Another interesting souvenir can be a painted box made of camel bone, as well as copper items and paintings made using the metal-plastic technique, when relief images are created on thin sheets of metal with special tools.
Gourmets will definitely be delighted with their arrival in Isfahan. Here you can try Khoresht fesenjan - meat with mushrooms with its walnut-pomegranate sauce resembles Georgian dishes, and Biryani - a dish of rice, spices with the addition of meat or fish.
The famous nougat made from sugar, water from roses and proteins - gaa z ("a" long) with pistachios is also produced in this city. The most famous company for the production of nougat is Safir, whose assortment includes sets with 10%, 15%, 28%, 40% pistachio content in nougat.
Prices for sets from $2-14. You can buy nougat from Azerbaijani Tebri for $1-2 with almonds and hazelnuts and compare it with classic Isfahan. Poulaki (poulaki) is also considered a local sweet - thin and transparent round plates of fried sugar with the addition of saffron.
Author: Kozlovsky Alexander.
Book: "Unforgettable Iran". 159 days hitchhiking.
