Porto, I'll be back! Promise!

19 June 2016 • Travel time: with 13 May 2016 on 16 May 2016

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When I was surfing the Internet in search of information about Porto, I came across a review by ILovePanda. "Porto is a DUDE! He is in shabby jeans, he smokes, he drinks, he does not shave, he does not look into the eyes of aunts, but in the neckline, but he is not marginal, and he drinks nothing horrible, he has something to talk about, he is condescending, he looks a little irresponsible. With such a pleasure to have dinner, drink, chat, sleep and leave in memory an event that you always remember with a smile... and you don’t mind repeating the meeting, dinner, conversation and everything else. Wow, I thought! Here is the comparison! This is how you feel about the city! And what kind of city is it that evokes such associations? To say that everything squirmed with me from the desire to form a personal opinion about Porto is to say nothing! I was going there for so long, and after reading such an essay, I immediately decided - I’m going urgently! The rest is a matter of technique! I bought tickets, booked a hotel and now I'm in Porto!

Atlantic!

Arrived late, at 11 pm. I took a taxi from the airport in 15 minutes. Including nightly rate 23 €. You could also take the subway, I still had time. But she was careful. I'm alone, and what a criminogenic situation there is not in the know! Turns out I was worried for nothing! Quiet, peaceful, crowded. young people, quite peacefully disposed, walk until late at night. You can safely take the metro, even if you arrive at night. The metro station is nearby, 5 minutes on foot, with a suitcase a maximum of 7! Check into a hotel and sleep! He has been waiting for me since morning! Porto - DUDE!! !

The first acquaintance turned out to be harsh! The next morning did not bode well! From early morning, a fine, nasty rain charged, and even with a cold, piercing to the bone, wind! It feels like +14C, no more (mid-May, damn it)! The most for exploring the southern sea city! Well, nothing, I still take a tour in a double car, usually in red, for the initial acquaintance. Red double-decker City Sightseeing buses helped me more than once in many cities in Europe and beyond. I like everything about them: the Hop on - Hop Off system, interesting educational texts in Russian, and routes. It was like that everywhere, but for some reason it was in Porto that there was no Russian in the headphones. Of course, I can also speak English. or him. lang. listen, but in Russian it is still more pleasant at times! After typing a flyer at the hotel reception, I discovered two more competing companies: Yellow Bus and Blue Bus. And only the yellows had Russian. I rode with yellow ones somewhere, once once, I don’t remember where, and I don’t remember my impressions either, so I naively decided: I’ll wait at the bus stop, which bus will arrive first, and I’ll travel on that one. And it is necessary: the first came yellow! Well, I guess it's fate! And besides, they are the only ones who have tex in Russian, which, you see, is also nice! How wrong I was! Dear tourists, if you ever find yourself in Porto, do not waste your time and money (13 €) on this most boring excursion! Disgracefully empty and boring texts, two or three sentences will say and turn on the fado. I have nothing against fado, I even in Lisbon specifically went to dinner in a restaurant with fado. I was going to Porto one evening to join this original tragic-lyrical work. If not for Yellow Bus! Having traveled for 1.5 hours to the mournful sounds, I decided that I had enough fado! The body is fed up! I also didn't want to get off the bus. The weather was not conducive to hiking! And what I saw through the window did not please the eye. Narrow streets, shabby houses, everything is somehow gray and miserable. And I yearned for Lisbon! How I missed wide avenues, pompous buildings, triumphal arches and other paraphernalia of imperial cities! That's it, I think, tomorrow I'm going to Braga! My love with Porto did not work out, oh, it did not work out! I didn't like this guy! Well, or I him!

Old fort on the ocean

Everyone who purchases a Yellow Bus tour is entitled to a free visit to the wine cellars and tasting of port wine. Those who have a two-day ticket - to Cockburn cellars, who have a one-day ticket - to Porto Cruz. The organization of Yellow Bus is so bad that they can't even explain properly. In the headphones they only said: “If you want to visit the wine cellar, you get off at this stop! ". I went out. Stumbled upon Cockburn cellars by accident, for those with a 2-day ticket. Thank God I bought a ticket for just one day! I didn't even make it that day! There was no desire to go on the second branch! Oh, what a waste of time! So, something I digress, back to our cellars. I froze in this yellow bus, like a bald sphinx cat! It's time, I think, to refresh myself with a porter! At the entrance she said that I was from the yellow bus. She showed me the ticket. But since, besides me, 10 more people came from our bus, all Portuguese, there was a hubbub, no one really considered my ticket. They only said if I want a tour in English. lang. - you need to wait until the group is formed, and if you don’t want to wait, you can join the Portuguese. Just like that, they are not allowed into the cellars, only accompanied by a guide. I didn’t want to wait, I heard about the production of port wine in Lisbon, I think it’s okay, I’ll go and see, and joined the Portuguese group. I really liked Cockburn cellars! Port wine matures in huge barrels, in cellars under natural conditions. The temperature is stable all year round: about + 14C, constant humidity is maintained with the help of fountains, the evaporation of which provides the necessary microclimate. In the wine cellars of Vila Nova de Gaia, the drink is only kept in barrels and bottled. The first winter after harvesting, young wine sleeps quietly in barrels. It is left in the very area where the grapes were grown. And only in spring the wine goes to Vila Nova de Gaia. Previously, wine was transported to Porto along the river in rabel boats. Now everything is done in a modern way, using tank trucks. And the barrel-loaded rabelos that sway on the water near the Vila Nova de Gaia embankment are just a bait for tourists. After the tour - tasting. They brought 2 glasses for each: Ruby and 10-year-old Tawny. Yummy! With each sip of drunk port, my soul warmed up and my mood improved. And at the exit I was asked to show the ticket. And it turned out that I had wandered into the wrong place by accident. For one-day tourists - to the neighboring institution Porto Cruz. They scolded, and let them go in peace!

Cockburn`s cellar

Cockburn`s cellars

I went out and a cunning plan ripened in my soul! I have a free tasting ticket! As the saying goes: “She loves to drink... This should be used! » I didn't like Porto Cruz at all. A modern building, on the ground floor there is an indistinct exposition, on the second floor there is a mini-museum, on the third floor there is a cinema that broadcasts a film about the production of port wine, and on the fourth floor there is a Terrace Lounge 360º bar. And this is the most interesting! Because it is located on an open terrace that opens up a 360 ° view. You stand, admiring the views of the Douro River, and the funicular cabins float above you. You sip your free port wine and understand: life is getting better! So the sun came out, at first timidly, and then more and more confidently! And suddenly, as if by magic, the gray and nondescript city began to play, lit up, I would even say: smiled at me! The mood was rapidly improving, I went to roam around the city and gasped and groaned at every step! It turns out that all the beauties of the city are hidden in the narrow streets, through which double cars cannot squeeze through. Here and there, luxurious and more modest facades with azulejos, solid cathedrals, modest-looking churches, hiding tons of gold leaf inside! Guys, Porto needs to be explored on foot! And only so! Otherwise, you will not see half of the beauty! Yes, there are half! You won't be able to see anything at all! How I regretted that I wasted so much time on this stupid bus tour!

Porto Cruz House

View from Terrace Lounge 360º

It's getting dark, it's time to refresh yourself! I went to Reibera for supper. The Ribeira quarter is the heart of the Old City of Porto. It stretches along the Douro River and is included in the UNESCO cultural heritage list. Here is what I read on the Internet: “Ribeira is distinguished by an abundance of small fishing houses piled on top of each other and forming a kind of wall rising up the hill. In the foundations of many of them, stones dating from the Roman era still remain, while the oldest and dilapidated houses are located at the very bottom, near the Dora embankment. A third of the buildings are in a dilapidated state and are no longer used as residential premises. Foreign tourists are not recommended to walk around the quarter at night, since the activity of criminal elements is most widespread here. " I do not know! Houses without windows are dilapidated, of course, there are. But to half - no. In many houses, brand new double-glazed windows with an “antique” layout flaunt. Yes, and at night I staggered there in utter solitude! I did not meet any of the criminal elements, except for shabby cats and fat seagulls. So the rumors are greatly exaggerated! There are many restaurants along the Douro River. All prices are about the same. The average bill for appetizers, main course, wine, dessert and coffee is about 30-35 €. In the city you can eat twice as cheap. But, you must admit, it’s damn nice to dine overlooking the river and the magnificent Luis I Bridge. I’m ready to pay extra for the atmosphere! That's why he's on vacation! In addition, musicians play in front of the restaurants, and in the best restaurants there are their own musicians. Dinner with live music, what could be nicer?

Ribeira

Ribeira embankment

Ribeira Embankment, Luis I Bridge

Ribeira at night

I didn't meet anyone in Ribeira except seagulls!

Luis I Bridge

View of the Douro River from Luis I Bridge

Luis I Bridge

The next morning, early in the morning, I went to explore the city. This time on foot. I didn't see everything I had planned, but still a lot.

Capela das Almas, translated means "chapel of souls". The building of the chapel was built in the 18th century, but its walls were fully decorated with azulejos only in 1929. The facade of the temple is covered with 1001 tiles. Huge tiled panels show scenes from the life of St. Francis of Assisi and St. Catherine. The chapel itself is dedicated to these saints.

Capela das Almas

The most important symbol of the city of Porto is the Clerigos Church (port. Igreja dos Clé rigos). Rather, its bell tower is Torre dos Clerigos (port. Torre dos Clé rigos), which is the highest church tower in Portugal and is visible from anywhere in the city. It has been a landmark for ships entering the harbor for many years. The main facade is decorated in the Baroque style with characteristic garland reliefs and has a pediment. The tall bell tower, on the west side behind the church, was built between 1754 and 1763. It is also decorated in the Baroque style and is decorated with statues of saints, although its appearance resembles Tuscan bell towers. The height of the bell tower is 76 meters. On the ground floor there is a door topped with an image of St. Paul. The thickness of the granite walls of the first floor reaches two meters. On the sixth floor, where an observation deck is equipped, 225 steps lead along a narrow spiral staircase. Of course, I couldn't help but visit it! And it was one of the strongest disappointments in Porto! After, Yellow Bus, of course! Climbing the tower costs 3 €. I was there at 10 in the morning and it was already overcrowded! In addition, at the box office they did not want to give change from 100 €. Well, if there are no other banknotes? I had to go to the souvenir shop near the tower. There was nothing there! And everything is absolutely useless! I had to buy a porcelain sardine with an azulejo ornament for 5.50 €. I didn’t need it at all, but the desire to climb the tower exceeded all the “against”! But in vain! As Paulo Coelho said: “Listen to the signs of fate! » If everything is against you climbing the tower, maybe you don’t need to go there? As for me - definitely not necessary! When I got to the tower, there were already decent people there. The spiral staircase is narrow. In order for the next one to rise, one must wait long and painfully for the previous ones to descend. Well, okay, if the views were valid, you can be patient! Nothing like this! The views are so-so. To say I was disappointed is an understatement! I liked the view of the tower much more than the view from it!

Torre dos Clé rigos

View from the Kliregush Tower

View from the Kliregush tower

Torre dos Clé rigos

Clé rigos Church (port. Igreja dos Clé rigos)

If you go from the Clerigos tower to the two churches Igreja a nossa Senhora do Carmo and Igreja Dos Carmelitas, connected into a single whole, then you cross the small square Cordoaria Garden. At first I was there at night. I really liked the strange trees. I don’t know what kind of trees, but outwardly they are very similar to plane trees. Anyway, trunks and leaves. The only difference is that their trunks are very thick, but in the upper part they narrow sharply - approximately like the neck of a bottle. Many of the same type of sculptural compositions "Thirteen laughing at each other" are installed throughout the garden. They represent the tribune of the auditorium, where several cheerful men are sitting. They all laugh out loud, at the same time, one always falls down from the stands. The author is Juan Munoz. What he meant by that, I personally do not understand. But the sculptures are very positive and believable! I really wanted to visit this park during the day, and I did not fail to do it! Enjoyed the park day and night!

Cordoaria Garden

Cordoaria Garden, "Thirteen Laughing at Each Other"

Twin churches Igreja a nossa Senhora do Carmo and Igreja Dos Carmelitas, connected into a single whole by a narrow house, 1 m wide and with one window. This is due to the fact that in the 18th century it was not allowed to have a common wall for two different churches. And people lived in this narrow house until 1980!

Twin churches Igreja a nossa Senhora do Carmo and Igreja Dos Carmelitas

The Carmelite Church of Igreja Dos Carmelitas used to be part of a Carmelite monastery and is located near the church do Carmo, built a little later. The faç ade is adorned with a single belfry, and in the niches in the center are the statues of Nossa Señ ora do Carmo (Holy Mother of God, patroness of the Carmelites), San José (Saint Joseph) and Santa Teresa de Jesus (Saint Teresa of Jesus). Inside, the church is richly decorated, with gold trim attracting attention. The organ is located on the second floor.

Igreja Dos Carmelitas

Carlos Alberto Square

Igreja Dos Carmelitas

The Church of Carmo or the Church of the Venerable Order of the Third Nossa Senhora do Carmo is a baroque/rococo church built in the second half of the 18th century, between 1756 and 1768, by architect José Figueiredo Seixas. The richly decorated sandstone faç ade has a rectangular portal, flanked by two religious sculptures of the prophets Elijah and Elisha, made in Italy, near a large pediment and at the top of the sculpture of the four Evangelists, in the Italian Baroque style, created by the sculptor Nicolau Nasoni. But the main thing is the side facade, covered with a large azulejo, depicting scenes of the founding of the Carmelite Order on Mount Carmel in Israel. Inside, Carmo Church stands out with its superb carved golden chapel.

Igreja a nossa Senhora do Carmo

Literally 100 meters from the twin churches, on Rua das Carmelitas 144, there is one of the main attractions of the city of Porto - the Livraria Lello bookstore. And that was another one of my disappointments in Porto! That is, the store itself is probably beautiful. But I got there during the reconstruction, when the beautiful facade was covered with a poster and everything inside was filled with scaffolding! And what is most unpleasant, there was one of the proven methods of honestly taking money from the population, or rather from tourists. To get inside, you need to buy a ticket for 3 €, standing in a long queue. Personally, I stood for 20 minutes. And what did I end up seeing? Nothing! All the most valuable was hidden from view! I don't think this is fair! Be warned that the building is undergoing renovations! In general, if anyone gathers in Porto in the near future and decides to visit this world's best bookstore, check before you buy a ticket, is the renovation completed? And is it worth wasting your precious time to end up seeing scaffolding?

The queue at the Livraria Lello bookstore. The beautiful facade, unfortunately, is covered by a poster (((

Livraria Lello. Ceiling fragment

Livraria Lello

After my disappointment, I decided to sweeten the pill at the equally famous Café Majestic. Majestic is a famous cafe in Porto, located in a historic building built in 1921. The interior features carved ceilings, wooden furniture, and sculptures. Despite the historical status of the cafe, there is a full restaurant menu, and, of course, an amazing assortment of coffee and desserts. It is said that it was in this cafe that JK Rowling began writing her famous Harry Potter saga. I really liked the cafe! To get there, you also need to stand in line. But I somehow got through, invited by the maitre d''s magical wave of the hand. The comrade went out into the street, pointed his finger at me and said: “Come in! ". I ordered Bombom coffee (multi-layered, in a glass), pasta and ginja (Ginja is a Portuguese liqueur made from cherries infused with aguardent (unaged wine spirit) or brandy with added sugar. Quite often, whole cherry berries are present in the finished ginja). The price is 2.5 times higher than the prices in ordinary cafes. But the atmosphere! Inexpressible! I didn't like the jingle. Too strong for a liqueur and not sweet at all. But the coffee and pasta were amazing!

Café Majestic

Café Majestic, patio

On the flowery street Rua das Flores (R. das Flores) there is a small baroque church of the 16th century, the Church of Mercy (Igreja da Misericordia). The interior of the temple is interesting with wood carvings in the neoclassical style, the walls are decorated with blue and white azulezos tiles of the 17th century, and the main altar of the 16th century, which was inherited from the previous building.

Flower Street (R. das Flores)

Church of Mercy (Igreja da Misericordia)

Igreja da Misericordia

Nearby is the most beautiful train station in Europe, Sao Bento. The station building itself deserves special attention. In the past, it was the Benedictine monastery of Sã o Bento de Ave Maria. It was later converted into a train station. The project for the construction of the station was entrusted to the architect José Marcus de Silva, who built the building in the style of French neoclassical architecture. The decoration of the Sao Bento station is famous for the famous azulejo tiles. The building was decorated by the artist Georges Colas. Inside the station, the walls are decorated with paintings by this artist, more than 20.000 azulejo tiles in blue and white, illustrating episodes from the history of railways and vehicles in the upper part of the walls, battle scenes in the middle, and paintings of peasant life, as well as historical scenes from the life of Portugal, such as the arrival of the monarch Joã o I and Philippa of Lancaster in the city of Porto. The station was opened in 1896, fully completed in 1916. It is still operational. From this station I left for Braga.

Sao Bento, the most beautiful train station in Europe

Sao Bento train station at night

Sao Bento Station

If you walk from the station along D. Afonso Henriques Avenue, on the right, on the hill, the Se Catedral Cathedral rises monumentally. It has been rebuilt several times, so it does not have a single style. In my opinion, the mixture of baroque, rococo and austere medieval fortresses only add charm to this beautiful cathedral! The most expensive object of the cathedral is the baroque altar of a small chapel, the construction of which went to 800 kilograms of silver. It was saved from the French in 1809 by being hidden by a wall of stucco quickly built in front of it. Even more impressive is the small Gothic patio (claustra) of the 14th century with beautiful rococo azulejos. When I was going up to the cathedral, from afar I heard the “Winged Swing”, which someone, mercilessly out of tune, performed on the trumpet. Wonderful, I thought! But no! When the sounds of “Fly up the fires” were heard, I realized that ours was playing! And there is! Russian, in Portugal for 15 years. He does not complain about life, but dreams of returning. In Braga, I sat in a cafe, at the next table of which sat Ukrainians, all about 50. In Portugal, 15-20 years old. Very satisfied with life. I confess, I eavesdropped on their conversations without admitting that I understand them! ))) They shared all sorts of loopholes among themselves: where to buy what is cheaper, when discounts and sales begin, and other worldly subtleties that make it easier to live in a foreign country! The income is not great. The average salary for unskilled workers is 500 €. But the lady said that at the sale the child bought jeans, a T-shirt and sneakers for 10 €. Well Duc, you can live!

Se Catedral

Exchange Palace (Palá cio da Bolsa) - a magnificent palace, a masterpiece of neoclassical style! Each hall here is a real work of art, but the Arabian Hall is simply amazing with its luxury! Its interior is reminiscent of the Alhambra Palace. It took more than 200 kg of gold leaf to finish it! But the building itself deserves special attention. Topped with an octagonal glass dome, the building is decorated with numerous coats of arms. The Tribunal Hall, the Assembly Hall, the Golden Hall - these and many other unique names hide truly unique interiors. Entrance to the exchange building is free, but to see the entire palace you need to buy a ticket for 8 €. The tour is conducted by a guide in English, Portuguese and French. Groups form, depending on the language. I read on the Internet that you need to sign up much in advance, sometimes 6-7 hours before the tour, sometimes 12-24 hours before. I'm lucky here. Excursion in English lang. expected in 30 minutes. I happily agreed! In the meantime, I went to inspect those premises, the entrance to which does not require the purchase of a ticket.

Exchange Palace (Palá cio da Bolsa)

Arab Hall of the Stock Exchange

The Church of San Francisco (Igreja da Sao Fransisco) is considered one of the most beautiful temples in the city. More precisely - the most beautiful! More than 400 kg of gold leaf were used in its decoration! It is so beautiful that the clergy decided not to hold prayers there. That is why today the Church of San Francisco works exclusively as a museum. Photography in the temple is prohibited, filmed furtively on the phone. At the Church of San Francisco there are catacombs in which the graves of the townspeople of the 18th and 19th centuries are located. Burials are divided into tiers. At the very top are tombs and urns with ashes, and at the very bottom, behind glass walls, are piles of bones and skulls. Also at the temple there is a museum and a treasury.

Sao Francisco Church (Igreja da Sao Fransisco)

Igreja da Sao Fransisco

On Sundays I went to Braga. Although there was very little time even in Porto, I could not give up the dream of seeing this magical staircase Via Sacra ("Holy Road"), which rises to the Sanctuary of Santuario do Bom Jesus do Monte (Bon Jesus do Monti - Church of Christ at Golgotha). But I will write about this separately.

I flew away in the evening, so until three o'clock I had time to finish what I didn't have time to finish. I just walked and it was great! Ride a boat on the Douro River. The tour is called "6 bridges", costs 12.50 €. I read on the Internet that this is a waste of money and time, because all the same views open both from the coast of Ribeira and from the coast of the city opposite Vila Nova de Gaia. In part they are right. I just love sea (river, lake) walks! And I consider it a wonderful pastime, especially in good sunny weather! Well, 12.50 € is not such a big amount to regret it. But, of course, everyone decides for himself!

I visited the churches: Igreja Dos Congregados, Igreja da S. Nicolau, Igreja Sto. Ildefonso. Before leaving for the airport, I went to the Mercado do Bolhã o market, bought sweets for home and friends.

Igreja Dos Congregados

Igreja da S. Nicolau

Igreja da Trindade

Igreja Sto. Ildefonso

City Council

In Porto, even McDonald's is imperial!

Azulejo, from a distance - ordinary, upon closer inspection it turns out to be a work of art!

Colorful personalities of Porto

Rabeloo boats used to transport protowine

rabelou boats carrying protowine

A walk along the Douro River

A walk along the Douro River. Ribeira

About the migrants: I didn't see them. Moreover, I generally saw few ethnic Arabs and Africans. To be more precise: I saw one, he traded watches on the Ribeira embankment. I suspect that he has been living in Portugal for a hundred years. In any case, he did not look like a freshly baked migrant. The guy from the reception of my hotel said that Portugal was ready to accept 8 thousand refugees, in fact, a thousand arrived! ))) They don't want to go to Portugal! God bless! There is more to travel in peace!

What I didn’t have time to do: I didn’t have time to walk in the parks, in particular, I really wanted to take a walk in the Crystal Palace Park. Didn't have time to ride the funicular! Not all temples managed to get inside! Didn't make it to Guimarã es! And I really wanted to!

I took the subway back to the airport. Travel 1.85 € + 0.60 € card. From the Hotel Girassol, a 5-minute walk to the Bolhã o metro station (next to the Mercado do Bolhã o market), there is a direct line to the airport. On the way 28 minutes. For everything, about everything - 45-50 minutes on the road. Subway cards are blue. On trains - green. It makes sense to keep the cards if you plan to return to Porto. I'm planning! Lost my metro card! I suspect I washed it in my jeans pocket! Don't worry! 0.60 € - not a big loss! In the subway car I saw a bearded girl. From the back - a very petite girl, with a thin neck, with a smooth line of shoulders. The first thing I noticed was the shirt. The girl was dressed in layers, as they like in Europe. On top of the T-shirt was a hideous beige T-shirt, with a dot that looked like baby diarrhea! I looked and thought: “Is that what made this girl buy such a nasty T-shirt? While I was thinking this, the girl turned around. And I was dumbfounded! She had a gorgeous beard and mustache! And it's not just three hairs caused by a hormonal imbalance! NO! It was a thick BEARD! She didn't look like a trance at all! She had clear primary signs, in any case, piles, and, obviously, no less than the second size! So, dumbfounded, I didn’t even notice how I rushed to the airport!

In conclusion, what do I want to say? Porto is a mega city! He tore me to pieces! Ripped my soul to pieces! I have not experienced such delight and such pleasure for a long time! It turns out that in order to understand this Dude, you had to have a drink with him properly, and then, embracing, wander through the crooked streets of Ribeira, looking into the gates, looking back at the Douro River and the beautiful bridges across it! It's like with a man, looking at whom you think: “Come on, he doesn't deserve me! I'm all like that - I'm waiting for the tram, and here this tramp! And one has only to give him a chance, talk heart to heart, look deeper into his bottomless eyes, and oh, a miracle! The mega-world opens! And I don't mind at all to repeat the meeting, dinner, conversation and everything else!! ! Even more! I dream about it!

Translated automatically from Russian. View original