Are you going to spend a vacation in the Crimea? Are you waiting there? (Continuation).
(History of the journey).
Start here.
http://www.turpravda.com/uc/privetnoe/blog-111027.html
Not being a representative of "enlightenment philosophy" and not claiming the laurels of Alexander Nikolayevich Radishchev, I must state the fact that the trip to the country "Nyash-Myash" (the peninsula "Krymnash") still took place, which will be discussed in this post.
In the process of writing, for some reason, there was a desire to somehow structure the narrative. Most likely, because some information can be not only informative, but also practically applicable for those who are just planning a trip to the Crimea.
(In preparation for the trip, the materials of the resource Lukas Tour Travel Club. Highly recommended. )
So.
I will allow myself a few fundamental answers to burning questions, based on the impressions received and meaningful after visiting the peninsula.
1. Is Crimea ours?
- Yes. It is formally, factually, ideologically and spiritually a Russian region.
2. Is traveling around Crimea safe?
— Absolutely.
3. How do locals treat tourists?
— Friendly and interested.
4. What kind of transport is better to go to Crimea?
— More economical and more interesting by car. (I have experience with air travel and bus marches).
5. What is the condition of roads in Crimea?
- The condition of the main roads is quite tolerable. Problematic section Kerch - Feodosiya (under repair).
6. What is the price level in Crimea?
- Moscow prices. Bargain. Look for an alternative. Gasoline is more expensive.
7. How does the crossing (ferry) work?
- Organization of the crossing at a sufficiently high level. If there is no wind and local influx of transport (normal operation) - 1 hour. Be sure to purchase e-tickets. This saves a lot of time.
8. What is the level of service, improvement and maintenance in Crimea?
Forget it for a while! Tse, not Europe. Focus on the unique climate, nature and sights.
9. Where in Crimea to choose a place for a long and short vacation?
- For a long vacation, it is better to choose a place in advance (thematic sites and recommendations from tourists). Be safe with Booking. And for spending the night there are campsites on the coast, and private traders offer from cottages to apartments en masse along all routes.
10. Attractions. What to see in Crimea?
Crimea is a centuries-old history of the Russian state and not only. Therefore, memorable places and architecture from antiquity to the present are all at your service. Do not forget about the unique natural sites of the peninsula. As a rule, all sights are concentrated on the Pulp and Paper Mill (the central coast of Crimea).
11. How do traffic police officers behave?
- The facts of fraud and extortion have not been identified. Provide assistance.
There are many stationary cameras on the M4 Don highway. In the Kuban they “tripod”, in the Crimea they catch on a “hair dryer”, because. there are practically no stationary cameras there.
Particular attention should be paid to the speed limit, overtaking rules, crossings and roundabouts.
12. How to pay for purchases and services in Crimea?
— Today, only cash and Mastercard. There are ATMs in major cities.
13. What is the quality of mobile communication and Internet?
- There is a connection, but not everywhere. It is cheaper to get a local MTS or your own home MTS with the corresponding connected service. The Internet is half dead.
Departure.
The first day of the journey.
08/14/2015.06:00, Moscow, Teply Stan.
We left exactly at 06:00 Moscow time.
It was decided that we were going on the "Cherny" - on Kashak - because, faster than the "Red", and relied on the proper road surface not only for the M4 Don, but also for the territory, according to Uncle Vova, "returned to its native harbor", i. e. e. Crimea.
I am the pilot, the shift navigators are my wife and daughter.
Road.
At 06.15 we leave for the M4. We fill up a full tank at BP (21 km). They have a 5% discount promotion. Nishtyak…
We go on the M4. We go through the payment of paid sections for 10-15 minutes. The road surface is normal. Maximum speed - 140. Average - 85 (graze-devour). A radar detector and a program on a tablet help to escape from cameras - Mapcam. info.
BP M4 Don gas station (21 km)
At 12:00 we pass Voronezh. According to my estimates, 500 km in 6 hours is quite good. This is the territory of the Moscow, Tula, Lipetsk, and part of the Voronezh regions.
Paid sections are on this segment of the route. There are six of them so far, but new ones are being built. On the way “there”, I didn’t calculate the consumption, but it turned out to be a little less, because. we passed the first two sections at the "night" rate (until 09:00). The road "back" was paid at the "day" rate and amounted to 390.00 rubles.
Toll terminal.
At the end of the Voronezh region, in the area of Losevo - Pavlovsk, hellish hell begins! Well, that's relative to the whole old road.
There is one lane in each direction. They are trying to expand to two and lay new asphalt. Judging by the heaps of sand, which are abundantly overgrown with weeds, work here has been carried out with philosophical slowness and not for the first year.
For three tens of kilometers, the road workers, as usual, kick, puzoterki, respectively, go to the side of the road, and truckers begin to “treat” them by blocking the road.
From 40 minutes to 1 hour here you can lose, from the estimated time.
Section of the Losevo-Pavlovsk road.
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It should be noted that Lukoil rules the entire M4 highway. There are, of course, "incomprehensible gas stations", but we did not use their services.
At the 720th km there is a pretentious Lukoil, where you can refuel, take care of natural needs in comfortable conditions, eat at a local cafe, or book a table with your grubs.
I recommend.
Here was our second gas station.
MFZ Lukoil M4 Don 720 km.
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Roads in the Rostov region are quite decent.
At 18:00 we arrived in the suburbs of Rostov-on-Don, in the village of Krasny Kolos, at the Meridian Yug hotel.
A very good 3-bed room was ordered in advance, through Booking, for 2600 (room) + 100 (parking) rubles. Expensive, of course, but everyone had a good rest, took a shower and slept well before the second day of the trip.
By the way, Rostov-on-Don is the best place to spend the night after a 1000-kilometer run. I highly recommend stationary rest.
Meridian South Hotel. Pos. Red Ear.
The second day of the journey.
08/15/2015.05:30, Krasny Kolos, Meridian South Hotel.
We left as early as possible, because. according to electronic tickets for the ferry, our time slot corresponded to the 11:00 - 19:00 time interval, and according to the conditions of the crossing, you must arrive 3 hours before the end. Moreover, the road is not known to us, we had to go more than 400 km, there are areas for repair work, and you never know...
Let's go to the detour of Rostov-on-Don through Aksai to Bataysk, i. е. did not leave the M4 highway.
From Bataysk to Tsukerova Balka, where a well-known traffic police post is located on the border of the Rostov Region and the Krasnodar Territory, we get the “second series” of hellish hell! Repair work is going on. Despite the early morning, our direction is barely moving, the oncoming lane is dead. Well, as usual, long-range fighters “treat”, and scumbags and morons with a residence permit 61.161, 23.93, 123 region raise clouds of dust along the roadsides and “understudies” rolled along the country road, cut, throw all kinds of shit out of the windows, etc. In general, a full bouquet of automotive rudeness.
Either local humor, or a free interpretation of the author's text, or someone offended …
By the way, this was not the case in Moscow, Tula, Lipetsk and Voronezh regions. Tolley God spared us from such meetings, or local rednecks bypass payers. Participants in the movement from other regions behave politely and correctly. Even some truckers move to the side of the road to let faster traffic pass.
And one more observation. From Rostov to the village of Golubitskaya, on average, there are 2 crosses with plastic wreaths per 1 km of the road. Obviously, and very revealing. . .
Behind the traffic police post in Zukerova Balka, the road situation has returned to normal - the track is free, dry, clear, in some areas it can be flooded. But the cameras had to be monitored relentlessly!
We passed the village of Kushchevskaya, known throughout the country. Behind the river Kavalerka, after the first turn to the village of Kislyakovskaya, there is a denouement. We leave to the right. At this stage of the second day of the journey, we say goodbye to the M4 Don highway.
DPS post in Zukerova Balka.
Further, our route from Kislyakovskaya lies through the villages of Leningradskaya, Kanevskaya, Bryukhovetskaya, the city of Timashevsk, Starovelichkovskaya, Staronizhesteblievskaya, Poltavskaya, in the Telegin area we exit onto the P251 highway (Temryuk-Krasnodar-Kropotkin), Slavyansk-on-Kuban, Temryuk, Golubitskaya , Ilyich, Port Kavkaz.
We pass the endless fields of the Kuban. Sunflower harvesting.
This is one of the routes from the M4 to the ferry.
Alternatively, you can leave Rostov-on-Don for Azov, and go through Starominskaya to Kanevskaya (further along the route described above). But, according to rumors, the roads are worse there.
You can leave the M4 to the right in front of Korenovsk, through Dyadkovskaya to Timashevsk (further along the route described above).
And you can get to Krasnodar, and then along the P251 highway. But in the extreme two options, there may be traffic jams and areas with repairs.
Based on these considerations, the road to the Crimea and back was passed through the village of Kislyakovskaya. Our choice fully justified itself. And except for a small brake at the railway crossing in Timashevsk, everything went smoothly, in accordance with the estimated time.
Railway crossing in Timashevsk.
At 12:00 we drive to Golubitskaya.
I want to pay special attention to the fact that in Golubitskaya there is the last gas station of Lukoil! Moreover, you can pay by card. We fill a full tank, empty our “tanks”, eat ice cream. By the way, the toilet at the gas station is extremely well-groomed. And the ice cream turned out to be very useful, because the thermometer reads +36.
Lukoil gas station in Golubitskaya.
At 13:20 we drive into the first sump in the village of Ilyich. We present electronic tickets, out of turn we go to the second sedimentation tank in Port Kavkaz.
We did not have time for the departing ferry, we are waiting for the next one. We load for an hour, there are a lot of trucks on our ferry.
At 16:00 we unloaded at the port of Crimea.
Port of the Caucasus. Ferry.
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The roadbed in Kerch and on the Kerch-Feodosia highway (E97) is completely killed! Pits in the city, on the main street, up to 30 cm deep!
From Kerch to Feodosia, we experienced a very unpleasant and incomprehensible phenomenon - the lack of mobile communications and a categorical refusal to operate several navigation systems. Nissan Connect, bitch, did not recognize our presence on the territory of the Russian Federation.
There are practically no signs in Kerch, and those that are are located above the roadway and are hidden in the foliage of trees. Somehow (intuitively) we went to the track, saw the sign "Simferopol" and calmed down a little, because. it is impossible to get to Simferopol without passing through Feodosia. Well, except for back roads.
The track is already being repaired, there are sections with reverse, where you can lose 15-20 minutes, passing the oncoming traffic.
Since the route passes through the “steppe Crimea”, there are well-visible straight sections of the road where you can make up for lost time leaving the city and standing on the repaired sections.
Repair of the Kerch-Feodosia highway.
At about 18:00 we drive into Feodosia. We pass a small section of the path from Feodosia to the settlement "Nasypnoye" along the P23 highway. In Bulk, at the T-shaped intersection, we leave to the left, onto the P29 highway. This route runs along the eastern part of the Crimean coast through Koktebel, Sudak, Morskoye, Privetnoye, Kanak, Rybachye, Solnechnogorskoye, Malorechenskoye, Semidvorye and Alushta. We are not turning anywhere from it, because. Kanaka (Kanakskaya gully) is the goal of our two-day trip.
Evening in the mountains.
In Feodosia, the "steppe Crimea" somehow abruptly turns into a "mountainous" one. From Bulk, straight and well-visible sections of the road turn into a serpentine, which passes through the densely growing green. Speed from 40 to 60 km/h no more. The road surface is very poor. Local "Cossacks" on "kopecks" and 412 Muscovites mercilessly "punish" our Kashak, and, having doused the burnt-out pistons with gray smoke, hide behind the nearest turn. The sun in the west touched the crest of the Crimean mountains. It got colder up to +22 degrees. Fog crept over the gorges. Twilight began to thicken. . .
At 19:00 we pass Sudak. Kanaki is about 40 kilometers away.
At 20:00 in pitch darkness we drive into Kanaka...
Kanaka in the evening.
P. S. The next post will be devoted to living conditions in the resort area of Crimea, prices and service.
