He went to Odessa, and went to Kherson. Continuation

12 august 2021 Travel time: with 21 June 2021 on 05 July 2021
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First part here >>>

Why Odessa and Kherson are in it.

The city of Sen. Not exactly touristy. Not famous. Little known. But he's good! We went there to save money. It was the closest city to Zagreb by the sea. We had no other motives.

It is more than two thousand years old, but its current appearance was formed in the late Middle Ages.

Fortunately, the economic development of the city abruptly slowed down due to changes in traffic flows at the end of the 19th century, and the city froze in its gloomy, from the dark ages, state.

The main gate in the city wall, with which Senj is still surrounded

It's small, but there are a lot of streets.

I wandered around it every evening, trying to study it all, but I couldn't. When it seemed that, finally, there was a dead end, then from this dead end a street so wide went away that the guests of the apartments located on opposite sides of this street were clinking beer mugs above my head.

And the city is alive. Shops, restaurants, hotels, apartments and hostels. State offices and offices of firms. And all this in the houses of the 16th-19th centuries. And these houses look like buildings that are 400 years old should look like. It all resembled the center of Zaragoza, but only cooler.

In the evenings, I walked out of my home (Review about the hotel Apartments Valiza III and Apartments Valiza IV: Amazing stay) to visit a friend who lived in a 1670 house in the attic.

I walked towards him along the Narrow Street. . .

. . . turned onto the street Back of the Magistrate and climbed the stairs, which 350 years ago climbed to their first home, a ruddy fishmonger and his charming wife in a cap and apron.

In short, I am ready to talk about this city endlessly, but we must go further.

Right now. One more minute. There are 2-3 fountains in Senya. And women come to these fountains with buckets for water. Well, just like that one. In a cap and apron. Of course, today's women use this water only to wash the floors in their cafes and shops, but if you squint, time is rapidly flying back.

Beach. He is. Quite long, but not very comfortable. Stones in the sea. You have to swim in slippers. The water is unnaturally clear. Warm. There are no jellyfish. Souls are paid. 20 rub. The best part of the beach has a forest. So that you can sit on the grass under a shady tree. There are jet rentals. There is a floating inflatable trampoline.


First of all, this is Nehaj Castle, hanging over the city.

It is quite small, but 90 percent of European castles belonging to petty feudal lords were like that. To every baron and chevalier.

One of the most courageous commandants of the castle

We are used to vast, rich and impregnable castles from films, and Nehaj is even smaller than the donjon of some Vincennes castle. But he is formidable and evil.

Now it houses a museum. An unexpectedly rich collection of ancient weapons:

Gorgeous views from the roof:

You can dine in the main hall. Inexpensive. The most vivid impression on me was made by the toilet protruding from the wall above the abyss:

The view of the toilet from the outside is in the photo, where the castle is close-up. He's up there, a little to the right

Local history museum.

When we got there, the director of the museum was terribly happy, fussed, turned on the light and we felt like the heroes of the movie “City Zero”.

. . . “The bed of Attila, on which the leader of the Huns abused the Visigothic queen in front of his horde. ”. . . (Quote from the film. )

In fact, the exposition of the museum is very rich and interesting.


Only a small part of the catacombs is open to the public. But it is quite enough to understand how they were buried in them. There are ancient tablets and skulls.

Sometimes the padre from the cathedral opens the catacombs himself. But we were a little unlucky. Opened Madre from the museum.


During the Second World War, it was badly damaged. An American bomb fell on him. But carefully and correctly restored. The decoration inside is modestly rich. Concerts are held there, for some reason not at all popular with tourists. We went for soprano and organ. For free. Saint-sans, Bach and others

The very thing is to come to your senses after the beach, libations and other outrages. There were many spectators. 14 people. Including us.

A cross on a friend's head – that doesn't make sense he got so excited. This is a band-aid that hides the mark of a head-butt on the low ceiling of his attic

Incomprehensible letters are visible on the benches. This is a Glagolitic. The fact is that the Sen region, unlike its neighbors who use the Latin and Cyrillic alphabets, used and, in limited quantities, still uses the Glagolitic alphabet. Why is this the topic of a long and tedious article. It's not here and it's not now.

Places nearby.

Island of Krk.

In general, Croats are very stingy with vowels. There are a lot of words like Krk. Once we were sitting in a restaurant and my friend said that he could not drink anymore and asked me to speak English to the waiter to bring a cork from an unfinished bottle. I replied that I did not know how the cork would be in English and suggested that he ask for the prbk. Surprisingly, but the waiters understood (although the cork in Croatian does not sound like that). And my friend took a prbk from them, plugged his btlka and we left. By the way, the Croatian language is intuitive. Sometimes Croats who don't know English asked me to switch to Russian. And they understood. Well, here's an example. The Croatian sausage in dough, my children's favorite, sounds like horseradish in dough. I even managed to watch the news on TV. Sometimes he even laughed to tears. For example, the respectable Chancellor of Germany Angela Merkel in the Croatian version sounds like “German stationery”.

I got distracted.

The island of Krk. He is very close. I sailed to it on a jet, but it's better to buy a ticket for such a vessel.

The people in this boat sit astride, like, a saddle. I think it's not very convenient

It costs about one and a half thousand rubles (550 gr. ), You will be taken to the city of Bashka.

They will let you walk there for a couple of hours, and then to Vela Luka beach.

There are still 3-4 hours and back.


The city of Senya's age. But very touristy. There is no veil of antiquity. Everything has been restored to the state of Disneyland.

To plasticity. Didn't like it.

Vela Luka beach. Long enough. Small pebble. It is isolated from everything and everyone by mountains and for this reason is the most romantic beach in Croatia. That's noticeable. No details.

We all watched Eagle and Tails. Good transmission. And they give out loot. Why is TurPravda worse? No worse. Better.

In short. On the Vela Luka beach you will see a sign to the nudist beach.

Go in the indicated direction for 30 steps and in the thorns (if you're lucky) you will find a bottle of Schweppes, where we put 100 kuni.

When you pick up a bottle, don't stop. Move on. There will be many interesting things. It's good there.

We were lucky with transport to Krk. I managed to charm a kind woman - the shipowner. We talked. She turned out to be a fan of Gojko Mitic. He likes me too. They complained that today's youth no longer knows who was the most extreme Chingachgook of all times and peoples. And who had the biggest snake.

As a result, a decent woman gave us a small eight-seater boat with a skipper at our disposal, and we could use it completely at our discretion.

And part of our crew is located like this:


A fairly large city not far from Senya. You can wander, shop.

But everything is a little vain. The city was remembered for its chic, imposing promenade - a boulevard along the beach. It's nice to take a leisurely walk under the shade of the trees. The following weather station has been preserved there since the beginning of the 20th century:

Lukovo beach.

All the Croats I met advised me to go there. Like, it's gorgeous. There is a blue flag. Yes, well, in Fig. Just a long, semi-nudist beach. The same stones. The village is small. There is only one restaurant. But the road there is hellish trash. At the beginning of the descent, I noticed the ban on the movement of campers and trailers. At first I didn't understand why. When we started the descent, I understood immediately. The road is so narrow that two compact cars can hardly pass there. And there are no fences.

And we were in a wide Mercedes.

Fortunately, there were no oncoming cars. And I don’t even know how we would turn out there. There are no travel pockets. The descent angle is very steep. The cliff is such that the bottom is not visible.

It's not worth it. I do not advise.

Plitvice Lakes.

This must be. Nature, mother her, and all that. I will not write about it because all this is already much better described before me by true connoisseurs of nature, which I am not.

It is a pity that the entire route cannot be sailed on such ships. But still they save power

You have to buy a ticket there via the Internet, but we didn’t bother and asked our hostess to do it. It's easier.

These touching signs remind of those who drowned among all this beauty. By the way, because of such drowned people, it is strictly forbidden to swim in the lakes

When we went back, our friend's navigator failed. We drove for a long time. On a whim. A very long time. And then suddenly my daughter squeaked from the back seat: "Are we going to Zagreb? ". It turned out that her navigator worked all the way. And she didn't tell us about it because we didn't ask her.

Indeed, we arrived almost to Zagreb. But they didn't get upset. The fact is that this hook gave us the opportunity to calmly consider the country. Including we dined in the city of Karlovac. Beautiful city. Cosy. Good. But only in the nineties there were fierce battles and the city was badly destroyed. Now it doesn't remind me of anything at all. Nothing at all. Ay! Abkhazians! Who has been whining and living in devastation for 25 years, referring to the consequences of the war? BUT? The devastation is in your head.

That's probably all.

As an afterword, a few facts and cases from Croatian and Senj life.

If Turkey is a cat country, then Croatia is definitely a dog country.

This restaurant promotional poster shows the permission for dogs to enter this restaurant.

Posters with similar permissions are posted on beaches and at the entrance to shops. The variegated Barbos, to our joy, consider themselves a full-fledged part of society in this country.


A sketch from life. I went to sit on a bench on the pier. Smoke, look at the views of Senya. Next to me sat a very old and very skinned grandfather. In shabby pants. A shirt with holes. In worn boots. And he sat on a dirty, homemade pillow. After some time, he said goodbye, got up and, suddenly bending down, began to collect cigarette butts scattered in a small amount next to the bench. I immediately offered him a couple of cigarettes. He said he didn't smoke, picked up the cigarette butts and took them to the bin. Here is the grandfather! This is real, not hysterical patriotism. Yes. Grandpa doesn't give a damn about how he looks. But he cares about his hometown.


In Senj, I saw car and motorcycle plates mainly from Scandinavia, Austria, Germany and Eastern Europe. Lots of Ukrainians. Suddenly I saw several cars from Spain. To be honest, I didn’t understand why the pepper from the sea to the sea was so far away.

And this is a wonderful miracle - a Bentley with Copenhagen license plates in Crikvenica:

It just can't be. This is nonsense. I know Denmark. A lot connects me with this country. And I know for sure that such a car is not possible in Denmark. The billionaire, the richest man in Denmark, Haldur Topsø , drove a much more modest car. It's just that the Bentley was too expensive for him.


If you are a tea lover, then take it with you. Even in large supermarkets, the choice of black tea is negligible.

Specifically, only Earl Grey. Why so - I do not know.

And finally. . .

Already upon arrival, at Sheremetyevo, my friend's blonde was the first to go to passport control. I went into the cabin. We are waiting. And there were a lot of flights. And suddenly she turned in our direction and in a capricious voice meowed loudly - Saaaashshshshaaa! Here a young man in uniform is interested in what country we flew from?

The friend immediately reacted, and so that the border guards did not hear, but the people around him yelled in response: "Do I know? I'll ask the pilot now. " He brought the phone to his ear and said: "Mikhalych! Where did you bring us from? ".

The people didn't whine. The people tensed up and began to crawl.

Translated automatically from Russian. View original
To add or remove photos in a story, go to album of this story
Главные  ворота в городской стене, коей Сень окружен до сих пор.
Один из самых отважных комендантов замка.
Вид туалета снаружи есть на фото , где замок крупным планом. Он там сверху, немного правее.
Крест на башке друга  - это не в смысле он так возоцерковился. Это пластырь, скрывающий след от удара об низкий потолок его мансарды.
Народ в этом плавсредстве сидит верхом на, типа, седле. Думаю это не очень удобно.
Жаль, что весь маршрут нельзя проплыть на таких кораблях. Но все равно они силы экономят.
Вот такие трогательные таблички напоминают о тех , кто утоп среди всей этой красоты. Кстати из за таких вот утоплых, купаться в озерах категорически запрещено.
Г. Башка.
Убранство храма в Сени.
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