Lyubech and its unsolved mysteries
The fact that we were lucky enough to get into this ancient Slavic city by chance is a great success for us, an unexpected adventure, a wonderful discovery. We did not expect anything like this at all, and the events of this day amazed us so much that I simply have to share them with you as soon as possible and advise you to come here and try to unravel the secrets of this ancient city yourself.
The cross on the mountain at the site of the monastery
So, in order. We got up at 5 am to go mushroom picking. In total, we were on the road for 12 hours, and every hour was a pleasant experience, except for the roads. Having gathered chanterelles for dinner near Slavutych, we decided to go to Slavutych to see the city and go shopping. It was still early, and we thought that it was somehow not interesting to go home, and that another interesting sight was hiding nearby, where we were going to drop in and take a look with one eye. And we decided that the time has come - we need to visit Lyubech.
The Church of the Transfiguration of the Savior – the tomb of the Miloradovichi small>
I will not remind you of a school history course, but Kyiv, Chernihiv, Lyubech and some other cities were once considered the most important in Kievan Rus, rich and famous cities. They were built not from a floundering bay, but in the right places, very picturesque and I’m not afraid of this expression - the right energy points. Of course, I want to go and check. And there is terribly little information on the network and it only causes disappointment. We did not expect much from this visit, many historical sights of the city have been lost. But, my friends, the city itself is alive and is still full of historical secrets and mystical events.
View from Castle Hill
And what magnificent landscapes are here! The views are amazing, near the Dnieper with a lot of beaches, its "blue lakes" and not expensive real estate. I really want to stay to live, and many do so, buying up houses in this cozy, quiet and lost among the forests and secrets of the ancient city, which is now called just a town.
The idea of one of the former presidents to make a modern tourist center like Baturin here was apparently forgotten along with him, so no one even invests in roads here, it is very, very hard and long to drive from Slavutych along a completely broken road (I recommend a jeep for this or tank). The direct road Chernihiv - Lyubech also did not particularly please, there are a lot of pieces of concrete slabs with their unpleasant joints. Therefore, expect that you will drive longer than the maps on the network show. But the views are beautiful (you drive slowly and admire) and there are mushroom forests all around (and we are envious of a lot of people with buckets full of mushrooms along the roadsides). In general, these obstacles in the form of roads are worth overcoming and devoting a day to Lyubech.
Roads. . . I thought it was an ancient legacy, but it turns out to be post-war. . . whoever could guess?
But! The first secret (I will reveal it to you) is that you need to meet the very person who will guide you and show you everything that is worth seeing and reveal many secrets to you, because you yourself can not do it. The maximum that you can do is to trample in one place and enjoy one of the views from the mountain. Lyubech doesn’t reveal its secrets so easily…
We were lucky, we met Stanislav (even the name of the person is correct, Slavic). Stanislav is a historian, archaeologist, author of several historical books on the history of Kievan Rus, a patriot of Lyubech and just an interesting person. The excursions that he conducts are not some boring history lesson, but live communication with immersion in the environment, positive and unforgettable. At the same time, the excursion, like a good walk, is tuned specifically for you, with an understanding of what interests you. For example, in the summer, not only a tour of antiquities, but he will show you where to swim (you need to know how to get there and where). In the fall, they can also arrange a trip for mushrooms. All this can be done in one day. Where else can you find such an opportunity to spend your weekend in an interesting, varied and enjoyable way?
Tempting paths
After gathering a few random visitors who sadly wandered around the former Miloradovichi estate, Stanislav showed us various interesting places that we ourselves would never have found, even asking the locals. It seemed to me useless to call the museum and try to sign up for a tour there, at least some did not succeed. A born tour guide, lives right in a historical place and if you're lucky, you'll meet. And if you don’t want to let everything go to the will of fate and not get lost in the historical secrets of Lyubech, then I recommend writing down his phone number (0937961524), call and arrange an excursion.
What is left of the estate of the Counts Miloradoviches
So, the inspection of the Miloradovichi estate and the park nearby did not take much time. But, it's good that Stanislav showed us old photographs of the places that we visited, and we compared it with what we have and realized where our feet are. Some photos came to him from abroad, when the descendants of those who lived in Lyubech came to the city and we can safely say that they are rare.
Oleg and Igor. Very accurate monument
In the park (and around the city) there are interesting sculptures dedicated to prominent figures and events of Lyubech. Some are not at all simple, with their own secrets, which Stanislav will dedicate you to.
A very strange monument to Anthony of the Caves
Then we approached the view from the mountain from the former estate of the Miloradoviches and got stuck.
View of the Dnieper and Belarus. . . and a small pond below. . . also with my secrets
No photographs convey the beauty of the view and the feeling that you experience when looking at these expanses, the Dnieper and its oxbows, meadows, forests. Inspiration and at the same time inexpressible peace, you must feel it yourself.
At the same time, another secret was revealed to us. It turned out that the observation deck is located directly above the cave of St. Anthony of the Caves, "the head of all Russian monks", the founder of the Kiev-Pechersk monastery, the creator of caves both there and in Chernigov (near the Trinity-Ilyinsky monastery). It turned out that Anthony was from Lyubech, not Chernigov. And it was here that he dug his first small monastic cave with a beautiful view. The place was chosen with great taste and understanding. There is simply no strength to leave, it's so good here.
The right place is beautiful and positively energetic
Belarus is already visible beyond the Dnieper and you can even see the same sarcophagus on the horizon (I recommend taking binoculars). It is believed that Anthony saved Chernihiv from that same deadly cloud that bypassed the ancient city (in Chernihiv there is really a strange wind rose). But Antony also saved his native Lyubech. Nothing got here either, the city is ecologically clean. Not for nothing, wealthy and famous people not only from Kyiv and Chernigov have houses and dachas (bought for little money) here. Well, I digress... I also wanted to say a few words about the views. It is important that the sunsets here are magically beautiful, so you need to spend the whole day here and be sure to be on one of the mountains at sunset and enjoy an unforgettable sight. Yes, and photo shoots here will be excellent.
The stoneware looks good, which is very nice
Kamyanitsa Polubotka. It also has secrets associated with it. It turns out that she is named after the wrong person, who, in theory, should have been named. Renamed. And what is written about it, what it is for, is also not true... It is only true that there are few such stone houses left in Ukraine (I do not count Polish stone houses in Lvov and next to it). In general, all questions to Stanislav, I will not reveal secrets so that you have a reason to come to this quest and find out everything yourself.
Now, if you look through the window! I love cellars!
The interior is in the style of fashionable minimalism, but the chandelier is rich! Ancient! Cool cellar
Next, we moved to a viewing place on another mountain, where there was St. Anthony's monastery. Unfortunately, only the cross marking the site of the monastery remained. But, there is a great view. And not only.
Cross on the site of the monastery with a special mark
This is a mystical place. A few years ago, black archaeologists unearthed two impressive tombstones. They were strewn with coins, which is why they were found under a layer of earth. They were lifted up and able to read the inscriptions. It turned out it was not easy. More secrets. I won't reveal them, but I'll just say this. Women who want family happiness and a long joyful life should definitely visit this place and leave coins (for commemoration) on them.
Two tombstones on which you need to put coins for happiness
I am generally an agnostic, but I believe in such things because I was convinced that they work. For example, in the 9th century Chernigov Church of Paraskeva Pyatnitsa there is a stone (of desires). If you go around the church three times clockwise and touch this stone and wish strongly, you will definitely get married. Checked on myself, relatives and girlfriends. Works. And this is such a mystical place. And a strange coincidence… one of the tombstones is of a young woman, Praskovya (Paraskeva). In general, I will not reveal more secrets, you must do everything yourself (come, pray and leave coins), and I wish you health and happiness.
Many interesting stories took place in this place, not only mystical, but also funny. And here, wild garlic and champignons grow in season... well, what a cutie... no one needs champignons, because there are forests full of mushrooms nearby.
Path to the Castle Hill
Castle Hill. Where did the discord of the Russian land come from. . . Here our ancient Kiev princes got together and did things, gave their sons and grandsons allotments, and if there was not enough, then they divided someone else's. Well, classic. Here, too, there is something to see, there are also little intriguing secrets (some are no longer historical, but political).
Castle Hill and a monument on it
The princes that divided the land. . . but how did they divide it? Big, big secret
By the way, Bald Mountain (with its secrets) is visible from Castle Hill. She became popular among the pagans. They come for their new year (spring solstice, ides of March) and celebrate - they sing and dance in ancient Slavic clothes. And if you want, you can join them.
Bald Mountain - a favorite place of the pagans
And if you don’t have time to “break away” in March, then you can also come to Ivan Kupala - a big holiday with folk festivals is held in the city.
Very elegant Empire style, not common for provincial Ukrainian churches
Of the seven churches that were in Lyubech by the second half of the 19th century, not many remained - only one. The Church of the Transfiguration of the Savior is hard to miss. The spectacular style makes it look like a cathedral, proud and worthy of being the burial place of the Counts Miloradovichi. Why the church is the only one that has been preserved is also a mystery that can be learned from a knowledgeable person (I left the coordinates).
Well, I don’t know about all the secrets either, we didn’t have time to visit all the interesting places because of the mushrooms, but this is a reason to come again - the secrets are still waiting for us.
Arrowheads. . . different. Why? You will learn from historical literature or if you come to Lubech
By the way, we managed to touch the history. Just to touch. People find ancient gizmos (kopanki so to speak). Arrowheads, amulets, pendants, earrings, rings, coins. It is so wonderful to hold in your hand something completely historical, which belonged to the people of Kievan Rus. Not just to see as in a museum, but to touch and feel the affinity, continuity from the past and hope for the future. It's great when history helps to realize ourselves, to understand who we are and who we will be, where our land came from...
Pictures are not transmitted, you need to see or write pictures here
In general, I highly recommend visiting Lyubech. I have great hopes that our people in power will wake up and understand what riches we have. Of course, this cannot be stolen and sold, but you can use it for the benefit of everyone and your glory. The city is 1100 years old, it is real, not a remake, everything here breathes history, help a little, create a tourist center and the money from tourism will help the revival of Lyubech. Everything is here - antiquities, energy, and resort moments (wonderful nature). Thanks to the Chernihiv Mayor for helping to restore Anthony's Cave a little. But more is needed. . . It is necessary that Kyiv (our government) also remembers Lyubech, which was mentioned in the "Tale of Bygone Years" along with Kyiv and Chernigov. We need to revive our historical places so that people remember and be proud and understand that we are and we will be!
At this stage, we would have nowhere to even buy a magnet, in memory of the trip. Thanks to Stanislav, he not only took care of us and entertained us, but also solved our problem: our refrigerator is happy to receive another premium magnet (actually three) on his broad chest, in memory of a trip to the ancient, mysterious and unique Lyubech.
I recommend taking comfortable shoes, binoculars and cash (including coins) for the trip. There is only one ATM, there are shops, but not network ones, and I don’t know what they sell there. Better be ready to travel. You can visit Chernigov and Lyubech in two days off. I think that you will have many impressions, and you will remember the trip for a long time and even want to return again.
