Journey through South America. Bolivia
Bolivia
Previous story about Argentina here.
The seventh day on the road, no matter how hard it was, we crossed the border, leaving beautiful Argentina. The bridge has already ended, but the entry stamp is not put anywhere. Something is wrong, Bolivia is already around. It turns out that we entered the country illegally. And there is a policeman, a desperate decision was made to surrender to the mercy of the authorities, if they give us no more than 7 days, we will still have time for the return plane. The policeman greeted us with a bunch of Spanish text, I silently showed him a visa without a stamp, the law enforcement officer, carefully looking at the passport, said: “Oooooh... ” In his fading tone, it sounded like 10 years of average regime. The policeman silently pointed towards the border and pointed with his fingers that two windows were nearby. Again a post, again the last meter from the post with Argentina, and we are safe, on neutral territory between two windows. So, double 2. Until the end of Argentina there was a meter, and here it is, the second time the first step on the land of Bolivia, but with stamps.
Villazó n
Temperature 20oC
Altitude: 3450m
Flights behind: 6
Moves behind: 3
Trash was going on here no less, everything was mixed up, crowds everywhere, everything was colorful and everyone was doing something. Roadside llamas were replaced by pigs. Taxi, we need to get to the railway from here as soon as possible. Taxi drivers flatly refuse to understand what a train is and how it makes “tu-tu”. Fortunately, there was a small train icon on the migration cards, and the price immediately turned out to be 40 bolivianos (80 UAH), although the country should not be expensive. Other taxi drivers do not even know that the train exists. Okay figs with them, let's go for 80, but just go please. We drove for 3 whole minutes, but when I took out two bills of 20 each, the driver took only one, could not find the change and gave the ten back. It turns out that the fare was 14 bolivianos, and since the taxi driver did not have change, he wrote off 4 bolivianos (8 UAH) for us. To be honest, such kindness of the station taxi driver did not just touch us, but also radically changed the first impression of Bolivia. Despite the fact that the country is far from being rich, such an act on the part of a taxi driver simply killed all the taxi drivers in the world. We go to look at train tickets and it turns out that the train that runs once a day leaves at 15:30, and now... The most exciting moment....16:00, but the time in Bolivia is an hour different from Argentina…. Wow, it's only 3pm now. To be honest, it was not just strong, but very strong. A day to lose in Villazó n is the worst thing that could happen for lost days. More to the checkout! But the ticket office is closed, everyone has tickets, the train is closed on the platform, but there is no cashier. Hey, we can't stay here, where's the cashier? In response, a bunch of Spanish text. Okay, let's go look for staff. The only staff is the girl selling toilet tickets. "Excus me, vi nid to buy tickets. " And then the girl answered in Spanish so clearly that she understood everything to the smallest detail. There will be tickets, don't worry, the cashier will come before departure and sell everything. The cashier came at 15:30, sold tickets to everyone, the train left half an hour later. Rather, the trains were like two different ones, but they were coupled together. We go out onto the platform, blooming with happiness that the two-day most difficult section of the path has developed just like a puzzle. On the platform, a granny was selling dried fruit compote in huge glass cups. After drinking compote, the grandmother insisted that I eat dried fruit - an apple from the bottom. After I drank it, I realized that the glass was far from disposable, my grandmother immediately rinsed it in some kind of bucket.
And prices after Argentina are simply fabulously low. Having stocked up with all sorts of nishtyaks at my grandmother's, we loaded into a sit-down train. The rails were only one way and very crooked. During the trip, I felt like I was riding a camel. And so 11 hours. Unfortunately, mountain sickness became more and more severe. It was already impossible to get by with a headache, nausea began to rise, and I was still riding this camel.
Low skies of Bolivia
After 5 hours at the stop Tupitsa, there was a half-hour pass. So that things would not get stuck, we asked some unfamiliar Bolivian to look after them while we were walking around the station. Our things weren't stolen : ) At first, the same train was advertised on TV on the train, and so many times in a row that I already believed that this was the best train in the world. Thematically dressed conductor checked tickets, and the seller carried a local delicacy - jelly. Well, don't give up on jelly beans.
Movies were playing on TV. At first I watched how the Spanish Rimbaud got into prison, then after a little nap, I woke up when superman saved the bus, and Dasha woke up at the end, and said that the girl ended up pulling out the wires and they could not revive those robots. Soon our camel caravan went completely into the mountains and in places incredible landscapes passed. It was getting late at night, and the windows were starting to fog up. Moreover, it became clearly clear that they were far from sweating from the heat. Intuition prompted that it's time to dress as warmly as possible.
Uyuni
Standard grandma
Temperature 5oC
Altitude: 3650m
Flights behind: 6
Moves behind: 4
At 2 o'clock in the morning, a five-degree cold enveloped us completely. It's good that in our backpacks there were also two sets of warm clothes. When we planned the trip, we did not believe that we could overcome this two-day section in two days, respectively, all the hotels were shifted a couple of days ahead and, accordingly, we will look for hotels from this place upon arrival. It was also calculated in our route that this train was a night train, and we would spend the night on it, but there was a flaw in the calculations. And there is a taxi, going up to the taxi driver, I said that we need a hotel. The taxi driver, without much straining, showed us the direction to the nearest hotel.
Just imagine that yesterday morning we were in Buenos Aires. In two days we covered the heroic route: Buenos-Salta-Pulmamarca-Jujuy-Tilcara-La Chiaca-Villazó n-Uyuni
Entering the hotel, the price turned out to be 30 percent less than on booking, and the amenities are better. The room was on the third floor, but since we were in the mountains, it was a very difficult climb. From rarefied air and, accordingly, low atmospheric pressure, all the shampoo tubes burst and leaked into the bag. In the morning, mountain sickness squinted so hard that the pale green Dasha literally led me by the hand. In order for the disease to recede, it is necessary to urgently lower the altitude, and according to our plan for the next week, kag be is completely reversed. And there’s not much to go down to, the nearest city is not up to the mark, it’s Salta, two days away or 20 hours of flights with three transfers. Next, it was necessary to quickly find a travel agency and go on an excursion to the salt marsh. Tours start at 10:30 am. We have a couple of hours. We open the doors of the hotel, and the first thing we see is a crowd of guides and everyone shouts “Solar de Uyuni! ”, A minute later we are already in the office buying a tour. Yeah, it took about 5 seconds to find the travel agency. The guide, with gold figurines and rims in his teeth, laid out a map of routes in front of us and suggested a three-day trip, near the third day of the route I saw a mark above 4000 m. “Tell me, is there an ambulance, if anything, is there? ” The girl carefully looked at my complexion and, probably, realized that a real person was sitting in front of her, and not a pale-faced ghost. “I think a two-day excursion is enough for you. ” Apparently, I looked so bad that even the desire to make money against this background faded away. “Where are you going next? La Paz or Ouro? We will issue bus tickets for you right away, and you will be able to start on your journey immediately upon your return. ” In Bolivia, everything turned out to be even easier than we thought. After all, there were really two dumb moments in the route, how to immediately go to the salt marsh, and on return, so as not to waste a day, immediately go further. The inhabitants of Uyuni are divided into two groups, some sell tours and others sell world brand sunglasses. Having bought ourselves glasses of the coolest brand for 30 bolivianos (60 UAH), we were fully prepared to conquer the largest salt marsh in the world.
Although not ready yet, first to the pharmacy. A good-natured Spaniard greeted us, it was immediately clear that our dialogue would not begin in English. I pointed to my pale face and made a mountain with my hands. "Si si! " The pharmacist pulled out a large box of pills from under the counter, on which a huge mountain was drawn. That's wonderful. Now let's deal with the instructions for use. I pretended to eat with a spoon, she showed three on her fingers and then I immediately summed up in Spanish “Tres, uno dias? ” in response, I heard "Si! " Here is the moment, if you want to live, you will speak any language. And now we're definitely ready. Fun fact, 82 days ago we were on the salt marsh, which is considered the second largest in the world. In general, something pulled us to the salt marshes. But the salt marsh of Tunisia was unremarkable compared to this wonder of the world. Loading into a six-seat jeep, we set off on a tour. Two guys were sitting nearby and offered to get acquainted, in response they heard a brief biography of each from us, I told them that they were both from France, both were 27 years old, and the guy was my namesake - Andreo! Surprise cannot be expressed in words, maybe the gift of clairvoyance was opened from the height, or I just memorized the data from the registration log for the excursion. But Andreo just turned out to be a girl (Audrey), and not a guy, clairvoyance was fuzzy.
Solar de Uyuni
"Bon amigos! " said our driver and began his Spanish tour. Our first stop was at the graveyard of locomotives. Everyone was frolicking and taking pictures, but specifically, the thought that I climbed such mountains for the sake of old trains killed me a little. But literally in half an hour the pills began to work, and I began to become a man again. The pills did not completely remove the headache mountain pain, but all the other symptoms were extinguished to the fullest. Trains were of various forms and purposes, there is something for every taste. After walking with the locomotives, we hurried on.
We were on the salt marsh in the dry season, and there were no mirror plains. At first, the salt marsh was clay-colored and not impressive at all. Then there was a stop for lunch, which was exclusively prepared by the driver and covered the clearing in the trunk of the car. Then there was some kind of monument, some kind of race, but that's not the point. Then we drove for a long time and I began to fall asleep with sad thoughts “And this is what we drove a quarter of South America for ??? ” After 40 minutes, Dasha wakes me up and enthusiastically, something in joy shouts “We will stop now, and we can take a picture, do you hear? Wake up, look! " All doubts immediately turned into delight, outside the windows of the car there were endless canvases of a snow-white desert covered with small hexagonal honeycombs (see the first photo). The driver stopped and everyone hurried out of the car. Feelings, probably, were the same as when meeting with the pyramids or the Taj Mahal. It's insanely beautiful! You need to take a picture, no, you must first lick the ground and make sure the salt is saline, no, it’s better to take a picture right away as I lick the ground. The number of photographs was such that their enumeration then took considerable time. It was impossible to see enough of this beauty, I wanted to literally eat it all with my eyes. Everyone has already been photographed, and especially two Bolivians who never got out of the car, but we still can’t stop looking at it. Let's go see what's next. The mood was completely positive. Further on the program was check-in at the hotel, but the hotel is not simple, it is completely built from salt blocks and everything inside is also made of salt, and even loose salt on the floor.
Salt hotel, the smile did not come out, but the photo is the only one)
The Bolivians at the hotel immediately tried to pull off a scam on the topic of triple rooms. When they were convinced that no one would live in a triple room, they began to say something in Spanish, and at the end the word “boliviano” flashed. Dasha immediately understood the essence, and wedged into the Spanish melodic speech in no less melodic Ukrainian language. Yeah, that means they decided to breed for money, let's see who wins. I began to put pressure on the other side and demand to return all the money for the tour and immediately return me to Uyuni. After such a turn, all triple rooms abruptly became double rooms, and the good-natured owner instilled everyone, but said something to the French on the way. Then the Frenchman told me that the owner said, “of course, you can all move in without any additional payments, but if you suddenly want to pay extra, you can do it later. ” I hung another virtual medal for myself : ) Our hotel was at the foot of a dormant volcano. We left the hotel to look around. The volcanic island was large and surrounded by salt lakes.
Here the views were even more beautiful than an hour ago in the center of the salt marsh. There was also a white salt marsh, and green vegetation around the lakes and wild flamingos that hung out on the lakes. By the view of the panorama, this is how I always imagined Australia. And a herd of llamas immediately decided to stir up a selfie with me.
All this greenery against the background of a multi-colored crater is somehow ultra-beautiful. We had immense euphoria, the road of six flights and four crossings was worth it to see it all.
Every minute spent in this paradise was appreciated. Walking, we met guys who were playing something funny on the banjo in the middle of the salt marsh and treated us to cookies. No matter how much we approached the flamingos, the same number of flamingos did not pale away from us. But there was something ahead of us! It was a real dinosaur! I had to take my hands to my feet and run wherever my eyes look.
Soon the sun went below the horizon, and in a matter of minutes the pleasant warmth dissipated. The temperature dropped at a very high rate. Frosty air began to permeate the entire body. We walked at top speed towards the hotel. As we walked, everything grew ominously dark and cold.
And at the hotel we were waiting for an international dinner. We slandered the French that they had never tried toad's feet and exchanged impressions from the first day. In the evening I persuaded Dasha to go out to look at the stars of the southern hemisphere. But the ominous darkness and the unreal dubar did not let us walk. But the Milky Way looks spectacular than ours. We dipped money in various schemes as best we could. Dasha's shoes got wet somewhere on the lakes and the dollars had to be dried.
The oligarch is resting
Early in the morning we went by jeep to the volcano. Of course, I was aware that the height was growing and what it could result in, but I could not help myself. The car took the tourists to a conditional observation deck and we were told that there are 2.5 hours to walk towards the crater, but to the very top about four hours one way. Oh yes, they also took us to some cave, showed us human skeletons and explained everything in Spanish. As I wrote earlier, in Uyuni at an altitude of 3650 m, it was already difficult to climb even to the third floor. And then it’s like a volcano, and you have to score on health problems. The higher you go, the more beautiful the horizons of the desert open up.
At an altitude of about 4300, stars began to fall from the eyes and the moon began to appear from the rarefied oxygen. We did not dare to climb higher. There was another attempt, but ended the same. Still in the mountains, there is a constant shortness of breath, it is worth a little faster step, then you stand, you move away from the shortness of breath. Having admired the horizons, we went down to the jeep. After lunch at the salt hotel, we went to the island of cacti. In general, it’s quite funny that you have to go to the islands, and not swim.
Actually, I'm standing near the left cactus very close.
The number of cacti and their size is really impressive. You could find a cactus for every taste. In Cartoons, they always draw a cactus from three parallel branches of different lengths. No matter how hard we tried, we did not find this among hundreds of cacti. Being on the salt marsh, you are simply amazed by all these natural phenomena. Despite the night cold, our faces were already burnt, and to such an extent that it really hurt to touch our face. But this is one of the inevitable facts about the salt marsh.
Pisan cactus
In a couple of days, our route in Peru was supposed to begin, but with us it was very superficially compiled. It was necessary to urgently meet the tourists who were there, but most, like us, were only moving in that direction. On the way back we were put into the jeep by other guys who had just returned a week ago from Peru. We had an hour and a half on the road to chat, we absorbed literally every word they said, and I quickly wrote down notes on the tablet. In an hour and a half, our route has changed dramatically not only in Peru, but also in Bolivia, as the guys have already been there several times and were able to compare what and where is more beautiful. On the way, we also stopped by to look at the eyes of the salt marsh, which were small bubbling geysers. The Spaniard said that if you stick your hand in there, it will look younger. Put the Greek hand into the river....As a result, I stand with a hand white from salt. At 17:00 we are back in Uyuni. I want to summarize this excursion separately. I already felt invigorated and it would have been possible to go for three days, but there was a risk of not being able to get to Lima airport on time.
If we didn't catch the plane
You definitely need to go, even if it's a dry season. Such an excursion costs $ 150 for two for two days with accommodation and meals. You can find cheaper if you have time to look. It is especially difficult to fly to Bolivia by plane, so the best way to get there is from Argentina, through La Chiaca.
At 20:00 we boarded the night bus to the capital La Paz. In La Paz, we originally planned a death road bike tour, but we decided to cancel it due to its specific health and convenience. Our road of death was waiting for us in this bus. Before the bus started moving, Dasha went to the toilet, and I decided to go later. But as soon as the bus moved off, I remembered the story of other tourists about how two Japanese women in the toilet could not cope with weightlessness. The bus drove along the highway for the first five minutes, and then turned into the desert and rushed along the impassability. Everything shook wildly. I went to the toilet, which was on the first floor. It really shook so much that it’s not that it’s impossible to concentrate - there really is no gravity. As an astronaut, I tried with all my might to fix myself within four walls, but it was an anrial. You can't go to the toilet in space. After a five minute struggle, I gave up and returned to my seat. After half an hour, I decided to repeat the feat, but the result is the same. From the shaking in the bus, the windows began to open and the frosty air tried to seep through. The window was blocked by an engineering method, but then we began to catch up with the second bus, which raised a dust storm behind it. The air smelled of concentrated dust. Nearby, some man shone his phone like a spotlight right in my eye. Since we had the same androids, I showed him how I turn off the brightness on my phone, and he did the same, here it is IT connecting people. At one point, some family began to ram into the windshield so that the driver on the first floor would hear and stop. The driver was behind a wall, meaning the passengers had no access to him. The driver stopped and opened the door, the family got out first, and I jumped out after them with the phrase “Wait me! ” Finally not shaking. And around there is some volcanic ash and a desert, probably the same salt marsh. Satisfied, he returned to the bus and turned on the music. The main thing here was just to survive until the morning. Soon the music stopped, and I went to sleep. . . We jammed the window so well that it was no longer that the frost did not seep in, no air leaked anymore.
At 6:00 in the morning everyone started to wake up - We arrived.
La Paz
Temperature 8oC
Height: 3593m
Flights behind: 6
Moves behind: 5
It was so cold that we immediately needed a blanket, which we could also fit in a backpack. The goal was simple, it was necessary to figure out how to go to Copacabana as soon as possible and actually go. The bus ticket offices were still closed, so I decided to try my luck with a taxi. Dasha stayed with her things at the station, warming herself under a blanket, I went to look for a car. I only know that the ride is about 4 hours. And here comes the amigos.
- Excuse me, I need drive to Copacabana.
In response, a bunch of Spanish text. The driver gestured for me to get into the car. Well, ok, I sat down, we were going somewhere, and Dasha remained at the station and did not even suspect that I was already going somewhere. Uh…
- What is the price of Copacabana?
In response, something like:
- Si-si.
I finally found out that the taxi driver does not understand either English or gestures. In the second week of the trip, a good basis for understanding the Spanish language has already been formed. Let's decipher it. Oh, he says something about the Boliviano, but how much? 40! (80 UAH). Something is not right, as it is 80 UAH for the fact that he drove us for 4 hours, something does not add up. Then I found out that this price also includes the way back...
Below is our Spanish-English dialogue:
-Are we definitely going to Copacabana, which is near Peru?
The driver nodded in the affirmative.
- How long is the ride?
In response, I learned that it is now 6:20
- And how much will it be in Copacabana?
In response, I learned that it is also 6:20 now.
Then he decided to dedicate me to the details of the route, saying that we are now going to the cemetery. I did not expect such a turn of events.
- Why do I need a cemetery, please take me to Copacabana, which is next to Peru.
- Well, yes, we'll go to the cemetery right now.
- Isn't Copacabana a very beautiful place?
- Well, of course, amigo, you will come, take pictures of everything there, and we will return. I know exactly what is needed at the cemetery.
A cool story comes out, Dasha is sitting with things at the station, I'm going to some cemetery in a taxi with a taxi driver who, in my Spanish, speaks worse than me.
- My wife stayed at the station, I have to go back.
- Ok, we're going back for your wife, and we're all going to the cemetery together! Having told Dasha that I had already managed to ride around La Paz and that we urgently need to go to the cemetery, Dasha also doubted the correctness of the route. The driver had to refuse.
Okay, go ahead. I went to buy tea, it cost 3 bolivianos (UAH 6)
Ticket offices began to open and at the first ticket office they told me that tickets for today's buses were already sold out. I asked:
- Is it really possible to get there by taxi?
- Why do you need a taxi, the next ticket office will open now, they have tickets. I'm sure. I noticed that the girl speaks English simply in its purest form and decided to ask.
- Here is the question, I wanted to take a taxi to Copacabana, but they tried to take me to the cemetery?
- Yes, that's right.
Here my brain almost exploded, and the girl continued.
- "Cementrio" is the name of the second bus station, from which a large number of city buses run to Copacabana.
Everything fell into place. I need more tea.
- 4 bolivianos from you!
- So was it 3?
- That was a small one, but I'll pour you a big one. And indeed the glass was half a liter.
And here is our VIP class bus with Wi-Fi. The bus drove for about an hour, after which the driver got off and left. After 40 minutes it became suspicious, but I saw in the rearview mirror that they were just having a meeting with other drivers. Ah, this beautiful Bolivian tradition. Soon, the huge Lake Titicaca began to appear outside the windows. Seeing Lake Titicaca while traveling means that you have completely driven into the depths of South America. Soon the bus dropped everyone off, we crossed on the ferry to the other side. And then the bus crossed on a separate ferry.
The bus floats
After a joyful meeting with the bus, we drove it further into the mountain serpentine. The height is not that it did not think to subside, so it still gained, then fell. Altitude sickness was already mainly manifested only by pain in the head and poor sleep, the rest of the symptoms subsided in 4 days, and the pills did their job. But the body was already really used to the headache, and it was in the background. We arrived at a town on the lake.
Copacabana
Temperature 12oC
Height: 3841m
Flights behind: 6
Moves behind: 6
And we are getting higher and higher… And how is it that a lake with a coastline of 1125 km is located so high. It was around 13:00 in the afternoon, our first break during the trip. On this day, we allowed ourselves to rest, although along the route we actually still had time for an excursion that started in half an hour, but we decided to take a break. It was our tenth day of travel, and we already clearly imagined the further route and with a predictability of 90% that we really have time. We really managed to overcome an unrealistic number of kilometers on the ground in the last couple of days. On the way, we met tourists who had been on the road for more than three weeks and their route consisted of a smaller part of ours. There was a real pride in the speed of movement with visiting the sights. A cheap hotel began to soar to everyone on the bus, so there were no problems with checking in. But we decided that day to feel like majors and took a hotel one and a half times more expensive - for 160 bolivianos (320 UAH). First of all, we went to a restaurant and got a little acquainted with Mexican cuisine, for some reason it was popular in these parts, we ordered nachos with two types of meat sauce, as well as a traditional local macho pique.
We decided to drink this whole thing with the local popular drink Inca Cola. The cola tasted duchesse and was yellow in color. Although we climbed only 200 meters relative to Uyuni, we had to get used to the height a little, after lying down for an hour in the room, and the sun reflected by a number of glare from the water put moral pressure on our eyes. For an hour the sun disappeared behind the clouds and mountains, and we went to explore the surroundings. The coastline stretched out of the city, along exotic thickets. Five of us went on the road: me, Dasha and three dogs - Yolk (aka Amigos), Squirrel (aka Tuzik, aka Sharik) and El Diablo (aka Buenos noches, aka El Corazon). How many we did not walk, the dogs faithfully accompanied us. The walk turned out to be quite romantic, perhaps from the realization that you are resting, and today you don’t have to worry about the further route. In the evening we also ate a rather exotic lasagna and washed it down with tea on freshly brewed coca leaves.
. In general, I even thought about bringing leaves for souvenirs. And then I found out that they give up to 10 years for trying)
Isla del Sol
Lake Titicaca
In the morning we hurried to the pier, from where we were taken by a sightseeing boat. Our route was to the island of the sun. We hoped that there would be more sun there than on this gloomy foggy morning on land. In all this idea, it was a little scary that our bus leaves at 18:00, and the island is very far away. But we were strongly assured in the travel agency that we would definitely make it in time. The ship left the pier at a neat low speed, and then rode at exactly the same speed. That is, the island is not so far away, but the speeds of the boats here are such that most likely some slaves manually turned the motor. We arrived at the island. We were told that you have to go through the mountains of the island, which takes three hours, and the return boat will pick you up at exactly 14:30, you can’t be late, because many people need to catch the bus! This phrase reassured me that the boat is in any case connected with the bus. It was 09:30 on the clock, there was still a lot of time. "Here's a guide for you, he will show you everything and tell you beautifully in Spanish. " The guide spoke really nicely, you could hear that his Spanish was really cool. 3A1501491600.3Aembedcontent% 3A12065936.2 669.26% 260.26youtube% 26oKDYM8QLOmk% 3Ac8b4ec61399f17ae16eea79c665a7f5a388f0ddb & source = youtube & vid = oKDYM8QLOmk & moduleid = 69 & preview = 0 & journalid = 12065936 & noads = "width =" 560 ">
A piece of the tour in Spanish
Often they even understood what he was talking about. It was necessary to go decently uphill. I remember until recently it was hard for me to go up to the third floor. Grandfather took us 2 hours in the mountains, and when the tour ended, he said that the three-hour route to the boat starts here, so you can start walking. That is, two hours of sawing in the mountains, this was not included in the route. So, in fact, what we saw here - there were beautiful views. When, after another hour of our journey, I noticed what beautiful stones were under my feet, Dasha was seriously worried about my health. Although in fact, they were several times inferior to the views from the path of Aphrodite in Cyprus.
After an hour's journey, a sign appeared on the mountain. We decided that it was probably welcome that you were at the top. But they didn’t guess, then the ticket office where you must definitely buy a ticket, or you can go back. Okay, let's move on. After 40 minutes, another ticket office, if you don’t like something, then no one forces you to go further. I told the cashier that we already had a ticket and slipped him a ticket from the last ticket office. He carefully looked and indeed, it turns out that this ticket office is for those who landed on the island between two ticket offices and do not have a ticket, there was no other way between them.
Half an hour later there was another ticket office, where they said that a ticket of a different color was needed. Although the price was small for 5 bolivianos (10 UAH each), we did not intend to pay out of principle. Why at the very beginning, at the entrance to the reserve, they take 10 Bolivianos from you, and then it turns out that you have to unfasten them three more times. Grandmother tried to prove to us that for this money we would not only pass, but also be able to see some kind of stone, but having found out that we were not interested in any stones, we just go to the boat, she said that this price includes steps to go down and in general we can buy at least one ticket for two. Frostbite from grandmother, we went further and instantly caught instant karma, turning the wrong way, we really didn’t get on the steps and went down some crooked paths. Some guys did not return on time and had to nag the captain that we had to catch the bus. The captain did his best, during the return trip he probably added 1 kilometer per hour, which approximately tripled our speed. Everything is clear, an hour before the bus we were at the bus stop. There’s just one problem, our tickets don’t have places written on them, and the cashier who sold us tickets yesterday ran away somewhere, leaving everything open in her office.
No one really cares about our tickets without seats
We went to another travel agency and clarified information about the places, the girl thought that apparently she sold us tickets like that and said that she would give us good places at the landing. While Dasha was buying goodies with the rest of the money, I filled in all the migration data for crossing the border. I remember when I dreamed that someday I would be there. My Bolivian visa was canceled with a stamp back in Brazil. But fortunately the officer was not embarrassed. And here it is, that's it, the single entry visa is closed, perhaps we will never visit Bolivia again, due to its mountainous inaccessibility. We pass through a large forged gate, and we are in a country that was under a big question of visiting even a couple of months before the trip, as it was very, very far from the beginning of the route. We are in Peru!
Mountains of Peru
