Italy: Roman Holiday!
The first time I flew to Rome two years ago. Yes, he flew in with such adventures that sometimes it’s even embarrassing to tell. I already wrote that sometimes "Motherland" "sends" to excellent places, one of which, no doubt, was Italy. What’s more, I’ve been there many times. An experienced reader probably did not notice a single review about this wonderful country in my blogs. And I was right - I did not write them. And not because the inspiration has faded to nothing. The reason is banal - for the entire time of my stay in Italy, I saw practically nothing - I wandered only around industrial enterprises, and in the evening - through taverns.
And in the summer of 2010, I was not going anywhere either - the crisis, after all. But fate decided to make its own adjustments - I was presented with a trip to Italy (the birthday recently celebrated on a grand scale had an effect). Moreover, the donor thought of everything - he made sure that I had an open "Schengen", clarified about the affairs at work, and in general - about the tastes and preferences in traveling. Actually, a week before departure, I was gladly informed about the gift, and left, and I was left to think about how to quickly redo all the “deeds” that so stubbornly prevented me from living.
I coped, and a week later I went to Domodedovo at all times, from where I flew to Rimini on a VIM-Avia flight. The tour operator for the trip was Pak-Group, already known to the reader, whom I happened to encounter during a trip to Mexico two years ago. If I had chosen the tour, I would never have contacted them - the impressions from the previous communication with them turned out to be too strong. But - don't look a gift horse in the mouth - and I flew.
I came across VIM-Avia only once, when I flew to Cyprus five years ago. Then the young structure was created under the leadership of the well-known in aviation circles, now deceased, Viktor Ivanovich Merkulov (the airline was named after the first letters of his name), and made a good impression on passengers. And despite the numerous criticism on the Internet - this time it also did not disappoint - the flight "there", in fact, as well as "back", took off exactly on schedule.
Even the day before, I looked for acquaintances at the airline in order to find a place for myself “warmer” - I don’t like charters because of the large number of inadequate tourists on board. My plane was no exception - from afar it looked like a monkey house - noisy, crowded, children scurry under your feet in search of only they know what... The list goes on. And I didn’t find any acquaintances, however, I found out at the information desk that for 900 re, you can book a better place. The amount seemed acceptable to me, and I was given a boarding pass for the first cabin (where the "business class" is located). In fact, only two people flew in it. For the indicated amount, we received a bonus breakfast, blankets, pillows and an individual stewardess. And since the flight departed early in the morning, I also managed to sleep.
The plane took off one of the last ones that morning - due to heavy rain, the airport was closed for several hours. The pilots were "on the level", maneuvering between blue-black clouds very easily, avoiding turbulence. It's scary to imagine what would happen in the "monkey" if the plane began to "talk".
I got a "classic" tour - in a week you are taken to the maximum number of cities, briefly showing the sights and surroundings. I would even describe everything to you in more detail, but to be honest, “break”. . I am glad that my donor took care and put me up in four-star hotels and in the center of Rome, a little later I will tell you why.
Three and a half hours later, the plane touched the runway at the local airport. I confess that the terminal building did not impress me - it was old and unattractive to an aesthetic look, it was very reminiscent of the Soviet airport project of the 60s and 70s. At the same time, the procedures took a long time - the luggage was expected for forty minutes. And then - a girl with a sign "Lisa" gathered her group at the exit from the terminal. Lisa is our guide, even a "mother-nanny" for some, so to speak. The bus was an old one with uncomfortable seats. The only bright "place" in it is the driver Giuseppe - a charming Italian with a charming smile.
Having met the group, Lisa immediately took us to San Marino, a tiny country that for some reason does not consider itself part of Italy. With us, it would have become part of the Federation long ago with an appointed governor and "bears" on every corner. But there is not - people live in peace and are considered a separate state, at least - on paper.
On the bus, I began to look around the group - to be honest, I was not impressed. The audience was simple, and some "copies" - to put it mildly, "redundant". For myself, I called them "collective farmers". For those who have doubts, I can send a video of their behavior on the bus - the “monkey man” is resting.
San Marino didn't impress me. Restored in the post-war period, the castle town is some kind of fort, that's, in fact, that's all. Restaurants are very expensive. The inscriptions in Russian, which are replete with the whole city, are pleasing: “Fur coats! Cheap" or "Gold! Almost free. " Moreover, the size of this "almost" rather big one - a gram of 585 gold costs 20 euros. Small swindlers and pickpockets trade on the streets - it seems to me - everyone who was not shot for "scam" in the 90s moved to San Marino. Moreover, the schemes remained the same - thimbles, games with cockroaches, they throw money in front of you. Those who avoided this negative influence in the "golden nineties", I can separately "enlighten" about the dangers of the "scam".
After lunch, our bus went to the hotel in an organized manner - regardless of the chosen tour, everyone was accommodated for one night at the Luna Rossi Hotel. If you are ever offered to live in it even for free - my advice to you - refuse. At a room rate of 30 euros per day, it includes morning tea and a sandwich with sausage, a folding bed, a wardrobe with holes, not a single window, a toilet-shower in one nook with an area of half a square meter. And at night - an added bonus - huge black cockroaches jump from the ceiling and tickle you until you wake up and realize what's what. In general, I have not seen anything like this in all my years of travelling. Thank the Lord God, carried
For objective reasons, I could not pass the time in my room, so I decided to take a walk around the city. In general, Rimini - a classic resort town - comes to life only in summer, stretched along the coast. In the center there is a train station and a bus station, in fact, all bus routes lead here. Traveling by taxi is expensive - the minimum trip is 20-25 euros, it's easier by bus. The fourth route runs from one end of the city, and the eleventh from the other. Tickets are sold at any kiosk with newspapers or cigarettes. You can ride on a validated coupon for 2 hours. Beware of fines - 50 euros for ticketless travel.
During the evening I mastered two restaurants - the sea food "Bungalow", which is on the longest pier, and "Dee Garden" - a classic Italian restaurant not far from the embankment. I liked the second one more - the choice of meat, pizza, salads is simply impressive. I strongly recommend white homemade wine to everyone.
At night, I looked into a couple of shops - I didn’t see anything good there. I recommend shopaholics to be patient until Rome or Milan, but if it’s completely unbearable, the Befane shopping center is what you need
The night in the room with cockroaches passed quickly - the alcohol taken the day before affected. And in the morning, a bottle of water bought in the evening turned out to be life-saving. I did not go to breakfast - I decided not to indulge myself with tea from a bag and a sandwich with sausage.
Going out early on the street, I saw an entertaining picture - the "collective farmers" had a fight over seats on the bus. In general, I would even pay extra to ride on another bus, not to mention choosing a seat. Taking advantage of the “mess”, I crawled between the breasts of one aunt, then along the suitcase of the uncle, with whom she was so actively arguing, I got on the bus and fell down the empty seat I didn’t like. One boy of dubious orientation, of course, wanted to tell me that this was his place, however, then he changed his mind. No, I didn’t say a word to him, I just took a deep breath, and then exhaled on him everything that had accumulated in me during the night. "Understood" - he said and left to master the back of the bus.
We were heading to Venice. The three-hour road passed quickly, we were even brought up once to the toilet or to drink tea - who needs what, as you understand. In Venice, we put the bus in the parking lot, after which, for a modest 10 euros per person, we put everyone in small boats and took them through the central canal to the city. The program says that the boat is included in the price, but on the spot it turned out that it was not included. Lisa offered to get to the place on her own, but, as you yourself understand, this is impossible.
The city is undeniably beautiful. I would even stay there for a couple of days - I would take a walk, drink local wine. Beautiful, very beautiful. There are no cars, traffic jams, idiots - motorcyclists, Moscow smog and much more. And there is a cool breeze and a great mood.
The boat arrived at the central embankment of the city. Lisa immediately took us to the Venetian glass workshop. Five minutes we were shown how the products are made - after that, half an hour was allocated for purchases. At the end of the day, I found Lisa in this store, she did not hesitate to count the money right on the counter. “Another hauler, ” I thought at that moment.
After the workshop, those who wished could ride the gondola. Lisa collected 22 euros per person for these purposes while still on the bus. Four people were put on the boat. I note that an hour gondola ride costs 40 euros. As you understand, they again shod a simple Soviet tourist.
Do not deny yourself the pleasure of eating meat in Venetian style. The house wine is also top notch. True, prices bite on everything - both food and clothing. Many boutiques attract tourists, but prices are twice as high as in Rome or Milan.
At three o'clock in the afternoon the whole group gathered in the central square. We managed to feed the pigeons. By the way, in the two years that a law was introduced prohibiting feeding pigeons in Venice, their number was halved. Headphones were handed out to all tourists, after which the local guide Marcella took us in an organized manner to St. Mark's Cathedral, and later to the Doge's Palace. After the tour, be sure to sit in the Cafe Florian - the most famous and most expensive cafe in Venice. The list of their visitors will not fit in a thick book. I tasted the local beer, Birra Venezia. To sum up the trip to Venice - "we looked quickly and little. "
The way back was faster - we returned along the Grande Canal through the local port. And then - back on the bus, and moving to the city of Lido di Jesolo, which is 40 km from Venice.
Hotel "Colombo", located on the second line from the sea, seemed to me a paradise after a night spent in the "cockroach". The room had a good TV, a bath with a shower, air conditioning, a large bed, and even a mini-bar. Upon arrival at the hotel, our "collective farmers" ran to the dining room to eat their dinners. For example, I don’t understand people who go to get acquainted with the country and eat not in local cafes and restaurants, tasting the cuisine, but in canteens organized by tour operators.
I had dinner at the local restaurant "Don", and after that I took a walk around this nice and quiet town. Frankly, I think Lido di Jesolo is an excellent place for a beach holiday in Italy, Rimini is not good for him.
The morning of May 28 came early - at six thirty I was awakened by a call from the reception. Collecting things, breakfast (by the way, a normal breakfast) - and we are back on the bus. "Collective farmers" again fought over places, and the number of arguing tourists doubled. I didn't get a good seat, because I arrived late from breakfast and drove over the bus engine for the entire route. It's strange how the rocking hasn't vomited yet. The lesson I learned that day for the rest of my life is that the group bus tour is tough. I didn’t argue and fight with the “collective farmers” for places, I just gave Giuseppe 20 euros and he booked great places for me throughout the trip.
On the way to the cafe, a boy of dubious orientation again pestered me, this time with a friend. They didn't like the fact that the girl behind the counter gave me coffee before they did and they waited 15 seconds longer. I got the feeling that no one had plucked their hair at the fifth point for a long time. I already took out my “tweezers”, but they suddenly calmed down sharply - the mother of one of them came.
Landscapes of provincial Italy flickered outside the window, and Lisa periodically told something into the microphone. We were on our way to Florence. Five hours of travel, and I stood on the threshold of the excellent Ambassadori Hotel, which, by the way, was the best of my entire “Italian” trip. Wide and spacious rooms, full breakfasts, free fruits and a mini-bar - these are just a small percentage of what warmed my soul that day . Many who saved lived in a hotel on the outskirts of the city. Not only was the hotel bad, but most of all, its transport inaccessibility was annoying - only taxi drivers traveled to it for 40 euros. Those who lived in this hotel had the opportunity to at least check in, while those who saved money “dragged around” with bags and suitcases all day.
After checking in, Liza led the whole group on foot to the central square, where the local guide Jordanka was already waiting for us. This woman of about sixty with a non-trivial sense of humor, fully spoke seven languages. And she learned Russian in Germany in her spare time while studying German there4; In general, not a head, but a house of councils. I have never met such guides - she is really the best guide in Florence. She immediately warned us about scammers, told us where there are good shops and restaurants in the city, and during the tour she strongly deviated from the standard program, for which she has a special “respect”.
According to Jordanka, in the evening I looked at the restaurant "Tira Baralla", which is on Dela Skala Street, 28. The cuisine is simply amazing, I recommend it. Especially the Florentine meat. The reader has probably noticed that in every city Italians cook meat "domestic style" (in the local style). The most interesting thing is that it really differs both in taste and in the method of preparation.
The next morning I ate too much - breakfast was such that it was impossible not to eat it. Liza took part of the group (if you wish, for an additional fee) to Siena, which is 60 km from Florence. In Siena, a medieval city, Sarah, a young local guide, was waiting for us. Siena, unlike San Marino, is a historical city, everything that is presented in it is natural. The second is the Chianti wine, since the province of Tuscany is the main producer of this wine. As a connoisseur, I note that what we sell in Russia is not Chianti, but at best, Arbat Canteen. The third is caste, or contrads, as the locals say. There are 17 of them in the city, which are named after animals or insects. For example, Sara refers to the contrade of rams. And the leader of the clan "snails" dissects on the Russian "Niva" 2002 release. I saw this car myself - very funny. Tourists flock here in the summer for the world-famous Paleo competition, when ten out of seventeen contradas on horseback compete for a prize in the city's central square, Piazza Del Campo.
Together with Sarah, we walked around the city, looked at the Siena Cathedral and the Meria de Servi Basilica. Siena is a small and pleasant town, however, it is very easy to get lost in it. After the tour, a bottle of Chianti warmed the soul of a Soviet tourist right on Piazza Del Campo - the best wine is served at the Il Palio bar.
After lunch, Lisa and I returned to Florence, where the Jordanian woman was already waiting for us. She was again our guide to the Uffizi Gallery and the Palace of Drinking. Having learned about Sarah, she grumbled for a long time that “they say, they recruited inexperienced young people here, they don’t know anything, but they go around and dupes. ” This is a quote, as you understand; Repeating once again that she was the best guide in town, she led us to the gallery without queuing. “Connections, ” she said proudly, and went along a separate corridor with us. She tells a very interesting story - even in art galleries, where I fall asleep before the tour starts, I listened with trepidation and attention - the story was so fascinating.
And in the evening - a walk around the city. Be sure to buy gold on the Ponte Vecchio bridge, go for a walk to the Medici Palace with a garden. In general, do not be lazy, buy a guidebook. For example, he helped me a lot in Florence.
The thirtieth of May was the fourth day of the journey. Lisa woke us up even earlier - at five in the morning. We had a six-hour drive to Rome. The "collective farmers" again fought for seats on the bus, but I calmly settled down in the place booked by Giuseppe. I was very pleased with the mini-excursion to the winery about an hour's drive from Florence - amazing wine costs a penny. I could not resist and bought myself this drink for 300 euros. Otherwise, the trip went smoothly - cities flashed by, landscapes changed, and Lisa something melancholy babbled into the microphone.
In Rome, we again changed the hotel - the selected hotel according to the program was full. Like many years ago, I lived north of the central station. And if earlier I lived in the Wind Rose Hotel, which was of average quality, this time I lived on the next street in the Note Hotel. Both the first and the second clearly lacked a good repair. The date of manufacture was stamped on the key to my room - July 1983. So the question is - is it really impossible to collect money and renovate the hotel in 27 years?
There are three problems in the Italian capital - roads - they are sorely lacking, good hotels and, most importantly, good restaurants. During my business trips, I tried dishes from different restaurants - they were all so-so. At the same time, for example, in Rimini, or in Florence, the quality and taste of dishes are much higher. It is not clear how to explain this phenomenon, but it is very difficult to find a good cafe or restaurant in Rome. Opposite Note, as well as opposite Wind Rose, there are two bars with enticing inscriptions. Do not go there, dear readers - in three years things have only gotten worse.
But we digress. Upon arrival at the hotel, we only managed to pack our bags, and the local guide Paolo was already waiting for us. This imposing man immediately attracted the attention of the female part of our group. Paolo was giving a tour of the city. You can talk about Rome for a long time - the sights alone are worth it - the Roman and imperial forums, the Colosseum, the Pantheon, St. Peter's Basilica, the Trevi Fountain and much more. And Via Nazional, which departs from Vittoriano (Venetian Square) to the west, is full of shops and fairs. It is impossible to leave without shopping, the prices are quite reasonable. For example, I was "dragged" until late at night.
We met another early morning on the bus - Lisa's partner Marina was taking us on an excursion to Naples and Pompeii. I visited the first one a few years ago on a business trip, and the second city is the only attraction that I visited during all my working trips to Italy. Naples is considered a crime city. For example, in the port area, blacks are scurrying around who sell you drugs. Interestingly, the police are standing nearby, but doing nothing to stop such activities. The local tram is very beautiful, however, in two thousand and ten all lines were closed for a comprehensive reconstruction. I will not talk about Pompeii and Vesuvius, I believe that everyone knows a short blitz version of the history of this city since school. Local guide Asya is another nice guide on this route. It's funny, she even talked about an article in one publication, where I actually publish. This article mentioned her excursions, which was funny in itself. I am also ready to celebrate her work at the highest level. But with lunch, included in the cost of the tour, as always, they “cheapened” - it is of poor quality, and what was served to us was impossible to eat.
The group stopped in Naples on the way back. The city greeted us with heavy rain and cold wind. Those who went on a sightseeing tour of the city regretted it greatly - they were cold and soaked from head to toe. I passed the time in a cafe on the waterfront.
And again three hours on the bus - and here it is - Rome! With the restaurant again pierced - the food was tasteless.
The penultimate day of the tour began with the packing of the suitcases. At seven in the morning, Paolo came for us, who brought us to the Vatican for a sightseeing tour. In this country in the city you can walk for hours. The guide told us in sufficient detail about the main attractions of the local museum, and the tour ended on the square in front of the Vatican Cathedral. Thirty minutes of free time, and Lisa was already "driving" the lagging behind into the bus. Six hours on the road - that was the price of a trip to Rimini.
Paolo collected the earphones given to us back in Venice, after which he left. As soon as Rome disappeared over the edge of the horizon, the tourists got bored. Lisa, tired of a week of stories about Italy, gave us a DVD with the film "Roman Holiday" with Audrey Hepburn in the title role. It was great to review it again, I finally got into Italy and the holidays in this country.
The fields sown with crops were gradually replaced by hills and mountains. We drove up to the pass, where Lisa decided to make a stop in the small town of Asisi. The only attraction of this city is a temple built by a certain hermit monk. Why it was necessary to stop in the city for two hours is not clear, given that by the time we arrived in the city (about 15.00 local time), all cafes and restaurants had already closed. Many, after wandering around the temple for half an hour, gathered at the bus and watched local workers picking something in the asphalt in the hot sun.
In the evening, in Rimini, we were settled in the Riviera Maare Hotel, a 3-star mid-level hotel. “Pleased” (in quotation marks) that the elevator did not work, and everyone dragged heavy suitcases on their own (porter services are not provided at the hotel either). "Collective farmers" again fought over who would occupy the rooms on the first floor. They were surprised to learn that the reserve of rooms had been made in advance, and dragged on foot to their third floor.
I decided to end my trip at siafuud, a restaurant not far from the hotel with the simple name "Mare" (Italian - "sea"). And in the morning - at five o'clock in the morning - a bus to the airport, and a flight to Moscow. Lisa very quickly said goodbye to us on the bus, after which she ran to the arrivals hall to meet another group of vacationers. And we, a group of Soviet tourists, flew to Domodedovo, briefly said goodbye to each other and parted in all directions.
Usually in my stories I only lead the reader to conclusions, but I myself do not draw any conclusions. Now I will make an exception, if only because I was not the one who was engaged in the selection of the tour. Firstly, a lot depends on the group, I spent many of my trips in excellent companies of tourists like me. In Italy, I encountered either very closed people, or with "redundant" collective farmers. Secondly, you won’t see anything “galloping through Europe” - describing my trip in two months, I can hardly remember the details. Thirdly, it is tiring to constantly travel - and this is said by a person with rich travel experience. And the most important thing is the overall impression of the trip. And the question is rather not in the level of the hotel and the place of rest, the question is in the company of those people with whom you rest. But once or twice it is worth going on such a trip.
And if we really idealize it, I had an excellent “Roman Holiday”. Italy is one of my favorite countries. I will definitely go there again and again.