Rest for the persistent spirit

Written: 31 august 2009
Travel time: 17 — 27 august 2009
Your rating of this hotel:
2.0
from 10
Hotel ratings by criteria:
Rooms: 6.0
Service: 1.0
Cleanliness: 6.0
Food: 5.0
Amenities: 2.0
Good day to all! To begin with, when choosing a vacation spot, I crawled the entire Internet in search of reviews about Abkhazia. Having studied the available reviews, I decided to look at modern Abkhazia with my own eyes. Now I understand that the reviews, alas, do not fully reflect the actual situation. So, it is important to say that I am not spoiled for holidays on the coasts of Spain or Miami, I am an ordinary Russian and I have quite adequate ideas about comfort! Well, it's time to start on the topic...
In the Russian Travel Agency, we (two married couples) ordered vouchers to the Psou Rest House, from August 17 to 27, the cost per person is 1650 rubles per day. In the late 80s and early 90s, we often visited this holiday home as athletes going through sports and training camps. So I wanted to see once again the once paradise of the Black Sea coast.
1. Russian-Abkhazian border

You can read a large number of reviews about crossing the border, and I assure you, they all look a little like a funny, adventure story, rather like a nightmare with an Abkhaz flavor!
At the airport in Sochi, we were met by a silent young man, the son of the Armenian people, who put us in an old minibus and took us to the border. This service was ordered in the rest house "Psou" and cost 350 rubles. from a person. By roundabout paths and stitching, we made our way past the villages and a huge car queue in front of the border as close as possible to the cherished goal... The border! Everything, further on foot, the young man told us, and we got into a corridor of two fences, the distance between which did not exceed 3.5 meters. There, after 200 meters of the post, Abkhazia will also pass it, good luck. Well, we went. After the specified 200 meters we got into a sump for livestock. A fenced area with barbed wire with an area of ​ ​ ​ ​ about 25 by 25 meters, without a single shed, according to rough estimates, there were 600-700 people there, at all 5 checkpoints, the last one for the inhabitants of Abkhazia, there are local natives with huge carts and wheelbarrows on which they lie refrigerators, sofas, carpets and everything that is sold in Russia. Abkhazians, these nice people, every three minutes started a fight for a place in the queue and accompanied it with winged expressions and epithets, this went on for 3 hours, as we found out later, we were very lucky, it often happened, it took 5 -6 o'clock. A week before our arrival, at the border, under the rays of the sun, there were two deaths! There is nothing in the sump, no water, no toilets, no hint of shade, but there is a persistent smell from human waste products and a great desire to return to Adler or Sochi and relax there. After the Russian border, the Abkhazian follows, where everyone just compares the photo in the passport with your tired face and “Welcome”, it remains to take out insurance (Another twenty minutes in line) and you are in Abkhazia.
Looking ahead, I want to say that we did not dare to return the same way, and, having learned from the local population that there is another way, we gladly agreed to it. Namely: we agreed with a local aborigine, who took us from the rest home with our suitcases early in the morning. He drove up to the Abkhazian border, avoiding a many-kilometer line, not without the help of a local traffic cop, who directed us under the sign "brick" and further along the oncoming lane. Then we walked 50 meters to the Russian border, showed our passport and ended up at home! We paid the aborigine 2.000 rubles for all services, that is, 500 rubles for four. At the same time, we need to clarify that he drove us to the airport, and we drove through the border in 20 minutes! After that, it becomes clear that this situation at the border is extremely beneficial for the traffic police, customs officers and everyone involved in this wonderful business! Keep it up!
2. Rest House "Psou"

Most tourists go to Abkhazia to get close to subtropical nature and vegetation, in Psou it is wonderful! The whole territory is literally fragrant and pleases the eye with its diversity and beauty. Several gardeners are engaged in this legacy of the Soviet times and they know their business! Palm trees, ficuses, eucalyptus trees, cypresses and roses in the flower beds. Alas, there is nothing more to list from the positive!! ! More about the sad. The building of the residential building, fortunately, was not damaged during the hostilities, but this does not save him, the Abkhazian "hard-working" personnel, in terms of destructive power, replaces the tank division. The complete lack of desire to work at least a little bit does not pass without a trace! Many people write that Abkhazians are very hospitable people. . . My friends, this is extremely insufficient to provide at least some comfort for tourists and vacationers! Abkhazians, for the most part, are extremely lazy, proud and short-sighted! It is for this reason that Ukrainians and Belarusians already work as attendants in many Abkhazian boarding houses and sanatoriums. In Psou, unfortunately, this has not yet happened.
Upon arrival at the holiday home, at the reception, they took our passports for registration and offered to go up to our floors and get the keys to the rooms from the maids there !!!
The maid of our 4th floor, I was able to find just some 15 minutes after the start of the search, she peacefully drank tea with colleagues on the 2nd floor. In general, they have a tradition of drinking tea all daylight hours, but in the evening, not without surprise, at 22-00 the empty space of the corridors was filled with the sounds of working vacuum cleaners, and this went on until 22-40 every God's day.
The rooms have new furniture and a strong smell of the Soviet era. Of course, there are no double beds, and those that are are equipped with a yoga mattress, it is impossible to sleep on it, since it is an ordinary wire covered with a thin cloth, rest on this bed is fraught with bruises and inflammation of the joints! The sheets, according to the Abkhazian folk tradition, have several through holes and are two-thirds the size of the bed, the bed linen is stamped by Gantiadi 1986. Gantiadi is the former name of "Psou". Towels, in even more deplorable condition than bed linen, of course, during the 11 days of our stay, no one was going to change them! There are no hooks for clothes and towels in the bathroom, you always have to hold the shower with your hands, there is simply nowhere to hang it, the tray leaks and floods the lower room. There is a refrigerator in the room, a miracle of technology from the time of Leonid Ilyich Brezhnev, this unit, when starting and turning off the compressor, makes sounds similar to the sound of the MIG-29 fighter when passing through the sound barrier. The refrigerator is in close proximity to the bed and contributes to the appearance of nightmares and mental disorders in preschool children! There are three sockets in the rooms, but, as a rule, two of them are only decoration and do not work as intended. There is no table or chairs on the balcony. In the lobby of the hotel there is a reasonable announcement “Do not throw cigarette butts from the balcony”, but where to throw them is not entirely clear, in 11 days I have not seen a single ashtray, do it yourself. Concrete slabs on the territory of the holiday home have long been tired and require urgent replacement, it was sad to look at the children trying in vain to skate at least 20 meters. Next to the building, there is a crane, about 25-30 meters high and an unfinished building. They have been standing like this since 1991, and when they wish to fall on vacationers is a delicate mystery.

On the third day of rest, the door lock in our room began to refuse to work properly, and the prospect clearly loomed, at any moment, of staying either inside the room or outside. We came to the administrator and offered to resolve the issue of fixing the lock, she wrote down the complaint in a journal and defiantly continued knitting. A day passed, when the question of when the lock would be repaired was followed by the answer - “What am I, a carpenter or something? ” Like, the carpenter went to relatives and when it will not be known. Until we got to the deputy. The director's issue was not resolved, but as a result, we were moved to a new room. Abkhazians do not exchange for trifles, it is easier to change the number than to fix the lock!
The dining room greets you with the smell of burnt fat and unwashed floor, it seemed to us that in Psou flies are sacred animals, the place of worship for them is the Dining Room! There are definitely a lot of them and they somehow brighten up the waiting time of the "waitresses" with carts carrying inedible dishes of the Abkhazian cuisine. The average wait for a treasured bowl of soup or buckwheat is 20-25 minutes, the record was recorded on the fifth day of stay - 48 minutes!!! ! The portions are very small, the food is monotonous, the vegetables are not fresh, there are exactly 4 napkins on the tables, according to the number of people sitting. The only thing that is really tasty is baking! I must admit that no one had stomach upsets, for which special thanks to the kitchen workers !!!
The beach is pebbly, sometimes stones, sometimes sand, but mostly dirt, cigarette butts, branches from trees and contraceptives. Sun loungers are provided free of charge, for 50 rubles you can rent an umbrella, similar in size to a regular umbrella for bad weather. But there are only THREE umbrellas!! ! And a vacationer of about 250-300 people, and not a cloud in the sky and +30, there is every chance of getting a sunburn and spending half of the vacation in a room without air conditioning and a fan! There are no lifeguards on the beach, however, as well as security in the holiday home, but why?! ! After all, everyone is around. On this simple basis, there are no cells for valuables in the hotel either, I carry everything with me!
The sea water temperature during our stay was from +23 to +25.

The sea is clean, however, until it is completely calm, it is worth waiting for a wave of less than half a point and it, dear, raises from the bottom everything that was so secluded hidden there, and in particular, everything that was washed away from the uncleaned beach by the previous storm . It is worth sailing 15 meters from the shore, as you find yourself in an obstacle course of branches, bags of chips and plastic bottles, and the concentration of garbage is amazing in its density!
In the bathing area, the piles of the once beautiful pier sadly rise above the water, 15 meters from the pier, (the main swimming area) at a depth of one and a half meters and six meters from the shore, the rear axle from the truck lurks, with springs and other suspension elements. If someone decides to take a running dive into the warm waters of the Black Sea in this place, the probability of death will be extremely high.
There is a cafe on the beach, the assortment surprises with scarcity, water, a couple of types of juice and fish in bags. To the question "Why don't you cook? " we were sincerely answered “Yes, we don’t know somehow! ” These people stupidly do not want to do anything, they want money to be given to them for this, for the fact that they are in this world! Soul country!
The entrance to the sea is not convenient, there are a lot of large and small stones, they dig into your feet and give your ablution some extreme shade. In the same Sochi, there are exactly the same rocky and pebble beaches, but for some reason there are no such problems, probably the nature there is more favorable to vacationers. Security in Abkhazia is an empty phrase! Pleasure boats, in the absence of berths, disembark passengers directly on the beaches, mooring directly on the rocky shore, densely strewn with small children. Jet skis and boats rush literally over the heads of bathers, or rather bathers! Well, how about it, because they are ruled by daring horsemen driven by an exciting feeling of sexual dissatisfaction!
3. Excursions and general impressions

Lake Ritsa! Is it possible, having been in Abkhazia, not to go to the Ritsa? ! In addition to the gardeners, there is one more person in the rest house who knows and loves his work, this is a guide, a nice woman. We signed up for a tour, paid 600 rubles each. per person and on the appointed day in the morning they came to board the bus. The holiday home has its own Ikarus, but due to its advanced age, it can only move along the plain, Lake Ritsa is located at an altitude of about 1000 meters above sea level and the mentioned Ikarus cannot go up there. And now, from the morning haze, a miracle of the Soviet automobile industry is approaching us, a bus called LAZ (Lviv Bus Plant) born in 1976, a kind of gas chamber to the envy of the cells of the Auschwitz concentration camp. We were forced to interrupt the most fascinating walk in a rare bus at the 20th minute, at the entrance to Gagra, the reason is banal, headache, nausea and pain in the eyes. Saying goodbye to the bus and wishing the tourists who remained on it to avoid hallucinations, we agreed with a local taxi driver, the happy owner of a Mercedes, to ride to Ritsa and back, for which he asked for 2000 rubles and he is ours for the whole day! It is not difficult to calculate that for four it turns out 500 each, and for some reason it was 600 each in the gas chamber. He drove us comfortably to all the sights, with explanations and stories of the aborigine! It was very pleasant and interesting! There are amazing people among the Abkhazians, it is a pity that not all of them!
Lake Ritsa, a beautiful place, pretty polluted by tourists and the local population, who do their business on it in Abkhazian style! The banks are littered with stumps and logs, firewood for numerous barbecues is cut right here from the relic forest. Trout, to treat tourists, is caught at night with nets right here at the source of the lake flowing into the river at 60-70 kg. on one network! I wonder what these nice people will show to tourists in 10-15 years? If they continue to suck out the last of the natural wealth and beauty, as well as stupidly exploit the Soviet legacy in the form of boarding houses and sanatoriums, without investing a penny in their reconstruction, their prospect will be sad. But, alas, today, the hungry local population and authorities are only engaged in personal enrichment, and not in restoring a normal, competitive infrastructure. Two years ago I had a question of Sochi or Abkhazia. Sochi, of course, is also not yet at the European level, but at least there you can see the desire of people to do better, which happens year after year. Sochi on average cost about 2000 rubles. and Abkhazia 600-700 rubles. per day per person. Today, Sochi costs 2100-2300, and Abkhazia 1600-1900. My friends, answer me, am I the only one who sees illogicality here or do I have like-minded people? Indeed, over these two years, if something has changed in Abkhazia, then only the number of tourists, in 2009, according to official statistics, it has grown 4 times compared to 2008, and everything else has only worsened. Customs, roads, sanatoriums and boarding houses, because so far they only collect money from tourists and do not invest anything in modernization!
4. Conclusion
Of course, everyone will decide for himself, someone Abkhazia, someone Anapa. I wrote this review only so that another opinion of a person who, having rested in Abkhazia, felt very tired, would appear on the Internet. Tired of route gazelles designed for 15 people, but they put 20 or more in them and they ride standing or sitting on the necks of those fifteen that managed to sit down earlier. Tired of "homemade" wine made from essence and diluted with water. Tired of crossing the border for 3-5 hours for pedestrians and 6-8 for motorists. From the rampant expired products on store shelves, which are imported cheaply from Russia. Yes, simply because you are not needed there, your money is needed, preferably in small bills, since there is nothing to give change! I wish you all good holidays, well-groomed resorts and even tan!

Take care of yourself.
Anton.
Translated automatically from Russian. View original