How Foma arranged the South of Russia (continued)

22 august 2021 Travel time: with 21 July 2021 on 23 July 2021
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Thomas lived. He lived far away, in the county of Devonshire from distant England. And there was called Thomas Kobley. But, by the will of fate, he ended up in Russia. Only here they began to call him Foma Aleksandrovich Koble.

From Odessa to Koblevo a little more than fifty kilometers. It seems like nothing. However, leaving the southern capital is very difficult. There is a feeling that all the inhabitants of the city and its guests were seized by an irresistible passion for mass movement. It doesn't matter where. The main thing is the process itself. Therefore, the very road between these settlements rushes by in an instant.


The water surface of the Tiligulsky estuary separates the Odessa and Nikolaev regions. On the Nikolaevsky coast of the estuary, the Koblevo resort is located. Although in the beginning there was a village of Postovoye. It was founded during the Russian-Turkish war by the Russian prince Grigory Volkonsky. The church was erected in 1788. Just in time for the feast of the Holy Trinity. And in honor of this event, the settlement was renamed Troitskoye.

But, four years later, for the successful completion of the Turkish campaign and excellent service, Catherine II donates 12 acres of land on the left bank of the Tiligul estuary to Foma Koble. And after some time the village was renamed Koblevka. Then it got a little better. And today they are simply called Koblevo.

Everything would be fine, but historians have forgotten that Turkic tribes have long lived here. During the Ottoman Empire, these lands belonged to the Ochakov Tatars. And if you look at the same map by Ricci Zanoni of 1767, then on the site of the present Koblevo, the settlement of Olu-Kulle is found. What does high tower mean?

Why is that? In those days, the Tiligul Estuary was a very convenient bay for ships. And to facilitate navigation, beacons were placed at the entrance. Tall buildings with fire at the top. So it is still unknown where the current resort of Koblevo got its name from.

Immediately behind the estuary, the only road to the resort branches off from the Odessa-Nikolaev highway. After a couple of kilometers, guests are met by a traffic police post and a bus station. And opposite is the famous water park.

By the way, those who wish to make their lives easier on the same site https://inbus. ua can order a direct flight to Koblevo. Or buy tickets with a transfer in Odessa or Nikolaev. Very comfortable and no problems while relaxing.

The resort area is conditionally divided into two parts. Moldavian is noisier. There are discos and other entertainment venues. Ukrainian is more sedate and thorough. Mostly parents with children come here. Although, lately everything has been mixed up in this kingdom.

Boarding house Lidia is located in the very center of the Moldavian zone. The three-storey Soviet-era building is in the process of modernization. Which is interrupted only for the holiday season. The best rooms are on the first floor, the economy option is on the third.


There are two beds in the room. Good mattress, clean linen in nice colors. Between them are nightstands. At the feet of the refrigerator and hanger. On the ceiling there is a combined chandelier with a fan. And, that's all. . . Blocks of sanitary rooms and showers at the end of the corridor near the stairs. Clean, neat and ascetic. For those who only spend the night is an ideal option.

That's just a little embarrassing veranda stretching along the rooms. That is, anyone can take an interest in the life of a neighbor and not only. Save the situation heavy blackout curtains. But, then the room turns into a kind of voluntary confinement cell. Even though it's only for the night. . .

However, an inner voice tells you that it’s not bad to refresh yourself. Is there anything easier? No matter how. The hungry will have to go through a little adventure. Which begins literally outside the gates of the boarding house. Countless retail outlets and catering establishments. And even more people are constantly in a state of chaotic movement. Somehow it all resembles the famous oriental bazaars. In principle, you can buy everything or almost everything here. If you set a specific goal.

It's good that there is a reliable guide. Which very quickly delivers to the desired object. Mini water park. There is a large swimming pool in the center of the establishment. Around it are numerous recreation areas. In the sense of tables for eating and drinking. Food for every taste. And quite affordable. Products are fresh. After all, almost all of them are from this region.

But going back is a problem. Firstly, after a hearty dinner, it is simply very difficult to move around. And secondly, it is very difficult to find the way at dusk. But, the internal autopilot confidently takes you to the right place. Now sleep.

Oddly enough, the morning starts early enough. And no one seemed to care. And a wonderful dream. But, that same inner voice requires movement. So, after the mandatory procedures, we are on our way. In the sense of visiting local attractions.

The streets are deserted. Ten minutes to the sea with a lazy step. A local embankment stretches between the beaches and buildings. That is, a tiled path is wide enough for a promenade. In the direction of the Odessa region brand new brand new. With palm trees and pretty lanterns in the form of ship masts.


Beach areas for every taste. Including there is a free public. At the very end, the path runs into a canal that connects the Tiligul Canal with the sea. Almost rests. Because there are thirty meters of pure sand between them. And then the gateway. And a footbridge connecting the two areas.

The question arises - why not extend the track directly to this object. After all, for tourists, this is a chic place for photos. Although, on the embankment itself, vacationers with cameras were taken care of. Traditional three-dimensional inscriptions “I love Koblevo” and simply “I love”. Somehow in English. Although the British lords are nowhere to be seen. And there is also an amazing animal that looks like an elephant. It was found right in the sea at low tide. Now it is a local attraction.

“Mama Beach” is not only a beach, but also a wonderful restaurant under the same original name. The latter is located on the other side of the embankment. That is five meters away. Twenty meters to the sea. It is very convenient to splash in the sea and immediately drink a cup of coffee. Or get a big meal. As they say, - all without departing from the cash register. By the way, the coffee here is pretty good.

Being near the sea and not trying seafood is nonsense. Relatively recently, a specialized institution “Fish Tavern” appeared in Koblevo. It is located on the other side of the resort area towards Ochakov. It's just that getting to it is very difficult. The broken asphalt road is soon replaced by an ordinary dirt road. Which, in addition, winds like a scalded hare running away from the chase. But, the effort is worth it.

“Fish tavern” is a public catering created by the fishermen themselves. Therefore, the quality of the products is guaranteed. Early in the morning they caught it and immediately went to the kitchen. All piping hot. By the way, the tools of production themselves are right there on the shore. Reliably guarded by shaggy watchdogs.

Several motor boats and a traditional launch. Another one, with the signature inscription “Fish Tavern”, has been turned into an object of worship for tourists. There is another highlight in the tavern itself. An old bronze ship's bell flaunts right on the bar counter. Retrieved from a sunken British ship.


After a delicious breakfast, you can go for a short walk. The wild coast is soon replaced by a well-equipped embankment. Numerous recreation centers and boarding houses, as a rule, changed owners. And judging by the appearance, this circumstance clearly benefited.

For example, the recreation center Ivushka seemed to have left the brochure of some Turkish resort. The whole complex is located on a steep slope. And even on one of the terraces fit the pool. The swimming pool overlooking the sea is amazing! And a little further for lovers of wild romance, free car camping. So there is a choice for every taste and budget.

To be in Koblevo and not visit the famous winery is nonsense. It is located on the other side of the road from the village. And it is famous primarily for its vineyards. By the way, the village is called Vinogradovo. The local climate and soils are said to be very similar to the legendary Beaujolais region in France. No wonder they stand on the same 46th parallel.

And it all started with the same Thomas Koble. Having received 12 acres as a gift from the empress on the banks of the Tiligul estuary, the count decided to settle in these places, for which he moved his family and erected a castle. On the high bank, he built a veranda for relaxation.

But, apparently, the wild expanses of the steppe were not very pleasing to the eye of the young owner. And he invited experts from Italy and France to give some practical advice. With their submission, the surrounding lands were planted with vineyards. And for beauty, outlandish earthen apples were brought. Which later became known as tomatoes or tomatoes. And turned into a delight to the stomach.

The sweet berry was not very popular at first. And only during the Soviet Union has it turned into a powerful technological culture. In 1972, a regional farm was established to grow grapes. Ten years later, wine production was opened.

Today, the Koblevo winery is one of the largest enterprises in the industry. Two and a half thousand vineyards. And there is also a partnership farm on the banks of the Southern Bug. Dozens of grape varieties that are periodically updated. And new ones that are more resistant to climate change and disease.


Speaking of the latter. There are a lot of roses in the area. And they are not just for beauty. It turns out that the physiology of roses and grapes is very similar. Only flowers are much more sensitive to diseases. And they get sick much earlier than grapes. So, if the roses are bad, you need to save the grapes. Here is such a biological indicator of health.

Tatyana Matveeva, chief technologist, says that even the picking time affects the quality of the berries. For the best wines, grapes are harvested from three in the morning until morning, when the air temperature does not exceed 17 degrees. Those collected during the day have to be additionally cooled.

And one of the main technological secrets is the maximum reduction in the contact of raw materials with oxygen. For this, nitrogen is used. It is produced here in a specialized workshop. This inert gas is used from the moment the grapes enter the press until the process of bottling and capping the finished wine.

You can appreciate the quality in the tasting room. It is interesting that not only specialists, but other employees of the enterprise try their products during specialized tastings. So to speak, the opinion of the people. And it also counts. Not to mention tourists. Factory tours are very popular with holidaymakers.

However, after such a libation, it is not bad to refresh yourself. Thankfully you don't have to travel far. Only in the neighboring village of Ukrainka. It's just that getting to it is very difficult. It seems that an asphalt road leads to this settlement. But for some reason, everyone prefers to go straight on the local dirt roads.

The result is a rally-style adventure over very rough terrain. At the same time, there are a lot of people who want to make a cross, judging by the cars they met along the way. Why are so many people willing to go through such a test? The answer lies around the next corner.

"Oysters of Scythia" - this is the name of the institution on the banks of the Tiligul estuary. Rather, a whole complex of recreation. And the products presented in it are the end point of the production of an oyster farm. By the way, considered the first in the country.


The most common food oyster in the world, Crassostrea Gigas, is grown here, which is native to the Pacific Ocean. Ukrainian oyster, according to numerous tasters, is distinguished by tender “meat” and a subtle nutty aftertaste.

A special person is responsible for the preparation of these delicacies. With the help of a special knife, he opens the shells, cuts out something there and puts the ready-to-eat product on a plastic plate. The standard norm is five pieces.

The action takes place in the central, so to speak, pavilion. Behind the bar, they order seafood and life-giving moisture to it. The bottle proudly says “Oyster”. Although in fact this product has nothing to do with the sea. Just a good white wine.

Meals are prepared in the kitchen, which is hidden behind the order counter. The waiter will deliver the selected to the place of consumption. And there's a lot of choice here. The most luxurious - at the tables under a huge snow-white tent. Huge cutouts allow you to admire the endless surface of the estuary. But, at the same time, they do not save from hurricane winds. Disposable tableware blows away at the moment. Even an attempt to eat the most delicious fish soup turns into a unique attraction.

At this moment, it is perfectly realized where the name of this area came from. Translated from Turkic, “Deli Gol” means Wild Lake. Also Mad or Crazed. The length of this miracle of nature is 80 kilometers, and the width reaches three and a half. It is not surprising that with such winds, the Tiligul Estuary has become a favorite area for kite and windsurfers.

In good weather, you can perfectly swim here, ride a catamaran, or smear yourself with smelly mud from the heart. Everyone chooses according to their taste.

In the meantime, take a farewell shot against the backdrop of a roaring little sea. And run to the bus. Until it blows. The city of shipbuilders Nikolaev awaits ahead.

Ending to be. . .

Translated automatically from Russian. View original
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