Macedonia. Time has no power.

30 July 2009 Travel time: with 03 august 2008 on 13 august 2008
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It all started back in 2007, with a trip to Montenegro. While there, I made friends with many people from the countries of the former Yugoslavia, and also got acquainted with their music. It all started with music. I really liked the songs of the Macedonian singer Tose Proeska. And when I returned home, I caught fire with a dream to visit the country from which he was born. Unfortunately, unfortunately, he died in a car accident in 2007. He was 26 years old. . .

And we were invited to Macedonia by our friend from the Montenegrin resorts - for his birthday. The organization of the trip was laborious - there were not many agencies in Ukraine that would deal with Macedonia (or rather, at that time I managed to find one). And, since it seemed to me that the prices of this agency are a bit overpriced (and I always want to save money), and besides, I'm used to and like to organize everything myself - I decided not to use the services of travel agencies. (Maybe someone will say that it was not reasonable - for the first time, to a little-studied country, without the help of specially trained people, but I succeeded. I knew what I wanted and how to get it).


Firstly - a visa-12 euros for Ukrainians at the embassy. The list of documents can be found on the net. Nothing supernatural - confirmation of a flight, hotel reservation, an invitation from an ovir (if you are flying to friends), insurance, copies and originals of documents. Everything is simple. On consideration of documents - 1 day. If all the documents are in order, you can get a visa in 1 hour, i. e. almost without leaving the embassy. At that time, they began to introduce the procedure for issuing visas to Macedonia at the airport (like for 6 euros), but I decided to do everything in advance and was not mistaken. On the plane, we met a girl who also flew to MK but without a visa - at every customs point she had misunderstandings - someone didn’t know, then someone didn’t understand, then they called the embassies of Ukraine and Macedonia. That's why I prefer to do everything in advance. Inexpensive and calm.

Second flight. Very inexpensive (and in fact - the cheapest - 6000 UAH / person / round trip) we found in the AviaTour agency - Kyiv-Ljubljana-Skopje. Not exactly comfortable. We had to wait for 6/8 hours at the Ljubljana airport both there and back, since there was no visa allowing us to leave the port. Those who have such a visa (i. e. Schengen) will be very lucky)). The port is very empty and boring. But you can have a good time in the company of friends or fellow travelers, if any, or just sleep)).

Third, accommodation. Through the Kyiv agency, accommodation cost 350 euros / 1 person / 10 days. I worked with a Macedonian travel agency and we lived for 350 euros / 2 people / 10 days (the savings are significant, and it did not cost me any special efforts). Communication was conducted via e-mail in English. Slavko listened to my wishes, sent me descriptions, prices and photos of hotels that suit me, I chose, made an advance payment in the amount of 50% of the total amount through the bank and received from him confirmation of receipt of payment and color scanned bookings for the embassy and personal use.

Upon arrival at the Alexander the Great airport in Skopje, we were met by Slavko from the travel agency and our friend. We paid the remaining 50% on the spot and received brochures with maps and sights of MK from him. He instructed where and in what city we should call whom, where to turn on what issues and what we need to register at the police station upon arrival.


The first place of our stay was the city of Gevgelia, near the city of Miravtsi. The town is small, more like a village. We lived with our friend. Ate with him. As for hotels - maybe they are, but we just didn't need them. Of the attractions - a place called White Paradise. Macedonia is a small country. But each city has its own climate. In Gevgelia, for example, it is very hot. You can walk around the city only according to the principle “from cafe to cafe” - to cool off - and go to the nearest cafe to cool down again. At night, the temperature did not drop below +30 degrees (this is by eye, or rather by the body)) from personal experience - it was unbearably hot to sit on a bench late at night). Therefore, the place is called Paradise - it is a small lagoon of the cleanest and relatively warm (! ) mountain river, on the banks of which there is a small cafe. Swimming there is an incredible pleasure! Take note - in cafes in Macedonia only beer, water and snacks. You can't eat there everywhere. I don't mean restaurants, but cafes - you can't even buy a sandwich there! Gevlelia also has its own cultural life - fellow villagers organize various competitions, contests and fun - for themselves. At a good level. It reminded me of Brazilian large-scale celebrations “for their own” (which were shown in TV shows)). There is also a good disco. It doesn’t look like much, but for a town of this level it is very solid. And although it usually ended at 3 am, but, having learned that there were guests from Ukraine, it was open until the morning! Plus free cocktails, songs for our order (live and very high quality) - they love Ukraine very much there!

Then we went to Ohrid - the most popular summer resort (there are not many of them, really). Everyone goes there in the summer. The city is located on the shore of the INCREDIBLY CLEAN Lake Ohrid, which is called the "European Baikal". Very clean, deep, the water is incredibly clear, warm. For me, this lake is the standard of the best water for a beach holiday. Some beaches are stone, shelly. But even where the beaches are sandy, the water is not at all muddy. I still find it hard to believe that somewhere there is such water. Ohrid has everything for recreation - a huge number of hotels, cafes, bars, restaurants, excursions, discos, clubs. We did not find water activities. In Russian, too, none of the local population speaks (somehow it was strange to find out, for some reason). So, it doesn’t hurt to learn the basics of the Macedonian language in advance, even though Russian, Ukrainian and Macedonian are very similar, which any Macedonian will definitely tell you about! )). Russians and Ukrainians are sooo few. Rather, we met one couple from Russia and one girl from Ukraine. Plus two Poles. )) And, you know, it was nice (the fact that there were few compatriots. Somehow completely different than in the Crimea or the same Montenegro, where “ours” are everywhere)). In Ohrid itself, the beaches are not very concrete or shelly. They are not very customary to relax and sunbathe. But a beautiful and colorful embankment - a bunch of souvenirs, trampolines, snack bars - from ordinary bracelets to jewelry made from natural pearls of Lake Ohrid; from snacks and beer to delicious trout, octopus and shrimp dishes. The food is varied and not very expensive. Prices are similar to Ukrainian ones (translated at the current exchange rate into euros). In everyday life - euros and dinars - do not put them side by side so as not to confuse - they are similar)). The climate in Ohrid is a resort one - it is hot during the day - up to 35 degrees, but due to the proximity of water it is tolerable. But at night it gets very cold - who was in the know (locals) took warm clothes with them. The girls flaunted in demi-season knee-high boots))) And this is in the summer along the embankment! I kind of envied them. In general, the girls in MK are very beautiful, well-groomed and fashionable. But, our Macedonian acquaintances said, they are very unfaithful and dishonest. Moreover, the Macedonians themselves practically did not pay attention to these breathtaking and beautiful “Barbie dolls”! Even then it was difficult for me sometimes to look away (and this is with my traditional orientation)) But, all the same, advice to girls - if you go there and want to look relatively good - take everything that is most beautiful, bright and fashionable! And men, on the contrary, are not very good in MK). Ugly, clumsy, unkempt. . . Although I was expecting handsome, hefty Macedonians from the military. Somehow it didn't work out. But they are all very good people. Very open, hospitable, welcoming and pleasant.

There are 365 churches, temples and monasteries in Ohrid. That's right, for fans. Excavations are still underway there - there is something for history buffs to see. Cultural life is also well established - concerts are often held - both folk and modern music (when we were there - George Michael came. We did not go, but it was great to hear. )

As for hotels, there are a variety of them for every taste. We lived in a room with 2 beds, TV, small kitchenette, shower, toilet (cold and hot water always), no air conditioning, 25 meters from the embankment. 35 euros/room. No food. There are rooms cheaper and with food, there are more expensive ones. There are no such conditions as in Turkey - with pools and water attractions.


We did not quite like relaxing on the beaches of Ohrid. Our friends took us by car to the resort of St. Naum. Breathtaking place! 2 hours drive along the embankment - beautiful views, you can look at other beaches, shops, villages - and you are in St. Naum. Be careful on the road - a narrow serpentine with sharp turns. There is one hotel in St. Naum, and that one is at the monastery. In addition to the hotel, there is a campsite for the military personnel of Macedonia (we saw the general himself)). Ordinary people are not allowed to enter the military base. We were lucky - our friends are all military. On the territory of the base there is a wonderful sandy beach, the cleanest, not at all muddy water, but the proximity of nature provides vipers and snakes as an addition. There aren't many, but you have to be careful. Especially in remote areas and in the evening. Peacocks walk around the campsite. Very nice. ) There is also an excellent restaurant. Everything is for the military, therefore, at the best level (in terms of hospitality, quality and taste. If you are after service and always bowing waiters, then you are not here). On the beaches and in general at the base of St. Naum - complete safety - we left things with money, cameras and phones right on the beach. There is a small food and souvenir market. But for young people and lovers of tricks, this resort is not very suitable. Rather for families and the elderly. It's calm and quiet here. The state border and the border zone pass nearby - you shouldn’t swim far on a mattress - the first two shots of the border guards are warning. And there is Albania - so either Macedonians or Albanians. It's not worth the risk. They are still at enmity and will not be especially ceremonious with border guards.

After Ohrid, we went to Krushevo - to pay tribute to my musical preferences and get acquainted with the possibilities of skiing. Krushevo is located in the mountains and it is quite cold there - 15-20 degrees during the day. At night it is even colder. We lived in a private house (rented a room, also through an agency). 30/euro (if I'm not mistaken) also without meals. It was in this city that Toshe Proeski was born and buried. Were at his memorial. He was really loved and loved in Macedonia. Everywhere we go there are photos of this singer. And in general - in all cafes, bars, discos - mostly his songs are heard. Of course, they are good, but someone may not like it. However, like any other music. In general, Macedonian music is not very developed - most often it is pop music based on folk tunes. And often quite primitive. Toshe Proeksky's music has the most European format. Personally, I caught a buzz from his songs everywhere and always. So I really liked it there. As for winter recreation, ski tourism is not very developed, but still exists. There are several hotels, rooms for rent from the owners. 1-2 descents. Lifts. Quite weak compared to the most modest Carpathians.

What you should pay attention to:

When buying tickets for intercity buses - be careful - you may be sold tickets for non-existent seats (although we did not have the opportunity to check this in advance before the bus arrived). And then, when it turns out and the bus leaves, it's hard to get the money back. And in general, always be on your guard - seeing that you are a foreigner, they can deceive, circle around your finger. Especially if the question concerns money and organizational issues.


An important point - in Skopje, on the way back I had to come across a completely wild case. Our plane came in for landing at the beginning of the sixth morning. At first they spent the night in cafe-restaurants. But all of them, as one, close at one in the morning (. There are practically no night shops. In order not to rush and fly in a hurry by taxi to the port in the morning, knowing their organization, we decided to arrive early and wait for the flight at the airport. We arrived, but it’s funny that the airport is closed for the night. We went into the waiting room, settled in. I even managed to doze off, and then the security guard starts to escort us out, and pretends that he does not understand anything in English (and this is at an international airport where there are EU badges everywhere ! ) And we had to sit on the benches on the street until 5 in the morning. And at night it's cold in Skopje, there are no warm clothes. In general, it was the saddest thing from the whole vacation in MK. I have never seen such wildness. Keep this in mind!

In general, I liked the trip. I got what I wanted - a trip not to a banal country, the absence of a Russian dialect, the study of a wonderful culture and, in my opinion, a beautiful, in my opinion, language (I'm just thrilled by it)), a wonderful beach holiday, clean water, a good tan, and most importantly - music and songs in Macedonian by an artist I like.

I advise everyone who wants to get distracted by something not banal (I mean countries to which it is "accepted" to travel) and is ready for new experiences! I am ready to answer all your questions!

Translated automatically from Russian. View original
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живность
Македония. Жаркая Гевгелия
Закат на озере
Монастырь Св.Наума
Закат на озере
Македония. Время не властно.
древняя крепость
курортный город Охрид
Белый Рай.Гевгелия.
Древний амфитеатр
павлины на территории базы
Белый Рай. Лагуна.
1 из 365 церквей Охрида.
загадочный лес.спасительная прохлада
археологические расскопки
Св. Наум.озеро с видом на Албанию и нейтральную зону.
отель Св.Наум
мерило прозрачности.
а озеро таки большое-другого берега не видно)
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