Hello again, Crimea!
Who is talking about what, but naked about the bath.
Nervous and puritans should not read this.
I will write long and tedious. However, as always.
The trip didn't go well! For the first time in many years. I didn’t even want to write, but egged on by some comrades who claimed that I was already kind of obliged, I decided.
But first things first. Salaries do not get higher, and vacations in November are sacred, and in the summer you can also have a good time at home. In short, we weren't going anywhere. But then we had a significant occasion, and we, sitting on the shores of our native Azov Sea, drank a bottle of Novosvet champagne. After that, I wildly wanted to go to the Crimea. And why, in fact, not? How much of that life! And I have rubles, back to back, but left, just for an extra-budget trip with a tent. And yes, I have allergies! Gotta go!
That's it! The idea that arose in the clouded brain of champagne, sat down firmly. Then there were, however, provocations. First, my daughter left on a super-burning ticket to Montenegro - she bought it in the afternoon, left in the evening. Then I found a last minute ticket to Turkey. And, too, wildly wanted at least there, at least here. But, firstly, for all the seeming cheapness, the budget of both options was at least three times higher than the Crimean one, and secondly, the hotel in Turkey turned out to be hyper-crap. And in Montenegro + 45! It's too much even for me. In general, we decided not to show off and stop at the original version.
So, we are going to the Crimea. As Kolya rightly noted, you need to save on things that are not essential for you, but then you can show off with the money saved. Such an insignificant point for us is the presence of a roof over your head in the warm season, on which you can save a lot. But cheap, at first glance, rest, at the initial stage, requires significant investment. In order to merge with nature as much as possible, you need to have a lot of rather expensive things - backpacks, a tent, sleeping bags, karimats, an air mattress, and so on trifles. Since we are experienced tourists, we already had all this. Moreover, many things were donated to the DR. And what, than giving all sorts of crap, isn't it better to make a person happy with a really necessary thing? So I was presented with a good expensive backpack. And for our friend's 50th birthday, we gave a three-seater tent, which we later used more often than he did, because our tent, which I, in turn, gave to my friend, was simply huge, and was only suitable for traveling by car. And we won some bells and whistles. So, for example, I won a travel purse with many pockets, which has been absolutely indispensable for several years now, in which I keep passports and money, and which is worn over my shoulder or on a trouser belt. And I won it (you won't believe it) at the city championship in giant slalom! The slalom was really gigantic (200 meters), and there were already two participants in my weight category - me and the wife of the owner of the slide. Well, she, essno, in the mountains is incomparably more often than me and, accordingly, she rides better, so she won first place, and I took second, for which I received a prize. Among the male participants, there were two orders of magnitude more, and the cute prize did not go to : (((((. But in the climbing championship he had no equal, having covered the distance faster than anyone else and leaving much younger rivals behind in his half a century, he won a cool thing - a very compact gas stove, which is screwed onto a small gas cartridge. Very convenient. Previously, he had to carry in his backpack, among other things, also a five-liter cylinder with a not-so-small stove. My man still wow! : )))))
The beach we always stopped at near the New World was called the Beach of Love, because two pistachio trees once grew on the cliff, the shape surprisingly resembling a female and male figure with characteristic growths in their respective places. They were called Adam and Eve. Unfortunately, I didn’t catch them anymore - storms and downpours did their dirty work and both trees collapsed from the cliff. First one, then another. But the sweetheart was lucky enough to catch one of them. Photos of these trees can still be found in the art gallery on the Novy Svet embankment. And the beach is also famous for the fact that once the notorious Professor Charkovsky took birth in the water there.
The beach was nudist from time immemorial, and at one time the entrance to it was decorated with a sign with the motto - "Leave your clothes, everyone who enters here. " However, no one was forcing anyone to do anything. If you don't want to undress, it's up to you. It’s just that swimwear was considered bad manners there. When I got there for the first time, I somehow immediately fit into the landscape so organically (there will be no boring pictures, and don’t dream! ). Just sitting in a wet bathing suit, even in the heat, is very unpleasant for me. Yes, and the body is breathing deeply!
And what interesting people we met there! One summer there was a yogi, a very interesting man of about forty, with his students. He stood on his head every morning. And once dolphins sailed into the bay, came very close to the shore. So this yogi began to communicate with them, making some strange sounds! Do not believe it - the dolphins answered him, and one stuck his tail out of the water and waved at them! Just some kind of miracle!
People came here from God knows what distance. Some lived all summer, some with tiny children. It was just scary to watch these crumbs hobble over large pebbles. And nothing, they grew up, and their parents came next year with the addition of a family! And the old-timers also said that they watched a truly unforgettable sight here - a nudist wedding! Imagine a picture - a completely naked bride in a veil! And also, accordingly, the naked groom and guests who arranged a grandiose photo shoot!
Woke up one morning on the day of departure to find that a new group had arrived at night. It turned out to be real, not like us, seasoned nudists from Kazan, without a single light stripe on the body. Middle age, quite intelligent appearance. Not knowing that we were already leaving, and not accepting our protests, they began to treat us with port wine, after which they offered to take a picture together (naked, of course)! We barely got away, citing the fact that we do not have an e-mail to which they wanted to send us pictures. At that time, we really didn’t have it yet.
The disadvantage of the beach for me is that during the day it was just hellish hell! Hell! A stone bag bursting with heat. As soon as the sun came out from behind the mountain, it became very warm (at 7 o'clock). And the shadow from Mount Sokol crept here at five o'clock in the evening. In this interval, I simply cannot be there, unless I get out of the water. Yes, and sitting in one place is beyond my strength. Therefore, after breakfast, we always went for a walk either to Sudak, or to the New World, or to the mountains. We returned when it was already possible to be on the beach. When it got dark, we went to bed. And this is where the second drawback began - the people began to bunch up and play music under the vino. Sometimes they were tam-toms, sometimes guitars, and once there lived a whole orchestra with a saxophone. They played and sang very beautifully, and I love this business very much, but I love sleeping even more! In general, if it’s good not to get bogged down in the evening, a sleepless night is guaranteed. However, the year did not fall on the year, and the contingent was constantly changing, and sometimes it was quiet. On our last visit, the company we had was quite large, and I even tried to build the rest. A group of youngsters, who arrived the day before, arranged a noisy celebration of arrival under a tape recorder, calmed down, promising them a cheerful wake-up call at dawn. And so we usually try not to make noise in the morning, respecting the sleep of others. But, if we were quiet, this does not mean at all that there is no one else to make noise on the beach. As soon as it began to turn gray, the seagulls, sitting on a stone somewhere nearby, began to yell in bad voices, as if they were giving birth. And how you can sleep at the same time, I don’t understand at all!
The rules on the beach were as follows: since this is the territory of a botanical reserve, the entrance here was paid. The forester came every day and collected bribes both from us (the residents) and from day visitors who stopped in the village, but came here to be forced. The forester was loyal to us, and took the amount not fixed, but depending on the ability to negotiate, and immediately for the entire stay. For our part, we undertook to take out garbage from the beach (both our own and someone else's), not to burn fires, and in general, not to disturb the riots. Recently, tents were forced to be lowered for the day for decency. But from one-day trips, the forester thrashed to the fullest, issuing, however, tickets to them. And we tickets, essno, did not rely. With these tickets it was possible to visit, for example, Karaul-Oba on the same day. And this, I think, was right, because these stray guests of the beach, as a rule, did not differ in special cleanliness, and threw their garbage either directly on the beach, or somewhere along the road. I'm already silent about cigarette butts.
In general, there was a world of its own, living by its own laws.
In the current situation, there is, nevertheless, one plus - not the slightest problem with transport. To leave for the Crimea now, it is enough to call a day or two in advance and book a place for yourself. Can't go - no financial loss. Before, everything was much sadder - you had to buy a train ticket a month and a half in advance, and if you didn’t come to the ticket office for opening, you risked, at best, riding on the top shelf by the toilet. Well, yes, I think you know. True, now the prices are completely different.
So, tickets were not ordered until the last - they still doubted. Moreover, the darling fell ill - somewhere he got through the most harmful, apart from the atomic bomb, idiotic invention called air conditioning. The poor thing complained of an ache in the lower back, and, it seems, had a slight fever. But with great difficulty, it was a pity to lose the week of vacation he had knocked out, so they decided to go anyway. (As it turned out, in vain).
The road passed without the slightest problem, more smoothly than in May. The bus was almost never stopped at checkpoints. The border, despite the many pedestrian people eager to get to the peninsula, passed in 1 hour and 15 minutes. I was worried that the border guards, who saw our backpacks, would have any questions for us. But I was worried in vain. The Ukrainian border guard asked, for some reason, if we also had a guitar : ))))))). The Russians had no questions at all. And the customs officer there generally spat at the ceiling, and didn’t even ask anyone if they were carrying anything illegal? And there were plenty of backpackers like us. But those traveling by car had problems. More than 100 cars lined up in no man's land. They were released from Ukraine, but for some reason they were in no hurry to let them into Crimea. It seems that their computer base has crashed.
At half past five we were already in Symfi. The bus to Sudak runs every fifteen minutes, and at seven we were in Sudak. Before leaving, I was worried that we would not have time to get to the beach before dark, because the minibus to the New World only runs in the light - there is a terrible serpentine. But everything worked out well. The bus also runs every fifteen minutes. At seven o'clock we got into a minibus, the driver of which took 11 rubles from us, without even starting to demand money for luggage (and before they always strove to slander). Leaving the bus, they closed their eyes with happiness - the juniper smell, the chirping of cicadas! It's like you're back home! Harnessed in backpacks, we moved along the road, not noticing anything around us from the euphoria that gripped us. And then, out of nowhere, we were hailed by two foresters, who had grown as if out of the ground. From a conversation with them, it turned out that now there are new orders on the beach - you can’t put up tents at all! Fine - 3000 r. What should we do, we asked. Drive either under Megan or Veseloe. Well, we said we'd spend the night here and then we'll see. Seeing that we were not particularly frightened, they told us a horror story that in the middle of the night border guards might still come and draw up a protocol against us, otherwise they would take us with them. Having said that everyone understood, we said goodbye to them.
That's it! Our little world is destroyed!
Going down to the beach next to ours, we found several groups of people. We asked them if what the foresters said was true? That's true. But they, nevertheless, at their own peril and risk put up tents for the night, and clean them up early in the morning. One family arrived with three small children and they simply had nowhere to go. Having moved to their beach, they found it almost empty. There was only a couple from Simferopol and a group of teenage boys. Simferopol residents did not know anything about the innovations and were going to burn a fire. I dissuaded them.
We also met a local resident who came to the spring for water. I forgot to say that our beach is also unique in the presence of a spring with very tasty sweetish water. The peasant told us that the artist from Feodosia, who lived for years all summer on the site above the beach in the shade of pine trees, was still fined 3000 rubles! Mayhem! At the same time, they do not take bribes, but draw up a protocol, which, if not paid, is sent to court. But now you can come to the beach during the day and sausage for free as much as you like, leaving behind garbage and gobies. And put up a tent for no reason! Where these innovations will lead in a couple of years is quite obvious. By the way, the beach has never been so littered.
Having settled down in a trump spot, which was simply unrealistic to occupy before, we had dinner with half-eaten food on the road. By the way, in order to save money, we took 4 sticks of raw smoked and dry-cured sausage with us, which is the only one capable of living without a refrigerator, and which costs just space money here. They also took 2.5 liters of cognac, 5 cans of canned fish and some buckwheat and oatmeal. Of course, we did not set up a tent, and even decided not to get a mattress, but to limit ourselves to rugs and sleeping bags. A Simferopol resident came up and said that he had shot fish and would like to cook it, but he didn’t have a stove. There is a gas cylinder, but there is no stove. But he had a five-liter cylinder, and our miracle stove did not fit him. He also had a kerosene stove, but no kerosene. Well done man! We offered him our stove along with our own spray can, but he didn’t take it, what if we don’t have enough gas! Okay, he says, now I’m driving to the village, I’ll buy gasoline from taxi drivers. Gone. We exchanged glances. It was already too late for trips along the serpentine, and whether taxi drivers stand there at night, the question is.
After drinking cognac, they began to look at life from a different angle. And what kind of protocol will they draw up? Where are they going to send him? What kind of court? To Ukraine? Ha ha ha!
We waited for the moon to rise. The day before, there had been a full moon. We climbed into the sea to swim in the lunar path. The sea shone with large particles. Beautiful! Ours doesn't light up like that. Finely phosphorescent. The backlit surf is especially beautiful. I would still swim, but the poor fellow's cold back muscles began to reduce, despite the fact that the water was quite warm - 25 degrees. We went to bed. Spending the night under the starry sky is such a delight! I saw a UFO. Showed my dear. He said it was a satellite. Well, of course! For a satellite, it is too large, and it moves very quickly. Well, UFO, so UFO! A few years ago, by the way, our acquaintances said that they also saw him in the New World, moreover, in daylight and in the company of many people. We then asked how much champagne they drank?
In the open air, it's good, but without a mattress - not very much. Thin rugs did not save from hard pebbles. And the cute one also has a backache! And a gusty wind began to pick up. At times, I thought that I would be blown away nafig together with a sleeping bag in the sea. Well, at least the wind was from the shore, so the wave did not stir. But no one yells!
Somehow we got up at dawn and began to think what to do next. It's not worth joking with the authorities, though. And it’s completely impossible to live on the beach due to the lack of permanent residents on whom junk could be dumped. I came up with the idea of making friends with a local resident I met the day before and, leaving my backpacks with him, go under Megan to see how things are going there. I carried out my plan brilliantly. As soon as the peasant went down for water, I immediately charmed him and casually asked him to leave his backpacks, to which he happily agreed.
Despite the malaise of the dodyazhki, we decided to go on foot. Nothing to be fooled! I don't give up on myself or others. Before, it happened that I was very unwell, but this is not a reason to relax at all! Get up and go!
6 km to Sudak. Came at half past ten. On the way from the fortress to the embankment, we went to a shop where we found a relatively inexpensive (40 rubles per glass) beer, as well as cider, which I had never tasted. Since I still don't drink beer, I wanted to buy a beer for a man and a cider for myself. But the saleswoman shook her head and pointed to her watch—it was too early! Pah you! Okay, let's move on. There were plenty of people, both on the beach and defiling along the promenade, unlike in May. And it barely struck 10, all the people, as if on command, were already with glasses in their hands. It reminded me a lot of all-inclusive in Egypt : ))))).
But that was in May. And now it was August and in Kapselskaya Bay at the foot of Meganom there was nowhere for an apple to fall. Lots of cars and tents. And I really didn't want to move here. And water here could only be obtained in a store. And it costs, for a minute, 50 rubles. for a half. This is enough for us for a couple of hours. Beer costs, on average, 60 rubles per glass, kvass - 50! Well, you can go broke on some drinks. And you want to drink brutally in the summer in Crimea! At home, I drink very little water. I know what I need, but I don't want to. Often, you have to force yourself. Moreover, it turned out that the minibus does not go here now. 25 kilometers traveled for a sore back dear were the limit today, so we could no longer go further to Meganom itself, or go back on foot. Having rested a little in a cafe, we moved to the stop of the minibus Solnechnaya Dolina - Sudak. We had to trudge another kilometer and a half to it and cuckoo for half an hour while waiting for the bus, which runs about every two hours.
We dined in a cleverly located, very cheap, but at the same time very decent place. We, being a hundred times in Sudak, did not even suspect its existence, despite the fact that the cafe is located in the very center of Sudak's life - next to Cypress Alley. The coordinates were given to us by a friend during our last visit. Under the roof, but outdoors. Despite the large flow of hungry people, there are always free tables. You pay at the checkout, and literally five minutes later your order is brought to you. I didn’t see cheaper prices - I specifically looked at the menus of other establishments posted next to them. The prices were much higher! The place is called East. For example, lagman here costs 75 rubles, and borscht - 30. For comparison, the cheapest place in the New World is the factory canteen of a sparkling wine factory with the name "USSR" forbidden in our country. There, borscht, which you can take after standing in a decent queue, costs 50 rubles, while sour cream is sold separately (in the previous case, sour cream was included in the package). Then you still have to clean up the dishes (well, at least you don’t need to wash them). And in the East, boys and girls rustle, and there are no queues. But there are impudent sparrows eating up from plates that have not yet been cleaned. It was so cool to watch them! Just like in Sharm El Sheikh!
I will write more on Monday.
