El Greco's grave

El Greco's grave
Rating 7110

17 november 2017Travel time: 13 september 2010
Toledo, once the capital of Spain (Castile) and to this day the seat of the head of the Spanish Catholic Church, is inextricably linked with the name of El Greco, an extraordinary artist, a native of Crete, who left an indelible mark on Spanish and world art. He did not have significant followers. Now various researchers are trying to explain the inimitability of his manner with eye diseases or deviations in his psyche - nonentities are trying to earn a name for themselves by talking about what is inaccessible to their wretched mind! His works are the pride of the largest museums in the world, in Toledo they can be seen, for example, in the Cathedral, there is his "House Museum", although the original house where the painter lived has not been preserved.
Wikipedia reports that he lived happily ever after, loved to eat well, like some bourgeois, but in reality, it is known that the painter had many problems, especially with the then churchmen, recognition came to him centuries later! A few years ago, it was believed that the location of the grave of Domenico Theotokopoulos (1541-1614) was unknown, only relatively recently information appeared, it is on Wikipedia, that his grave is located in the monastery of Santo Domingo el Antigua. Entrance there is paid, photography is prohibited, through some window you can see some kind of coffin. There is a suspicion that this is a commercial enterprise of dubious authenticity.

The first time I visited Toledo was in the early spring of 1979, when Spain, after the death of Franco, became accessible to Soviet tourists. One of the tourists, literally “sick” with her original country, was late for the tour, which was then unacceptable, but this fact was not noticed in time.
After the trip, at the meeting of the group, she said that, without finding the bus with the group, she went around the ancient city on her own, wherever her eyes looked. In a desolate place on the rocky escarpment of the Tagus, rushing its gray-green waters around the rock where the old city was located, she stumbled upon a tombstone. The name of Domenico Theotokopoulos and the years of his life were carved on the dark gray granite of the slab set at a slight inclination ...and no flowers, wreaths or other traces of admirers! A slide on film (there was no digital technology yet), she showed us. I was not able to make an acceptable copy without special equipment.

More than 30 years have passed since I ended up in Toledo again. September 2010 turned out to be hot in Europe. Was in my late 40s when I tried to find that grave. I went to the places where, according to my calculations, the tourist should have ended up in her "single voyage" - the steep rocky coast of the Tahoe.
The heat interrupted my searches, they were unsuccessful, I had no strength to stay longer in the sun, The mystery remained unsolved.
Translated automatically from Russian. View original

Comments (4) leave a comment
PLACES NEARBY
QUESTION-ANSWER
No questions