I have been planning to visit Guadalajara for a long time. Now it is a bedroom suburb of Madrid. The city was catastrophically damaged during the Civil War, when the line of defense of the republican Madrid passed here. If we say "before / after the War", then they mean the Great Patriotic War, for the Spaniards it is the Civil War!
I rode "for good luck", not deciding on the return. At the Guadalajara train station, the first thing I looked at was the schedule - trains back to Madrid only in the evening! Just in case, I asked the pretty girl in the ticket window if there was a day train? - Yes, it turns out there is, probably on the occasion of Sunday. Of course, why indicate the train in the schedule, if all the locals already know about it, and the only crazy “Russo-tourist” thought to ask? In this, as in many other things, we have common features with the Spaniards!
From the station to the left - soon a bridge appeared, an old one, built in the 10th century by the Arabs using Roman supports. It is provided to pedestrians and cars. A modern one for heavy transport was built nearby. The only pity is that the smell from the Henares River indicates trouble with the environment. At some distance on both sides, behind the greenery of trees, there are modern residential areas.
Climbing up the hill behind the bridge, I found myself at a dilapidated wall. I asked the only passer-by at this noon hour if this was the Alcazar?
“The ruins of the Alcazar, ” an elderly Spaniard corrected me, perhaps a little older than me. The fortress was bombed during the Civil War.
After passing the fenced garden near the church, I found myself in front of a building that looked like an antique Jewelry Box. This is the Palace of the Dukes of Infantado. This is not the first building on this site - palaces have been here before.
This masterpiece by Juan de Guas was completed in 1483, it also suffered from shelling and bombing, and even earlier from rebuilding. I came across a flock of schoolgirls with a couple of mentors, for some reason not a single boy was among them. There were no other tourists either. To the left of the entrance, a faceless extension of an unknown architect leaned against the wall of the Palace - there is a museum exposition.
Entrance to the museum from the patio. Decorated with carvings, obviously by the hands of Arab craftsmen, the courtyard seems to be used for some spectacular events, this is evidenced by the metal structures encircling it around the perimeter at the level of the second floor, probably for scenery, but it would be better if they were not there!
Once the townspeople elected the respected Mendoza as the head of the city and judge, the election was confirmed from year to year, later he was recognized as such by the king of Castile.
The title of Dukes of Infantado was received by the surname, the city became the center of culture and arts of Spain under them. With the family moving to Madrid, the decline of Guadalajara began.
In front of the Palace is a monument to Don Pedro Mendoza, probably the Great Cardinal Pedro Gonzá lez de Mendoza. This surname occurs repeatedly in Spanish history. Representatives of the family also became famous in the conquest of the New World: cities in Argentina and Panama bear the name of Mendoza, in Mexico they are reminded of the city of Guadalajara, named after the Spanish, but long overtaken by the Spanish namesake in size.
I pass by a quiet and lifeless bus station to the railway station. I buy a ticket to Madrid from the same pretty girl. There is only one train per platform. The destination on the scoreboard is Guadalajara.
- This train to Madrid? I asked the police officer just in case.
- Yes, sir, sit down, please!
And I went for new experiences on a train that is not on the schedule.
I rode "for good luck", not deciding on the return. At the Guadalajara train station, the first thing I looked at was the schedule - trains back to Madrid only in the evening! Just in case, I asked the pretty girl in the ticket window if there was a day train? - Yes, it turns out there is, probably on the occasion of Sunday. Of course, why indicate the train in the schedule, if all the locals already know about it, and the only crazy “Russo-tourist” thought to ask? In this, as in many other things, we have common features with the Spaniards!
From the station to the left - soon a bridge appeared, an old one, built in the 10th century by the Arabs using Roman supports. It is provided to pedestrians and cars. A modern one for heavy transport was built nearby. The only pity is that the smell from the Henares River indicates trouble with the environment. At some distance on both sides, behind the greenery of trees, there are modern residential areas.
Climbing up the hill behind the bridge, I found myself at a dilapidated wall. I asked the only passer-by at this noon hour if this was the Alcazar?
“The ruins of the Alcazar, ” an elderly Spaniard corrected me, perhaps a little older than me. The fortress was bombed during the Civil War.
After passing the fenced garden near the church, I found myself in front of a building that looked like an antique Jewelry Box. This is the Palace of the Dukes of Infantado. This is not the first building on this site - palaces have been here before.
This masterpiece by Juan de Guas was completed in 1483, it also suffered from shelling and bombing, and even earlier from rebuilding. I came across a flock of schoolgirls with a couple of mentors, for some reason not a single boy was among them. There were no other tourists either. To the left of the entrance, a faceless extension of an unknown architect leaned against the wall of the Palace - there is a museum exposition.
Entrance to the museum from the patio. Decorated with carvings, obviously by the hands of Arab craftsmen, the courtyard seems to be used for some spectacular events, this is evidenced by the metal structures encircling it around the perimeter at the level of the second floor, probably for scenery, but it would be better if they were not there!
Once the townspeople elected the respected Mendoza as the head of the city and judge, the election was confirmed from year to year, later he was recognized as such by the king of Castile.
The title of Dukes of Infantado was received by the surname, the city became the center of culture and arts of Spain under them. With the family moving to Madrid, the decline of Guadalajara began.
In front of the Palace is a monument to Don Pedro Mendoza, probably the Great Cardinal Pedro Gonzá lez de Mendoza. This surname occurs repeatedly in Spanish history. Representatives of the family also became famous in the conquest of the New World: cities in Argentina and Panama bear the name of Mendoza, in Mexico they are reminded of the city of Guadalajara, named after the Spanish, but long overtaken by the Spanish namesake in size.
I pass by a quiet and lifeless bus station to the railway station. I buy a ticket to Madrid from the same pretty girl. There is only one train per platform. The destination on the scoreboard is Guadalajara.
- This train to Madrid? I asked the police officer just in case.
- Yes, sir, sit down, please!
And I went for new experiences on a train that is not on the schedule.
Translated automatically from Russian. View original
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