FKK road trip to Croatia - part 1
A WARNING! This material talks about naturism / nudism. Contrary to the opinion of many "experts", naturism / nudism is just a healthy, active family vacation for mentally normal, physically active and intelligent people. Nudism has nothing to do with either pornography or erotica. Also, it has nothing to do with voyeurism, exhibitionism, homosexuality, group sex, pedophilia and other sexual perversions. Simply, we are all born without clothes, so for a normal person, a naked body in itself is not a sexual object, and nudity is the most natural state of the body. In this regard, I kindly ask you: if you are a strawberry lover, you should not read this article: there is nothing here that could interest you. Also, a big request to those who are “not brought up like that”, as well as to religious fanatics, puritans, various lovers of morality and other “champions of morality” - do not read this material and do not leave your comments here - all moralizing, moralizing, as well as obscene comments will be mercilessly removed! YOU ARE NOT WELCOME HERE. For the rest - welcome to the article. A LITTLE ABOUT MYSELF I myself am not an "ideological naturist" and I do not want to "call and agitate" anyone. However, in my life I profess the principle - to wear clothes only where it is necessary for hygienic or moral and ethical reasons, and to be, if possible, without it where it is permissible. In general, I think that the best bathing suit is its complete absence. Therefore, for many years I prefer to sunbathe and swim exclusively on a nudist beach (especially since I don’t have to go far to it - Serebryany Bor is next to my house - an hour of leisurely cycling). For the same reason, while on vacation in other cities and countries, I always try to find beaches where being in a “natural” form is not forbidden. And to go to a real FKK resort (I don’t like the word “nudism”, so hereinafter I prefer to use the German abbreviation “FKK” - Frei Kö rper Kultur) - this was my old dream. Spend two weeks in pleasant relaxation, in good company, without burdening yourself with unnecessary conventions in the form of beach cabins, constant dressing and wet rags on your body - what could be better? That is why it was decided to go to Croatia - the European center of the FKK supporters. It was decided to go by car in order to take everything you need for a good rest, as well as visit several FKK resorts at once and, if possible, have time to live in some of them for some time. However, first things first. WHAT IS FKK RESORT? Croatia, if anyone does not know, has long been considered a favorite destination for fans of FKK-holidays. In this country, for many years, the largest and most famous FKK-resorts in Europe have been welcoming guests from all over the world - Koversada (g. Vrsar), Solaris (Porec) and Valalta (Rovinj). In addition to these, there are also a huge number of smaller and lesser-known FKK resorts, FKK campsites, and just FKK beaches. As a rule, an ordinary FKK resort is located at a distance from settlements. Immediately after the barrier and the entrance gate, a rather long road begins, fenced with a fence. This is how all the Croatian FKK resorts that we visited are arranged: apparently, this was done in order to immediately weed out the “leftist” people who are trying to break through here to satisfy their unhealthy desires. At the end of the road there is a sign meaning "leave your clothes, everyone who enters here" (as well as cameras and unhealthy inclinations): further is the NU-zone. It is strictly forbidden to be in clothes, peeping and photography. Looking ahead, I’ll say that you can still take pictures, but be careful - so that, if possible, other vacationers do not get into the frame - not everyone wants to show off later on sites for perverts. And, of course, if one of the vacationers asks you to stop shooting, it’s better not to conflict and stop. All three Croatian FKK resorts that we managed to visit are not just a campsite, a beach or a hotel - this is a huge park: several hectares of territory, fenced from prying eyes and "left" people with natural and artificial barriers. Many beaches, a huge number of sports grounds, cafes and bars, in addition, alleys, green meadows, forest areas, flower beds, playgrounds. There are also bungalows, multi-room apartments, houses for 2... 3 families, as well as just sites for placing a tent or camper. And all over this vast territory they walk, sunbathe and swim, ride bicycles and roller skates, go in for sports: they play volleyball and badminton, golf and petanque, chess and dominoes, they just sit on benches and deck chairs, hundreds of naked people read and chat - of both sexes, different builds and different ages. The dress code on the territory is strictly observed; the only clothing is the complete absence of it. . People in swimming trunks, swimsuits or other clothing may simply be politely asked to either undress or leave the resort so as not to embarrass others. Only service personnel are wearing clothes here: their work is such that they can be immediately distinguished by their uniforms. If you do meet one of the vacationers in clothes, then most likely you will meet him only in the evening on the road leading to the main gate (which means the person is going to hang out in the city) or on the path leading to the store or dining room. The resort usually has one or more shops and a dining room where vacationers have breakfast and dinner. And these are the only places where you definitely need to be dressed. In other cases, only a sports uniform is usually allowed, but only on sports grounds, which is understandable in principle - playing football or volleyball naked is simply unsafe. In any case, this is how it is customary in Koversad and Solaris. I heard that in the French "Cap d'Ag" entrance to the store without clothes is allowed, and in "Hedonism", in Jamaica, the lack of clothes is allowed in the dining room, but I was not there - I can neither confirm nor deny. On the roads of the resort you can drive a car, but not everywhere, and the speed is limited - on the main road - no more than 20 km / h, on the rest (where cars can still be driven) - no more than 10. Moreover, there are strict restrictions on the use of cars on the territory: from 22.00 to 08.00 it is forbidden not only to drive a car, but even just start the engine. In short, an ordinary holiday home, but with a dress code: dress code - NUDE. And one more rule has appeared recently: in order to avoid any debauchery and related excesses, Croatian FKK resorts DO NOT ACCEPT single guests - only families with children, or just M + F couples. CHARGES ON THE ROAD. The final and irrevocable decision on the trip was made in the winter, and preparations for the road began even then. First of all, places were booked at two resorts: Solaris (for the first week) and Koversada (for the second week). On a one-way road (about 3000 km. ) expected to spend about three days. The path ran through Russia, Ukraine, Hungary and, of course, Croatia (Our goal is the Istrian peninsula, located on the western coast of the country). Of all the above countries, only Hungary is included in the Schengen zone, therefore, to travel through it, you must have a Schengen visa in your passport. Visas were issued through a tour operator - it's easier that way. Since the entry into the Schengen zone was two-time (the road "there" through Hungary and "back" through it), then visas were ordered two-time: they are much cheaper than reusable ones. However, as we were later told, the Hungarian embassy always has a mess with documents and the “ambassadors” can mess something up. This is how it turned out for us: Svetlana was given a two-entry visa (as it should have been), and I got a multiple-entry one. In other words, for the same money they gave me a “more expensive product”. It would seem that one can only rejoice, but no: on the way back, this played a cruel joke on us (but more on that later). Therefore, I strongly advise all road travelers: before the trip, check everything thoroughly. What else is needed? To drive in Hungary you need an International Driving Permit (hereinafter IDL). The IDL is a small book, which is, in fact, a translation of your driver's license into the main languages (there is English German, Chinese, it seems Arabic and some others). By itself, an IDP is not an independent document and is not valid without a driver's license, but you need to have it with you to travel around Europe. The travel agent who dealt with us literally said the following about this: “For the entire trip, you may never be asked for your IDL. But if you come across a harmful Hungarian traffic cop, and even had a fight with his wife in the morning, and besides, if, God forbid, during the Hungarian uprising of 1956, a Soviet tank crushed his grandfather... You can fly in full - up to the withdrawal of a driver's license and evacuation car to the impound lot. Looking ahead, I’ll say that for the whole trip I didn’t even take my IDP out of my bag: they never asked him. An IDP is issued in some departments of the traffic police (there are two in Moscow: for residents of the north and south - the coordinates can be found via the Internet). For registration, you just need to come to the traffic police department with all your driver's documents - everything will be explained there. It costs, it seems, 1000 rubles. This will take no more than two hours (again, it depends on the queues - probably, there will be more people closer to the holiday season). So. Hotels are paid for, visas are affixed in foreign passports, there is an IDP. Now we equip the car. Here is a list of what we had to take with us: - Two suitcases (bags) with things - my things and Svetlana's things; - Swimming accessories (2 pairs of fins, 2 masks and snorkels, 2 wetsuits); - Roller Skates; - A large tent for four (there are two of us, but we are big people). This is to spend the night on the road if there is no hotel; - Inflatable mattress (in "working condition" 2200x2500) - according to the size of the tent. On it you can sleep in a tent and swim in the sea; - Inflatable pillows for sleeping in a tent on an air mattress (well, this is a trifle); - Sleeping bags (2 pcs. ) - what the weather will be on the way - no one will predict; - The minimum set of tools in case of car repair on the road (thank God it was not useful); - Technological fluids (fuels and lubricants) for cars and bicycles: oil for topping up (1 l), coolant (1 l. ), brake fluid (0.5 l. ), glass washer (5 l. ), grease type grease ( 0.5 l. ), grease for bicycle chains (200 ml. ); - Bicycles (2 pcs. ); - A set of tools for assembling and repairing bicycles. All this had to be placed in a NISSAN NOTE car - anyone who imagines the size of this car and especially its trunk will understand. Oddly enough, but everything (except for bicycles, of course) fell into my small trunk, although when packing I had to “play Tetris” a bit, combining it with various accommodation options. Bicycles were originally planned to be placed on the roof rack of the car. For this task, arch-crossbars were purchased and installed on the roof (I was looking for specially streamlined aerodynamic arches) and mounts for transporting bicycles on the roof. However, after some experimentation, consultations of "experienced bike tourists" and test rides for various distances, it was decided to put the bikes in the salon. And the point here is not that there was a lack of confidence in this method of transportation: the holders themselves are excellent - both bikes are attached very securely - no reeling, knocking and pitching. But still, I didn’t want to carry them on the roof of a car for almost 3.000 kilometers - wind noise in the spokes, air resistance and, as a result, increased gas mileage. In addition, the carrier manufacturer does not recommend driving faster than 130 km/h with bicycles on the roof. In addition - road dust, precipitation and other pollution. In connection with all the above arguments, we came to the conclusion that this method of transportation (on the roof) is more suitable for relatively short distances - up to 1000 km. The task arose - how to place bicycles in the car? I had to thoroughly disassemble them: the wheels, wings, saddles, pedals, mirrors and lights were removed. From bicycles there were only frames with front forks. They managed to be placed on a folded back sofa (since only 2 people were driving, rear seats were not needed). To prevent damage to the interior upholstery, and the bikes themselves, they were lined with foam, rewound with plastic wrap and tape, and all sharp corners were wrapped with rags. The wheels and fenders were placed standing up, on the floor behind the backs of the front seats. Every little thing was stuffed into free holes between the main cargo. I decided not to remove the luggage racks installed on the roof - as it turned out later, this was the right decision. Of course, you could take bike racks with you - they could lie in the salon, and then they would come in handy during a short move from one resort to another. Actually, it was also planned to buy a small inflatable boat specifically for this trip, but some financial difficulties (in the spring I had to pay a decent amount for the repair of a motorcycle, but that's a completely different story) did not allow this. Well, okay - anyway, I think it would not fit in the car, and a huge air mattress completely replaced it. Friends and colleagues advised me to buy a GPS navigator: “You will get lost without it, especially in Ukraine. ” But then again - the financial situation did not allow such expenses, however, as the further development of events showed, we managed without it: the atlas of European highways was quite enough (price - 200 rubles). That's like everything. The start was scheduled for Friday evening straight from work. ROAD. So, having met with Svetlana in the evening after work, we set off. We left Moscow along the Kiev highway, hoping to spend the night in the evening where the sunset would catch us. On Saturday, by noon, it was planned to cross the Russian-Ukrainian border, and for the rest of Saturday, drive through most of Ukraine. Then, having spent the night from Saturday to Sunday somewhere in the region of Lvov, by Sunday noon, enter Hungary. One more night, from Sunday to Monday, spend on its western border, after which, in the middle of the day on Monday, enter the Solaris boarding house. Well, as always, "It was smooth on paper, but they forgot about the ravines. " The first thing that made adjustments to our plans was the traffic jams in Moscow on Friday: after leaving the city, only about 21.00, we dragged along the Kiev highway for a long time at a speed of no more than 20 km / h. With the sunset, the traffic became more lively and I finally managed to make the first hundred kilometers from Moscow. I don’t like to travel at night, so we didn’t go far that day - at about one in the morning we had to stay at a hotel near Kaluga. Overnight at the hotel cost us about 2200 rubles for two - quite acceptable. The hotel was not the best, but quite clean, moreover, the toilet and shower were in the room, not at the end of the corridor. The next day, Saturday, waking up at about 7 am, we continued on our way. In the morning it was decided not to waste time on breakfast, but to eat somewhere on the road. The road towards Kyiv is normal and very informative: for all the time we have never looked at the map - everywhere there are signs “Kyiv - there, Kyiv - here”, so there was no need to get lost. We arrived at the Russian border in the afternoon (about 2 p. m. ) and then we stood up for a while - the line to cross the border stretched for at least 2 kilometers. However, the sun was going down and it became clear that on this day we would not reach Kyiv. I had to spend the night in a hotel, about 200 km before reaching the Ukrainian capital. It was raining in the morning, but moving west, around 10 am, we managed to escape from it and enter the sunny weather zone. All Sunday we drove through Ukraine. Yes - on the map it seemed much smaller to me. When planning a trip, we assumed a tour of the main sights of the city of Kyiv. But life made its own adjustments - of course, there was no time for this - we quickly drove through the city. Since we did not have a detailed map of Kyiv, we had to wander around the streets a bit in search of the road to Lviv. On the way out of the city we were stopped by GAI officers - they just checked the documents. At the same time, they were very friendly and smiling. We wished you a happy journey, leaving a very pleasant impression of yourself. What else pleased on Ukrainian roads is that everywhere there is a warning that video control is working on the track. Leaving the capital, we headed towards Lviv, but then I made a mistake, deciding to shorten the route: the road to Lviv on the map seemed too long to me, and I decided to take a shortcut along secondary roads: Zhytomyr - Khmelnitsky - Ternopil. To all autotravelers, never do this, even if the main road looks longer on the map. On the map, all roads are shown very conditionally. Therefore, even if the secondary road seems shorter, then remember that any bends are never marked on it - and, unlike the main roads, which they try to lay as straight as possible, tearing off the hills and filling up the ravines, the secondary roads are laid in such a way that every mound and every they go around the depression in the terrain in the most incredible zigzags. So in the end, the path along the secondary road will be much longer. Well, the quality of coverage on the main and secondary highways, of course, is incomparable. As a result of my wrong decision, a lot of extra kilometers were rolled and a lot of time wasted. . And the Ternopil-Stryi section (a little over 200 km) had to be driven at an average speed of 30 km/h - not only did the path go through some kind of pass, but the quality of the road was such that even huge trucks tried to drive with the utmost care. And I, with my "type of sports" suspension, was driving and thinking - "everything, the next bump on the road will be the last for our car. " However, nothing - the car survived, but my body could not stand it: in the evening, between Stryi and Uzhgorod, it was completely baked and, grossly violating the rules, got hooked by the local traffic cops (accidentally leaving the solid marking line). After long conversations and whining on my part, they let me go (of course, not for free - for a bribe). What is interesting: having received the money “past the cashier”, the road guards immediately changed their anger to mercy and kindly warned that there were more posts ahead, strongly advised not to go further in such a broken state, but to spend the night in a hotel. They even gave me the address of the hotel. Another night passed on Ukrainian soil. The hotel was terrible - the “conveniences” at the end of the corridor, not quite clean and very cold: the weather changed - it got very cold, and the terrain was already beginning to be mountainous, with all the consequences - high humidity, wind, fog. And the rain caught up with us again. This is where sleeping bags came in handy - if they had not taken them with them, then it is quite possible that in the morning two blue-colored corpses would have been carried out of the hotel room. They reached the Ukrainian-Hungarian border only by noon on Monday. The wait was long, but not the same as at the Russia-Ukraine border: instead of five hours, it was only two and a half. Hungarian road frankly pleased - an excellent track with smooth asphalt. And soon we generally went to the Balaton autobahn - an excellent wide highway that runs through the whole country. The speed on it is generally unlimited - you can squeeze everything out of the car that it is capable of: the road is perfectly flat and visible for several kilometers ahead. There are only two lanes on the road in each direction, but the width of the lanes is very large - much more than the standard three meters. No settlements on the way, no intersections and traffic lights - all intersections with other roads - on bridges and under bridges. There are even bridges for wild animals: a bridge passes over the road, on which a forest is planted - bushes and trees grow: so that forest inhabitants can cross the road along the “forest bridge”. The exits from the road to secondary directions are marked with signs as far as 3 kilometers. Since stopping and parking are prohibited on expressways, there are many special places for recreation along the road. The exits to these places are also marked with a corresponding sign and also 3 km from the beginning of the branch. On these "rest islands" there are parking lots for cars (separately for cars and separately for buses and large trucks). There are also tables and benches, as well as "sanitary houses", where there is a toilet, washbasins with soap and even a shower. There is also a place where you can put up a tent. Regarding questions like “at whose expense is this banquet? ”. Once on the autobahn, you must buy a road map at the nearest gas station. They are different - for a month, for a week, or for several days. We bought the cheapest one - for three days, its price seems to be 8 Euros. It is understood that by purchasing this card, you can use the autobahn with all its "applications". In principle, no one forces you to buy it, but, as we were told, the local traffic police have the right to stop the car and check if you have a card. They can also check it at the border. Although, for all the time of the journey, no one has checked it. In the capital of the country - Budapest, I had to stray a little. But, having driven 2 or 3 times in one place, taxiing by mistake to the city of Szekesfehervar, we finally found the exit to the highway, and by the evening we crossed the border between Hungary and Croatia. Controlling this border took us about the same amount of time as it took me to write this paragraph. Just "hello, goodbye, drive on. " In general, as this road showed, the farther from the Motherland, the shorter the procedure for crossing the border. So, we continued to move west - where the road rested against the horizon, the sun was quickly setting, and we tried to catch up with it. . We drove the last kilometers already late at night, purely on adrenaline: there was no strength for anything. I only remember endless kilometers of mountain roads, rocks in the headlights, cars overtaking us, checkpoints with barriers where we were charged for the passage of the next section of the road, and tunnels, tunnels... At the end point of our journey - the city of Porec, we We got in around 3 am. The only thing left was to find the Solaris FKK resort. They started asking around. It is clear that at 3 o'clock in the morning there are not so many passers-by, and those few who are still roaming the streets, as a rule, are in such a state that they cannot sensibly tell the way. In the end, we managed to find out that Solaris is not located in the city itself, but closer to the village of Novigrad and we have to go to it about 15 more km to the north. At 4 o'clock in the morning we drove up to the Solaris barrier. SOLARIS. The Guardian of the Gate who met us at the entrance was very surprised to see two idiots who made a 3000-kilometer journey in a small car. After examining our vouchers, he said that they were actually waiting for us in the morning and that at such a time it was generally impossible to enter the resort by car. But it's okay, since you've already arrived and are so tired, don't kick you out. Drive to the nearest parking lot, park your car, don’t ride anywhere else and don’t make noise, but quietly step into your apartment. I must say that we no longer had any desire to ride and make noise: we only had the strength to park the car and crawl to the bed. Looking ahead a little, I’ll say right away that, having put my car in the parking lot, over the next week I didn’t move it anymore - after such a road I didn’t want to drive at all. In the morning, I was finally able to consider where we had arrived. Our first morning in Solaris turned out to be cool and rainy: up to this point, moving west, we always managed to escape from the rain, but then he still caught up with us. While Svetlana, to the sound of drops on the windowsill, was watching her morning dreams, I quietly packed my bike and went to reconnoiter. I didn’t want to ride in clothes - in the rain it would get wet, and I would quickly freeze, and without it it would also be cold. I found an alternative - I went in a wetsuit - it turned out to be very comfortable - the best option for rainy weather: wet, but not cold. In about 40 minutes I traveled around and examined the entire resort and surroundings and studied the local geography. On the map here - http://maps. google. ru/? ll=45.287418. 13.587513&spn=0.016878. 0.045276&t=h&vpsrc=6&z=15 - Solaris resort, like all FKK resorts, is located at a distance from the main settlements. A fairly long road through farmland leads to the entrance gate. Like all resorts of this type, it is fenced off from strangers on the north side by a fence and forest, from the east - by natural obstacles in the form of a rock, from the south - by a fence. In the northern part there are houses where the guests live. Houses of two types: The first type - two- and three-storey houses with several rooms. Each room has its own separate entrance from the street, and on the other side there are balconies. The second type is expensive villas with several rooms. Immediately, in the northern part, there is a dining room where breakfast and dinner are served. From the balcony of the dining room there is an excellent view of the sea - it is no more than 50 meters away. Right there, in the northern part (in a straight line from the dining room to the northeast about 300 meters), near the barrier there is a shop. As with all FKK resorts, the dining room and shop are the only places where clothing is required. Moreover, if the clothes in the store can still be very conditional - it is enough to have a pareo or a towel around the hips (the chest can be uncovered - this is a rule for both the male and female part of the vacationers), then for breakfast and dinner you need to be “in full dress » - pants (skirt), shirt, shoes. The rest of the resort is occupied by tents and campers. All the conditions have been created here for their inhabitants to feel comfortable: wherever there are places for tents and campers, special cabinets with sockets and water taps stick out of the ground. Thus, you can connect and not feel like a savage tourist - there will be water (though only cold), and electricity. In addition, "sanitary and hygienic houses" are scattered throughout the territory. Each such house has toilets, washbasins, showers with cold and hot water, and even special sinks for washing dishes. . What is interesting: although these houses are, as expected, divided into “male” and “female” halves, few people observe these conventions. No, of course, couples don’t go into the toilet stall, but couples and especially families with small children usually go to the shower together - it’s more fun. In general, it's nice - if you're tired of the heat, you can jump into the shower, quickly wash off the sweat and dust, get out of the shower, just like that, without drying yourself with a towel and continue the walk. It's also nice to take a shower in the room in the evening, without getting dressed, step straight into the street or onto the balcony and slowly dry under the warm southern evening breeze. In general, here on the very first day you wean yourself from conventions in the form of clothes and towels - the climate is very warm and at the same time the sun is “not evil”, as in the same season in Turkey or Egypt. The beaches are mostly rocky and rocky, so you can't do without slippers. Along the entire coastline there are showers where you can wash off the sea salt (here, however, the water is only cold). On the territory there is also a swimming pool - http://r4. fra07t16. c. bigcache.googleapis.com/static.panoramio.com/photos/original/27311847.jpg? redirect_counter=1&st=ts&ir=1 Like this - http://v7. cache5. c. bigcache.googleapis.com/static.panoramio.com/photos/original/41745803.jpg? redirect_counter=1 - it looks from the sea. There is also a cafe bar by the pool. Although, in my opinion, swimming in the pool when there is a real sea nearby is like a perversion. Outside the resort, as I said, there are agricultural lands - fields, orchards and vineyards. Behind the southern edge of the resort, a bicycle path begins: a special walking and cycling route (about 20 km) towards Poreč : those who like walking on unpaved roads, on foot or by bike, will definitely like it. The path runs along mountain and forest paths, where there are wonderful ascents and descents, which, however, are quite surmountable on a good mountain bike, there are off-road sections, there are rocky paths, just unpaved areas. There is even a ford, which, however, is quite possible to overcome in low gears without getting off the saddle and without getting your feet wet. Almost the entire path lies in the shade of trees. I enjoyed riding this bike route. Unfortunately, I got a camera puncture there, but it's good that I took a spare with me. So if you go to Croatia with bikes, bring along a few spare cameras or a repair kit to fix them. In general, we rode bicycles heartily, both along Solaris itself and beyond, along country roads among fields and vineyards. I don’t know about the whole of Croatia, but the Istrian peninsula is a great place for bike rides – there are great places where you can only get there by bike. An air mattress also came in handy for us - having pumped it up on the shore, we made many hours of swims in the sea: in the working position it is huge, like a raft (2500x2200). It is a great pleasure to swim on it - you can swing on the waves for hours, and if it gets really hot, you can immediately splash with water or just slide off it into the sea, and then, after swimming enough, climb on the “raft” again. Immediately, on the mattress, our fins and diving masks and an underwater camera were usually lying, so that it could also be used as a “diving floating base”: slowly swimming on a mattress in the sea, looking at the bottom, and, having seen an interesting object at the bottom , dive to it, take a picture, and then "return to the base" And we discovered another pleasure associated with an inflatable mattress for ourselves: when the time is approaching 14 o'clock and it gets especially hot, you can get ashore, get air pillows and use the mattress like a bed. We often did this - we lay down right under the trees and slept in the shade for 2... 3 hours, covered with large beach towels. The beauty! In the morning and in the evening - meals in the dining room. The dining room, as I said, is the place where the Nude uniform is unacceptable - you must come to breakfast and dinner in full dress. Meals according to the "All inclusive" system - buffet. Of the particularly pleasant details, I would like to note that not only food is offered for dinner, but also water and fruit juices, as well as wine (red and white) and beer. Looking ahead, I will say that there is no such thing in Koversad - there in the evening all drinks are for a fee. In general, as they say, “rest is not work”, so the first week flew by like one day. It was time to leave Solaris and move to another resort - there was another week ahead in Koversad. In general, initially it was supposed to get to Koversada by bicycles: it is not so far there - no more than 35 km - the distance is quite surmountable on a bicycle in 1.5... 2 hours - it would have turned out to be another pleasant walk. Then it was planned to return to Solaris by taxi and overtake the car. But, since Svetlana is not very good at cycling, she had to abandon this idea. The bikes were partially dismantled (only the front wheels were removed), repackaged with foam, rewound with plastic wrap and tape, and stacked on the roof: this is where the arches on the roof came in handy. In general, as I said above, it would be possible to take bicycle mounts with you: they would fit perfectly inside the car, and then you would not have to dismantle them to move from one resort to another. Anyway. Having gathered in 40 minutes, we moved to Koversada, stopping briefly in the town of Porec along the way. CUT. Poreč is a small seaside town about 15 km south of Solaris. It is located on a gently sloping seashore. In appearance, this is an ordinary medieval town, very pretty. Before the Second World War, the entire Istrian peninsula belonged to Italy, so all the architecture here is appropriate. As in all cities of this region, in the center is the main city church with a high bell tower - this is the highest tower in the city. In general, all cities in this area are built and located in such a way that the main city tower can be seen from the tower of a neighboring city: in the Middle Ages, this provided emergency communication between cities - it was possible to give signs from the tower in various ways. There is something to see in the city - ancient churches, beautiful medieval houses, untouched by any restructuring and modernization, medieval streets cobbled with stone. There is also a small passenger port from which regular flights depart to Venice and other Italian cities. I must say that after all the city of Porec is not quite typical for this area because, unlike other cities located on high hills, it is located on a plain. For this reason, most of the streets here are wide and straight (as opposed to the curves and narrow streets of classical medieval cities). It makes no sense to tell a lot - it's better to look at the photos - they will tell everything better than words. You can also read about the city of Porec on sites like Wikipedia. We walked around the city for about three hours, and then continued our way - south towards the city of Vrsar and the next point of our trip - the world famous FKK resort Koversada. However, we had to visit Porec again later. KOVERSADA The resort of Koversada is located on the same Istrian peninsula, south of Poreč , between the town of Vrsar and the Lim Fjord. Limsky fjord (or channel) - a crack deep into the land in the earth's crust, filled with sea water. On one of its shores (northern) is the city of Vrsar and FKK-resort Koversada, on the other, southern shore - the city of Rovinj and FKK-resort Valalta. On the map here - http://maps. google. en/? ie=UTF8&ll=45.12296. 13.628197&spn=0.125483. 0.363579&t=h&z=12 Koversada is the largest FKK-resort in Europe: its area is about 120 hectares. You enter the resort from the north, from the city of Vrsar, through the main gate. The main road runs through the entire resort and is its eastern border: a fence stretches along the edge of the road, and then only fields. The main road stretches to the very southeastern outskirts - the shores of the Lim Fjord. The coast there is very high, steep, rocky and the bottom goes deep into the depth, so you can dive into the sea directly from the rocks without fear. This place will appeal to those who love scuba diving - the underwater relief of the coast is very bizarre - there are deep cracks and underwater grottoes in the rocks - all this goes deep down. The water in the depths is very clear and clean, but quite cold, and if you dive there, it is better to wear a wetsuit. There, on the farthest edge, on the green slopes of a high hill, there are the most expensive apartments - beautiful multi-room villas. The road to them winding serpentine climbs to the very top. The panorama from there is very beautiful - the blue sea among the bright green trees. But we examined all this later, first we headed to the northwestern part of the resort - to where our double room in a two-story house was waiting for us. In this part there are cottages - one- and two-story houses with separate entrances for each room. On the other side - balconies overlooking the sea or the park. Those who live on the first floors also have a second exit to the other side: there, instead of a balcony, there is a porch and a small veranda fenced with hedges - this way you can enter the room from two sides. So, at one end of the resort there are villas, at the other - cottages, and between them - places for tents and campers. The resort itself is huge - from end to end you can quite