And the train was quietly going to Berdichev ... (part 2)
About WHERE TO LIVE in Berdichev, they already wrote on Turpravda:
http://www.turpravda.ua/ua/berdichev/U_Svata-h36962-r79323.html
http://www.turpravda.ua/ua/berdichev/Pan_otel-h25385-r54202.html
From myself, I’ll clarify that the hotel “At the Matchmaker” is located on the outskirts of the city in the direction of Zhytomyr-Kyiv.
"Pan Hotel" is located directly at the railway station - according to the reviews of those who dared to stay in it, if you are not embarrassed by a dream under the continuous "On the kha-kha-way, you will get the sips of the received ... " - then you can go here.
There is also the Mirabella Hotel in the city - it is located in the center, not far from the city market. But living conditions are close to Soviet ones.
The new hotel "Deja Vu" is located almost in the very center of Berdichev. However, its windows, from which the synagogue and the Barefoot Carmelite Sanctuary are visible, also overlook a fairly busy city highway.
The windows overlooking the courtyard at the same time overlook the parking lot and show the "wrong side" of the city - an old courtyard with a wooden porch, on which a homeless-looking man in a washed-out T-shirt smokes a cigarette. In winter, if there are no guests, they save on heating. But there is a decent sports bar (Russian billiards, sports channels, hookah, a large selection of beer and stronger drinks).
About WHERE TO EAT. It’s a pity, of course, that nowhere in the city you will be able to try fish-fish, which is best characterized by such a compliment: “Madame Ninochka, just don’t tell anyone about this fish secret, but my Tsilya has nothing to do with you! ". For those who want to capture themselves on the Central Square near the granite globe, a landmark: turning your back to the ball and facing the city hall building, you see a small semi-basement room attached to it. You go there, and you will be happy: always fresh food, pastries.
Quality is guaranteed - "mayor's" employees can eat here. Prices are ridiculous: salad 3-6 UAH. , borsch, soup (or "first") - 7-10-12 UAH. , meat and fish 10-12 UAH, garnish - 3-5 UAH. The portions are not huge, but quite decent. Well, it is, for a "light" tourist snack.
Delicious coffee - in the coffee shop "Filizhanka", near the Church of the Barefoot Carmelites. Stylized as a Lviv coffee house, a very cozy place. Average check (coffee, dessert) 20-30 UAH.
For a more thorough pastime, we can safely recommend the kitchen "At the Matchmaker" (as I said, on the outskirts of the city in the direction of Zhitomir-Kyiv). There is also a cafe "Zholud" on the road (that's right, in Ukrainian transcription not through "e". Styling as a kolyba. Very tasty food, but not a budget institution - a light dinner without alcohol for two 200.00 UAH. Large portions - be careful with When ordering: soberly calculate your strength? . Good "Patelnya", banosh, pancakes. In the first half of the day there is always porridge, including oatmeal.
And finally, about the main thing. WHAT TO SEE IN BERDICHEV. Of course, we are not Lvov, not Odessa, not Chernihiv, not Chernivtsi. But, as they say, we also have something nice to look at.
So, must-see Berdichev:
Central Square - recently reconstructed, one of the favorite places for recreation of the townspeople. In the summer heat, it is pleasant to feel the coolness of the fountain, sit in the shade of the trees, admire the globe, on which “Berdychiv” is inscribed in gold letters, or a symbolic granite beer mug in human height, or the “kowska” arch - a gift to the city from local blacksmiths. Already this year, Central Square has not escaped the most modern trends and has undergone yet another “reconstruction” - it, like many others, was embraced by “Leninfall”, and our Lenin, although he was not fat (hello to Vyborg, where I once studied ), alas, rested in Bose. What to do with the orphaned pedestal has not been figured out yet.
The monastery-fortress of the Barefoot Carmelite Order is rightfully considered the hallmark of the city. Not a single "distinguished" guest managed to avoid the obligatory ritual of presenting them with a painting depicting a fortress. The architectural complex with a baroque church has recently been restored. The main shrine of the temple is the miraculous icon of the Mother of God of Berdichev, which was kept in the church until the fire in 1941.
The church (or klyashtor) of the Order of Barefoot Carmelites was returned to the Polish community of the city in 1991. In the rest of the monastery, the local history museum, music and art schools are now located.
In 1997, a copy of the icon was already consecrated and crowned by Pope John Paul II himself - he actually crowned, small golden crowns were hung on the icon above the images of the Virgin Mary and the baby Christ.
Now every summer on the day of the coronation (July 16, but the celebrations take place on the weekend closest to this date) in the city there is a huge holiday - the Day of the Coronation of the Icon of the Mother of God of Berdichev. Pilgrims from all over Ukraine, Poland and other countries come to bow to her. They believe that it is not inferior in strength to the famous Polish Czestochowa icon. The upper church is for believers, the lower (“dolny”) is only for the Carmelite monks inhabiting the monastery. Services are held in Russian, Ukrainian and Polish.
Don't be lazy yet - look at the monastery from the other side of the river or from the pedestrian bridge.
On the territory of the fortress there is a historical museum of Berdichev.
Entrance to the territory of the monastery is free.
Church of St. Barbara (before the revolution it was called Farny). Here in 1850, the Polish Countess Evelina Hanska married the French writer Honore de Balzac.
Now on the facade of the temple you can see a memorial plaque with a bas-relief of the writer. In the same church at the beginning of the 19th century, Frederic Chopin learned to play stringed instruments.
Before the war, the church was closed; during the war, services were held there, and after that it was turned into a warehouse, and then into a children's sports school. Currently, the church is active, so in the morning and in the evening you can get to the service.
Immediately behind the church is the first in Ukraine monastery of the Order of the Small Sisters of the Immaculate Heart of Mary, its construction was completed in 2013.
The Church of St. Nicholas is the main Orthodox church in Berdichev. At first it was made of wood, but by the beginning of the 20th century, the temple had already become very dilapidated, so it was decided to build a stone temple. Archpriest John of Kronstadt was elected the first and chief honorary builder of the church.
The building committee decided "to build a stone church, with a capacity of up to 800 people, in the Byzantine style with two domes: one central, and the other for the bell tower. " In November 1808, Berdichev witnessed a great celebration - the episcopal consecration of the new Nicholas Church. In 1938, the temple was closed, church property was immediately looted, icons, books were destroyed or thrown away. The main shrine of the Nicholas Church - the ancient miraculous image of St. Nicholas mysteriously disappeared under mysterious circumstances.
After that there was a "proletarian cinema", then the temple was used mainly as a granary, warehouses and offices of various offices.
The Nicholas Church was opened already during the German occupation. And in 1996, the parish Nicholas Church was elevated to the rank of a cathedral and became the second cathedral church in the Zhytomyr diocese.
In its architecture, the Nicholas Church is an example of a very successful baroque stylization.
Across the river, almost on the outskirts, which the locals call "Zagrebelie", is the Holy Trinity Church (1836).
Many people come to see the old Jewish cemetery, which is not inferior to Kazimierz in Krakow or Josefov in Prague. No one has been buried here for a long time. Actually, almost all the Jews of Berdichev were destroyed by the Nazis in 1941, and during the years of Soviet power, the religious life of the Jews who returned to the city was limited. Although Yiddish, which was spoken by most of the inhabitants before the revolution, contemporaries got a specific accent. However, Hasidim from all over the world come every summer to the grave of tzadik Levi Yitzhak Berdichevsky, because his relics are considered miraculous. Therefore, Berdychiv is sometimes called Volyn Jerusalem.
Berdichevsky brewery, founded in 1861, is located near the railway station. They brew beer “as before”, so the average shelf life of “Berdichevsky” is only 3 weeks.
WHAT TO BRING from Berdichev and where to buy it.
I would recommend to start buying souvenirs from the company store of the already mentioned brewery. The store is about a block from the brewery, towards the city center. One of the most popular drinks is the dark beer "Evening Boulevard". Personally, I still love "Old Berdychiv". Both beer are brewed in small quantities, it is not easy to find it (just like in Soviet times). But the uncle who sells in this store is one of those who speaks such a specific “Berdich” language, and if your wit touches the sensitive strings of his soul, it may very well be that the casket will open and you will be really happy.
Traditional magnets with views of the city, as well as other souvenirs with a local theme, can be bought at the Transit-S store (located right across the street from St. Nicholas Cathedral). There are also various typical Ukrainian souvenirs: glechiki, kukhliki, etc.
You can come to our city just like that. You can see it on the way. But be sure - he will not leave you indifferent. And you still want to come here again and again ...
Py. Sy. All photos in this report are not mine. Excuse me.
