National Prado Museum

"Prado" yesterday and today
Rating 6110

6 september 2015Travel time: 3 june 2012
I first visited the Prado in March 1979, when, after the death of Franco, relations between Spain and the USSR resumed. I visited Madrid more than once in subsequent years, but I had to do so much that there was not enough time for a new visit to the famous museum. And so, in June 2012, after 33 years, I managed to visit the famous gallery again. Alas, I did not see what I expected!
There was a long queue of those wishing to visit the gallery during the grace period (two hours before closing). The American woman, with whom we approached at the same time and whom I let ahead, was soon approached by friends in such numbers that it made me regret my gallantry. At 17.00, the issuance of free tickets began (on weekdays - at 18.00). A regular ticket in the morning and afternoon cost 12 euros, with an audio guide - 19. There was a long queue, but tickets were issued quickly. I hurried around the corner to the annex, which did not exist 30 years ago - there is now an entrance.
From this side, the territory adjacent to the museum has undergone significant changes - the adjacent street has become a pedestrian zone. There were no exposition plans in Russian, but I read the information that they appeared later.
And then - a complete disappointment! The exposition has almost halved since the old days! I did not find many famous paintings by Western European artists that were the decoration of the Prado. I was especially struck by the reduction in the exposition of paintings by Spanish painters - the pride of the Prado! Zurbaran, Ribera and others, previously represented by dozens of works, this time were present in the form of one or two works, or disappeared altogether. Of course, paintings "tour", but not in such quantities that their absence radically impoverishes the exposition.
Huge space on different floors is now devoted to trade and a restaurant.
There was no restaurant at all in the 70s, and the sale of albums and slides was placed on a small counter for two sellers, which occupied the same amount of space as is now allocated to the screening area, where he was. I was pleased with the choice of souvenirs, the appearance of albums in Russian, but I would prefer the preservation of the exposition.
The collection of Goya's works, which is clearly emphasized, is scattered over different floors. This time I did not recognize his well-known creation "Nude Macha" - I did not leave the feeling that I was seeing a completely different canvas. I even thought, is it a copy? Only later did I understand the reason - at the time of Goya there was no electric lighting, the canvas was created for natural light.
In the seventies of the last century, it was in a hall with natural light - where the restaurant is now located, and this time I discovered a masterpiece in a dark hall in the basement floor, snatched from the darkness by lamps, which, although they are called fluorescent lamps, are genuine sunlight they don't replace. From this, the canvas acquired sharpness and rudeness alien to it, and the perception of the famous work also changed. In the last century, Prado was famous for the successful placement of paintings in the exposition, now priority is given to the restaurant.
By the way, next to the "Nude Maja" there was previously a paired painting "Maja Clothed", but this time it was not. Apparently, dressed Makha was sent on tour. They say they've returned.
I left the museum with sadness, regret for the lost does not leave to this day.
Translated automatically from Russian. View original

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