Venice fascinated me, drove me crazy ...

25 November 2012 Travel time: with 24 September 2012 on 26 September 2012
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Venice is truly endless. Visiting it once again, you never cease to notice how much you have already seen and how much is still left. For an unenlightened onlooker lit up in the Doge's Palace and St. Mark's Cathedral, it may seem that that's all, we saw Venice, it's time to go somewhere else. But you can “see” Venice for at least 2 weeks, and even then, not everyone succeeds. And don't count on the locals. Each of them knows his part of the city and his favorite places. To recreate the entire prototype of the Venetian heritage, it will be necessary, at least, to interview several dozen natives in order to get closer to filling the entire list of churches, museums, exhibitions and architectural monuments open to the public.

But to see all of Venice is not an easy task and not a cheap one. Each collection requires funds, and each church requires investments for restoration.


This is not the Louvre for you, where for 11 euros you can spend the night for 2 days and then remember that you forgot to look into the hall of Italian painters.

I recommend doing the main program directly using the Museum Pass, otherwise you will have to slowly get poorer. With an average price of 8 euros for each object, you will spend much more. Even such nondescript objects as Casa di Carlo Goldoni and Museo di Palazzo Mocenigo require five from the nose, although the inspection there is for 15 minutes.

Having run around the entire mandatory program in 2 visits, they still remained untouched by Gallerie dell Accademia, Museo Fortuny and Collezione Peggy Guggenheim, and these are objects with a big name and the same entry prices. And we do not take into account the churches, of which there are 2 at each step and each is open for a paid review. Each of them is not only a place of worship, but also a treasure trove of important works of art.

But there is also a way to save money. Buy a Chorus pass for 10 euros (chorusvenezia. org) and start your religious journey through the 16 churches available on the list without knocking or embarrassment.

Here, however, they will not let you into the magnificent San Rocco without 8 euros. They will look at your travel card like a candy wrapper. What to do, Tintoretto all the same.

But you can also organize a tour of the budget side of the Venetian lagoon.

For fans (and there are some, I saw) you can ride in the direction of Murano and get to the island of the graves of San Michele, the entrance to the cemetery of which is completely free. The cemetery was organized after the decree of Napoleon Bonaparte and is now included in the European complex of the most important cemeteries. Works from 7.30 to 16.30. In summer, an hour and a half longer.


If, leaving Piazza San Marco on the left, walk east along the promenade, you can get to the Museo Storico Navale. Ship models from the times of the Venetian Republic and the Italian modern fleet, a collection of uniforms, ship equipment. On the Internet, reviews do not describe much enthusiasm, but for 1.5 euros, I think you can check it yourself. Operates approximately from 9 a. m. to 1 p. m.

If, after the museum, you continue your journey along the coastal edge, then you will find yourself on the island of St. Helena. This is the most extreme frontier of the Venetian island and the closest piece of land to the island of Lido. There is a park and, probably, the only playground. The islet is unusually green for Venice and even managed to accommodate 2 football fields.

Let's not forget about the island of Lido itself, where, firstly, in the warm season, you can sunbathe and rub your back against the warm sand on an impressive beach embankment, and secondly, visit the only planetarium in Venice (astrovenezia. net). What kind of animal, I can’t tell, because for the second time we don’t have time to hit the road with a car race and run into a star cinema hall. It also functions without money. It is listed as the third largest in all of Italy.

Returning to Venice itself, you can visit 2 more free objects that can complement your impression of the city. The first will be the Museo dela Musica (interpretiveneziani. com). It is located near Piazza San Stefano, on the opposite bank of the Accademia Gallery. Works from 9.30 to 19.00. The museum is located in the church of San Maurizio and exhibits about 100 non-standard musical instruments and some works from the Venetian Baroque period. Unfortunately, we only know about the museum by hearsay. But information about him is already crammed into the diary for next year.

And the second free visit is the Telecom Italia Future Center (futurecentre. telecomitalia. it). We weren't there either. The center is dedicated to the development of telecommunication technologies and the progress of the telephone business over the past 100 years. The complex also includes a church with some important works of art. It is also known about him that he works from 10 to 18 and huddles in San Salvador Square.


Basilica dei Frari, Museo Fortuny, Palazzo Grimani, Museo dela Fisica, Palazzo Grassi, Sinagogues du Ghetto, and if I take out my dusty reference book that I got in the hotel, then I can put pressure on you with authority for a long time juggling big names like brands cars.

And, of course, let's not forget that Venice is rich not only in frozen art, but in living art, such as music, opera and theater. Performances are held in theaters, churches and theological seminaries. Ticket prices vary from 10 to 60 euros, but there are also free performances (mostly choirs). And here you can not do without a fresh filing of local newspapers or announcements, so the time and date of performances are subject to fluctuations.

Get in the habit of consulting hellovenezia's virtual guide for the latest information. com. There you can always read about high-profile events during your stay.

Walking the streets in the evening, as always in a frivolous direction, we accidentally turned into a private cinema.

At least that was the impression, since the entrance was small, and a young man was sitting at the entrance, hiding behind a cash register and 2 posters. Asked about ticket prices, he explained that the films are for members only. Tobish, you pay a monthly fee and you have a travel pass. And then, probably, sms send you a poster for the next week. In general, the club of moviegoers.

Well, those whose legs are still not unfastened from fatigue by the evening, they can light up at the Hard Rock Cafe or Venice Jazz Club, after which, after tasting several varieties of grape hops and gaining courage, they will go to the casino, where they are invited from all billboards and travel tickets. All for chips!

For children and their parents, I highly recommend visiting the Disney store. It is located somewhere along the way from the Rialto Bridge to Piazza San Marco. After walking 5 minutes after the bridge, ask any local. It should be somewhere nearby (only if you didn't go in the opposite direction: )).

The prices there are very reasonable, and the choice can be compared with the original store in the Disney park (but not the quantity! ).


There we regularly buy a doll for our daughter and some other little thing at a discount, which are sometimes impressive together. A natural Disney doll for 12 euros seduces not only children, but also their parents.

Completing an endless journey through the Venetian lagoon. I can only notice one thing. Venice is huge and versatile and looks different for everyone. For each person with his own set of preferences and patterns, Venice will reveal one or another side of its many-sided reality, which in general will remain hidden under the carnival mask.

An alienated attitude, tinted with the brilliance of a standard set of objects for the impressions of a visiting guest, will keep you at a distance, not allowing you to be saturated with the smell of sea air, mixed with centuries of history and traditions in art, resistant as reinforced concrete.

But this is the task of a real traveler, to find his home everywhere, without having an actual registration address.

Good luck with your exploration and enjoyment!

Translated automatically from Russian. View original
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