Is it worth it or not? Or all the nuances of the first trip to Egypt without a male escort

12 December 2022 Travel time: with 23 September 2022 on 30 September 2022
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Greetings, dear friends, associates and travelers! I haven't written anything here for a long time, but I already miss my readers. The reason for my silence is clear - the war. This terrible calamity, brought to our native land, deprived people of everything: life, health, peace, property, rest and usual usual joys and worries. Looking ahead, I will say that this is a detailed story about how a woman can properly and safely organize her vacation without a male escort, and what are the specifics of such a vacation, I will share my experience and acquired knowledge down to the smallest details. Because as they say: the devil is in the details.

You can say that I am lucky: my relatives and friends are alive, I have work and income, and my property is intact. I am from the small, picturesque regional center of Sumy, 35 km from the border with the aggressor. 24.02. 2022 life was divided into "before" and "after". Although Sumy itself was not occupied, the region was captured and is still being captured.


Previously, my husband and I vacationed at least twice a year, because we love the sea, especially the Red Sea. That's how it all came together: 1 holiday in Sri Lanka, 3 in Turkey and as many as 28 in Egypt. In 2022, the beloved Marsa Alam was planned for April, but I didn't have time to make a reservation, I was waiting for the price to drop. I managed to order 3 shorts and choose a new snorkel mask.

Trouble came to our house unexpectedly on a cold February night. My husband immediately went to defend his native land, I found an opportunity to help. Thanks to our heroes, my region was completely liberated already at the beginning of April, but my country is not yet. I will not describe my life during the partial occupation of the region and after the liberation, that is a completely different story.

We are planning a vacation.

After a few months of war, insane moral and physical fatigue began to "cover". My husband started insisting that I rest and "reboot".

I began to look for directions, I will say right away that I am a "sea" person, mountains are not an option for me. The coasts of the Azov and Black seas are either completely occupied or heavily shelled. I looked towards the distant seas. But there is no air connection at all. I wanted to go to Albania, I have never been there, the reviews are not bad, the price is acceptable. I started studying this option. The bus tour takes almost 2 days. Oh, that's all, such a prospect was simply terrifying. I can't stand moving far away. For me, a 5-hour transfer from Sumy to Boryspil is already a feat, and here it is almost 2 days. Turkey, Italy, Spain and Greece - a similar problem and also a very high price.

I started monitoring my beloved Egypt, I know it very well, and I feel like a fish in water there. The cheapest and shortest transfer option is through Chisinau. The main thing is to choose the right resort and hotel.

Priorities: a good home reef is a must, a minimum of Russians, respectful attitude of the staff towards women, because for the first time in my life I am going to Egypt without a male escort, an acceptable price.


I really like Marsa Alam, but there are no direct flights, I will still have to go through an additional transfer from Hurghada for 4-5 hours. It's scary to even think about it. Hurghada was never an acceptable option due to the large number of vacationers from the aggressor country and the poverty of the coast for coral and fish. Sharm is much more expensive, and the prospect of a neighborhood with an influx of Russians is not pleasing. Dahab, Safaga, Taba, El Gouna - a weak underwater world. The only optimal option that I know well is Makadi Bay, I choose a hotel that I have stayed at twice - Sunwing Family Star (I left a review). After much hesitation, I decided to buy at least 7 days of peaceful normal life on the shores of the amazing Red Sea in September 2022, departing from Chisinau to Hurghada.

But we still have to somehow get to Chisinau airport.

All my life I have been a classic "package" tourist, adventures in the form of planning transfers, connections, overnight stays in other cities, and in general, everything that is not an "all-inclusive" tour is not for me. And even without a male escort. It was scary to even think about such a vacation. Somehow she got a hold of herself, went online and started planning independent trips. There are 2 options to get from Sumy to Chisinau: either to Kyiv (train or minibus 5 hours), then bus to Chisinau (oh, only 13 hours of hell), or train to Vinnytsia (after a day, 9 and a half hours on the way) then bus to Chisinau (up to 9 hours). I chose the first option, it was much more suitable during the departure, I would not have to wander around Vinnytsia in the morning with my suitcases for about 6 hours, and then spend the night in Chisinau, which I was completely unfamiliar with.

I bought a ticket to Kyiv on the "Ukrzaliznytsia" website, and for a bus to Chisinau on the "Busfor" website, paid for everything online. I also carefully planned and paid for the way back. Everything is quite rational, checked by time, but I pray that no force majeure will happen anywhere.

We pack our suitcases

It's time to pack for the road. My imagination drew me not only a long transfer, but also my huge heavy suitcase, which I would have to drag on my back like a donkey to Makadi with several transfers. Therefore, packing correctly is extremely important for an independent traveler. A few years ago, I made a detailed list of things for the road, which I periodically update.

A big plus: September in Egypt is very warm even at night, so you won't need any warm clothes. The hardest and most important thing is the gear: my long flippers and new full face mask are definitely coming with me.


Fortunately, a wetsuit is not needed, the water in the sea should be very warm. We collect the first aid kit very carefully, regardless of its weight. There is such a 100% omen: if you don't take medicine for it, it will definitely happen, I've tested it myself. Cosmetic products should also be taken, in hotels it is extremely rare to have a complete high-quality cosmetic set, except for shower gel. Find small containers and pour shampoo, hair balm, body cream into them. Perfumes, facial products, cosmetics and hair styling products, if you use them, will also not be superfluous. Beach and evening shoes and clothes, panama, glasses, underwear, swimwear - standard. Weekend dresses begged for the suitcase in full, we had to arrange a tough and ruthless casting for them. I don't take gold jewelry on trips, because it would be a shame to lose it, I get by with silver and costume jewelry. This time, I took a moisturizing cloth-based face mask with me, and I didn't regret it.

You can bring the skin to order very quickly.

I strongly advise you to bring a T-shirt that fits well to the body for swimming in the sea, because the sun is very aggressive, the water is like a lens, and it is very easy to get burned even while swimming. Looking ahead, I will say that a t-shirt helped, but swimming shorts would also be useful. When you swim with flippers, the part of the body below the back is slightly above the water, and after a few days it reminded me of 2 ripe Red Delicious apples.

There is one more nuance: when I travel with my husband, he usually has many pockets where it is convenient to put room keys, tips and other small things. Women's evening wear usually has no pockets, so a small clutch with a shoulder strap turned out to be very appropriate. For her heavy bulky equipment, she bought a backpack for fins in advance, it also contained a mask, keys, cream and other things.

A very convenient thing that allows you to relieve your hands.

Don't spare money and buy compression golfs. A very useful thing if you are planning a long sitting move. I also advise you to put the paste, brush, comb and cream in your hand luggage first, so that you can quickly put yourself in order on the way. But at the airport, do not forget to transfer hygiene products to the main luggage.

I put documents, money, phone and tickets for all types of transport in a clutch (she didn't let it out of her hands), copies of all documents were in the main suitcase. I took light pants, summer shoes, and sunglasses in my hand luggage so that I could quickly change clothes at the Hurghada airport. She put 2 bottles of water, napkins, chocolate, cakes, bananas and tomato juice. And here I made a mistake: there was too much water and cakes and juice. I had to throw away the excess at the airport in Moldova.

Long way to Makadi


I got a little mentally prepared for the long tiring road and set off. I go to Kyiv by train, lying in a comfortable compartment. I will have time to sit still. The train is a little late, but I still have a whole 3 hours before the bus. It's a hassle, there are no ramps at the railway station, I drag my two suitcases on me to the third floor.

I have lunch in a nice cafeteria near the station. Thank God, everything is going according to plan.

I take a taxi to the bus station and wait a little longer.

The huge bus arrived on schedule, there are very few people, we comfortably sit 1 person on 2 chairs. I was worried for nothing, this transfer is not so difficult in such conditions. There is even an opportunity to recharge your phone on the bus. Stops were made frequently,  I would get off and just walk around the side of the bus to get the blood flowing.

The compression socks turned out to be very appropriate, the legs did not hurt and did not swell at all.

We go through 2 customs, it takes quite a long time, be patient. Hand luggage and suitcases were also selectively checked. We had a small delay due to the document check of the deported man who was traveling with us.

I took the bus directly to the airport, it was the most suitable according to the schedule, which I did not regret, although the cost was the highest. I was at the airport 30 minutes before check-in, which was enough time to get ready. Registration was quite fast. Half of the plane are citizens of Moldova, half are citizens of Ukraine (more precisely, most of them are citizens for obvious reasons). Compared to Boryspil, the airport is tiny.

"Duty free" is present, although the selection is also modest.

For many years, I have been buying face products and perfume exclusively at Duty Free, a good combination of price and quality. The last time I replenished the stock was in November of last year, the cream is almost finished. I buy cosmetics and perfumes, and who comes from Moldova without "White Stork" (7 euros for 0.5 l 5*)? I was also interested in "sparkling" in aluminum cans, a good dry and semi-sweet wine (1.5 euros for 0.25 l), I grabbed a few pieces.


The plane is a standard Boeing 737, but the smell was very unusual, I had the impression that horses had been transported by it before, I had never experienced such a thing. They took off normally. I met a wonderful couple from Poltava who were sitting next to me. They talked almost the entire flight.

At the Hurghada airport, we cooperated with the people of Poltava and went through all the procedures very quickly.

I did not buy a local SIM card at the airport, I connected my operator's roaming at the border with Moldova, which I did not regret, the connection was flawless, and the cost was almost the same as the local card.

The transfer to Makadi was short, 30 minutes, and I am at the hotel. At the reception, I met an already well-known employee, I was checked in quickly, and I got my favorite room for the 3rd time. I will not repeat the review about the hotel. The level has decreased a little, it is visible in insignificant trifles, and will be noticed only by those who rest here not for the first time. I will say in advance that the things were collected correctly, and the clutch, backpack for fins, face mask were very useful.

Egyptian taxi. Acquaintance with "Baron".

We were constantly in touch with new acquaintances from Poltava, Olena and Serhiy. They stayed for the 8th time at the Baron Palace Hotel in the nearby Sahl Hasheesh Bay.

This is one of the most luxurious and beautiful hotels in all of Egypt. My new friends invited me there for dinner. I gladly accepted the offer: I would like to talk with them and see the legendary hotel. The question is how to get there? Our hotels are in nearby bays, the distance along the coast is about 7 km, but walking through the desert after sunset is not an option, the only option is a taxi. Hotel limousine service is reliable, safe, but very expensive, definitely not. A taxi outside the hotel is much cheaper, but I would definitely not recommend it to a woman without a male escort.

I decided to install the Uber application, there is no such service in my city, I have never used it before. The taxi arrived in 5 minutes, 62 hryvnias were debited from the card, great. We drove up to the post between our 2 bays, it turned out that for unknown reasons they wouldn't let us through the entrance, no arguments worked.


I had to go almost through Hurghada. You can't imagine how nervous I was all this time: I was going for an unknown amount of time and an unknown destination. And then Uber sent a message that I deviated from the route, and if I'm in danger, then I need to press a button in the application. I kept my finger on the button all the way until I reached the Baron Palace. Everything is fine, you can breathe out. Uber refunded me 62 hryvnias, but instead charged 158 hryvnias without any warning. I will say in advance that the road back turned out to be even longer and more expensive. Then I found out that this is not a whim of taxi drivers, they really do not let you go between the bays for unknown reasons.

"Baron Palace" is a truly luxurious, magnificent hotel with high standards of service, impressive architecture and high-class cuisine. The territory is very large and tidy. The high level of the hotel is felt in every detail, I have never been to such a luxury hotel. Thanks to Olena and Serhii, I had a wonderful time and gained new experiences.

A hellish excursion to the "paradise island" with a visit to the shopping center.

I like sea trips, so I took an excursion from Mustafa (I have already successfully bought excursions from him) to Orange Island. Mustafa promised a good snorkel with napoleons and moray eels, just what I need. I would rather not do this, so as not to know how the prices have risen and the service has fallen. Even on the yacht, it turned out that almost all tourists are representatives of the aggressor country. Doubtful  pleasure at your own expense. I quickly get to know and join the company of Hungarians. The surprises did not end there. The guides informed me that I bought an excursion to Orange Island, and everyone else to Paradise, so we are sailing to Paradise, awesome news, shaking. And what, is that possible?

We were unloaded to roast and take photos on some beach, having previously called it the Maldives, a long line formed for Instagram places. In general, I am not interested in roasting or photographing my beloved in all possible and impossible angles and poses. It was quite hot and the people were quietly fermenting in the fenced part of the sea near the shore. I tried to snorkel: I didn't find coral and fish there, but I could look for a dirtier area in the Red Sea.

We returned to the yacht and went by sea to the promised area with moray eels and napoleons. Hooray, finally there will be snorkeling!! ! They dived into the sea. Everyone knows that it is strictly forbidden to feed and touch fish in the Red Sea, right?


It turns out that our guide didn't hear anything about it: he swam with a bag of cereal in his hand, periodically releasing its contents into the sea to give the impression of luxury snorkeling. A flock of small, rather widespread fish (abudefdofus, cesiums, zebrasoms) gathered behind him, tourists chased after the fish, who quite briskly in the crowd poked each other with their hands and feet on the face and other parts of the body. The guide pointed to the depths with the words that Napoleons live here somewhere, we never saw Napoleons. Okay, let's see moray eels. Somewhere in the depths, a gray-tailed beauty was humming peacefully. The guide dived, but pulled the moray by the tail well, the fish did not like this attitude at all, and who would? It is a pity that she did not bite the guide, although some positive impressions from the tour would have remained. He hit the next moray on the head accidentally, but very hard with his flipper. Here I was already able to bite him. As you may have guessed, I did not like the tour.

After the tour, I ask to be dropped off on the road near the huge shopping center "SENZO MALL". In this center you can buy almost everything: food, clothes and shoes of well-known and unknown brands, furniture, household appliances, dishes, etc. I quickly buy sweets, spices, soap, pastes, deodorants and medicines. I go to the hotel this time without incident, calling a taxi through Uber. Upon returning to the hotel, I wrote to Mustafa in detail about everything. He apologized, and after 2 days he asked what other excursion I wanted. Thank you, the previous one was enough for me, but simplicity is a great strength.

Specificity of local men.

It was not without curiosities. There are legends that local men really like curvaceous blondes with light eyes. Don't believe it, it's not true, they just really like women.

I don't own any of the colors listed above, but even when I'm on vacation with my husband, I ask him not to leave me alone one more time, because of some abnormal excessive attention from the locals. Therefore, one of the reasons for my long hesitation about traveling without a male escort was the anticipation of too much attention from local gentlemen. But the harsh reality even exceeded my fears. Compliments just poured in like a full-flowing Nile in the spring, and I didn't receive so many invitations for a date in one week (it sounds like going to see Hurghada for them) even in a month when I was 20 years younger. I have to give credit, the guys behaved quite politely, and these "tricks" even started to amuse me. If I worked as a psychotherapist, I would send women with low self-esteem to Egypt for treatment.

Therefore, girls (age does not matter), I advise you to be mentally prepared for constant compliments and invitations and not to lose your head.

The road to Kyiv.

Rest in the hotel flew by like one day. In general, everything went well. There were some minor unpleasant nuances, but I didn't want to spoil my precious vacation because of them.


It's time to go home. My already late flight was postponed for another 2 hours. I was even happy: this hotel does not cut the bracelets, feeds and drinks the guest until the last, and I still have enough time for the bus from Chisinau to Kyiv. I will stay more in the hotel, and less at the station. I was not going to extend the time of using the room, because I knew that I would spend all the time waiting for the transfer to the airport on the beach, in bars and restaurants.

At 12:00 I checked out the room, left my things in the locker, took with me money, documents, phone, equipment and a towel that I brought from home (I always take a towel with me if I have a late flight to lay it on a sunbed or wipe hair). I went to the beach, sunbathed, swam, said goodbye to the fish and my favorite bartender. After the beach, she took a shower and straightened herself up in an empty room offered at the reception for free. After dinner, a transfer was waiting in a favorite bar with live music. I said goodbye to the staff with tears in my eyes, there are very cool employees. Thank you once again to the hotel and all the staff for a wonderful vacation, I did not regret my choice.

At the Hurghada airport, I met Elena and Serhii again. We got organized and quickly went through all the procedures together. Seats were also requested together. They arrived without incident, although the plane smelled of horses again.

Elena and Serhiy decided to stay in Chisinau for 3 days to get to know Moldova. We said goodbye, but I think, God willing, I will definitely meet these wonderful people again.

Uber ignored Chisinau airport for some reason, I had to take a "bombila" to the bus station (I have a bus from there this time). Oh, and the price is "biting" - 15 Americans, but there is no alternative. We drove for 15 minutes. At the station, I met Ira and Masha from Kyiv, we met them at the airport on the way to Hurghada. Great, there is good company for a long journey.

The bus is worse than the one that went to Moldova. The drivers are generally inadequate: they were rude, rude, late, stops were made in remote villages, where you can find a toilet in the dark by smell, and food in a buffet can be poisoned just by looking at it. The Lord did hear the prayers of the hungry women, the next stop was at a gas station near Zhytomyr. It is difficult to recall the tastiest sandwich with salmon.

The road flew by very quickly with conversations with my new acquaintances. They shared their impressions of the vacation, as if they saw the sun and the sea once again. Everywhere we go is a broken Vasylkiv, it becomes eerie from the landscapes mutilated by the war. The conversation turned to terrible, sad memories of the beginning of the invasion, partial occupation, the unknown and frantic anxiety for loved ones. Although the stories are different, they are emotionally very similar.

Overnight in the capital. The Way Home.

And here is the capital of the native country. When I calculated the transfer back, I found a rather unpleasant nuance: during the curfew, no transport runs in the middle of populated areas and between them. Here's the sad math: the bus arrived in Kyiv around 20:00, it takes about 5 hours to get to Sumy, the curfew is from 23:00. There is only one conclusion - we must stay in Kyiv for the night.

Staying overnight at train stations is not my option, I choose comfort between economy and comfort. But saving a little is not a sin. I used Booking for the first time. Simple, reliable and without upfront payment. When choosing accommodation, she paid special attention not only to price and amenities, but also to location. I opened the map (although I suffer from topographical idiocy, but not from extravagance). The schedule is as follows: I arrive by bus to the Kyiv bus station in the evening, and in the morning I go by minibus to Sumy from the railway station. The distance between the stations is not great, you can save on a taxi. I find a mini-hotel between the two train stations, the price per night is 540 hryvnias. It would be possible to save money and take a bed in a hostel, but the prospect of spending the night in the same room with a bunch of strangers did not warm my soul.

Mini-hotel Westend Hotel Kyiv received a warm welcome.


The room is clean, there is a minimal set of furniture, bed linen, a towel, hangers and even a kettle, there is no TV. Facilities for several rooms, toilet, shower, cold and hot water. Everything is clean, everything works, I didn't cross paths with the neighbors. I would not live in such conditions for a long time, but for 1 night it is simply wonderful.

I have a delicious dinner in a cozy pizzeria right across the street from the hotel.

In the morning, I take a taxi and quickly find myself at the station waiting for a bus, where I have breakfast and drink coffee.

The price of a minibus to Sumy has doubled in a few months. But there are almost no people. I ride comfortably alone on 2 seats. 5 hours away and I'm home. Sumy was met with real autumn rain. Memories of a recent vacation warmed my soul.

Is it worth it or not?

To sum up briefly, I was quite satisfied with my vacation. Everything was thought out and planned quite carefully and intelligently, force majeure did not happen on the way either, thank God. To my surprise, I was almost not tired from almost 2 days of transfers, and I felt good.

What must be taken with you, apart from the necessary things? Basic knowledge of the English language will give you self-confidence in any situation. Mastering various applications for booking tickets, hotels, taxis and other benefits of civilization will make the trip more comfortable. Remember that it is never too late to learn something new. Mobile Internet, movies, programs will significantly reduce time on the road. Openness, sincerity and kindness will allow you to meet new wonderful people.

Courtesy and respect for the local population will provide you with excellent service and sincere smiles (but tips are never superfluous, don't forget, this is an element of etiquette and tradition). And most importantly, don't pay attention to annoying little things and let nothing and no one spoil your dream vacation. We deserved it. Would I dare to go on such trips again? Definitely yes!

Maybe someone will be inspired by my story, maybe, on the contrary, it will frighten someone, maybe someone lives by the principle of "what people will say". But life is one and no one will live it for you. We so often deny ourselves something, so often postpone something "for later". But "then" may not be. Life is one - live!! !


I wish everyone peace and wonderful, unforgettable journeys. If you have any questions, write, I will be happy to answer.

Translated automatically from Ukrainian. View original
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