Good city Ternopil (c), part 1

13 May 2016 Travel time: with 30 April 2016 on 02 May 2016
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Sometimes I travel short distances, well, I have such an extravagant habit, although in our province it is not considered something extraordinary. But now it's not about that : ). So here it is. Somehow this is how I returned home, solving some business matters. And a casual companion who responded to my raised hand, with whom we spoke "for life" on the way, told me that despite the frequent trips abroad (because of work in a pharmaceutical company), she loves to travel to Ukraine. And she set a goal to visit all regional centers of Ukraine and the capital of the Autonomous Republic of Crimea. And after this conversation, a crazy thought stuck in my head: shouldn't I look at all 25 cities? After all, how else can you get a complete impression of Ukraine, beautiful and independent? Thus under "look" I mean to live at least one day, instead of to walk 2 hours, being travel.

To date, I have seen 25, oh, and how many?


And we still remember that trip as one of the best. Or maybe because Ternopil is often called the "heart" of Western Ukraine. And until recently in a TV show it was mentioned that in Ternopil there are more than 20 Amks alone (although not all of them look worthy because of their respectable age and absolute indifference of the authorities to their fate), and not to mention churches ко And what Although Ternopil region is smaller in area than Lviv, but historical and architectural monuments in its territory are not less (if not more)… And that… mature, and, as the trip showed, absolutely correct.

Couldn't decide on program.

Since this is Western Ukraine, and the trip coincided with Easter, there were doubts about whether the museums-restaurants would work (planned to visit the streets we were going to walk, it was clear that they would "work". Like the pond in the center of Ternopil). Well, I hesitated for a long time in choosing a hotel. Because I couldn't decide whether we should go to the Ternopil water park (I've never been to a water park before, but I suddenly wanted to). And if the water park, then the hotel should be chosen nearby. Or well, this water park, when in Ternopil itself, and next to it a field of unploughed "work" (that is, there is something nice to look at). But then it is better to live closer to the city center.

But, as they say, man assumes, and God has. When I decided to book a shelter in Ternopil on Thursday evening (departure was scheduled for Saturday), it turned out that there were no more places in the water park hotel.

And in general, more or less inexpensive with breakfast and parking have already snatched more agile visitors. In a slight panic, for some reason I ran away from my usual Hotels24ua armored car, jumped on the Booking, where I grabbed the number for UAH 390 according to the Super Offer. / day (about 13 euros) with all necessary parameters. After receiving the booking confirmation by mail, I was surprised by the phrase "Price per person per night" and to insure, I called the hotel at the number indicated in the reservation.

Such a pleasant Ternopil resident (judging by his voice, not a young man), refuted and dispelled all my doubts and so hospitably invited me to come sooner that I melted away and spent 10 minutes with him. Like, I wanted to for a long time, here we go, but Easter, and you have Greek Catholics there, and I would like to see "how you do there", and how far the church, etc.


Having received answers to all questions and a verbal guarantee of personal accompaniment to the temple for the service, very pleased with herself and vis-a-vis, hung up, decided to look again, what a good man and how well he booked everything. And oops! It turns out that on Hotels24ua the same number is sold at the same price without any "Super Offers" (ie it is his native price, not a discount). In addition, it turns out that there are rooms at a price of 350 UAH. / per day. It is, of course, UAH . 80. (Almost 3 oiro) for two days unprincipled at all (well, this time to drink coffee at OKKO). But once again it was sad to see his inattention. From here, she once again concluded that it is never possible to hurry at all. And then continued to prepare for the trip.

Anticipating the trip, I inadvertently remembered that somewhere on the TP I read about Mikulinets beer, and this is just for us on the way. But what beer was recommended and most importantly, where it is written, I could not remember.

But, despite the rush at work, I decided that beer is more important to me: -). After flipping through a bunch of pages on Turpravda and never finding the information I was looking for (despite the fact that I even remembered visually how it appeared), I decided to interrogate the locals upon arrival. Taking with us local souvenirs, with a printed paper book about Ternopil-Zbarazh, but without a map, on the morning of Saturday, the last day of April, we set off.

In principle, any ride in a car with a "personal driver" seems cheerful and euphoric to me. And if this trip! . . In short, the level of endorphins in the blood simply escalated. And I, according to the habit of "working gladly", all the way and talked, and read aloud the book, and had fun and had fun, and gnawed seeds and candy, and all this almost simultaneously))). In short, she strongly reminded herself of Masha from "Masha and the Bear" (although I'm not blonde, and I have no rivers ... : -)).

And "Bear" knew how to "drive", from time to time indulgently looked at me, smiled and ...

And he was driving on a wonderful road. Yes, it was some completely forest slums of Zhytomyr region. But what!

And so slowly, with stops to take pictures, breathe, have a snack, admiring the absolutely pastoral landscapes:

as well as modern:

and any interesting details:

Crane ...

...and the crane

we arrived in Ternopil in the best mood:

Immediately headed to the hotel. I must say that this time there was a mistake: I made a mistake in my choice.

No, not that everything was terrible.

But it was the hotel that spoiled the impression of a "nice" city. Moaning and complaining about the hotel here Palada. But not a goddess: (


But as they say, war is war, and lunch is on schedule. In our connection, what is good is the common interests: ). And we're both not stupid at eating deliciously. Therefore, the proposal to sip some soup for dinner, for example, in the concept restaurant "Ark" was met with great support.

I learned about "The Ark" quite by accident, browsing the Internet before the trip. Another restaurant - "Old Mill" - that's right, it was a dream and a very specific goal. But in the end it turned out that it turned out very well that we got to the "Ark" earlier. We liked him much more.

More about the ark of gastronomic excesses - in the first report About food. Ark Restaurant-Brewery (Ternopil) .

A distinctive feature of Ternopil was the phantasmagoric numbering of houses. When in search of the cherished house 5A (where the restaurant is located), we came to the house в 5 for the third time, and already decided that our tablet navigator just out of malice "lead us astray" and probably just need to walk to the yard, still stopped passing past the guy. They asked if he knew where the Ark restaurant was. He explained with a smile that you should go the exact opposite. It will be very difficult to walk, as I intended, because you have to go "in that direction, despite the gas station, then despite the shopping center" (I give this example of Ternopil language especially for those who speak Ukrainian).

Here in our life no one will ever use the word "direction" in the sense of "direction", most likely they will say "direction". That is, it is such an obvious Polonism. And "despite" in the sense of "past" we also do not use at all).

That's right, I was distracted by the specifics of Western Ukrainian speech: -). So, when we got back in the car to go in the specified "direction", it turned out that in our futile wanderings is not the fault of the tablet navigator. And even the non-tablet "navigator", according to her own nonsense, set the address without the letter "A", for which she paid as follows.

Since it was Easter Eve, I decided to go to the local church for Easter service at home. But at the hotel we found out that it is customary to consecrate a traditional Easter basket here in the evening. And, regardless of religion.


And in the many "turns" around the city market in search of the "Ark", we saw many decorated citizens, with incredibly beautiful baskets clearly hurry to the temples or return from them. Approaching the young couple with a direct question: "Are you going to church or are you already returning from it? ”Heard in response that they were going to church.

Green. But closer to here is another. Yellow (yellow). At first I thought that the name was local to the church. The inspection revealed that this is an accurate characteristic of the color scheme of their facades (yellow) or roofs (green).

So they decided that when I could not agree with the navigator, I went to church for dinner. It also made sense that going to church after dinner with beer was somehow not very decent. And I didn't have the strength to give up beer either.

In search of a restaurant, we drove around the city market all the time.

And long ago noticed the Greek Catholic church, which rises on a hill, the Church of the Assumption of the Blessed Virgin (otherwise known as the Monastery Church). Since it all happened so fast, I have some pictures of the temple outside.

And I was ashamed to go inside, because there were a lot of people and I did not want to disturb the believers with my curiosity.

At the entrance to the churchyard she noticed that almost all parishioners are photographed right next to the church with their Easter baskets:

You can't find that for sure here. And here the photo shoot did not stop for a minute. Like the consecration of the baskets, the time interval between the next passage of the priest among the ranks of believers did not exceed 15 minutes.

And if you only saw these baskets! They were decorated with ribbons, lace, the finest capes, and towels, and fresh flowers…

Of course, it was ugly to take pictures of other people's baskets. These two accidentally caught my eye. Like two blackbirds, they sat down to rest on the roadside J ))

And in the baskets, well, just was not!


It seems that our country is not so big. And how interesting that even in baskets put different contents. There were cheese and sour cream (! ), Sausages and bread, cucumbers and tomatoes (! ), Easter cakes and paints, cheese and candy. And a slightly unconventional prayer for me, the priest said: "And consecrate these gifts and other meat products ... "

My humble traveler's basket looked like an orphan at the royal ball. Like me, who appeared in the churchyard in jeans and sneakers: (and not in heels and formal dresses, like local ladies : ))

An elderly couple appeared next to me in the churchyard. While waiting for the priest, they quietly discussed that the moment when this church was blown up is still remembered. At first I thought I might go to war. But it seems that people are at such a respectable age. And when she got home, she climbed into Vicky.

How did she learn that originally the Church of the Assumption (or Monastery, because it had a monastery) was wooden. 200 years later it was dismantled and built of stone. Both the church and the monastery were destroyed in 1962 (! ). And what we see now is a modern building that is different from the original.

Once all the Easter formalities were complied with, they exhaled with relief and hurried to dinner. In The Ark:

From where we returned in complete nirvana from what we saw and ate. We watched football.

And we prepared for tomorrow's meeting with Ternopil.

Yes, here's what. In the hotel, going to Turpravda, I almost immediately found what I had been looking for for so long: the same story about Ternopil. traces of the New Year's calendar , which prompted a trip to a cool city. And in the comments to which beer and whiskey (! ) Are discussed.

She spread her "wings" and dreamed of buying this good home for gifts. But… It turned out that during the Easter holiday in Western Ukraine, EVERYTHING was closed: markets, shops, pharmacies, etc. As a result, we bought home beer, of course. But in the "Ark". And I will have to go for vyskarik again! : -)

Next will be ...

Translated automatically from Ukrainian. View original
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 Житомирщина. По пути на Тернопольщину
  Житомирщина. По пути на Тернопольщину
 Где-то между Житомиром и Тернополем :)
 Сельская церковь, место не помню
 Знаю, что аист. Но может и журавль...:)
 А это самый настоящий журавЕль: это колодец, на длинной жерди ведро. Если зачерпнуть ним воды, то стоит только перехватить руками жердь, и сила инерции сама его выталкивает на поверхность. А ведь
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 Тернополь. Успенская церковь. Прихожане фотографируются со своими пасхальными корзинками
 Тернополь. Успенская церковь. Освящение пасхальных корзинок
Местные корзинки тернопольчан
 Скромная корзинка путешественника
 Тернополь. Успенская церковь
 Тернополь. Ресторан-броварня
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