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Big cities, empty trains

04 august 2016 • Travel time: with 02 April 2016 on 16 April 2016
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The idea to visit Italy in the spring of 2016, I had in the summer of 2015 (after returning from Switzerland-France), probably not only me - the first few weeks after returning from a trip the most difficult to sit still - I want to open new cities and countries. Especially since Italy was practically not open to me: 7 years ago, a bus tour took a few hours to Genoa and Padua, and in 2014 I sailed from Croatia to Venice for one day. Circumstances at that time contributed: the dollar and the euro reached a stable, albeit high state, Kyiv-Milan tickets were still within reasonable limits - about 2800 UAH (110 euros) for RT and there was stability with the work. However, with the approach of Independence Day (24.08) tickets from promotional fares to my destinations began to disappear quickly, and the next fare after the promo, was already at 5100 UAH (195 euros), the site did not have time to take, had to contact TA.


They managed to catch 3860 hryvnias (147 euros), there were no monitors below my dates before the trip. It was 7 months and 10 days from the day of purchase to the flight…

Day 1. Departure 02.04. 2016. March in Kyiv seemed cold, the temperature was about 0, with rare warming, so the question of the number of things in luggage was relevant. The weather in Italy (according to weather forecast sites) for the first half of April also did not spoil the stability, giving a daily range from +9 to +26 C. Therefore, decided to reinsure, taking things for different weather, the result was a lot. On the way back we responded ...On April 2, early on a cold morning (t = +2 C) we set out for Boryspil. They flew a standard Boeing 737-800, took off and landed on schedule. Milan airport was not particularly impressed, except for too long (~ 20 minutes) waiting for luggage.

The city, namely the Central Station, was reached by Airport Bus (8 euros, departure every 20 minutes, regardless of capacity, in contrast to the Kiev Sky Bus, which runs from Boryspil to Kiev as full. ) (Milan was already In the spring heat, although gloomy, everything blossomed. The train to Florence at ours at 16:35 (took a ticket 08.12. 2015 for 38 euros out of two, the company "Italotreno"). So there was about an hour and a half of free time. "Milano Centrale" is a monumental huge multi-level building, built in the 1930s, with a large number of confectioneries, fast food, shops, souvenirs, integrated with the metro station.

Information about our train appeared on the board 15 minutes before departure, the train was a connection Turin-Salerno, the latter I associated with the south of Italy, the warmth and the resort in general J. The mood immediately rose!


The train initially went around Milan, mostly sleeping areas, but still managed to get some impression of the city. Multi-storey buildings (6-8 floors) are mostly single-storey, the density of settings is very high, but all the houses are decorated with tiles with nice patterns, which for some reason does not fall off, although the houses are clearly more than a decade. The train was traveling at a very good speed (280-300 km / h), so the picture outside the window changed very quickly. Just 50 km from Milan, well-groomed farms have already started, very solid areas.

Despite the average gloom, it was possible to see that the plantations covered with special nets seemed to be illuminated by a large number of small white lights… The realization that I see grapes blooming did not come immediately. For some reason I thought that this phenomenon occurs only in May-June, but northern Italy is in a slightly different climate zone.

The train went almost by express, without stops, far from the population points. Above one of them, I saw a huge Boeing taking off with the characteristic inscription "Ryanair", the traveler's intuition suggested that Bologna should be somewhere close. This feeling did not deceive me - 10 minutes later the train began to slow down and enter the tunnel, which suddenly turned out to be the station "Bologna Centrale" (we met him on the way back, the station is more than unusual, even for Italy).

Between Bologna and Florence we pass several tunnels, from which we leave, as expected, in a valley surrounded by low hills. Welcome to Tuscany! We arrive in Florence at 18:20. Of all the stations I visited on this trip, I liked Florence the most.

Clean, well-groomed, with huge black and white vintage photos on the walls, with a minimum of outlets, a fairly large waiting room and the availability of traditional ticket offices for advanced travelers. So, we go to the station square. It is difficult to describe the first feelings from what I saw. Authentic medieval buildings in pastel colors with flat tiled roofs on narrow streets, spiers and domes of churches, small jagged towers, subconsciously looking for signs of modernity (but except for modern eco-buses I do not notice anything yet).


We arrived in real medieval Italy, which has changed minimally in a few centuries and is only slightly decorated for tourists, but decorated for exactly as much as we do not miss, without pretentious nausea. Our hotel Kursaal & Ausonia is located on via Nazionale (as I noticed from this trip via Nazionale and Piazza Repubblica is in almost every Italian city), about 400 meters from the station.

We walk on incredibly narrow sidewalks, no more than 1 meter wide, two oncoming tourists with suitcases to disperse is really a problem, on the one hand just a few inches from you moving stream of cars, and on the other, also a few inches - the city is booming, cafes , shops, hairdressers, locals communicate, almost every entrance hangs a sign with the name of a hotel. For me, the latter is somewhat unusual, where people live, if every door to the house is a hotel?

As it turned out, everything is much simpler: in all my few previous trips I had to stay only in hotels that occupy a separate building or at least a separate entrance. In Italy, as it turned out, everything is much simpler: the hotel can be considered one or more combined and rebuilt apartments in a residential building.

It turned out the same with our "Kursaal & Ausonia" - they occupied half of the second floor and the entire third in an old apartment building. We got a room on the second floor (the level of the entrance to the entrance floor is not considered, ie the first floor is actually the second, so the second and third - in our opinion it is the third and fourth). We got a room on the second (noticed when booking "quiet" - meant with windows to the courtyard, not a very noisy street) floor, and the reception and restaurant were upstairs. Room of normal area with freshly renovated, antique furniture, but beds with new mattresses.

Value for money is quite consistent (228 euros per Twin with breakfast and city fees for 3 nights), to the historic city center no more than 15 minutes. The elevator is very close, but you can't hear it.


The only downside - weak soundproofing of rooms from the corridor, our neighbors were Chinese who come after 24:00, so the impressions are still the same… By the time we got there and settled in, the time was approaching 8 pm, of course visiting the store of the most popular in Italy network "Conad" (located on our street halfway to the station, open until 21-00), although, as it turned out, almost opposite was a small grocery store (traders - Vietnamese or Filipinos), and a little further - a shop of Chinese trifles "all for 1 euro", but there is an Italian seller J.

"Traditional Italian breakfast" consists of a large number of sweets (several types of croissants, jams, cookies, cakes, fruit) and only 1 type of cheese and sausage slicing. Hot dishes (omelet, boiled eggs, sausages) are not provided. Yogurts, milk, butter and juices are present. Coffee - simply by definition J.

This set of products was present in absolutely all hotels on our route, stars from 0 * to 4 *, so I do not return to the topic of hotel breakfasts. Probably, this is a standard approved by the local tourism control body, I just can't explain such unanimity. The only thing is that breakfast was not taken in Venice, so I can't judge its possible local features.

After breakfast we go to get acquainted with the city. 100 meters from our hotel is one of the attractions of Florence - the huge ancient market of San Lorenzo.

On the perimeter it is surrounded on all sides by rows of souvenirs, Chinese consumer goods and leather goods, which is one of the most famous souvenirs from Florence.

Blades of Florentine masters (and the coat of arms of the city presents a melee weapon with a characteristic brand in the form of a lily) were not observed, although there may be specialized stores of this profile, as, for example, in Toledo, Spain. Earlier, quite cool, one-day bus tourists have not been brought yet, who arrived the day before (like us) a little more, so we can explore the historic part of the city without fuss. Gradually we come to the city's business card - the Cathedral. This majestic building, with a visible dome from afar, lined with white and green marble, for unprepared tourists, is a real culture shock.

Another shock on this day for us was the holding of an athletics race in the city center, including the shroud and the Cathedral. Of course, access to the Cathedral, the Baptistery and the Campanile was blocked. On the street. Riccoli we go out on the street. Tornabuoni, where according to reviews many inexpensive stores.


But of the open (Sunday) there is only Benetton, which, as you know, is not cheap. The area here is not very touristy, so via Strozzi (looking at the Palazzo Strozzi and relaxing in its small courtyard) we go to the Republic Square (Piazza Della Repubblica). The exit is through a beautiful decorated arch, and the street. Strozzi in relation to the square of the Republic is a passage. Passages and arches, by the way, are very common in the ancient areas of many Italian cities (seen in Rome, Naples, Milan). Republic Square seems to be a place of rest for citizens, many benches, there is a children's French carousel, many cafes around.

Then we move via Roma to the river. On the next square is the New Market (Mercato Nuovo), the main range - leather goods, as well as a sculpture of one of the symbols of Florence - the Wild Boar, in the mouth of which tourists randomly put coins. Then turning onto the street.

Vacchereccia overlooks Piazza Signoria, where the other pearls of Florence are located - Palazzo Veccio with a jagged roof, which crowns the Clock Tower, as well as Galleria Degli Uffizi (Uffizi Gallery), famous for masterpieces of Renaissance painting and sculpture. On the street still 03.04. 2016, the first Sunday of April, and the first day of each month (except May 1), admission to the Gallery is free (on other days the cost of tickets is very solid - 16.50 euros). Of course, the turn. It took 40 minutes. During this time I managed to run to the nearest cafe for mini-pizzas (4 euros / piece).

) In the queue of the audience from around the world are Italian groups of students, but no one is scandalizing and trying to get through the queue, all European culturally. Probably because armed carabinieri follow the order (near the Cathedral of Santa Maria del Fiore in the same way), and there are armored cars nearby. Free tickets are handed out at the entrance, and things are passed through a scanner. There is no reason to describe the Office Gallery, it's just a must see.

The entourage of the most ancient house with wooden ceilings and ceilings helps to fully immerse yourself in the Middle Ages. But, despite this, the museum has a modern elevator, on the roof - a terrace with beautiful views and a cafe. In general, the museum spent three hours, the return trip, of course, through a gift shop. Exit through the other wing on the street. Lambertesca. So even more convenient - closer to the Ponte Veccio bridge. Photos on its background from this shore are not very convenient due to the narrowness of the promenade and the large number of tourists.


The bridge is full of souvenir shops and boutiques. On one of the perpendicular streets we notice a very interesting object - a bench in the shape of a huge spoon, as well as the facade of the building, hung with spoons of different sizes. The idea is not entirely clear, apparently due to the depletion of the planet's minerals. The house with spoons on the facade, by the way, the hotel.

Walking through the surrounding streets we find "Gelateria self-service", the prices for the same lotto (ice cream) are impressive - 8 euros for a mix of three types. We understand that we are on a tourist trail (100 meters to the city and as much to Uffizi) and the prices are not quite adequate. On the Republic Square (opposite H&M) we find a wonderful coffee shop-confectionery (the turn to the street testifies to the beauty) where a mix of 3 different types will cost 3.50 E. The taste is excellent. It is already evening, we are moving towards the hotel, of course, in another way.

We come to the Gallery of the Academy and St. Mark's Square (still believed that these objects are only in Venice: -)). The area is surprisingly low-tourist, just enjoy the beauty. We reach the hotel from the other side, through Piazza della Indipendenza. In the large flowerbeds of the square, local teenagers do not hesitate to play football, instead of gates - trees and backpacks. Almost like me 20-25 years ago in my old but very green area of ​ ​ Kyiv J.

The only downside of the bus - goes by European standards, rarely - only 3 times an hour. On the way to the station, we find on our via Nazionale two fairly budget both for Italy, network department stores - PiazzaItalia and OVS. So, wandering the narrow streets of the district….


Next we return a bit back via Romana (naturally, past the Palazzo Pitti, which is naturally, also closed as the Gardens) to Piazza Santo Spirito. Here, according to reviews, good traditional Tuscan catering establishments. Lunch at the Osteria Santo Spirito (2 soups, salad, spaghetti, 2 wines) - 24 euros. Coperto is on. Then we find the stop of the 12th bus again and go to the best observation deck of the city - Michelangelo Square. With a sculpture of David the Great Author. The road is very steep, many parks and private villas. The right-bank part of Florence is definitely more hilly, wooded and parked, in contrast to the Left Bank. Drive from the waterfront for about half an hour.

It is already summer heat (> 25 ° C), the views of the city are impressive! There are also enough tourists and souvenir points. About 30 minutes were enough for a photo shoot against the backdrop of the city and the surrounding hills. Let's go back to the twelfth, of course another route.

The return route passes through a relatively modern part of the city: Ponte San Niccolo - Viale Giovanne Amendola - Piazza Cesar Beccaria - Viale Antonio Gramasci - Piazza della Liberty - Viale Spartaco Lavagnini - Viale Santa Caterina d’Alessandria. We go to the square. . Independence, drove 30 minutes. On the way back there were controllers, caught a few "hares" of Indo-Pakistani appearance.

Day 4. Today moving to Rome. The train is not very early (departure at 12:33, arrival at 14:05, ticket price 19 euros, again "ItaloTreno" bought on 11.12. 2015), the hotel kindly agreed to extend the check-out until 11:30. The move was short, the car was about 60% full. In Rome, the best hotel prices are near the Termini Central Train Station or in the vicinity of the sleeping areas.

Chose the hotel "Luce 4 *" 326 E / 4 nights for Twin with breakfast, to the station no more than 100 meters. About 150 - to the metro station and a large junction of city buses and trolleybuses. Located in an old building, the hotel looks very chic, although in some places it has fallen into disrepair.


The 11m2 twin room is, of course, cramped, but the entourage of the room compensates for the inconvenience, and, by and large, we only spent the night in it. Of the serious disadvantages - WiFi only in the lobby, no rooms. After staying at the hotel, we go towards the Colosseum. First impression of Rome - we are in the southern city, clean air, surrounded by many palm trees and cypresses. To the Colosseum we move to the street. Kavur, the area is authentically beautiful, though sparsely populated, car traffic is decent. We pass a small square (he noticed that in the old medieval areas of Italian cities with green planted voltages) is the Church of Santa Maria Maggiore. To reach the Colosseum, I had to under.

turn right at via D. Cardetto, which turns into Via Del Colosseo. There are city buses near the Arena Street, but the schedule has not been studied before, to go from the station nearby, slowly for a maximum of 20 minutes.

This is not my first such Arena, a year and a half ago I saw a similar one in Pula J. But the Colosseum in Rome is still unique in its kind and is one of the main symbols of Rome, if not the main one. The arena is surrounded by a decent queue of people wishing to get inside. , the clock is already about 16, let as if to 19, but I'm not such a fan of antiquity to stand for 2-3 hours in line. After a photo shoot against the background of the Colosseum and the surrounding fragments of antiquity (which is in plain sight), we move up the street. Del Fori Imperiali to the Monument to Vittorio Emmanuel. The monument is very pompous and ambiguous. Eternal fire burns near the complex and the guard of honor is on duty. Admission is free, but you have to climb seemingly endless stairs. Inside the building - there are two museums.

There are a lot of tourists around.


The monument stands on a large square called Piazza Venezia (on the left are the Venetian Palace and the Church of St. Mark), very spectacular photos come from the opposite end of the square. And sometimes it's past 6 pm, so we start looking for a place where you can have dinner. By law, the surrounding streets with cafes and restaurants are tense - or small shops or eateries with fast food. On the street. On November 4, some state institutions start. We get out on the street. On May 24, we reach the Quirinal Palace - but the situation there is no better than L. Finally, via via Consulta we go down to revive the street. National. In one of the nearby alleys we find a decent cafe, with an unexpected Russian menu. Dinner (2 spaghetti, 1 salad "from the chef", juices) costs 22.50 euros. The envelope seemed to be gone, the owner (aka the waiter) brought a handwritten invoice on a sheet of J torn from a notebook.

We make a supply of drinking water (in tourist places water is unrealistically expensive, 0.5 liters - 2.5-3.0 euros), as well as buy local culinary specialties, the benefit of the hotel room is a refrigerator. I can not fail to note the peculiarity of this store - the entrance and exit are located on different parallel streets, so if in the evening "suddenly" go to another street - do not be afraid J. Almost opposite "Konada" (impossible not to notice) on a high-rise office building illuminated advertising of the popular Italian publication "Corriere della Sport", which evokes memories of my childhood, my farewells in front of the TV, along with "France football", "Kicker", "Marca", etc. Maybe there is just an editorial office specified media

Day 5. In the morning after breakfast we are going to go to the Vatican. Bus №46 will help us with this, tickets are bought at the newsstand at the station (1.50 euros for 60 minutes).

As I said above, next to the station "Roma Termini" is a large transport hub: more than 10 bus and trolleybus routes, shuttles to "Fiumicino" and "Ciampino", and the metro station, of course. The wanted bus is quite rare (about once every 20-25 minutes, there is no exact schedule at stops), a lot of passengers, tickets, of course, must be composted. Drive about 30 minutes, morning time, almost rush hour, the streets are decent traffic jams. You must get off at the Borgo San Spirito stop. The approach of the Vatican is evidenced by the sharp increase in the number of police and carabinieri, flashing in the distance colorful costumes of the Vatican guards. Literally 3 minutes walk - and we are near the famous colonnade, which is actually the border of the Vatican City State. We still see on the square of St.

Peter's huge crowd of people - in the square is a morning Mass, conducted directly by Pope Benedict XVI.


Passages through the colonnade are blocked by police, people are allowed past several entrances. Bags and outerwear are passed through the conveyor, people are called with metal detectors. There are many people in the square, but not tied, many in national costumes and with flags (recognized representatives of Portugal, Poland, some South American countries), the Pope's speech is broadcast through amplifiers, and the image is displayed on several large screens. Access to St. Peter's Cathedral during Mass (service) is closed. Despite the early hours (around 10:30 am), it is already quite hot. A Poste Vatican mobile post van is located on the outskirts of the square. Traditionally, I buy a postcard to send home in memory. Prices: postcard with views of the Vatican 0.5 euros, envelope with stamp 1.

20 euros, a pen with the symbols of the Vatican 2.0 euros, a package with the symbols of the Vatican 0.4 euros.

While serving at the post office, when he found out which country I needed the stamp for, he said in English that he was also from Ukraine. But due to a long queue for me, I did not have time to develop this topic. But since I was wearing a T-shirt with Ukrainian symbols, I was greeted in my native language by one of the priests, of whom there were many in the square. His clothes were not typical of the UGCC ministers (I will not say that I never visited the URCC), perhaps he represented one of the monastic orders, of which there are several in Rome. But the mass ended, the area began to empty quickly. At the same time, a queue of people wishing to visit the Cathedral began to form in the right part of the square. They stood in line. We are not moving very fast.

Personally, I was most impressed by Michelangelo's sculpture The Great Pieta (especially in the context of the history of its creation) and the sarcophagus where Pontiff John Paul II is buried. Entrance to the Sistine Chapel is paid, we did not go.

20 euros, ice cream - 2.50 euros, salad - 5.50 euros, pasta - 5. Back the second part of the way decided to take the elevator, tickets were not checked, elevators for ascent and descent, by the way different, went to another part of the Cathedral. For almost 3 hours in the afternoon, we leave the Vatican, moving on via de Conciliazione, despite the fact that it is no longer the Vatican, there are many embassies and missions in the Vatican, many layouts with souvenirs and drinking water. Finding a decent place to dine again is problematic. As a result, we have lunch at via de Conciliazione 2/4. The cafe is openly touristy, there are tables with self-service, there is service. Prices are inflated: 2 hot dishes and a salad pulled in 32.20 euros.


However, some local "Vatican" tax is included, 2x2 euros. Nearby is the castle of St. Angelo (which for some reason many call the castle of St. Angel). In the castle - a museum, but around a small, very nice park.

It is patrolled, by the way, by cavalry police. This, by the way, is typical for the whole of Italy - in the green recreation area the entry of vehicles is prohibited, there are no exceptions, even for police cars. Resting in the park, we move along the river embankment. Tiber, enjoying the freshness, young greenery, and contemplating the classic houses of the "eternal city" of classic Roman flowers, an indefinite century of construction. The bridge named after Kavura we cross to the opposite bank of the Tiber on a small area. The place is quite touristy - on the one hand Palazzo Borghese, on the other hand - the Church of San Rocco, a little further - the Mausoleum of Emperor Augustus. Take the narrow via di Ripetta towards Piazza del Poppolo.

The People's Square is famous for its twin churches (one of which is partially covered by restoration shields), as well as two twin buildings a little further, to the right of which is the Leonardo da Vinci Museum.

Immediately behind the square begin the usual non-tourist Roman quarters. There is also the final stop of a modern-looking Roman tram (going somewhere in the suburbs), for some reason tram routes to the city center are not allowed… People's Square is very cozy, not least because it overhangs one of the hills of Rome, where Villa Borghese . The ascent is quite steep, there is no sidewalk as such, you have to constantly dodge motorcyclists scurrying up and down. The villa is located in a dense huge forest park, for diluted interests with various sculptures. It is said that there is a sculpture of NV Gogol. I did not see, although I did not specifically look for it.

The fact that in such a green place with this view there are many cafes and restaurants, I think, should not be reminded.


We return to via Corzo (the street is quite shopping, many cheap boutiques, but unlike the similar via Nazionale, a simple one, there are very few hotels, few people of Arab-African appearance, live mostly Italians, a large number of tourists do not bother them, for desire, you can watch scenes of people's lives). The goal is to reach the square. Spain, admire the stairs of the same name and take the subway to the hotel, because the walking opportunities are still not limitless. The goal was achieved in 20 minutes, the area of ​ ​ Spain is really very beautiful, the queue for the fountain "boat" for photography is very small, the Spanish Steps are partially restored, the passage is closed, but the photos are relatively good. We finally get on the subway at Spagna station. The Roman metro is the worst thing I've ever seen in Rome.

First, an unreasonably long underground passage (200 meters, probably in a straight line), and turnstiles for ticket validation were located approximately in the middle, then the descent on very narrow escalators. So narrow that it is almost impossible to separate two passengers (if, for example, one of them is in a hurry). But this is similar to the traditional Italian metro - in Naples and Milan, the escalators are also no different in width, want the impression of the subway in these two cities-antipodes much more positive. And here's the main thing - the underground subway platforms in Rome are very dimly lit, almost semi-dark, you feel frankly uncomfortable. Apparently, the subway in Rome is heavily guarded to reassure passengers.

Moreover, the platform is guarded not by elegantly undressed policemen as in tourist places (and in different cities the police uniform is very different in design), but by a very serious unit in camouflage with automatic weapons, bulletproof vests and helmets. There are large groups (5-6 people), of course, do not allow to photograph themselves, even from afar. I have never seen such specialists anywhere else in Rome, not even in the Vatican. And here is the train. Despite the rush hour (about 19-30 pm, weekdays) go by our standards rarely - once every 6 minutes, very crowded, but we do not go long, only 3 stops, somehow endure. We finally go to "Termini". Ironically, the station is calmer than the subway. The day ends traditionally in Konada

Day 6. There are no clear plans for today.


We decide to arrange a mini-tour "Fountains of Rome" (Fountain of the Four Rivers - Trevi Fountain - Triton Fountain - Square of the Four Fountains), naturally, along the way distracted by various curiosities. We take bus 46 again, but get off a few stops earlier, near Navona. Piazza Navona is narrow and quite long, in addition to the Fountain of 4 Rivers, the Fountain, the Obelisk, there is also the Church of St. Agnes, Palazzo Pamfili and Palazzo Brasci. Navona Square is a very touristy place, there are many artists, musicians, there are cafes and souvenir shops. Then, through narrow streets, we reach Montesitori Square, where the Palace of the same name and a very high obelisk are located. There is obviously an administrative building in the Palace, because there are a lot of security guards and journalists with video equipment. A little further we go to the already familiar shopping street Sorso.

You can't even put your hand in the water, the same guards are interfering.

The place is very nice, I do not want to go. Still, we walk the narrow streets, learning the local flavor - once a shop selling wooden figurines Pinocchio-Pinocchio of various sizes, whose design has not changed for centuries, a column of drinking water right in the middle of the street, courtyards covered with ivy and etc. We go to the wide highway Via De Tritone. There are no more attractions, many fashionable shops and restaurants. The area is business, as evidenced by the large office-dressed public. We go to the square near the Barberini metro, where the Triton Fountain is located. It's lunch time, it would be nice to have a snack. According to the law of harmfulness, there are only dubious self-services and fast food around. We go down the street. Della Quattra Fontano on the way admiring the Palazzo Barberini, which houses one of the museums.

Finally, we come to the square of the same name, where in the niches of four different buildings and hid all four fountains.

Made in a very interesting style, probably during their construction already used reinforced concrete technology. There we have lunch in the restaurant "Four Fountains". At the intersection with via Nazionale we visit a large but not online grocery store Pyramyda, prices are basically standard. We taste local simple ice cream (0.90 euros per pack), very good. Then, resting in a small garden between the streets of Nacional and Cavour (it seems that this area is called Veminale), we move towards the Church of San Pietro in Vincoli. Find it is not so easy, from the crossroads near the station. Cavour metro, then right on the narrow street Via In Celci, then right again on the street. Via Fragrane, where 100 meters and you will see the Church of San Pietro in Vincoli with beautiful arches at the entrance. There are no pointers. If in doubt, ask passers-by for directions.


Admission to the Church is free, as evidenced by the relevant announcement with a clarifying sign that no one should pay money for admission!

On the right - the ministry…. Here he got acquainted with a very interesting type of transport - a hybrid of trolleybus and bus, a vehicle moving on the route №90 and equipped with both electric motor and gasoline (diesel). Although it is possible that the second engine uses a battery. Where the contact wire network ends (and it ended in Piazza Porte Pia) - the bars are lowered (and in automatic mode, no one pulls the ropes) and the trolleybus turns into a bus, continuing its route by using energy produced in another way .

(30-40 years ago, such trolleybuses also operated in Kyiv, were called "trolleybuses" and were used mainly for freight transportation)

Day 7. Today is a day trip to Naples. . Train Rome-Naples at 09:26 (took 04.02. 2016 cost 9 euros each, TrenItalia). The train to Naples is almost empty, there are 3 more passengers in the car besides us.

Views from the windows south of Rome are significantly different from those north of Rome. First, the forests are mostly coniferous, the settlements are small, the houses are mostly modern, many are abandoned. There were industrial enterprises and stone quarries. We drove 2 hours, many stops. Why did you choose this train - the others left very early (around 8 am, breakfast at the hotel from 7 and the ticket price is higher). We were 15 minutes late, suddenly the train stopped 15 minutes in front of Naples train station.

Naples is the third largest city in Italy (population about 950 thousand inhabitants), so it provided a large area and distance, based on which he planned his route. However, the reality was different. While standing "in a traffic jam" near the station, we managed to get a good look at the area of ​ ​ the business city that literally hangs over it.


The dominant role was played by four 25-storey brick houses, sometimes even with glazed balconies, which is not typical for Western Europe in general and for Italy in particular. As you may have guessed, Naples is a city of high-rise buildings! This explains the location of such a large population in such a small area. Houses built in the late 19th - first half of the 20th century. in. - As a rule, 8-storey, in the second half of the 20th century - 14-storey. There are, of course, exceptions to the rules, but you have to look specifically.

At the station "Napoli Centrale" (beautiful, new clean building) we were waiting for the first surprise. According to my existing public transport schemes, the station was connected to the center by only one metro line (blue), on which, having changed to the red at the station "Cavour-Museo", we planned to get to the central square. Dante. However, most recently, the red metro line was extended to the Municipio station near the station.

So, having bought tickets for the whole day (8 tickets for 1 trip for 1 euro each, the cable car is valid), we were literally in 10 minutes in the city center. A few words about the metro of Naples - as I said, it is new, the stations are clean and sparsely populated. The stations are decorated in a rather unexpected avant-garde style. Nobody seems to forbid taking photos. So we are already in Dante Square.

Of course, at first we wanted to go to the city center from the station by the traditional route - the colorful local street via Tribunale, but after making a discount on the distance (3 km) and the time we had, we chose public transport. Central Area. Cloudy and windy. palm trees. Shops. Very few tourists. Monument to Dante Alighieri. There are several souvenir tents nearby (I haven't seen any more souvenirs in the city). On the contrary - the old quarter, houses with towers. The church is organically built into the quarter.

From under the beautiful semicircular colonnade through the traditional for old Italian cities arches-passages and stretches from the center via the Tribunale. They looked for literally a couple of minutes for a hundred meters, the street is pedestrian and very narrow, all the first floors - cafes and shops, among the last - an unexpected number of second-hand bookstores. There are both solo tourists and groups with guides. Via Toledo - via S. Anna del Lombardi - via Capitelli we go to the Cathedral of Gesu Nuovo.


All my ideas about the city are completely confirmed. The city is noisy, with heavy traffic. The old houses have darkened from time to time and the local authorities are not too bothered with their restoration. The strong dissimilarity of the city (especially after Florence and Rome) is very much felt. The Portuguese city of Porto reminded me of something. There are few police on the streets. But near the Gesu Nuovo Cathedral, where we arrived in 15 minutes, there are security forces with machine guns. The cathedral is also built into the city quarter and is not particularly noticeable from the outside.

However, its size and interior are impressive. At the Cathedral in the late 19th - early 20th century. lived doctor Giuseppe Muscatti, who healed from incurable diseases at the time and selflessly helped the poor. In 1996, Giuseppe Muscatti was canonized by the Vatican. Opposite the Cathedral is the ancient Church of Santa Chiara. Again we go to via S. Anna del Lombardi.

The density of people on the narrow streets is increasing - there is one of the faculties of the local University, many students. The color of Naples, in addition to the arcades, is complemented by stairs leading from the main streets to the perpendicular, although the old part of the city is not very hilly. On the way we visit the local supermarket. I planned to try the local fruit, which grows in the south of Italy and is not sold in our country - medlar (Italian Nespalo) - but the store said that now is not the season. I didn't see medlar jams either.

We go to Matteotti Square, there are many office buildings (local authorities, post office). The latter, though, is very old. Judging by the plaque, the building (Anno 1936), but due to the fact that the facade is decorated with light marble, at the age of 80 it does not look like J. From the State Square with the metro station of the same name, return to Toledo Street.

The purpose of our route is an observation deck near the castle of San Telmo with views of the city, Vesuvius and the bay. We went to Fugue, although there may be a shorter route. The metro, by the way, also goes to the upper town - there is a station near the red line Vanvitelli. From Fugue to San Telmo walk slowly 15 minutes, first there are signs, the path is facilitated by three escalators, the area is pleasant, mostly modern 14-storey buildings and private villas, but you can not turn there. Route: via Scarlatti - via Morghan (she meanders, don't get lost) - via Bonita. On via Bonita there is a ring bus v1, but we did not drive up.


If you see bus stops - then you are on the right track and do not go long. Observation deck - directly at the final bus stop. Types of tests! The castle of San Telmo (there is a museum) was not planned, in one day you can see only the most important things. If we come to Naples for a few days - then the museum is possible.

We returned the same way, although it was tempting to go down the Amedeo funicular, it has a lower station closer to the sea, but decided not to take risks, because there was not much time left before our train. So, going down to Toledo again, we walk quickly to the sea. We go to the piazza Plebiscito (People's Square). The San Carlo Theater is setting up a stage for a concert in the restoration near the Royal Palace. We refuse to look for a bottle with 100 dollars (from the project "Eagle and Tail"), the hosts hid near the Palace, the place is lively, probably already found and taken to us.

We go down to the sea, it is already warm, local trees (varieties unknown to me) are already in full bloom with bright colors. Naples is known to be the birthplace of pizza, so it would be impossible not to try it here. And if you add - that this is a seaside town, I wanted a pizza with marine motifs. At via C. Console we find a large, but not touristy, and apparently not cheap pizzeria.

We order pizza with anchovies (there is no seafood in the range, and the fact that Marinara has no embroidery to the sea - it has long been known J. ) and salad. With all the fees you get 26 euros. The pizza is delicious though quite spicy. Pizza in Naples with sea views - what could be better! In the afternoon we go down to the sea through a small park, the wind blows from the sea, filling us with the unique aroma of the Mediterranean! The first sailboats continue to turn white, the season has probably not started yet, in the yard only on April 8. But Naples, as you know, is not a resort town, but a port.


Immediately after the park begins the area of ​ ​ the seaport (Stazione Marittima). According to the information boards, flights are operated only to the nearby islands (Ponza, Ventotene, Ischia, Procida, Capri), as well as to the somewhat remote Aeolian Islands. Sicily and Sardinia are not sailed from here. A little far on the waterfront - another calling card of Naples - the castle "Castel Nuovo". But good photos do not work, because

the embankment itself is under restoration, surrounded by a lot of construction equipment and even very disturbing shooting, cranes. In one of the confectioneries we treat ourselves to a very good Italian dessert - rum baba (large 1.50 euros, small 0.90 euros). It is noteworthy that in the confectionery to the grandmother you can order a lot of different alcoholic beverages for every taste (at least 50), including the Hungarian balm Unicum. Limited to coffee.

The sellers call loudly and insistently to divert attention as much as possible, so that their colleagues can climb into your bag or pocket. They tried to climb us twice. The police, of course, are not here by definition. Instead, everything is cultural at the station, there is no trader, only passengers. Tip: it is best to come and go to Napoli Centrale by metro, the good thing is that there are two lines.

There is also a train "Circumvesuviana", but it does not go to the city, but where - guess yourself J. Under the station (and partly under the square) built a so-called art space, with exhibition halls, a small concert venue, cafes and shops. In OVS I see good summer jeans 16.99 euros. I decide to buy because I have never seen such a size of mine in other cities. At the station of Naples (as well as the Florentine, by the way) is a piano, which is played by passengers to reduce the time waiting for the train. At the Neapolitan station played especially noisy and fun ...

We went back by train at 19:15 (last flight of the day), the car was 100% busy, there were a lot of people with a very office look. The train arrived in Rome unexpectedly 10 minutes earlier than scheduled. Departed on schedule, thus increasing parking time

Day 8. Today we leave Rome and move to the northeast of Italy to the resort town of Rimini.


Of course, there is a direct train "Frecciabianca", but its departure (around 21:00 pm and arrival in Rimini around 24:00) did not suit us, so we chose the option with transfers. Train Rome-Bologna (ItaloTreno, departure at 10:45, arrival at 13:00, ticket price 19 euros each, tickets bought on 05.01. 2016), then Bologna-Rimini (TrenItalia, departure at 14:00 arrival at 15:00 ), the cost of tickets for 7.75 euros, bought on 18.02. 2016). There was another train at 14:20 from Bologna to Rimini, but I decided to insure myself in case of train delay and not knowing the station at all. As it turned out, not in vain J. 09.

04 - the eighth day of the trip, the middle of the road, driving as if back, thoughts of going back, and on the same road as in Rome, and the brightest cities (Florence, Rome, Naples) have already been seen, caused a slight sadness … Meanwhile, the hills were getting greener, the sun was getting brighter, spring was coming into its own more and more.

In Bologna, we arrived at the underground part of the station, in time, there was still plenty of time, so I decided to take a look around the city. I did not expect much in 30-40 minutes, but I saw the characteristic red architecture of the city and a large number of educational institutions per unit of space. Ours is no exception. Surprisingly, it turned out that this platform did not exist at all! The only way the escalator pointed was up! We are slowly rising to the next level. Parking.

Two accidentally discovered taxi drivers do not understand English at all. It is semi-dark and there is no escalator ...It is less than 10 minutes before the train leaves. We notice the elevator.

Which solemnly lifts us to the surface, to the sunlight, to the level of the upper platforms. Hooray! We find the train and the car in a few tens of seconds. Have time! The car is usually empty. But this is no longer a traditional "open-space", but a well-forgotten coupe with transparent doors and seats on the contrary. In the last seconds, a hacked group of Italian schoolchildren bursts into the car, unloaded after literally 20 minutes at one of the first stations. Well, you can relax, although our station is not the final one, the train follows all the way to Lecce (the heel of the Italian boot).

We drive through agricultural Italy with flowering fields and a chain of mountains stretching into the distance, somewhere on top of which lurks the small but proud Republic of San Marino, which is also the largest duty-free shop in Europe, where we will try to go tomorrow.

We are in Rimini on time.


The train station is only 2 minutes away. For the first time in Italy, I see how the train is met by the police near each car (only 6 cars), calmly and methodically forcing to present the documents of all passengers of non-European appearance. According to the tradition of Italian coastal cities, Rimini also welcomes tourists who arrived by residential skyscraper, near the station J. However, the Romans surpassed the Neapolitans - a 26-storey skyscraper.

Rimini is a very resort town, along the waterfront there are three lines of hotels, a lot of people who obviously live here, or rest for a very long time. Shops on the promenade (called closer to the station viale Amerigo Vespucci, and after - viale Regina Elena). The street between the first line of hotels and the beach is called Lungomare. After settling we went for a walk around the city, almost immediately we were covered by rain, from which we quite successfully hid in the store Carrefour J. Almost all the shops on the street. Vespucci - Chinese consumer goods with Chinese sellers working to the bottom. There are shops with quality things, but they close earlier.

We didn't know exactly what Azur and Atlant looked like and where they were. Therefore, they passed (in the mountains of large shopping centers would obviously be). Well, let's visit on the way back. In San Marino, the bus drove in a strange way: first climbed the serpentine almost to the top, and then on the other road went down, almost to the middle, to the parking lot.

The post office was closed, but postcards and stamps were sold in every souvenir, but there were no envelopes anywhere. Sent, according to tradition, home, a San Marino postcard with a stamp (about 2 euros), arrived exactly a month later, on May 10, but without postmarks! Large shopping malls in the mountainous part of the country have not been found. Limited to perfume (5 euros), "Limoncello" (2.50 euros) and a few bottles of wine 0.2 liters (0.99 euros each). On the way back we asked the driver (and the driver was different, although the bus is the same - all 2.5 hours stood in the parking lot) to drop us off at the "Azur".


Stamps are very expensive, all Italian, but little known. We decided not to waste time, but to return to Rimini and take more walks there. Already on the way out of Serravalle, looking at the hangars again, I was enlightened by a brilliantly seditious thought: in San Marino, alcohol and perfumes are not produced, but only packaged and packaged! Apparently, in order to optimize taxation J.

The owners of the hotel - an elderly couple, very refined and intelligent, proud, but polite and friendly (we determined) our room on the third floor (in our opinion), in Venice, the entrance to the building is not considered a floor. As requested, received a quiet room (with windows to the courtyard) large area with a modern bathroom. Having settled down, we go for a walk around the city.

The street where our hotel is located is full of cafes and souvenirs, boutiques start closer to the center. If you go nowhere (although there are many temptations - the side streets and canal embankments are very interesting), after 2.5 km you will reach St. Mark's Square. For example, the opposite bank of Venice, there are no wide streets, the streets are small and narrow, more like courtyards that constantly intersect, so there, sometimes you lose orientation in space, many are not marked on the map, save only signs "Ferrovia". Finally, both sunny and warm.

The city, despite its difficult history, does not evoke any thoughts, at first you just marvel at its originality, then enjoy it, and then just get used to it J. There are almost no trees (except in the park), but many plants on balconies.

Its approach is evidenced by a significant increase in souvenir and jewelry stores per unit area and tourists per unit space. Rialno Bridge is under restoration and 2/3 closed with billboards, mostly advertising. But open to pedestrians. We move to the other shore. There are no wide streets, very few cafes and they are only in the squares. It is already dusk and we are moving back, with the lighting on the inner streets not very much, although the embankments of the canals are lit quite brightly. At Campo Sante Maria Mater Domini we find a small supermarket "Billa", visitors are mostly local. We buy a little.


After wandering in the twilight (Venetians do not like to write street names on signs, only house numbers, and numbering in the city through, on one bank of the Grand Canal only even house numbers, on the other - only odd), still go to the bridge Deglio Scalzi (opposite the station), right next to our hotel

Day 11. The morning greets us with fog.

We planned to take the Vaporetto to Sq. San Marco, walk along the embankment. Schiavone, visit the Cathedral, see the city from the height of the Campanilla and further in the opposite direction, carefully visiting the shops and small shopping malls. But we had to wait a while until the fog more or less dissipated. We get on the pier "Ferrovia" on the river tram of the 1st route (tickets for 7.50 euros, unlimited for day 20). We take seats in the aft open cabin. Morning. We sail on the Grand Canal. We observe the ordinary life of this unusual city.

Cargo boats transport things, furniture, food and beverages (typical ringing of bottles) to hotels and restaurants. Here the garbage barge slowly moves from one entrance to another and in its big tanks contents are unloaded.

Here are taxi boats, richly decorated with ebony lacquered, hired by rich tourists bichtro, but with dignity rushed into the canal (about 10 am, the time of the gondolas has not yet come, and the difference in price is probably significant). But one of the two little-known "crossings for locals" - bridges in the city across the Grand Canal only 3 - and the aborigines still need to move quickly - so there are 2 such crossings, just did not remember the place, all passengers in the boat go standing, the carrier drives the vehicle with a pole. I did not remember the exact place of transportation (photo is available), but it is already between the Rialto Bridge and the City of the Academy.

Here is the sound of a siren - from the provule-canal jumps out, holding his nose high from his own speed, high-speed rubber bright red "speed-boat" - in Venice looks like an ambulance, the set managed to notice two people in red and white vests, a boat at great speed already rushed away.


Here is the order on a modest white-blue boat watching the shelf, as you can see the traffic is decent, as on the usual highways of an ordinary Italian city. Here is the Guggenheim Museum, here is the banner "No mafia Venezia", ​ ​ here is the graffiti on the wall "Forza Ukraina", which remained from 2014, then there were numerous gondola parking, here is the Cathedral of Santa Maria della Salute, here is the palace of film festivals with a characteristic sign the Bienna di Venezia ». Finally, the tram goes out into the open, where you want to shoot with a camera in all directions - on one side of the square. .

San Marco with the Cathedral, the Campanilla and the Doge's Palace, on the other - in a foggy haze, the islands Next we go to the square. We visit the Cathedral, there is a small queue at the entrance. The facade is still part of the restoration, as 2 years ago.

While we were standing in line, I noticed one of the columns - it was stuffed at the bottom, and the defect was carelessly walled up with pieces of tile and cement, and I thought the columns were made of solid marble. Hackneyed, in general, has existed at all times. We go up to the Bell Tower (Campanilla) of the Cathedral, here the entrance is paid - 8 euros, the lift is natural by elevator (although you could walk for free). Despite the fencing net - Venice is in the palm of your hand. The sun is warming brighter, more and more tourists. Gradually we begin to move towards the Rialto Bridge through the Mercerie area, the central street, as such here, no, one short street turns into another.

We see a gondolier overtaking two coupled empty gondolas in the direction of the Santa Chiara canal (apparently there is a parking lot).

There is also a very interesting pharmacy (I do not know, maybe in Italy all these) - in addition to the traditional pharmacy range, this has a large selection of soaps, creams, shampoos and other similar products. We buy little by little, at home we find out that the quality is very decent (all without exception - Italian production), and prices are not so high compared to ours. In one confectionery we enjoy "Kanonchino" - tubes with a lot of cream (3.70 euros), very sweet, I recommend to import only with coffee. After leaving the hotel, we still have more than an hour and a half of free time before the train, directly at the station there are souvenirs, boutiques, even a bookstore. The range is not special, prices (as in many in Venice) are inflated. In the end, they announce the boarding of our train.


Breakfast was included in both. In general, I chose the best location. From the station to the hotel we move on foot, it is good to walk only 400 meters, almost in a straight line, but these suitcases could not stand the suitcase (new! The first trip! ), The pull-down handle treacherously fell apart. I don't know what the problem was - in the overload of things (the weather was not spoiled by stability, so they took into account different temperatures) or in the overload of souvenirs (Chianti, limoncello and Italian jams, no one canceled). The benefit of moving with things from Milan we no longer had, it remained to pull the suitcase to the airport. In general, the accommodation they were looking for was reached in time (when booking the hotel urged to indicate the approximate time of arrival). Surprisingly, the hotel has no reception, the manager was sitting at a small table in the dining room.

. After Piazza XXV Avril Corso Como passes into Corso Garibaldi and stretches all the way to Parco Sempione. The architecture around is inconspicuous, but nice. Typical Milan J. In one of the small squares we notice a multi-storey cafe "Eataly", it would seem nothing special, a play on words, but memorable… Back to the hotel we return the same route.

Day 13. Breakfast at a hotel in Milan is more painful than a kind - full self-service. You take everything in the fridge and on the shelves (and there are mostly desserts, only on the first day there were slices of ham), put the used dishes on a separate tray. There is no washbasin. Sometime in the middle of the day, a maid (Filipino, not English-speaking) appears, tidies up the dining room and doesn't clean or take out the trash.

Today we have Milan on the full program: center, attractions, shopping, parks, and at 17:15 booked tickets for the Last Supper at the Church of Cenacolo Venciano (bought on 13.01.

2016, the day of the opening of sales, tickets for my date sold out very quickly and then did not appear, all bought the world's furniture and designers, who today have the last day of exhibitions). By metro we quickly get to Teatro La Scala (the cost of the trip is 1.50 euros, tickets are sold only in vending machines at the station, I risked paying by card). The peculiarity of the Milan metro - the ticket must be passed through the turnstile not only at the entrance from the station of departure, but also at the exit of the station of arrival. So do not throw away the ticket, otherwise do not leave the subway later. If you add that the sliding shutters of turnstiles are higher than human height, you will understand that the subway in Milan - very serious, like Milan itself. I didn't notice the police on the platforms, but there were CCTV cameras everywhere.


So, we enter the station "Montenapoleone", via Via Monzoni we reach Piazza Scala (here the mega-expensive boutiques begin), where the Theater of the same name is located, very modest and unpretentious in appearance, compared to the Operas of other cities. Scala translated from Italian means "stairs", but there are no stairs in the square, the place is flat. In front of the Theater there are unexpectedly many school groups (did you come for a morning session? Or just for a tour of the theater? ). On the opposite side of the square is a monument to Leonardo da Vinci, among four sculptures, apparently the heroes of his works. Here on the square is the entrance, probably the most famous passage in Italy - the shopping gallery of Victor Emmanuel. You visit the gallery simply as a work of art, because from a practical point of view, the cautious tourist has absolutely nothing to do here - the numbers on the price tags are more like phone numbers than prices.

Another exit from the Gallery - directly to the Duomo Square, where the city's business card is - the Cathedral (Duomo in Italian and means Cathedral), the time is quite early, the queue for the Cathedral is not long, we decide to go. Admission is 2 euros, the box office can be paid by card. The inspection at the entrance is very serious - they are forced to take off their outerwear and open their bags. The Cathedral itself seems sparsely populated due to its impressive size. It seemed that people in it just dissolve. You can take photos without flash. Inside the Cathedral is strict, inconspicuous and ascetic, like all Gothic Churches of the Middle Ages. The photo on the square against the background of the Cathedral is very popular among tourists, it is used by local photographers (oriental appearance), offering tourists to take pictures with the next photo print for 5 minutes on a portable printer, which is installed literally on his knees (price not specified).

For those who can't afford shopping in the Passage, Corso Vittorio Emmanuele II shopping street (with well-known branded stores H&M, Zara, Mango, etc. ) and the parallel Corso de Europa, which is better to go to San Babila metro station, depart from the square. ). By the way, if anyone is interested, Zara is the name of the district in Milan, and Celio - the district in Rome. After walking through the shopping center, we go across the square to the pedestrian via Dante. The goal is Sforza Castle and Sempione Park. On the street. Dante, often restaurants, promoters are obsessively calling, but the prices are appropriate. Another detail - on the street. Dante all the pillars are decorated with flags of different countries, no pattern in the location did not notice, but ours did not find L. At the main entrance to the castle visitors meet a huge multi-level fountain, like a cake, free entrance to the castle. The idyll is broken only by numerous African traders who are obsessively trying to sell some bracelets and chains to visitors.

Then strictly at the specified time (here at 17:15) let in a room with a mural. You can take photos, for some reason there is no video. There is a lot of background information on the stands (in English and Italian). When 15 minutes have passed, the maid shouts in a loud voice "No foto! and gradually takes tourists out the other door. Of course, to the gift shop. It is difficult to describe your impressions of the Masterpiece, you begin to subconsciously analyze the plot itself. Fifteen minutes to understand the work is definitely not enough, but it is worth seeing. Then through the Champions we move to the center again. People continue to relax in the park, equipment is being transported, and a musical event seems to be being prepared. Tourists from Japan attracted attention, who, apparently wanting to remove the park from above, launched a quadcopter (drone) with a video camera.


Many ask - why on the last day of the trip decided to go to Turin, would not it be better to give another day to Milan?

I decided for myself that the most important thing to visit in Milanen is one and a half days, the museums are not really mine, especially in the warm season, except for the Niveglia area with a city canal and boating and steamboat. But this is too irrational, especially after Venice, it is better to take another city, the more remote from the main tourist routes, which is unlikely to visit, and which will not connect with Genoa or the Alpine part of France. Moreover, the region is colorful and original, although for one capital such a conclusion will probably be difficult to draw. But on the other hand, Turin is the first capital of Italy, and in general, a city with a French, and probably not just an accent. In general, let's go.

Thus, the express "Frecciarossa 1000" easily and smoothly carries to the capital of the westernmost region of Italy at a speed of 195-295 km / h.

The border between the settlements of Lombardy and Piedmont can be determined quite easily - in the latter in private homes tiled roofs are very low, sloping, almost flat. Obviously, just don't build attics. The same applies to the few towers. The station "Porta Nova" in Turin is an ancient building of the early XX century and part is under restoration, so the exit to the station square was not found immediately. But in the central lobby of the station was the entrance to the Turin metro (something reminiscent of Paris). But it is difficult to surprise me with the Turin metro - only 1 line, even with fully automatic trains without a driver - has seen not so J. In addition, the metro in Turin does not pass through the historic city center, connecting the station with the suburbs.


We arrange a short rest in Piazza San Carlo - shops, quiet and sparsely populated, French neat and strict buildings, twin churches, pastry shops and restaurants in the arcades, in the square - a few souvenir stalls (the latter - nowhere else in the city). What is certainly pleasing in Turin - a large number of parks and almost complete absence of Arab-African traders, there are very few near Molle-Antonelliana, selling small copies of this building (another greeting from Paris! ) But there are gypsies. They move in groups, they do not ask to guess, but all the same at their sight it is necessary not to lose vigilance. We continue to move in this direction. From afar, between the squares of San Carlo and Castello, a high-rise building with a tower under attracts attention.

old on the roof and with a huge Italian flag on the tower, at random, floors 16-18, I can not say more precisely, we must approach closely, as if growing from the old quarter, clearly not new (mid-twentieth century, and maybe even the 1930s , the emperor of Italy in those years loved to build a monumental and grand), but does not spoil the surrounding picture, it seems just a modern tower, the color goes well with the buildings that collapse. The complex of buildings of the Royal Palace begins in Castello Square. There are also tourists, school groups and animators hanging on a pole. But unraveling this focus on the Internet has long been no secret. We pass to the Royal Gardens. The area of ​ ​ the gardens is impressive, but there is still something to work on in terms of infrastructure (benches, fountains).

This square also houses the Municipal Museum of Ancient Art with two traditional Piedmont round towers with sloping roofs, as well as a monument to the Duke d'Osta dedicated to the events of the First World War (inscription in Italian, more accurate). I notice a newspaper kiosk, where I pack my vests on the way back to the station (tickets for 1.40 euros, valid for one trip up to 90 minutes, must be validated in the vehicle). As it turned out, it was possible not to reinsure, because the ticket machine (in addition to the machine for their validation) was in the bus №61. Finally, go via Po in the direction of the river of the same name. We have lunch in one of the cafes under the arcades with the inscription "Self-service" and a billboard with humane prices. But self-service in Turin is not what you thought.

The young and very nervous waiter said that the cost of a "comprehensive dinner" includes three dishes to choose from (all 3 fit on one large plate): one of three salads, one of three side dishes (pasta, potatoes, rice), one of three types of m 'яса. Imposed by the waiter himself. The cost of such a complex is 7.50 euros. Drinks separately. Coperto 1 euro per person. We agree. The price, size and quality of the dishes suits us. But the service - no L. We decide to take ice cream. Here, the policy of the cafe in general puts in a stupor - a portion of ice cream at the table - 6 euros, if you take away with you in the same waffle or cardboard cup - 2 euros. Chose the second option. Ice cream is delicious. Turin is generally considered the capital of Italian chocolate. But there was no time to visit the "chocolate bar". We take dry rations (tiles in the supermarket).


Already at a pace we continue to move to the river, on public transport does not go. We reach the beautiful Piazza Vittorio Veneto. Here is civilization, bus and tram stops. A feature of Turin - on the central streets of non-chain grocery stores (such as Conad, Lidl, Carrefour, etc. ). We go to the waterfront. On. The river is clearly not a ship, because after 100 meters serious rapids begin. There are many cities across the riv

Translated automatically from Ukrainian. View original
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Флоренция, вид с площади Микеланджело
Ватикан и Рим. Вид с купола Собора Св. Петра
Неаполь
Венеция
Турин
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