Czech castles. A novel in five parts with a prologue and an epilogue.

05 July 2018 Travel time: with 14 June 2018 on 25 June 2018
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Part 2. From Moravia to South Bohemia.

Prologue here https://www.turpravda.com/cz/blog-324562.html">turpravda.com/cz/blog-324562.html

Part 1 here https://www.turpravda.com/cz/blog-325037.html">turpravda.com/cz/blog-325037.html

After saying goodbye to the hospitable hostess of our apartment, we went to the next base point of our route - Ceske Budejovice.


We did not want to leave at all, we really liked the breakfasts organized by our hostess. (To whom it will be interesting, write in person, I will give the coordinates). When I booked them, I was surprised that the cost of housing included breakfast. And it was written: "Breakfast - buffet. " What can be in the apartments "buffet"? And besides, there was no feedback. But as they say: "Who does not take risks - he does not drink champagne. " And I didn't guess. When we settled in and opened the fridge. Opachki, and the products that we bought on the way, there is no place to put them. Almost everything that is usually present in hotels for breakfast was here.

Yoghurt, milk, sour cream, pate, butter, various types of sausages and cheeses, and a lot more. A dessert like "tiramisu" with raspberries is beyond praise. Plus, the kitchen had pasta, rice, oatmeal, muesli, two types of coffee (instant and brewed for a coffee machine), cocoa, several types of tea, sunflower oil, vinegar, bread, I don’t remember what else. In fact, like at home in your kitchen. It remained in the morning, who would like to put something on the table and eat. We also had a welcome cake (also very tasty : ). And in the morning, outside the door, the hostess left us a whole mountain of fresh pastries. In general, everything: from the design of the apartments to a small green courtyard, is thought out perfectly.

But forward for new adventures. Our road ran to a fabulous town with doll houses - Telc (Telc). This town is also called "Moravian Venice". Small, only 25 sq. km.

, he (the old city) is surrounded on all sides by a lake, a river and defensive canals. And the beautiful Renaissance castle of Telč is reflected in their waters.

The main square of the city will not leave anyone indifferent. The facade of each house is distinguished by its unique decoration. There are no alike! Like in a fairy tale cartoon about gnomes. I want to add that the city did not always look like this. Until the 14th century, it was completely wooden, and as a result of a fire, and fires in those days were the scourge of cities, it burned to the ground. And like a beautiful phoenix, he was reborn from the ashes.

The history of the castle is very similar to the history of many castles in the Czech Republic. First there was a Gothic castle, which, thanks to its favorable location, protected the population from enemies.

Quieter times came and the castle grew. Until one of the owners started reconstruction and rebuilding, after a trip to Italy, in the Renaissance style that was fashionable at that time. I'm not the only one who likes Italy : )))


I climbed the tower of the Town Hall (surprisingly, it was Monday, the tower was open), which offers breathtaking views of the city. And although the historical part is small, it somehow disposes, namely, to unhurried walks. When you don’t want to rush anywhere, but just enjoy the contemplation of tourists passing by, over a cup of coffee or a glass of cold beer.

Belfry of the tower

But South Bohemia was already waiting to take us into its arms.

And the next castle and the city of Jindrichuv Hradec.

Read the history of the castle above: first there was a tower, then a Gothic castle, then the owner went to Italy, and the result is the same - a Renaissance-style castle : ))) But it's beautiful - damn it! Oh, I forgot, there was a fire. Most of the palace burned down. Part of the premises was restored in the 40s of the 19th century. And finally the castle was restored at the end of the 20th century.

The Black Tower, which remained from the Gothic castle and did not burn down in the fire, attracts attention. It was built in 1220.

In the 16th century, a musical pavilion was built in the small garden of the castle - called Rondel.

Inside, there is an interesting decoration in the style of Mannerism.

Peeked through the window - Monday - "what would you have been good to. " But we were glad that, unlike Bitov, it was possible to go into the courtyards of the castle.

The third castle courtyard is decorated with beautiful arcades.

The castle well is decorated with such a "cheerful" multi-colored lattice of the early 17th century.

The town itself is also quite interesting. Lots of old buildings.

In search of life-giving moisture (well, on Monday - why are there museums - half of the bars are closed) we came across (on purpose - we definitely wouldn’t have found) the 15th meridian, which passes through Jindrichuv Hradec.

And the city is also famous for its absinthe factory. Who does not know what it is - read Osk Wilde or Remarque : ))

Summary - for this city, if you also take a visit to the inner chambers of the castle, you need to set aside time for at least half a day, and if you have absinthe tasting, it's better to spend the night.

A little tired and absolutely sober (I hate ALL Mondays) we went to the resort town of Trebon. We didn’t have it in our plans, but the track passes through it, why not stop and look around.


The city was built on the site of peat bogs. Peat mud in the form of baths and wraps is used to treat diseases of the joints, spine, rheumatism, arthritis, gout, and postoperative conditions. The city itself is surrounded by many reservoirs and therefore it is also called the "city of lakes". And where there are lakes, there are fish. Many restaurants in the city offer dishes from Trebon carp.

Well, what is a city without a castle in the Renaissance style : )).

A beautiful English park on the territory of the castle invites you to walk after wellness treatments and drinking carp with local beer. Summary: it is more interesting as an object of spa treatment than a tourist one.

Cure thirst in the population

“All roads lead to Rome. In the same way, all roads lead to Č eské Budě jovice. The good soldier Schweik was deeply convinced of this” (J. Hasek) And we, like the famous Schweik, reached Ceske Budejovitsy in small dashes. What else this city is famous for is the birthplace of Budweiser beer.

The city was founded in 1265. the then king of Bohemia.

It had a very favorable location at the intersection of transport routes, as well as the status of a royal city. Thanks to this, he quickly developed and grew rich. In the 16th century, silver mining and coinage began to be mined here. During this period, the city is built up with houses in the Renaissance style. However, during the fire of 1641. most of the houses were destroyed. For several decades, the restoration of the city continued. Baroque houses appeared. During this period, the fountain "Samson" was installed on the central square of the city, which is one of the symbols of the city.

The town hall on the town square was built in 1727-1730. with three turrets and statues representing the four civil virtues: Justice, Courage, Wisdom and Prudence. Attention is drawn to the Black Tower - a bell tower in the Gothic-Renaissance style with a height of 72 m.


And on this square there is a “Prodigal Stone” (a five-sided stone with an embossed cross) according to legend, this stone has been here since the 16th century. They say there was a place of execution here, and whoever steps on this stone after 22:00 will wander around the city all night and will only get home in the morning. I think that it’s vague about the place of execution, but the number of drinking establishments in the district will really make you “fornicate” until the morning.

You won't get home until you taste all the beer

Continued https://www.turpravda.com/cz/blog-328102.html">turpravda.com/cz/blog-328102.html

Translated automatically from Russian. View original
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Колокольня башни
Лечение жажды у населения
Пока все пивко не продегустируешь - домой не попадешь
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