Three in a boat, poverty and dogs. Part 5

28 November 2016 Travel time: with 06 November 2016 on 15 November 2016
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I flashed, it was, the thought to ask the Hindu for directions, but I discarded it as unsuccessful. Putting a smile on her face, she forced herself to say "Hello. " The Hindu replied. In the thicket stood two more motsiks. Having moved a considerable distance, I tell my companions: “Estimate if they have weapons! Someone was shooting! " Reasonable Verka replied: “Do we have options? ” We continue to walk with a confident step, like we know where. For you to understand, we carried all our money and a tablet with us, and were easy prey, if these men wanted to check our backpack, or encroach on our honor with Verka. Or maybe Vadkina too. Like that joke. The Germans captured the village and say: “We will now shoot the women and rape the men! ” Women: "That doesn't happen! " Men joyfully: "It happens, it happens! ". Funny. But then I was not laughing.


But no one followed us. And then some greenhouses went. We vaguely remembered that we had seen something similar on the map, and the path should lead us to Butterfly Beach. I walked looking at the trees, hoping to see monkeys. Very often there were such spiders hanging over the road in their web.

I stepped on something. This something, slipping on my leg, crawled into the bushes. I didn’t even have time to be scared, but I shuddered. It didn't bite, and thank God! And that would be fun!

The path led us to the beach. But it was not a Butterfly at all, but just a small rocky cove.

Behind the stones, we saw two Indian women waving their hands at us and smiling affably. We waved and smiled back. Let's go back. We met a very simply dressed Indian family with children, going, apparently, for a picnic. We said hello and they broke into smiles. Until what, nevertheless, affable people! Having reached the fork, Verka wanted to return to Agonda, but I insisted, in order to try, nevertheless, to find Butterfly Beach. It was only half past ten. Let's go look. And the path became very narrow, and soon disappeared altogether. Poking back and forth, they found some kind of her likeness. Somewhere in the distance, the noise of cars was heard, and we all wandered, and could not find a normal path in any way. In the end, just go for the sound. And then I saw a herd of cows wandering towards us. A bull walked ahead, very small.

One horn stuck out forward, and the other back. When he saw us, he stopped in his tracks. We considered it best to get off the path into the tavern to make way for them. At the same time, they hid a red backpack behind their backs. Myths are myths, what if he reacts? And where, I wonder, are they wandering? And where? If only they could show me the way!


Verka freaked out and decided to take power into her own hands. With a confident step, she moved in the other direction, looking for a path there. Somehow we got onto the track and went towards Agonda. But I did not want to be hit by some local Schumacher, and I insisted that we turn back onto the dirt road. We approached Agonda, or rather crawled up at two o'clock. Verka said that she was going home to rest. They barely convinced her to go to a beach cafe and relax there on a sunbed. They blew a bottle of beer in half a gulp. Locked in the sea, we came to our senses and ordered dinner. We only had two and a half days left, and the rupees were still decent, so it was possible to shush a little. For lunch, we ordered a Sizzler dish that we had not yet tried, and again momos. Sisler was brought in a bowl.

The chicken breast was still sizzling on the cabbage leaf. But, in general, nothing special. There are a lot of show-offs, but little sense. Hen and hen. The momos here were much worse than in Maya. And the bill is twice as much.

After lunch, which cost us, this time, one and a half pieces, we decided to take a boat and sail the same, to Butterfly. Walking step, making disinterested faces, we went towards the boats. The owner of one of them came up to us and began to tell us that he would show us absolutely everything - Butterfly Beach, Moonlight Beach, and dolphins to boot! Three in one. And the whole set was offered for 1500 rupees. I tried, it was, to bring down the price, but the guy said that this is a good price and the rest, supposedly, it costs 1800. We said that we would think about it. Vadik returned to Verka, who was lying on a sunbed, and I went to the hotel in the hope of finding companions for skiing in order to reduce the cost of the walk.

As companions, I wanted to take a Russian family who settled in a neighboring hut. I didn't have high hopes. They had two children, the youngest of whom was not even a year old. But it was worth trying. As I thought, my mother refused, referring to the small one. Then I just chatted with her, because before that I somehow had no time. This is the third time they have been to Goa, they have no problems here with a small one. They feed her in a cafe, because they live in the same hut as ours, and they don’t have the opportunity to cook.

Returned to the beach. Let's go by ourselves! We loaded into the boat, the guys started the engine, and we swam.

Moving away from the shore, we began to look out for dolphins. And they did come! The guy said we were "lacky". He didn't even know how much. If a snake bit me today. . . But why think about it? After taking as many pictures of the dolphins as possible, I declared that I wanted to swim with them (with dolphins).


They (guys) agreed. I dived from the side and began to swim in the direction where I had seen dolphins before. But they did not want to swim close to me. Once, a dolphin's head just popped out of the water, wondering what kind of crocodile was swimming here? After chasing after them for a bit, I climbed back into the boat, almost pulling the guy who was dragging me into the water. Sailed further. We did not want to land on Moonlight Beach - there were a lot of people who landed from boats.

They landed on the Butterfly. I asked, is it possible to come here by land? The guy waved his hands, assuring me that it was impossible! I do not believe you! After taking a picture of the beach, we swam back.

On the way, the captain showed me people chiseling something on the coastal rocks. For a long time he tried to explain to me what exactly they produce. Until I finally figured it out. Oysters!

After paying off the owner of the boat, we decided to stay for some more time on the beach and see what grows on the stone. The waves have subsided today. It was a full moon and a crazy low tide.

The stones, which have been quite far from the shore all these days, almost completely protruded from the water. A local resident climbed them with a bag and a hammer. When he left, we also decided to climb to see what he was mining there. We found a mussel growing on a rock. It differed from ours in turquoise color along the edge of the shell. But then the lifeguard began to whistle and wave to us to leave. For some reason, he did not whistle at the local. Apparently, his duties also included protecting a piece of bread for the locals, from miners like us.


A couple of times at eight in the morning we saw a bus from Agonda Beach to Cola in the village. From the Internet, I knew that there are two Colas - small and large. We have seen some of them. But I would like to find another. So we decided to take this bus. Looking at the map, we saw that the village of Kola is located at a considerable distance from the beach of the same name and we need to get off at the crossroads. To explain myself to the conductor, I typed the word “crossroads” into Google translate. He gave me the translation "intersection". But how do you remember it? Write in the palm of your hand? Some association is needed. Sex between someone. Should be remembered! We went out at eight in the morning to the bridge not far from the church. Waited and waited, no bus! Maybe he doesn't go every day? Or does it not reach the bridge? We met him further. Nothing to do. You need to go to the highway and catch another bus going from Chaudi to Cola. They came and got it. Getting on the bus, I gave the conductor thirty rupees, saying that we were in Kola. Part of the way passed along the route already known to us, which we did on foot. Then the road went uphill. And below, a beautiful, rather large Indian temple appeared. The conductor took a package and threw it out the window. He's also a postman! Then he took a bag with milk packages. Will it be thrown out too? No, the bus slowed down and he handed the package to some woman. I seized the moment when he was not busy and said that we needed an intersection. He looked at me thoughtfully and shook his head from side to side. I regarded this gesture as a doubt about the possibility of fulfilling my request. But he said "OK! " And only then I remembered that I read about it in Shantaram and saw the movie Runaway Job. This gesture among the Hindus means consent. But it is one thing to read about it, and quite another to experience it in reality.

After dropping us off at the crossroads and showing us where the road leading to the beach begins, the conductor sped away with the bus. We went along the red road, dug, as it seemed, in the slope.

It reminded Verke of Jordan. Some kind of plant hung from above. Well cucumber cucumber! And the fruits are very similar, only round.

We saw these in a bag that was ripped apart by a cow at a greengrocer's. Narvav a dozen, stuffed them into the pockets of the backpack.

The red road took us half an hour later to the backyard of a beach hotel, on a tree next to which a monkey was jumping.

Going ashore, we realized that this is the same beach, we just got to it by a different road. But today there were absolutely no waves, and you could swim safely. However, the depth gain was instantaneous. A meter from the shore was already with a head. Therefore, Verka did not climb here, but was content with a fresh lake. Refreshed, we all went together to the far end of the beach in order to find a path to another Kola.

A man was sitting in the shade reading from his phone. I asked him if there was a path to the next beach. He did not know, but climbed to look on the phone. The path was not visible on the map. Thanking, Vadik and I went to look for her, leaving Verka not far from the reading "Mr. " and promising not to wander for a long time. Coming out on the road among the palm trees, we rather quickly rounded the cape and went to the next beach.

Continued here >>>

Translated automatically from Russian. View original
To add or remove photos in a story, go to album of this story
 сизлер
 пляж Агонда. Вид из кафе Rico's
 отлив на пляже Агонда
 дельфины
 скала Черепаха
 пляж Мунлайт
 пляж Баттерфляй
 Агонда бич
 дорога на пляж Кола
 пляж Кола
 дорога с Большой Колы на Маленькую
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