Spain, May holidays: the first experience of independent trips!
The May holidays of 2009 turned out to be “empty” in terms of work. At first, I was going to go somewhere far away, but, honestly, tired of constant flights, I decided to opt for Europe (so that there was a valid Schengen in my passport).
I called an old friend of mine who owned a small travel agency. I understood that I was overpaying a little (2-3%), in return I received the absence of problems on all issues related to travel. True, those who are familiar with the experience of my previous trips will surely remember that everything was not without adventures, many of which were the result of improper performance of their duties by a representative of a travel company.
So, I asked Olya (that's the name of my friend) to pick me a budget tour to a warm country in Europe. She suggested Italy and Spain. Since I visited the first one a few years ago on a working visit, I settled on the second one. I decided to see the capital and relax on the beach. I was offered various options for tours and hotels. Having little experience in booking hotels and tickets on my own, I decided to check how much such a trip would cost if I booked everything myself. One evening I went to the Aeroflot website and entered the indicated hotels. You can’t describe my further state in one word - I was shocked - the cost of hotels was 1.5 times cheaper than Olga offered me. Skeptics, of course, will say that I am "PR" of the specified company, but this is not so. Over the years of work, I had to see many cities and countries, 80% of the trips were made by Aeroflot, and during this time a clear idea was established in my head that this is a partner with a name and reputation (you must agree, it’s strange to list 1000 “green” with his credit card to an incomprehensible site with an indistinct origin). So, to the skeptics, those who wish can check the prices for hotels in a travel company (per day), and then choose the same hotel on the website. I think further comments would be redundant.
I called Olga again and complained about the high prices. She made a surprised face and promised to look into everything. It didn't work out. She suggested several more hotels, but the price was 30% higher than what I found. Convinced of the correctness of the course of my thoughts, I decided to check who is so “cashing in” on a simple Soviet tourist: tour operators or my intermediary. I called a well-known travel company - a tour operator in Spain, named the dates and the desired hotel. The price given to me did not surprise me - it differed by 30% already indicated by me. I did not think further, I decided to book through the site.
Chose "Madrid + Tenerife" for 10 days. I didn't want to fly anymore. I flew to Madrid by Aeroflot, but from Madrid to the islands - by a flight of the Iberia airline (read about the pros and cons of flying with it in other reviews - Mexico, Argentina). I will only note that their website has an extremely inconvenient ticket booking system, and when printing an electronic ticket, the font constantly flies. In one evening, I received tickets for an international and domestic flight of various airlines, vouchers for hotels, and even through the site I took out medical insurance. Of course, they also offer visa processing, but I have not used this service yet, I promise the reader to “master” it by all means.
I went through the pre-flight procedures “normally”. The plane headed for Madrid exactly on schedule at 19.35. And after 5 hours, he sat down very softly and smoothly in Madrid. How many times I fly through Barajas, I'm used to using terminals No. 4 and No. 4S. I was surprised to find that Aeroflot is served in the oldest and most inconvenient terminal No. 1 (I’ll tell you about the difficulties at the end of the review).
20 minutes of taxiing, and we were served to the parking lot. The first difficulty I encountered was the poor level of training of the migration service employees. Very few of them speak English. Secondly, in the multi-Schengen of another country, the guys do not understand what is written. In my case, in the column, the maximum stay in the country at a time is 30 days, however, the "border guard" account for the maximum stay in all countries where I have been (or will be). Then, with incredible enthusiasm, he subtracted the dates from the stamps of the countries that I visited on my last visa. And, of course, he proudly said that my 30-day limit had been exhausted for me. I tried to explain to him in English what was happening, but for some reason he did not delve into it.
Ultimately, the passengers at the back began to “press” that the queue was not moving. He called someone, asked something, and they let me through. When I passed the migration, my suitcase was already waiting for me on the tape. On this trip, I decided to do everything on my own, so I didn’t order a “transfer”, but decided to use the services of a taxi, a queue of which stretched for a kilometer along the airport building. The driver quickly figured out where to go, and after 40 minutes we were in the center of Madrid, at the hotel I chose - Gran Versalles 4 *. For the trip, by the way, I paid 45 euros (for reference: travel companies charge for the meeting at the airport from 50 euros per person, in my car it was possible for four people to drive).
I chose the hotel based on online reviews. I didn't make a mistake. It is conveniently located, in the center, but at the same time not on the main highway, which makes it quiet and cozy. A 3-minute walk is the Alonso Martinez metro station, a major interchange hub in Madrira. The hotel rooms are spacious, there is everything you need, even such a "rarity" as an iron and ironing board. Lacks, perhaps, a kettle and a compliment from the hotel - cold drinking water. Although in Madrid this is not a problem - tap water is drinkable. Breakfast is good, varied. The cost is 11 euros per person (not included in the booking amount). The main guest at the hotel is an elderly European tourist who has never met our compatriots. In general, as in the whole city - for 3 days I met several Russian people. There are no "porters" in the hotel - you will have to run with your suitcases yourself. Although, the bulk of the bags produced now obediently follows you on wheels.
Attractions in Madrid can be bypassed in 2 days. This is more than enough. I will not list all the temples and architectural monuments, all this is described on the Internet and various reference books in sufficient quantities. Be sure to visit the Prado Museum - the third largest in Europe, after the Hermitage and the Louvre, the Buen Retiro Park. Do not go to the TV tower, tourists are not allowed there (very much in vain, they lose such income). At the station "Ventas" is located the central stadium for bullfighting. A very beautiful show. True, the queue at the cashier is occupied from 5 in the morning, and you will have to stand for at least 4 hours. You can buy tickets at a travel agency, but the price increases 3-5 times.
The metro is a great way to get around the city. The system built in Madrid seemed to me the most ergonomic of all the European ones that I managed to “test on myself”. There is a ticket office at each station, there are only 2 types of tickets - one-time, costing 1 euro, and for 10 trips (costing 7.4 euros). There is no “day ticket” familiar to many Europeans. You can take a combined ticket "metro + bus + airport". The price is doubled. A separate ticket is bought to the airport, costing 1 euro. It allows you to enter the terminal building. If you did not buy it in advance, you can do it at the exit - there are many terminals there. From the city center on the "pink" metro line you can get to "Barajas" in 25 minutes.
The cuisine in the city is the most diverse. I managed to find a couple of places that I advise you to visit. And since the author of this "creation" is not averse to drinking beer, I tried to choose establishments of a similar profile. The first is in the very center - Zahara (retsoran-beer house), which is on Gran Via 59. The second institution is located next to the hotel of my choice - Factory De La Cerverveza, which is on Calle de Genova. The latter features more than 20 varieties of beer from different parts of the world, there is my favorite knuckle and sausages. Do not take puree, it is synthetic.
After walking for 3 days in Madrir, on April 28 I went further - to Tenerife. After packing my suitcase, I took the subway to Barajas. The Spaniards, of course, were smart with the automatic check-in counters - it is very difficult to figure them out even for an experienced “pilot”. I had to ask for help at the counter of a / c "Iberia". I also booked a ticket through the site, however, the purchase process here is not distinguished by thoughtfulness. The most interesting thing is that they do not allow you to choose a seat in the cabin, but give it automatically, and, as a rule, in the tail and in an inconvenient place.
Having checked in my luggage, I settled comfortably in the McDuck in the waiting area. Even at the university, we were told that in Spain, in order to increase sales, McDonald's allowed beer to be sold in its restaurants. You know it really is. By the way, sandwiches went "with a bang" with beer to boot;
On landing, I again drew attention to the line of pensioners. “Where am I going? ” - I thought then. Already at the entrance to the plane, I looked into the cockpit, what was my surprise when in the left seat (commander's) I saw a young long-haired girl of about 30, who was reading a thick "talmud" - instructions for "Airbus". At first I did not believe it, and asked the flight attendant. My worst fears came true - the ship's commander was a girl. She, according to the stewardess, is the pride of the airline, and is very professional. I don’t know, I don’t know, but it shook us fairly in the clear sky. Another interesting fact is that there are no meals and drinks on domestic flights of the Iberia airline, all for an additional fee.
In Tenerife, I flew to Los Rodeos Airport or Norte Airport (North). It is notable for the fact that here, back in 1977, the largest plane crash in the world occurred. On that day, there was one minus for me - I had to drive about 70 km to my hotel, and the terrible numbers of the taxi meter were spinning in my head.
I was not mistaken, the trip cost 90 euros. At travel companies it costs 40 euros per person.
For my vacation, I chose a very high-level hotel, which is often offered to Russian tourists - Jardines Di Nivaria 5. At the beginning of this story, I already wrote about the price offered by the tour operator and the price at which I bought it. The hotel is worth the money, all the reviews posted about it on the net are objective. Firstly, it really stands on the first line by the water, which is not typical for Tenerife. Secondly, the building system is designed so that 70% of the rooms have a direct or side view of the ocean. The service is very high, towels and linen are changed 2 times a day - at the request of the client, 1-2 times a day, a wide range of compliments - fruits, wine, water, every evening the maid brings sweets, etc. There are Russian-speaking staff - administrator Flora and concierge Pablo. The latter, by the way, offers excursions around the island, but, believe my experience, there is no point in overpaying, I traveled every corner in 3 days by car. Breakfast is very good, impossibly varied: more than 20 salads, hot dishes, a few fresh juices, desserts, and even champagne. The beer, however, is not great. Of all the proposed drinks, only Erdinger is drunk at 5 euros per bottle. They mastered only the main restaurant, although there are three more restaurants on the territory. The average cost of a dinner with alcohol is 70 euros for two.
The hotel has its own SPA-center, fitness room, tennis court, bike rental, etc. Everything is free!! ! There are 3 pools - with adapted sea water (large), with fresh, but ice water, and a small one - operating on the principle of "jacuzzi". The only drawback that is not typical for a hotel of this level is beach towels, or rather the system for issuing them.
When registering, you are given a piece of paper measuring 7x10 cm, where your address, initials and room number are indicated. You exchange a piece of paper in a special booth for the number of towels indicated in it. In the evening you hand over the towels, you get the ticket back. For the loss of paper, a fine of 60 euros is charged. For the loss of towels, they do not give a piece of paper and still charge a fine. Another obvious drawback of the hotel is a weak entertainment program - in the evening everyone gathers “in a circle” by the pool and listens to local folklore while drinking cocktails. Everything starts at about 21.30 and stops strictly at 23.00. The audience, as you probably guessed, is over 50 at least.
Now about the environment. The embankment is full of establishments that entice you in any way. Almost everywhere there is a Russian-language menu, and the administrator can “link” a couple of words in your native vocabulary. Dinner per person with alcohol will cost 25-30 euros. Discos exist on the coast, but I have not found any. The public amuse themselves in pubs full of young Englishmen. All, as one, are similar to the soloist of "Offspring" in the song "Giv it to me, baby! " ; They behave no better, after 2 mugs of beer all this “party” takes at least into space. An unpleasant sight.
Almost a week of “lying” on the beach bored me on the 4th day. Moreover, the weather on the island in April-May is very strange - sunny in the morning, for example, in the afternoon, too, and in half an hour everything can change exactly the opposite: gray skies and cold wind from the ocean. The latter was cold and far from clean. The only thing that pleased me was the presence of an unrealistic number of girls and women sunbathing "topless". Although, frankly speaking, I would recommend some people to wear a bathing suit… . The sand on the beach is black, there are sun loungers for rent for 3 euros. But... , I found on the island both clean sand and a crystal ocean. But more on that below So, I decided to "have some fun" and rent a car for 3 days. And since the flight to Madrid was at night, I decided that in order not to spend money on a taxi, I could return the “wheelbarrow” at the airport.
In my field of vision were 2 companies that rented cars. The first one is located on the first floor of the hotel I have chosen. Its main advantages are proximity to me as a consumer, and a wide selection of cars. You can even order a Porsche Cayenne Turbo or Audi Q7, as well as a limousine or convertible Mercedes. Minus - prices that are 2-3 times higher than in similar companies on the embankment, lack of full insurance (in cases of auto damage, you will be charged from 7 to 10% of its size). Another disadvantage is a large deposit, the equivalent of 3.000 euros is blocked on your card. Since my trip was "anti-crisis", I decided to look for more...
And ours. In 2 lanes from the hotel there is an office of the Orcar company, whose posters are full of posters all over the embankment. I was offered an A-class car at a price of 50 euros for 3 days with full insurance. For a week, such a machine will cost the tenant 110 euros. And no deposit, no defective sheet. At the end of the term, you can return the car directly at the airport. Moreover, if the office at the airport is closed (for example, at night when I flew out), park the car in the parking lot for rented cars, go into the terminal building, look for the company's office and throw the car key into a special window in the door. And that's it. True, if you do not fill the tank with fuel, they reserve the right to file a complaint against you through the Russian consulate, and they write this down on paper.
For 3 days I drove 636 km on my Seat Ibiza, and filled in fuel for 35 euros. Total - 90 euros. Exactly how much I gave to the taxi driver for the road from the airport to the hotel. The benefit is obvious. By the way, about cars. For fans of cool "wheelbarrows" with a thick "patty" in your pocket, I recommend taking a small-sized car after all. the roads on the island, especially in the passes, are very narrow, which makes driving extremely stressful. On my "baby" I did it without difficulty, and on the autobahn I accelerated to 180 km / h. Never met any policemen. If you are still “caught”, feel free to take a receipt, name a non-existent address in Russia and move on. Upon departure from the country, you can throw it away. The maximum that they will do is write a request to the embassy, they will answer that such a person does not live, and the fine will be canceled on this.
Now about what you can see on your own (by car) on the island. When renting a "car" you will be given a detailed map of the island, with which you can easily drive to any corner of Tenerife. One minus - the cities are incomprehensibly spaced on the map, especially when there are several of them in a small space. True, if you make a mistake a couple of times, then you will already determine by eye and by the signs where to go.
Undoubtedly, the main attraction is the El Tiede National Park and volcano, which is located at an altitude of about 3800 meters above sea level. Stunning landscapes open up from its top. The lift works from 9 am to 4 pm, on the first day I was late, I had to go on the second. It brings tourists to a height of 3500 meters, where the observation deck is located. Further - on foot. Optionally, of course. At the beginning of the trail sits a boy who asks for a signature on paper. Its essence is to inform you about the dangers of ascent and descent (people ascend and descend at an angle of 30-40 degrees without insurance and equipment). You will also be marked at the exit. Accordingly, if anyone is missing, rescuers will look for them. I did not dare to master the summit, especially since the round-trip trip will take 1.5-2 hours.
Nearby is a desert and a small canyon, you will not miss this place. So many construction vehicles. I went into the very depths until I ran into 2 guards. Behind them, I saw sculptures that were being assembled by… builders. Yes, not archaeologists, but builders (after all, I took a couple of photos). It turns out that the enterprising Spaniards will announce after some time that they have found an ancient city (the statue is similar to the Mayan culture, which is represented in Teoteokan (Mexico City)). And the sights are “fake”
On the western part of the island there is the city of Buena Vista, from which there is a road to Cape Faro De Teno. It is here that the cleanest ocean in Tenerife (although not a bit warmer than my hotel). There are many tourists coming here for a picnic. The photographs taken here are some of the most beautiful and presentable in the entire history of my communication with the camera.
On the last day before departure, I was “drifted” to the eastern part of the island, to the capital of Santa Cruz de Tenerife (be sure to take a ride on the local tram, just super) and a little further, to the town of San Andres. There is no pathos here, as in "Los Americas" (the place where the hotel of my choice is located) or in "Los Gigantos" (just down the coast). There are many young people here, usually Italian and Spanish. And most importantly, there is golden sand and a very wide beach. Beware of petty thieves, which are plentiful here. Rest in the neighboring town, from which the beach is 10-15 minutes on foot, costs 2-3 times cheaper than in popular tourist areas. I especially recommend to young readers to “hang out” here, and there are clearly more girls in these parts than young people.
My flight was at 3am on Tuesday May 5th from South Airport (the locals call it Tenerife Sur). It is 3-4 times more than Los Rodeos. And I paid for the hotel until 12.00 Monday. So, waiting in the room until 18.00 (late check-out) is free of charge, and if until 24.00 - then 30 euros per room. That night I tried to sleep, but for some reason I couldn't. As a result, he turned the steering wheel “sleepy”.
After handing over the car, I went to the terminal. I checked in and checked in my luggage. There was only one flight, so nothing worked at the airport. At 3 o'clock in the morning our "Airbus" headed for Madrid. The flight went quickly, because I slept for 2.5 hours. The plane taxied to terminal 4, where they gave us our luggage. Taking a metro ticket for 1 euro, I went to terminal 1. This was perhaps the biggest mistake. The old terminal 1 served a lot of flights. The flight to Moscow was supposed to take place at 12.30, while at 7 am the flight was already active on the check-in board. With difficulty finding the cherished numbers in the terminal building, I saw empty check-in counters. Nearby are the counters of Aeroflot's SkyTeam partner, AirEuropa. I was told that employees do not come to Moscow before 10.30. It was necessary to wait. There is no waiting room in the terminal before check-in, there is not a single chair to sit on. On the lower tier, there is still one 4-seater bench, but two of the four seats are occupied by a “monument to the traveler”, which imposingly looks at passing passengers. Sleepy, angry and not sleeping for 2 days - these were the main epithets describing my condition at that moment. Fortunately, in terminal 2 there are still seats for waiting, where I "tormented" all 3.5 hours of waiting.
At 10.30 in the morning, the Aeroflot desk started working. Having checked in my luggage and received a boarding pass, I went to the duty-free zone. How I was killed by the news I saw on the scoreboard - the flight was delayed until 15.00. And I have another 4.5 hours of wandering around the airport. I found a quiet corner and lay down to sleep on the benches. Of course, I first looked into the business lounge and tried to get in for money, but the strict receptionists unequivocally said: “only for business class passangers. ” Nonsense, considering that in terminal 4 this service costs 22 euros.
After another 3 hours of sleep, I decided to have lunch. On the territory of the terminal there were only 2 two eateries - fast food, which for some reason positioned themselves as restaurants. I did not go to the first one because of the long queue at the checkout (there was a queue of 50-55 people at one checkout). The second one made me happy. A leopard was painted all over the wall of this establishment and the inscription “100% Food 100% Fast 100% Natural” flaunted. (I will translate for those who speak only Russian - “100% food, 100% fast, 100% natural”). I would argue about “fast” - I stood at the checkout for 10 minutes, and then I could hardly find a place to sit down. The menu includes hard and not fresh jerky sandwiches, tuna salads, yoghurts and beer. For 16 euros, they gave me juice and a sandwich, which not only was not "straight", it was not even "food". I really wanted to shove this sandwich, which looks like a long and thick hot dog with a dried sausage inside, to the owners of this restaurant in that very place, called culturally the “fifth point”. I restrained myself. And I decided not to eat this "food".
And at 14.30 announced the long-awaited landing. We must pay tribute to the Aeroflot team that flew that day on the Madrid-Moscow flight - they were at their best. Impeccable service, courtesy and responsiveness, excellent knowledge of English and well-delivered speech - all this only added pluses to that crew. A maximum of 30 people flew on the plane, so the passengers dispersed around the cabin. After dinner, having eaten 2 portions, I lay down in the 4th row of seats, they kindly brought me a large pillow and a blanket, and I slept smartly on the flight. Before landing, I found out that while I was having dreams, a man and a girl started a fight, and we almost sat down in Austria with an overnight stay. True, other passengers, tired of waiting in Madrid and having heard about the prospects for an emergency landing, pacified them, and at 22.00 Moscow time we boarded at Sheremetyevo-2. Another surprise of that evening was the absence of queues at passport control, which constantly annoyed me during international travel through this airport.
Rest was a success. With new thoughts and ideas, I began to perform my official duties. I will definitely return to Spain - this is a country with an interesting culture, helpful people and chic resorts. And I will definitely write about my new adventures...