Abbey of Mont Saint Michel

PILGRIMAGE ON THE MOUNTAIN (MONT SAINT MICHEL)
Rating 8110

14 february 2016Travel time: 29 june 2015
Seeing the amazing photos of Mont Saint-Michel, of course, I wanted to see this wonderful place with my own eyes. Alas, the visit brought many disappointments. Moreover, I left this place almost annoyed.
We had three hours (from bus to bus, including lunch). This is not enough to see, to feel this strange, mystical place, to wander slowly through it. First, in the morning we were pulled out of the carpet museum, where I also did not have enough time, to go to the monastery. Then, already at the monastery, we quickly headed from the shuttle to the mountain, not having time to admire the mountain from the dam. Then, in a crowd of slowly strolling tourists, we quickly climbed up the mountain along the only street. In the first room, I saw the models, I realized that the modern look belongs, rather, to the 19th century, and not to antiquity. What a disappointment!
Then there was running around the monastery itself, accompanied by attempts to consciously read the accompanying paper in each hall (the text is in Russian, and thanks for that). Then, constantly looking at the clock, because lunch time was ending (the province lives with a day break), and all the restaurants on the only street were full of tourists sitting there, and some were no longer receiving guests, we ran in search of a place to dine. Then a slow waiter served us well, for a very long time. I had to go look for him, take a dessert "to take away", and run through the heat to the shuttle, overtaking tourists from other countries patiently standing in line waiting for the shuttle. So we again turned out to be ill-mannered, climbed out of line, Russians. As a result, I was extremely dissatisfied with such a “visit”.
Something read, time changed my emotions, negativity decreased. Now I'm trying to figure out how to get to this place again.
It is clear that three hours to this place is catastrophically short. Or you need to go there at 9-10 in the morning, so that before lunch you can see everything slowly, then have lunch, wander along the street, the walls around the settlement, and gardens. Perhaps also on the sands (that is, spend the night somewhere nearby). Or drop by in the afternoon when lunch is over. And even better - spend the whole day there, not in a hurry.
My research led to the fact that I realized that in the 21st century it is quite difficult to get to the monastery. Vehicles have changed, but the Mountain is still difficult to access. Judge for yourself. It is recommended to go from Paris to Rennes (or Dol-de-Bretagne, or Caen) by high-speed train, then by regional train - to Pontorson, from which the remaining 9 kilometers - by bus (although it takes you to the dam, a few hundred meters remain). A Euroline bus option is also possible, again to Rennes. You will get a day with all these transfers.
Another option that many now choose is a car. But you can’t drive up to the monastery, parking is about 2 kilometers away, then you need to get there by shuttle or on foot. Even if you stay at a hotel on the mainland, you either need to walk from there (maybe a little less than 2 km) or take the same shuttle (it leaves from the tourist center at the parking lot, makes three stops along the way). If you stay at a hotel on a mountain, you also somehow need to get to it with things (any of the above methods). The bike can be left closest, but then you also need to work hard, pedaling. So the modern tourist is the same as the pilgrim of the past: a long journey, donations for a visit, contemplation on the spot - everything is similar.
I will not write what can be read literally anywhere about Mont-Saint-Michel: about a bishop who was beaten on the head by the Archangel Michael, demanding to found a monastery.
I will try to tell other legends of the Mountain and how everything is already arranged on the island.
So. In the days of the Celts, a tribe of Ambivarets lived in these parts. Three rivers flowed, as now, into the current Bay of Saint-Michel: Couenon, Se and Selyun. Couesnon today is the border of Normandy and Brittany. Previously, they say, the river and the island belonged to Brittany, but today the island is still Normandy. As if before Couesnon proceeded differently, then changed course. Poems are written about this, retelling as follows: Couesnon, in his madness, gave the mountain to Normandy, but if Normandy had not been so beautiful, Saint Michael would not have chosen it.
They say that the names "Se" and "Selyun" come from the Celtic word "senes" - this is how the Gauls called capricious priestesses who commanded storms and controlled people by the power of the elements. And, indeed, all three rivers flow through the territories flooded by the tides, changing their course, filling the bay with sand. At the same time, these sands are quicksand.
There are two islands in the bay today, the one closest to the land above. It is said that in the time of the Gauls, the present island of St. Michael was a mountain on the border of oak groves and the sea. The mountain was called Tom Belen, that is, it was dedicated to the god Belen. The priestesses of the cult of the moon gathered there. There were nine priestesses-prophets, they were called "seles" and terrified the uninitiated. They could foresee the future, become invisible, and travel with the wind. Priestesses made bloody sacrifices, lived in seclusion on the seashore. At night they went to the neighboring island (which today is called Tombelin).
Anyone who tried to spy on the priestesses lost his boat, which crashed into the sea, and the insolent himself was haunted by visions. One day, a Gallic warrior wanted to be told his fate. He secretly crossed over to the island and spied on the rituals of the priestesses. They noticed him and wanted to kill him. But one of the priestesses suddenly fell in love with him.
The rest left the island. For three days the priestess and the warrior were together. Then she, already going crazy and losing her strength, predicted his fate, full of victories, an early death in battle and said that after death she would take his soul and torment her. Then I put him in a boat and drove him off the island. She herself died.
In the Middle Ages, the legend of a giant who kept the daughter of the Breton king Oel was associated with the same island. The girl died here in sorrow.
Then the peasants told about the girl Helen, who fell in love with the knight Wilhelm. He left to conquer England, and the girl died here of anguish.
That is, sad stories have always been associated with Tombelin.
The Romans called the Celtic mountain Belen Hill or Mount Tomb. The druids of the cult of the sun gathered there. Then the sea swallowed up the land with forests, and the mountain became an island. Gradually, the Romans drove the Druids out of Gaul to the British Isles.
The Romans were later replaced by the Franks.
During the time of the Merovingians, the first Christians who came to preach from the other side of the English Channel built a chapel here.
And the chapel of St. Aubert on the western edge of the island reminds of the founder of the monastery, Ober, who founded the current monastery at the beginning of the 8th century. The nearest of the islands was then named after St. Michael, and the former name of the first, Tombelin, was transferred to the second. Although sometimes the names of the islands are translated as "grave" and "little grave", but perhaps this is due to the death of sailors in the constantly breathing tides of the sea.
In the 9th century, the Vikings landed on the island. They sought shelter for their ships during pirate raids, and met monks. They were surprised: what do people do on an impregnable and bare mountain? They answered that they serve Christ. To the question “who protects them? The monks answered "Saint Michael". The pagan Vikings did not understand and promised to destroy this place. A hundred years later they themselves submitted to the same god.
Rollo helped build the church on the mountain, making donations for the temple and the bell tower, which was named after him. The monastery becomes the western stronghold of Normandy (in the east it is protected by the already mentioned monastery of the Holy Trinity in Fé camp).
During the Hundred Years War, the island of St. Michael remained uncaptured. The Bretons began a guerrilla war against the British. The monastery turned into a fortress that resisted the invaders. Here appears the figure of one remarkable personality in the history of France - Bertrand du Guesclin. In those days, he was the captain of Pontorson and Mount Saint-Michel, built a house on the island for his wife (now there is a museum of the constable). During the war, this Breton sided with France, swore to serve its king (and Brittany was not yet part of France, it was an independent duchy). Maybe the archangel Michael, the leader of the holy host, made du Guesclin the knight-protector of France for his whole life?
Michael appeared to Joan of Arc. When the era of chivalry ended, the monastery ceased to be an inspirer, and the Archangel Michael ceased to appear to monks and believers and perform miracles. Louis XI tried to create a knightly order of St. Michael. But the idea turned out to be stillborn. The last king to visit the monastery was Charles IX (under whom there was Bartholomew's Night). Louis XIV is already making a prison here. And the whole island becomes a prison later and remains so for quite a long time - until the end of the 19th century. Then there was a long restoration. In 1965 the monks again settled on the island.
Now I'll tell you in order of what you can see today. The bus remains in the parking lot. Next we went to the tourist information center. There are toilets, lockers, a hotel for animals (they are not allowed on the island), you can take different booklets.
A shuttle stops nearby, which brings you to the dam that today connects the mainland and the island.
The fortress walls along the foot of the mountain appeared mainly in the 15th century. The entrance to the abbey is from the south side through the Approach or Avanse gate (tourist office on the left). Behind them are English cannons from the Hundred Years War. To the right, up and to the north, Bolshaya Street goes - the only street of the settlement at the foot. There are two more gates. The coat of arms of the abbey - salmon swimming in a wavy field - at the King's gate, on which the portcullis and drawbridge have been preserved. Old houses: Arcade house with a tower; hotel "Unicorn" with a bridge covered with chestnut tiles - the Artichoke House; hotel-restaurant "Siren", lined with wood. At the end - the parish church of St. Peter - the patron saint of sailors with a cemetery.
Entrance to the abbey from the east side.
A steep staircase called the “Abyss” leads to it, the so-called “little castle” is visible above the entrance (it has a striped masonry of two small round towers). Next is the Guards Hall. There we were given pieces of paper with an accompanying text: the guide cannot lead an excursion on the territory, there are their own in English and French.
The next steep inner staircase "inner Great Ascent" leads to the church. It runs along the south side of the island past the premises of the abbey closed to tourists, the administration on one side; on the other, the cisterns for collecting rainwater are visible: "du Sollier" and the cistern of the House of Alms (on the right). Further - access to the lower terrace of Sau-Gaultier, from which Couesnon, the border of Normandy and Brittany, the dam on the river, and, if you raise your head up, St. Michael on the church, are clearly visible.
Ascent to the Western platform - and you are in front of the entrance to the church, at the very top.
From this site, almost the entire bay of Saint-Michel is visible. Part of the church was demolished in the 18th century after a fire; this can be seen from the different levels of the area. The facade of the church is classical of the same time. Inside, the right (southern) wall is older than the 11th century, the left (northern) wall was rebuilt after the collapse in the 12th century. The choir stalls also collapsed, so they were rebuilt in the 15th-16th centuries in the Gothic style. The church has three bas-reliefs, two Renaissance gates. There are several other antiquities: the statue of St. Ober (on the right, in the southern part of the transept), a statue of the Virgin of the 13th century. (left, in the northern part), a statue of St. Michael (in the middle of the cross on the left).
Further, transitions from hall to hall are carried out, as it were, around the mountain, clockwise, gradually going down.
The Dortoire (the former bedroom of the monks, to the left of the central nave) now houses a bookshop. Part of it collapsed along with the northern wall, the room became smaller.
Next exit to the cloister.
It seemed to me the most beautiful part of the abbey, and there I spent the most time. This courtyard is located on the top floor of the so-called "Miracle" (the upper level, symbolizing the monks praying to God for all earthly creatures in the system of the medieval world order). The bay is visible through the glazed openings. From there you can also see huge chimneys coming out of the Guest Hall (east side). Here you need to pay attention to the wooden ceilings of the galleries; columns standing in a checkerboard pattern (some of them are old, reddish ones are later); ornaments above the arches (part destroyed during the revolution).
In the eastern part of the cloister, the door to the Refectory of the monks (Refectory) is also part of the "Miracle", the top floor. This hall has many narrow windows cutting through the wall. They gently illuminate it and are not visible from the entrance.
Go down the stairs to the Guest Hall under the Refectory (the next level of the "Miracle"). There are huge fireplaces here.
Previously, in this part of the room there was a kitchen, separated by tapestries. This hall served to receive eminent guests of the abbey.
Further transition to the Crypt of thick pillars. It is the basis for the choir of the church, i. e. the thick columns of the crypt hold it. Part of the premises of this floor is closed for tourists. Only participants of conferences can get there.
Further transition to the Crypt of St. Martin. It is located under the south transept of the church and supports it.
Ossuary - an ancient monastery cemetery - under the Great Rise and the Sau-Goltier terrace. Now there are no bones in it, but there is a huge wheel. It was installed in the 19th century, when there was a prison in the abbey to raise food for prisoners. This is a copy of a wheel used for the same purpose in the Middle Ages.
Next - the chapel of St. Etienne, where they used to bury the dead. It was located between the infirmary (collapsed in the 19th century) and the cemetery.
Further along the North-South stairs you can get to the Promenoir (walking hall) of the monks. It is located under a modern bookshop (in the former dormitory of the monks). The name is approximate, because it was believed that the monks walked here, that is, there was a cloister here before the construction of what exists now above.
Then we pass into the Hall of the Knights (located under the cloister in the "Miracle", symbolizing the army in the three-level structure of the world of that time). It was believed that the hall was named after the Order of St. Michael, but this order never met in the abbey. Here the monks next to the fireplaces copied manuscripts in good light.
The next hall is the Alms Hall, located under the Guest Hall. Here the monks received pilgrims, lowered them food from the kitchen. Now there is a bookstore here.
Even further away is the pantry. It is located under the cloister and symbolizes the lower level of the world order - the simplest and most ordinary.
The hall is located in the north, there are practically no windows. It's cold and damp here. Products were delivered by sea, then they were lifted with the help of a wheel that once existed here.
Next, visitors exit the premises into the northern gardens and again approach the staircase, which is called the "Abyss".
In summer, the abbey is open from 9.00 to 19.00; in winter - from 9.30 to 18. Changes are possible in case of high tides. The abbey's website publishes a tide schedule, which is worth checking out if you're planning a solo trip. Entrance - an average of 9 euros (depending on age and features of the visit). Tickets are only sold at the abbey.
Mass in the abbey takes place on all days except Monday - at noon, on Sunday - at 11.15.
There are several museums on the Grand Street: archaeological, historical, sea and ecology (marine), the house of the constable du Guesclin and his wife Tiffany.
Translated automatically from Russian. View original

Comments (11) leave a comment
PLACES NEARBY
QUESTION-ANSWER
No questions