Lost heaven. Myths and reality. Part 2
To be continued. Start here:
On the third day, we had planned, again, a light walk through the gorge of three mountains. We took the 44th bus to the village of Dolossy, also called Yalta Rublyovka. Usually, we immediately descended from the village into the gorge and at an unhurried pace overcame the route for about two hours, taking pictures and swimming in a waterfall. This time, having decided that they wanted something new, they took us higher up the mountain. Having passed along a fairly wide path, completely strewn with cones, we came to some kind of asphalt road. We walked along it for a while. But, seeing that it was turning 180 degrees, they decided to take a shortcut and fray between the serpentine loops through the forest. Several times we met feeders with hay and lumps of salt, and no wonder - this is all the territory of the reserve. Having got out once again on the road, we found a convenient descent into the gorge and a sign with the name "Uch-kosh". We decided that this is the name of the mountain, by analogy with Roman-kosh (the highest mountain of Crimea), and that the road leads there. Therefore, we decided to try to climb, the gorge will wait. And, as you remember, the walk was supposed to be short, so we didn’t have any snacks with us, there was only a liter bottle of water. On the occasion of sunny weather, I was dressed quite lightly - in knee-length pants and a windbreaker. And the mountains are getting higher, and the mountains are getting steeper… Deciding to cut off once again, we lost the track. She went somewhere to the right, and we were irresistibly drawn to the left, where snow was white on the top of the plateau. The views were one more beautiful than the other. And then, as luck would have it, the batteries on the fotik sat down. I had to take a picture with my phone. The slope became quite steep, everything that I clung to, a pebble or a twig, often remained in my hands, and I risked falling, to a crazy hair dryer, into the abyss. And then, inappropriately, the phone rang at the sweetheart. I began to squeal not to take it, but rather helped me overcome a difficult section. Somehow we got to a more or less safe place. It was already too late to go back, and it was still not close to the top, although, it would seem, here it is! The water was already all drunk. A quiet panic began to overwhelm me. Without water and food, you can still stretch for some time, but we didn’t even have matches with us, since we are non-smokers and if we get lost, then at night we will stupidly freeze. And then, from somewhere above, suspicious sounds began to be heard. It remains only to meet wild boars! A snowball began to appear in the hollows, on which there were traces of hooves, thank God, not boars.
By noon, we finally climbed onto the plateau and saw, lo and behold, the road! Hooray, saved! It took us 3 hours to get up. Ai-Petri Observatory was seen in the distance on one side, and the pavilion of the winds on the other. From it (from the gazebo), they say, a drop-dead panorama opens up, but since we still don’t know how much to go down, we didn’t go there, but went along the road, which in some places was still completely swept up by snow. Taking off her hated sneakers, she happily ran through the snow with her poor rubbed feet. After walking a little, we found a column with a ball at the end, like a globe, and a sign from which it was clear that this was the highest point of the road - Nikitsky Pass (1118 m). Ayu-dag loomed between the mountains. This is what we got! No one anywhere! In one place, traces of the car were visible, which sat on its belly in the snow and, apparently, did not go further. Beauties! Not yet fully bloomed snowdrops, crocuses, sleep-grass, primroses and some other flowers. I wanted to drink, but dear snow dissuaded me from eating, supposedly it would dry it even more, and it was impossible to call it clean. In order not to miss again, we tried to follow the road, cutting off only when we clearly saw the next loop of the serpentine. We never met a single animal, fortunately, or vice versa. Only once, something rather big rushed down the slope from us, loudly stomping, however, we did not have time to consider what it was. We reached some kind of housing, called the Red Stone. Something was being built there, there were several units of construction equipment and many foresters. We wanted to ask them for water, but changed our minds, they would still arrest us. True, they did not pay any attention to us.
Judging by the kilometer posts, we waved 9 km down the road, to the place where we saw the name "Uch-kosh". There we descended, finally into the gorge. There was a lot of water here, I don't want to drink! The water flowed down in cascades and waterfalls, boiled and boiled. I read somewhere that such water is called levitated, it, mixing in a special way, acquires truly miraculous properties. So we took the opportunity to get drunk. I wanted to eat two hours ago, but now I just wanted to EAT! Water, to some extent, dulled the hunger, but not for long. And the places there are simply amazing, in beauty, almost the Grand Canyon! But I really wanted to go home, and it seemed to me that the water intake was about to begin around that turn, from where we always started our journey along the bottom of the canyon. And from there it is within easy reach of Yalta. But it just dragged on for two whole hours. The poor body, realizing the futility of its claims, fell silent, and the stomach ceased to shrink into a lump. But here I stuffed my legs thoroughly, jumping from one coast to another. Finally we reached the place where the river was stuffed into a pipe, and then the channel was dry. Walking became easier. Sometimes it was more convenient to go straight along the pipe, albeit in some places, at a decent height. But it's about half a meter thick, so if you don't get distracted, you won't fall off. The pipe vibrated under my feet, absorbing all the power of the mountain stream. After the water intake, streams gradually begin to beat from under the ground, merging again into the river. I didn’t have the conscience to swim above the water intake, I planned to swim in the waterfall downstream, but was surprised to find absolutely dry stones. Weird. I found a more or less comfortable place for swimming already quite below. We got home at 6 o’clock. I didn’t feel like going for a walk on the embankment.
"Cats are my charm! " (aria of Baba Yaga from the cartoon about Little Flour)
Six cats began to crawl into the yard. They know, the parasites, that I will fry the fish. The whole yard is strewn with kitiket, but they only ate it out of great hunger. Cats in Yalta are like uncut dogs. Our acquaintance, a local resident, said that the presence of this herd of furry animals is absolutely justified, because. they save the city from the rats that live in the river flowing in its central part. Well, I don't know, I don't know. It's hard to believe that these savage muzzles are able to get their own food. Do they need it? For many years, coming to Yalta, we observed such a picture. In the middle of the yard there are several benches firmly occupied by the cat pride. Every morning, a young woman, about 55 years old, from a nearby house, was busy shaking up the cardboard rugs on which the cats pave their asses, then she goes to the garbage dump and looks for food for them. We somehow tried to participate in feeding, took out our leftovers and wanted to give it out as it is, but the aunt took away the cat food from us, sorted it out, and only after that gave it to the beast. Another time, auntie was absent, and without asking, we threw skins from lightly salted salmon to the cats. So what? They sniffed and stared at us in bewilderment - what are you slipping us? So, I have strong doubts about rats. However, I never saw them there. And I love cats, of course, but without fanaticism. And it’s cats, and I can’t stand the vile stinkers called cats.
The legs hurt mercilessly, not so much the muscles as the soles. I found dropsy on two fingers. But I was afraid that the weather would turn bad, and then farewell to the mountains! Still going to NG, I wondered how we would not get bored. We've seen it all, and many times. I got on the Internet. Ha, I thought I knew Yalta! I don't fucking know! The Internet gave me a bunch of routes that I did not even suspect. But everything is in the mountains. Therefore, while there was sun, it was necessary to go. But today I put on warmer pants and also took matches. You never know where the hard one will take us. Today I chose the Botkin trail. It started in the area of the zoo.
Ah, the Yalta Zoo! What are there sleek and well-groomed animals! During the last visit to Yalta for the new year 2014, since we had not been for a long time, we decided to go, not stinting to pay 100 UAH from the nose. How much is now this pleasure scary to think. White tigers made a special impression. You may remember that Tymoshenko was presented with a white tiger cub, which she, in turn, gave to the Yalta Zoo. And they called him, or rather her, Tigryulya. We vaguely remembered something about this, and what was our surprise when we found as many as three hefty white tigers. And no information on the stands! On the contrary, it says that white tigers are the rarest occurrence, and they are born extremely rarely. As it turned out later, Tigryulya gave birth to four white tiger cubs. This is just a miracle! And there was a giraffe! But because of the cold weather, he was sitting in his house. A window was open on the second floor, and everyone could watch and feed him. One girl, about two or three years old, was feeding a giraffe a bun, but then, apparently, a toad crushed her, and she put this half-eaten bun into her mouth. Mom didn't even have time to yelp. We were having fun! They touched the giraffe by the horns. I thought they were soft, but they aren't! They are hard, covered with soft fur, and only the tips are bare and smooth.
Well, having passed the zoo, we found the entrance to the trail. It is quite simple, but, unlike the absolutely flat Solar Trail, it has a constant slope uphill. There are sometimes shops along the way. After spending 2 hours, we climbed it to Krestovaya Hill. Then 2 more trails departed, one on the plateau, the other - Shtangeevskaya - to Uchan-Su. We decided to leave the plateau for later, and today we went to the waterfall. It was hot and there was absolutely nobody, I wanted to undress at all, but I restrained myself by rolling up my pants and T-shirt. It took just a few minutes, and I, admiring my stomach sunken from hunger, found a suspicious brown spot with a pink border. Clearly, I caught a tick! Or rather, he me! And when did you have time? Having dug in her claws, she tore it off along with a piece of skin. Ruined my skin, such a disgusting thing! Not wanting to take any more risks, I quickly rolled everything back and preferred to take a steam bath. Encephalitis, you know, such a muck! If you are "lucky" to survive, you will simply remain a vegetable.
The Shtangeevskaya trail is cool, overhanging rocks on one side and an abyss on the other. In especially dangerous places it is fenced. We reached a river, where we refreshed ourselves. As it turned out, literally after a dozen or two meters, this river turns into a Wuchang-Su waterfall and falls almost from a height of almost a hundred meters. Made a video. Pants full of delight! We have been at the bottom of the waterfall several times, but at the top - for the first time.
Having seen enough, we went down the path to the foot of the waterfall, but did not approach, because the Kalitka cooperative worked and charged money. It seems to be 50 rubles each, it seems to be a little, but we were not interested in paying to take a hundred and forty eighth similar photo. There was no bus in sight. I had to walk again, 5 or 6 kilometers. My legs were already on fire. On the way we met a trout farm. Thought maybe the fish is cheaper here than in the market? Yep, right now! If you don't catch it, you can just buy it for 750 rubles! ! per kilo. On the market, it cost 500 rubles. We went out to the road and got on the bus. Sit on the seats and relax. And it was impossible to get up. With the grace of pregnant hippopotamuses, grunting and groaning like a grandmother getting out in front of us, we fell out of the bus. And you still need to go to the liquor! I didn’t say, but we still found two or three pieces for the whole city. One is near our house. True, the assortment was scarce, and they did not give a try. We once bought Alushta port wine there. But it was anything but him. Although it seems to be not bodyaga, and quite tasty, but not him. They remained alive and well.
Day five. I already dreamed that it would rain, so that I would not be drawn to the mountains. After looking at the forecast, we were convinced that rain should still take place, but after lunch. And before lunch, we decided to go where all normal people go, and for what everyone comes here - to the beach. Having dressed appropriately - in shorts and flip flops, we went. People have not yet figured out how to dress. There were people in boots and jackets with fur collars, but there were also “correctly” dressed comrades, like us. We went to Massandra beach, the existence of which I learned not so long ago. Previously, I naively believed that there is only one beach near the embankment. To get to Massandrovsky, you need to go not directly from the main street, but to the left. There are no boats polluting the water, and crowds floating along the embankment and staring at you. Having spread the bedding borrowed from our apartment, and having undressed, we lay down. Lying on pebbles is below average pleasure. But the weather was just a song. Not cold, but not hot either. The sun was still gentle, not burning, and there was absolutely no wind. Very comfortable and sleepy. One peasant, with his head resting on a parapet, was sleeping without hind legs, not at all caring about abandoned things. There were a lot of people, many with children. And there was also a lot of swimming, and we, of course, too, although we didn’t really want to. But you have to! We met a friend who also came from Mariupol (where else would we meet! ). She said that yesterday she was in the botanical garden, where we were going today after lunch, and where tulips were still in bloom. A friend said that the tulips are already pfft, and depicted a flying tulip. And the entrance costs 200 rubles. Yes well it then! And the tasting room, for sure, does not work, and the persimmon will ripen only in winter. What didn't we see? What shall we do then? Let's go to Alushta! We, oddly enough, were there a great many times, but only passing through. Need to fill the gap.
After lying on the beach for 2 or 3 hours, and seeing that suspicious clouds were gathering over the mountains, we went home. After eating and changing clothes, we arrived at the bus stop. They decided to go by trolley bus, for the sake of economy. It costs 33 r, and by bus - 55 r. True to go a whole hour against half an hour. But we were in no particular hurry. But the trailer is brand new, with panoramic windows and seats, according to the tickets purchased. The clouds descended lower, and only the ass of the bear-mountain stuck out of the fog. The track became wet, but the rain was already receding, we caught up with him, but did not catch up. When we left in Alushta, there was practically no rain and the sun was shining through. By the way, the toilet at the bus station is free if you have today's tickets. But I did not know this, and paid hard-earned 10 rubles. and only then subtracted on the stand. And where should he go, what to see? First of all, we found a liquor, where they gave us a taste, and chose something, so as not to stick around just like that, but with meaning. By the way, a very useful innovation has appeared in Crimea, like Lviv, now the same brown signs with the name of attractions and the distance to them hang everywhere. From these tablets, we realized that in Alushta there is an embankment, a park and a Genoese fortress. After walking along the embankment, sitting in the park and having a bite of wine with pies with cabbage (25 rubles each), we went to look for the Genoese fortress. This loud name, as it turned out, is the name of one single unfortunate surviving tower, plastered, moreover, on all sides with khatynki. In Feodosia, it’s even cooler. In general, Alushta did not make an impression on me. Nice little town, but nothing more. I always thought that there was nothing to do there, and now I'm just convinced of this completely. Well, I love Yalta, but I didn’t love the rest of the cities and towns, well, except, of course, Sudak with the New World. Although I have friends who adore Sevastopol and Alushta, and are absolutely indifferent to Yalta. As they say, to each his own.
The toad, lulled by alcohol, lost its vigilance a bit, so we decided to return by bus. We bought tickets, casually waving them, visited the WC for free. And the bus was Kerch and late for half an hour! . Saved time, man. It was necessary to go by trawl and not show off! True, we had with us, and we found something to do while waiting for the bus.
(to be continued)
