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Nostalgia for Crimea!

04 June 2019 • Travel time: with 18 July 2018 on 25 July 2018
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I had a dream to visit Montenegro for a long time. But the short season and hefty prices (compared to the Egyptian-Turkish all-inclusive) forced everything to be postponed and postponed. And putting off a dream is bad. Therefore, if not now, then when - I decided and secretly bought a tour from my husband. We are flying together - with a ten-year-old son.

First Impressions


Insanely pleased with the morning rather than the night flight. And all why? Tivat's small airport does not illuminate the runway and all flights are operated in daylight. Departure from Zhulyan, which is good news. The last time they flew from here to Dalaman was in 2016 (there is a story about our trip on the website). The airport has since been expanded. There are more flights, more tourists too. To fly for a couple of hours, we didn’t have time to look back as we had already landed. The strip is very narrow, shrouded in mountains. I think it is not easy for pilots in Tivat. We unload and... stomp to the terminal on foot. No bus, especially - sleeves.

The queue does not fit in the building, its tail is on the street. But passport control passed quickly. We pick up our luggage and go to our bus. I inhale the smell of pine needles near the airport and understand: we are not in the tropics. Not in the stuffy during Turkey's high season. The climate is very mild. The sun is hot and it's easy to breathe. In the shadows - so generally a fairy tale.

They take us through Budva. First, we unload tourists there. I look around: this is Crimea! But not in his best years. Unfinished, redone. . . Our Rafailovichi is 10 km from Budva. Literally 15 minutes and we are there. Right at the bus stop, the hostess of the villa meets us. We go into the gate, go down the stairs - and now the villa. There is no territory as such. Only 3 storey building. There are many flowers. We rise to the 2nd floor. Room 14. Two rooms with a large balcony and a kitchenette, everything is clean. New plumbing, TV on the wall - plasma. Air conditioning. Everything is very worthy!

It's not clear in what language we are trying to find out


where can we have breakfast - after all, we have a half-board package. Not the first time we understand that there is no cafe at the villa. We must go down to the embankment, give the voucher - our food is there. OK. Let's go. We come to a very small cafe right on the waterfront - about 6-8 tables on the veranda, the rest under umbrellas right on the beach. Breakfast from 7 to 10. Dinner - from 19 to 21.00. Breakfast buffet. Poor, I want to tell you. The omelette is over for today. There were rolls and meat, cheese cuts. Coffee, tea… The coffee is very weak, brewed right in the kettle, but always cold. I had a fascinating story about how we were looking for coffee in Sri Lanka. In short, the hotel had such a liquid-liquid coffee. I wanted real. On our next visit to the city with our tuk-tuker, we were asked to get good coffee. And so he leads us to a diner, where only locals sit. I understand that coffee will now be poured into a glass cup. I shout: no, no, plastic, pliz.

Runs for a plastic glass to a nearby stall, I languish in anticipation. Finally I get my glass of coffee, eagerly I try... One on one, like in a hotel. Goo. The same coffee in Montenegro.

Breakfast was over, let's go explore the beaches. The closest one to us - semi-pebbly, semi-sandy - is always crowded with people, dirty. Well, sun loungers for 10 euros. Never bathed there. We are moving towards the picturesque Kamenovo beach. We pass many beaches, but they are all tiny. Paid sun loungers, as a rule, stand on the side of a good small-pebble entrance. And on the free parts (where you can throw a towel) - huge cobblestones. A trifle, but unpleasant. We go through the tunnel to Kamenovo beach. Our child is delighted - there are so many rocks around that you can climb and jump. Kirill is engaged in gymnastics, and from an early age, just like a monkey - he climbs everything that is possible and impossible. In general, behind the cries of “get off, it’s dangerous”, “but where are you again!

the more picky tourist you are.

Swimming, swimming - you can also take a daytime siesta. Under the air conditioner. The child, however, did not share our plans. Well, let him watch cartoons. But having covered ourselves with snow-white sheets, we understand that they completely forgot about the water! How nice to have relatively grown children. Kirill gladly goes to the store near the villa, buys bread and water. Excitedly tells how many kopecks he was given change... Bread, by the way, for sandwiches. As experienced travelers, we bring several sticks of sausages, sausages, pate, spaghetti, rice and buckwheat from home. All cereals in small bags. It's all a side dish for lunch. Like it or not, the sea air makes you hungry. Yes, and the child still needs to eat. This I can hold on to fruit all day. My husband was responsible for the dinners - he does it very well. A couple of times they served dinner on the balcony, but alas... The sun is hot, the pleasures are zero.


I had to make a table out of a bedside table and dine in the room.

Before dinner, we explored the wild beach, in front of the tunnel on Kamenovo. It is a small lagoon with huge rocks. From them you can jump directly into the water, deep immediately. Cyril squealed with delight. You can sunbathe on the stones... But there is a shadow from the stones... In general, it’s ideal for us, if not for one thing. A sign in front of the entrance: “Beware of falling stones. Swimming and sunbathing is prohibited. But what about the tablets to our people? Including us. Looking ahead, I’ll say: we swam there for a couple of days. Until, before our eyes, stones began to collapse right on the artists who worked on the largest stone. They packed up and got out of there very quickly. WE were on the other side of this beach, but also a bit of that... Scared. Even Cyril was impressed. We didn't come back here again.

So, dinner in our cafe. The waiter comes up and offers four dishes to choose from. Usually it is: chicken, pork,

cutlet and fish. More often my husband and I took fish. Where else can you eat the freshest trout? The plates are huge. Garnish is correct. A lot of vegetables: both fresh and stewed / in batter. The cuisine is really tasty and close to us: no oriental spices, over the measure of spicy and spicy. I was glad that Cyril ate absolutely everything. Although this is still a food comrade: you can’t force it from childhood. All our all-inclusives followed him to take at least something other than fries and pasta. And here is a pleasant surprise. Dinners without hassle. We savored, and he ate faster than us and ran to squeeze the dog Bella. This is the mascot of our cafe. White little mongrel. Already in years Apparently, the owner's dog. All the time she slept under the table closest to the bar. And only for dinner she went to the promenade between the tables. We fed Bella. And Cyril squeezed as much as he wanted. Now Bella is still called the most vivid memory of Montenegro.


We visited the local supermarket, which is right on the waterfront. Prices are in euros, but it is better not to translate into hryvnias. So calm down. But in fairness, I’ll say: we found a cool beer for 0.79 euros (for a promotion in a supermarket). Our beer is more expensive. Most importantly, a supermarket near the beach: you could buy cold all the time.

Spaniard on the beach

Well, in continuation of the topic of alcohol. Again, as experienced travelers, they took with them a bottle of rum and a bottle of gin (previously poured into plastic bottles). By the way, they did the right thing, because the duty free in Zhuliany did not please (the choice is small, the prices are space). It is clear that most of these strong drinks went to my husband (I'm more for wine and beer). And he, as the owner of these drinks, takes a liter of rum with him to the beach. I say: well, where, now it will heat up in the sun, this is only the first glass will be high, and then slop. And in general strong drinks are not compatible with the sun. No, he says.

Ice cola from the supermarket will save him (rum). Okay, boss. We go to a wild beach with stones (it was before the collapse). We occupy the largest stone. Suddenly, a tanned man comes up to the stone. He asks something in Spanish. English, I say. In very broken English, he asks if it is deep here and if it is possible to jump. I point to Cyril, who is jumping. He happily says "okay" and undresses. The husband, who knows only gestures in English, is already offering him our mask and fins. Yes, that's how sociable he is with me. I go swimming, swim for about 15 minutes, all the time I look at the stone, where the Spaniard and the husband are actively discussing something. In what language, I wonder? I return to the stone. The Spaniard immediately goes swimming with our mask. And the husband says: he wanted to treat him to Ukrainian cola. I'm talking like this? Shows rum in a cola bottle. He says he wanted to joke and poured pure rum with a subspecies of cola. The Spaniard refused


but he asked me to pour the second one with normal cola. Ah here is such men's jokes. In general, when the Spaniard was bought, I talked a little with him. Again, a mixture of English, Spanish and gestures. It turned out that the Spaniard is actually an Argentine who came to the World Cup in Russia. For a month he hung out in the Russian Federation in different cities (he showed me photos at the stadiums mostly), then he went to Europe. It's been a good tour. At first I visited all the capitals, then I decided to take off to the sea. Yesterday I was in Croatia. He says that the prices are space! And the sea and beauty are the same as in Montenegro. I believe! And to be honest, I didn’t want to go to Croatia. The sea there is Adriatic, which means it is cold. It is better to fly to Marmaris again. It's so nice, Roma talked to a man from another continent.

A trip to Budva

The next day, it was decided to go to Budva for shrimp and meat. Our unobtrusive guide (for the first time I see this!

near the supermarket) we found prosciutto at a great price (from 2 to 5 euros depending on the weight). Yes, these were trimmings (not a whole piece), but how delicious it is! I was glad that it was packed in a vacuum. My husband immediately realized that we would not come here again and bought a couple of packs to take home. We bought more vegetables, figs and waved for shrimp. Next, they wanted to find a butcher's shop, where the steak is fried in front of you. We walked around the block around the market, asking the locals. But no one heard anything of the sort. Cheated guide. Or maybe we messed something up. Or maybe a language barrier. But it was very hot to look further, so we went to a stop. While we were waiting for our bus, I took a look at Budva. Well, the spitting image of Yalta. With its promenade and shops.

We arrived at the villa. Sat down to dinner. How delicious! Shrimps, vegetables!! ! We got to the fig. The husband says: they spent money in vain. In our garden, it is lying on the ground, no one collects it. So, from that evening, my husband and son went to collect.

On the evening before departure we went again, but there were no more figs. Apparently, the owners noticed the loss, they began to collect it themselves. On the embankment in Rafailovici, by the way, very expensive figs. Something about 18 euros or a kilogram, or a box.

Boko Kotor


From the must-have excursions - this is the Bay of Kotor and canyons. We were looking for Boko Kotor on the waterfront, comparing prices. First they found 16 euros for adults and 15 per child. Were already mentally prepared to buy. But after dinner, they asked the price of a peasant near a cafe. 18 for adults and free for a child. Well, is there a difference? But just go tomorrow. No problem! We are free for the entire holiday. We leave at 7 in the morning for a stop, there are few tourists - a few couples. The bus arrived, we carefully check whether ours. And then we somehow went on an excursion on ATVs in Egypt. It was in 2007, Kirill was not there yet. We went and everything is ok. And only in the evening, having met people who sold us an excursion, listened,

What are we g... that we did not leave at the appointed time. And we left, and even earlier. And a little earlier we were picked up by a bus. As it turned out, another company. That's how it happens. In general, our bus, even double-decker. We chose the best viewing places at the top. But we did not rejoice for long, because in Budva we transferred to another bus. And there already got not such trump places. But in any case, the slopes of Montenegro are beautiful! Around simply incredible beauty. We drove past a clean and beautiful beach with a blue flag. At the entrance to the city of Kotor, completely different landscapes open - gorges, tunnels. In Kotor, a short stop, an hour of free time. Then boarding the boat. Kotor is a city under the protection of UNESCO. Bay city. A city surrounded by steep mountains. In the Middle Ages, these are the best conditions for a fortress. Actually, that's what happened to Kotor. Fortress wall, leaving high in the mountains.

And a small old town with a defensive wall in the best European traditions. Time is short, so we quickly buy ice cream and fly to the old city. We go around and take pictures. Then we go to the embankment. And there is a huge cruise ship parked there. I counted 11 floors. It's my dream to walk on such a giant in the waters of Europe. And my husband was drooling. Well, she is a dream in order to make it come true... Then we find our boat, we load. It's big enough. Downstairs there are long benches without any tables. Upstairs benches and sun loungers. Who wants to burn - you are welcome. We occupy half the shop downstairs. And to our surprise, Kirill (always cheerful) falls asleep soundly. I was already afraid that the temperature was touching my forehead... But probably an early rise and sea pitching gave such an effect. They didn’t want to wake up and leave one not comme il faut, so at the first stop at the church in the middle of the bay, only I got off.

I walked around the island in a minute, took a couple of selfies and back to the boat. Then there was a stop in the town of Herceg Novi. Kirill already got excited and we went ashore. To be honest, we didn’t go around the city much, it was very hot, I didn’t want to get a heat stroke even for the sake of medieval beauties. I leave my husband and son on the beach, go for dinner. I walk along the embankment and understand that I want to go to the toilet. There is no time to look for him, so I go to one of the coastal restaurants, order an espresso for 2 euros, after which I find the room I need. Of course, a little expensive for a toilet, but what can you do. So far, I have drunk the most expensive coffee at the Dead Sea when I went on an excursion from Egypt to Israel. Passport control all night, road, bustle. . . And here is a cafe overlooking the Dead Sea, just a few minutes and coffee for $5! ! To be honest, I would give 10 for him (a spoon for dinner is expensive). Here's a way to make money out of thin air. Well, almost out of thin air.


Let's get into it on a boat. The water really does look blue. Cyril and I dive, my husband did not dare. What can I tell you. . . That's where the cold water is!!! ! I take my words back about our beach in Rafailovici. In the cave, the water does not warm up and seems very cold. Swimming in the cave seemed unsafe to me, because there are three boats in it at the same time, people are jumping from each. At the same time, new boats come in, and there is a risk that he will not notice the tourist and go right on his head. In general, my mother's heart was out of place until Kirill came on board. We go back, loaded onto our old boat. Now we are on our way to Tivat, and there the bus should pick us up (and this is much closer to Budva than to go from Kotor). But something went wrong, and the guide on the ship tells us: the weather has deteriorated in Tivat, it is not safe to walk on the open sea, so we return back to Kotor. Sorry, good people.

My husband immediately saw a conspiracy in this, he says: they knew from the very beginning, but they fooled the tourists! I don't know. What's the point of this? In general, I perceive the news philosophically. We find free places on the upper deck (it’s not so hot anymore, and the breeze is fresh) and we plunge into relaxation for a couple of hours. The eye simply rejoices at such beauty around. These are the best seascapes I have ever seen. But! Time goes back very slowly and monotonously. We still made it to dinner. But after dinner - in the room and sleep.

Another lazy beach break

After the excursion to Boko-Kotor, I decide that I am not going to the canyons (my husband and son initially did not want to). There are only 2 days of rest left, and with all my love for excursions, I cannot sacrifice one of them for a stuffy bus and a rise at 4 in the morning. Let's save the canyons for later. After the collapse of stones on a wild beach, we went to a civilian one. True, a sun lounger for 10 euros was not taken. Huddled on a towel.


Some kind of terrible Slavic toad does not allow you to throw out 20 euros (and on a good 30, because Kirill is already big and wants a separate sunbed) for comfort. On shrimp, please. For beer, too. For wine - for a sweet soul. But not for the comfort of the beach. And how to deal with it? In general, we did not like it on that beach. We went to the beach near the boat parking lot. There is a pier and my men wanted to jump from it. The water was dirtier than on other beaches (of course - boats! ) But hunting is worse than captivity. And now, after another trip to the supermarket for cold beer, the husband comes running inspired: he says, give me money! There, a man sells shrimp right from the car, just caught. True, 20 euros per kilogram, and not 10, as in Budva. But if you add 8 for the fare to 10, bash comes out bash. We ended up buying shrimp from him. The latter were taken away, almost got into a fight for them with a Russian-speaking man. Kidding. The man gave in. He says that this is not enough for me, but the seller promised to bring more,

but under the lid... like beer. I don't understand what is written. I go to the consultant: ed? Dry? That is: dry, red? Yes, yes, she nods. Fine! It costs something around 4 euros. It turned out not bad, but not for everyone. A very young wine, it even ferments a little. We drank in two evenings. We tried to do it on the balcony, but the mosquitoes are not asleep. And again, we were saved by a room with air conditioning, a Russian TV channel and good old maps.

The flight was uneventful. Only they reported about it late, four times they went to the info board, I was ready to write on viber, but info came: everything was according to plan. And this means an early rise, a short journey to the airport and forward. Go home, plan new trips! My conclusions about Montenegro are as follows: beautiful, but dilapidated! But that's for now. I think in terms of tourism here is still ahead.

PS: I finally understood why the country was called Montenegro, when black clouds suddenly came running in the middle of a sunny day.

For a while, all the green mountains turned completely black.

Translated automatically from Russian. View original
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