CROATIA. DALMATIA. SELECTED SKETCHES - 6: MAKARSKA RIVIERA AND ISLANDS
Our bus to Makarska departed at 10.00 (ticket - 106 kunas + 7 kunas luggage), with an expected arrival time: ) at 13.22, just in time for check-in to the apartment from 14.00. The border with Bosnia and Herzegovina was also formally and quickly passed, as before. We had to spend 7 nights in Makarska, so I tried to choose the apartments even more carefully, so that the beach was nearby, and not very far to go to the center, and so that there were no difficult “climbs” (taking into account the terrain) ...We managed to decide on the best option not immediately, the “eyewitnesses” who recently returned from these places helped (already in Makarska, I was not too lazy, I went around and looked at all the other applicants, and I was convinced of the correctness of the choice) ...According to the route laid by Google, the selected apartments were located 13 minutes. walk from the bus station (time for a hike "light", with luggage will be longer: ).
The day before, having phoned the owners, I decided to clarify whether they could meet us and drive us to the apartment, they said they could. On the way, they even called us back several times, clarified where we were already going, they seem to know well the “punctuality” of their buses : )).
The views outside the bus window were good this time too, it seems to me that in Croatia there can be no bad views at all : ). Our bus arrived late this time by only 20 minutes : )). The hostess of the apartment with the interesting name Zvezdana met us by car. Her husband is also very colorful, in appearance something between Goiko Mitic (remember, the Yugoslav actor who played Chingachgook in several films popular in Soviet times) and the modern actor Euclid Kurdzidis : ); He doesn't know English, he says, we'll figure it out in Russian-Ukrainian anyway : ). So we communicated: with my wife - in English, with my husband - in Russian-Ukrainian-Croatian, there were no problems : ).
The husband drives a scooter, the wife drives an Opel Corsa - a very interesting couple ...
We quickly got to the apartment - it was our best accommodation of the entire trip, in fact a two-room apartment, a spacious bedroom and living room with a sofa, a round glass dining table and a kitchenette (with everything you need, there was even a coffee maker and a toaster, many others, I even I did not expect that the apartments are rented out with such a complete "equipment" : ). The location is very good - 5 minutes to the sea. , to Tommy supermarket - 2 min. , you can take a leisurely walk to the center in 10-15 minutes.
Having settled down, we first of all went to the sea - to swim, and then to get acquainted with the city - the "capital" of the Makarska Riviera.
Makarska is located in the vicinity of the Osejava and St. Peter peninsulas, at the foot of the Biokovo mountain range, because of it there is some kind of special microclimate, there is very little rain.
The old part of the city is a typical Dalmatian old town with narrow cobbled streets. In its very center, on Kasic-Miosic Square, there is the Church of St. Mark (XVIII century), it looks great against the background of the mountains! In the summer, the service takes place in the evening, it is already dark, when the heat subsides (although we did not feel it much). The Franciscan Monastery (XV century, has been rebuilt many times since then) is located nearby, part of its former wine cellars is reserved for the shell museum. On Cape St. Peter - a monument and the Church of St. . Peter. Not far from Makarska (in the direction of Split) is the Veprits sanctuary - the Grotto with the Virgin - a place of worship and pilgrimage.
Makarska is located in very picturesque places, on one side of Cape St.
Petra has marinas and a port, and on the other - a long strip of beaches, along which there is a promenade with many restaurants, cafes, bars ...The beaches of the Makarska Riviera are considered among the best in Croatia: small pebbles, pine trees rise no need for sun umbrellas. Of course, there are a lot of people in the season, but the beach strip is long, in the direction of Baska Voda there are many more secluded coves (up to completely secluded ones for nudists : ), so everyone can find a place under the sun for every taste : )). And the sea is wonderful everywhere, in principle, there is no great need for swimming slippers, we only used a couple of times during the entire trip (we didn’t buy it on purpose, we left it from the time of trips to Egypt). We have never seen sea urchins...
For a week in Makarska, we checked different beaches, both urban and small bays ...We never took sunbeds, umbrellas too, although they are on all organized beaches, but I don’t remember the price ...
Pleasure and other boats are moored in the port, a ferry crossing is organized to Sumartin (Brac Island), in the mornings (at 6–7 o’clock) fishermen moor and sell their catch directly from the boats (we also could not resist the temptation and bought king prawns at 100 kuna/kg - I have never eaten such fresh and tasty food anywhere : ).
Not far from the port, in the area of the peninsula of St. Peter, there is an information center where you can get a free map. There is also a monument to tourists nearby (with a mandatory attribute - a suitcase), that is, to you and me : )).
For ice cream lovers: the cheapest (5 kunas), oddly enough, was on the central square, in the port area - 6 kunas, on the embankment already 7 kunas.
In terms of communication, there was no language barrier, many people know English, and Croatian was understandable and close to us, however, there are some interesting interpretations (in our own way) of Croatian names, for example: Harmful Bank of Zagreb (well, a very harmful bank : ), Zagrebachka of the bank (that is, a bank that rakes in money for itself: ), Summer disgrace (as I understand it, it was a summer open film site : )) ...
In general, our stay in Makarska was held under the motto "rest, sea" ...
BRELA AND HEAD WATER
One of the days we planned to go to Brela and Baska Voda, we tried to alternate a beach holiday with a tour of the surroundings (so as not to fall into a resort hibernation at all: ).
A local bus runs from Makarska to Brela (14 km) and Baska Voda (10 km) in summer (goes directly to the center of the villages), but the morning schedule turned out to be not very convenient for us, again, we didn’t want to get up very early, passive rest is all ?? ? relaxes: )), and in 12ch. - it's too late.
It was decided to take a bus that goes along the highway towards Split, and then go down to Brela.
Out of habit, we wanted to take tickets in advance, but in Makarska they don’t sell tickets in advance for the buses of the local carrier Promet Makarska, they say there are no problems buying even 10 minutes in advance. before departure, so it was, however, we still arrived a little early ...We left by bus at 9.00 (ride min. 15, ticket - 19 kunas), there are 2 stops in the Brela area (stop on request), it is better to get off at Brela Soline (it's good that the driver asked which one I want to go to, I had to check from the notes: ), the second one is further and is called the Brela Kriсak type and from there you can climb the mountains.
From the stop on the highway, a rather steep descent begins in Brela, where you go down the stairs, where along the winding road, min. 10. Several times we were glad that we were descending and not ascending : ).
Climbing would be quite difficult, and if you also have luggage, then it’s generally problematic. This rise was one of the reasons I gave up my base at Brela.
In my opinion, it’s good to come to Brela either purely for a beach holiday, buying, for example, a package tour, when you are brought-taken away by a transfer to the airport and take organized excursions from the host; or by renting a car for freedom of movement. Traveling from Brela anywhere on my own by public transport for sightseeing, each time making "climbs" to the highway and "voting" to stop the bus, seems problematic to me : (.
Even in Split, we had some kind of entertainment: to study license plates of cars, there were mostly Italian, Austrian, sometimes German cars. In Brela, we are the first and only time we found a car with Ukrainian numbers!
In general, there were a lot of Russian speakers in Brela, it was even somehow unusual to hear Russian speech around. This is probably due to the large sales of package tours here.
The road leads us to the Soline hotel, after going a little to the left you can find a Konzum supermarket and an information center where you can get a free map.
If you walk to the right along the picturesque coast - Brela has a long promenade along the entire coastline, which is shaded by numerous pine trees - you can get to the famous Punta Rata beach (in my opinion, the new name now is Dugi Rat, at least on the map of Brela from the information center that's what it's called), having the "Blue Flag". The symbol of Brela is a rock with pine trees growing on it, located in the sea, not far from Punta Rata. The beach is pebbly, and near the shore it is almost sandy.
Surprisingly, vacationers come to the beach in Brela quite late, by 11–12 o'clock, almost in the very sun, and here the pine trees help out with their shade.
We really liked Brela, and the views, the sea, and the beaches.
After walking along Brela, swimming in the sea on its various beaches, we slowly headed towards Baska Voda (neighboring village-town). From Brela to Baska Voda there is a promenade path, there are benches, you can sit, rest and admire the sea; in fact, Brela ends and Baska Voda begins, you can walk at a walking pace in 35 minutes. Max.
After all, these villages are nearby, but somehow the difference between them is immediately felt: Brela is somehow more well-groomed or something, and Baska Voda is more democratic ...It's like Deauville and Trouville, they are also very close, but the difference is felt : ) …
We planned to return to Makarska by a local bus at 18.55 (the last one), but, having gone to the information center (located in the area of Ch.
pier, there is a local bus stop right there), took a map and a guidebook, clarified the schedule and we were told that we might not leave on the last local bus, because it was already full and might not even stop. We decided not to take risks, we had to shorten the program (abandon sea baths: ), walked along the embankment, the pier with the monument to St. Nicholas (the patron saint of Baska Voda), then - 2 churches of St. Nicholas and St. Lovro (1750), just wandered a bit down the streets...
We left by local bus at 16.55 (this is on schedule), and he came for 10 minutes. EARLIER and left, not expecting anyone, it turns out that this happens, keep this in mind : )). Local bus (ride min. 10, ticket from the driver - 15 kunas) is a minibus for max. 15 people , no wonder it can really be full and not stop : (.
However, the ascent to the highway in Baska Voda is no longer as steep as in Brela, if necessary, it is easy to get up and “catch” an intercity bus already there, they go more often and until late in the evening.
ISLANDS: HVAR AND BRAC
The specifics of the coast of Croatia, and the Makarska Riviera as well, is that a chain of islands, both large and smaller, stretches along the entire coast.
Along the coast of the Makarska Riviera there are two large islands: about. Brac (one of the largest islands in Croatia) and about. Hvar (the sunniest and longest island in Croatia - 68 km). And, of course, I wanted to visit them too, even if just a little look (at least with one eye : ), it is clear that for a more thorough "research" you need to come there at least for a couple of days ...
A good ferry service is organized with the islands in Croatia.
The website of the shipping company Jadrolinia, which operates ferry flights both within Croatia and internationally (the current schedule for the summer period will be closer to the season): http://www. jadrolinia. hr/default. aspx? lang=2
So, for example, on about. Brac can be reached by ferry from Split (to Supetar), from Makarska (to Sumartin). On about. Hvar - from Split (to Stari Grad), from Drvenik, located 30 km from Makarska - (to Suciurai), etc.
A bus from Split through Drvenik to the city of Hvar (which is on the island of Hvar) was also noticed at the Makarska bus station, probably it is loaded onto a ferry, and then it continues along the route, but I don’t know the details ...
But somehow I didn’t want to arrange complicated crossings on ferries with transfers then to buses (to move inside the islands), all the more it was unrealistic to cover both islands in 1 day; I already wanted just a boat trip to the islands : ). In more detail, these islands still need to be looked at separately ...
There are several ships moored in the port of Makarska, offering just such a plan for a trip for the whole day. There are walks on 2 islands: about. Hvar (Jelsa) and about. Brach (Bol); separately only on about. Brach (Bol); there was also an option on about. Korcula (the birthplace of Marco Polo), maybe some more. In addition, you can order an individual walk at will.
The route of the trip to 2 islands and the prices are the same for everyone (250 kn / person, lunch is also included here), the choice is only the choice of the boat. Walking in the evenings, we chose a boat, we could go on board and see what it was like inside. They immediately abandoned the big (probably a former fishing seiner) and noisy Makarski Jadran. As a result, we opted for "Viganj" - recently refurbished, not very big (respectively, there are fewer people : ), neat and smart : )), later they were satisfied with the choice.
Departure at 8.30, collection at 8.
00 (but you need to arrive early to get a better seat), return to Makarska by 18.30.
We sailed for 2 hours to the city of Jelsa (Hvar Island), arrived at 10.30. The road is not tiring, the views are stunning, both on Makarska and on the islands, we even saw dolphins in the sea. Along the way - unobtrusive music and closer to arrival a short story about the island.
Time in Yelsa - 1 hour.
O. Hvar has a rugged coastline with many capes, bays, attractive for recreation. Yelsa is a small picturesque town with a well-preserved island architecture of stone houses, small squares and narrow streets that lead to the port. The oldest part of Jelsa is a small Renaissance-Baroque square with a small octagonal church of St. John (15th century), the church of St. Mary (16th century) is also nearby, entrance fee is 5 kunas.
In Hvar, lavender is grown in large quantities - a symbol of the island and a popular souvenir among tourists.
At 11.30 we sail towards about.
Brach, sail for 1 hour, lunch is already waiting for us on the boat (it was possible to choose either fish or chicken + salad, drink and wine in advance), just the time on the way is spent for lunch with a pleasant contemplation of the surroundings and background listening to information about this island.
Special glory about. Brač was brought by quarries, where the white “Brač stone” is mined, which is used to line the White House in Washington, Diocletian’s Palace in Split, and other famous buildings around the world.
At 12.30 we berth in the city of Bol - one of the oldest and most popular resorts in Croatia, the departure time is scheduled for 16.30 from the same pier (there are many berths, boats too). It was decided to first go to the famous beach "Zlatni Rat" (Golden Cape), and then take a walk along Bol. This beach can be reached by water taxi (10 kunas), but just as the tourist train came to Zlatni Rat for the same 10 kunas, it was decided to take a ride on it.
We got a real Schumacher driver, the trailers sometimes almost doubled on turns, and even at a sufficiently high speed for this type of transport (and we were also sitting in the last trailer), there was a real threat of “being overboard” : )). But, quickly arrived: ))).
The Blue Flag beach is one of the most beautiful beaches in Croatia, and in the world too. This beach looks like sandy - although, in fact, it is covered with very small pebbles, and from above it resembles a starfish beam (or “horn”), stretched out into the sea for 300 meters, but due to wind, current and waves it often changes its form. The best view of it opens from above, but we did not have the opportunity to take such a picture, so I recommend looking at the link (I did not find a better photo):
http://img. tourister. ru/files/3/0/4/3/3/3/2/original.jpg
The beach is really wonderful with a perfect transparent emerald sea, it is believed that the water from different sides of the cape is of different temperatures (I really didn’t feel a big difference : ), it’s especially interesting to sit at the very tip of the cape, half submerged in water, sometimes it even seems that you are a little blown away over… At the base of Zlatni Rat there is a pine grove, which allows, if necessary, to hide from the sun, since there is no vegetation on the beach itself.
After swimming with pleasure from different sides of the Golden Cape and resting in the shade of a pine grove, we went to Bol by water taxi.
Our boat was in the roadstead, not far from the shore, freeing up a berth for newcomers ...We, having walked around the city, bought fruit and ice cream, settled down in the port on a bench in the shade overlooking the city ...
We sit and rest, we observe how latecomers rush at high speed to their boats, which are already ready to sail. Here we are, well done, came in advance : )). About 15 minutes before departure, we decided to see where our ship was. And, oh horror, we don’t see him: ((. We begin to look with our eyes, with difficulty, but we find it only thanks to the multi-colored flags on the masts, which are visible far away (the key word is “far”: (). He stands at the farthest from us at the pier, its outlines are completely hidden from us by other ships, if it weren’t for the flags and it wouldn’t be visible: (. And here we are already making a breakthrough and rushing at crazy speed now to our ship, because no one is counting and checking, did everyone come (as in a bus tour) will not : ((. In the process of the race, we still have time to think about what to do if we don’t have time ...
We managed, but got a dose of adrenaline ...
Brac sailed along its picturesque coast, saw many secluded coves with cozy beaches, which can only be reached by water…
By 18.30 we sail to Makarska, and on the embankment there is a holiday - something like Fish-fest (I don’t remember exactly what this event was called): there are cafe tables, right here they cook and sell a lot of goodies (and not only fish), later in the evening - a musical program (the stage was located right on one of the boats), well, it’s a lot of fun ...3 ships even specially sailed for this holiday, such as boat hotels, on which they live and travel at once (the dimensions, of course, are smaller than cruise liners).
So our trip to the amazingly pleasant country of Croatia ended, good things always end quickly ...
We arranged a farewell dinner for ourselves at the Ivo restaurant on Ante Starč ević a (according to online reviews - one of the best in Makarska), the service is fast and the cuisine is really good.
To sit at a table on the open veranda, you need to book it in advance. We didn't, but we arrived early and sat well too, practically on the veranda : ). The money was kept within the usual amount - 250 kunas / two. This time we tried one of the traditional Croatian dishes - “mixed meat” (different types of meat - pork, beef, chicken, grilled sausages), we also took squids in batter, salad, and homemade wine, of course.
On the day of departure, the owner of the apartment, Zvezdana, drove us to the bus station, the bus to Split was just leaving (50 kn / person + luggage) and we did not wait for the previously planned one, we decided to let there be more time in Split. And they did the right thing, because in the Brela area they got into a specific "tractor" and drove through it for more than half an hour. Just here we considered all the consequences of fires.
The Jadranska highway itself is quite winding, sometimes it runs along the edge of the "abyss", it's good that the driver is local and experienced, he knew all her "meanders": ). We have already arrived in Split with a delay of 40 minutes. (and the whole road from Makarska to Split should have taken 1.20 min max).
The bus to the airport departs from the intercity bus station 1-2 times / hour, but there are breaks of 1.5-2 hours, we are 1.30 hours. before departure, we bought tickets - 33 kuna / person, luggage is already in the price (there was 1 more bus as a backup, and then there was a break). Whether in connection with mass departures at the end of summer (25.08) or with the approaching break (at 1.30) in the bus schedule, but there were a lot of people on our bus: if there were tickets with the indicated places, they were already 30 minutes away. were busy before departure: (, we still managed to sit in our seats, and then the bus was loaded “to the eyeballs” (we observed this situation the only time during the trip). For 30-40 minutes.
we safely reached the airport (there may be traffic jams at the exit from Split and the trip time is longer).
Somehow I really didn’t want to leave Croatia, and I already began to understand those people who come to Croatia 10 times and want to return again and again, I myself really want to return ...
P. S. When writing this story about the trip, I tried not to describe emotions (although there were a lot of enthusiastic ones), but those practical moments and questions that interested me before the trip, may be useful to someone .. .
